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  1. #1
    Neg reppers r my biatches
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    loosening crank bolts...

    not a huge deal, since there are still cancers without cures, but I was curious if others have problems with loosening crank bolts.

    I have ENO cranks with pretty generic capless type of crank bolts that loosening every so slightly after short rides and more of course over longer rides. I tighten them down a bit before every ride. I loctited them yet still was able to tighten them after they loosened a bit from a ride.

    might another type of crank bolt be better? are the campagnolo crank bolts longer such that they may hold better? etc..

    what has worked for anybody who may have had to deal with this scenario

  2. #2
    Sofa King We Todd Did
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    I recall that xrmattaz really recommended Loctite!

    [SIZE=1](just kidding)[/SIZE]

  3. #3
    Neg reppers r my biatches
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    yes sir....I did use loctite...i just used the word in the past tense (ie, "loctited")....hey, I ain't no English major or is there an inside joke regarding xrmattaz that i am missing as it relates to loctite?
    Last edited by FoShizzle; 07-21-2005 at 03:51 PM.

  4. #4
    Neg reppers r my biatches
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    yes sir....I did use loctite...i just used the word in the past tense (ie, "loctited")....hey, I ain't no English major or is there an inside joke regarding xrmattaz that i am missing as it relates to loctite?
    ah....now I see, the old loctite on the lockring.

    i tried some loctite on the crank bolt threads hoping that would help and while it may have helped, it still loosens....is this just part of the game with square taper/ENO?

  5. #5
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    Torque it

    Is a torque wrench involve in this?

  6. #6
    jrm
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    What i found out..

    if the crankarm drive and BB drive interface is messed up then all the pressure to keep the crankarm on the BB is on the bolt. And that is why the crankarm wont stay on. For me i wrecked the crankarm and not the BB. But i contacted the manufacturer and got a killer deal on some new crankarms.

  7. #7
    Steamroller
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    Grease? Torque?

    Is the spindle greased? That will cause square taper cranks to go on a little further each time you torque them and may help them loosen faster too.

    No grease on the spindles or in the arms, torque it to proper spec. Grease is OK on the bolt threads, but you may try some locktite instead.
    Last edited by Mattman; 07-21-2005 at 11:08 PM.
    [SIZE=2]Two Wheeled and Too Big[/SIZE]

  8. #8
    Waiting to exhale.
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    I knew the whole square taper thing was a little fishy. keep it simple my foot!
    Quite possibly the slowest single speeder on earth.
    Now skating 'cause its cheaper.

  9. #9
    One gear to rule them all
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    I agree with jrm, if the bolt is coming loose, there is not a problem with the bolt, there is a problem with the interface. The cranks are probably toast
    This has been my experience, over the last twenty plus years wrenching

    Quote Originally Posted by jrm
    if the crankarm drive and BB drive interface is messed up then all the pressure to keep the crankarm on the BB is on the bolt. And that is why the crankarm wont stay on. For me i wrecked the crankarm and not the BB. But i contacted the manufacturer and got a killer deal on some new crankarms.
    Todd............. If you can't be kind, at least have the decency to be vague

  10. #10
    "Mr. Britannica"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattman
    Is the spindle greased? That will cause square taper cranks to go on a little further each time you torque them and may help them loosen faster too.

    No grease on the spindles or in the arms, torque it to proper spec. Grease is OK on the bolt threads, but you may try some locktite instead.

    and blue not red

  11. #11
    King Pin
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    Wink Hmmmmm....

    SpinWheeeelzz just emailed me, said he used JB Weld.

    (kidding)

    I've four sets of ENO cranks, all with them hex head bolts, and have not had a single one come loose yet. Hmmmm....definitely NO lube on the spindle. A dab of grease (no Lokckkctite) on the bolts and I just use a four inch Allen wrench.

    I cannot imagine a spindle bolt coming loose......something is certainly amiss. You probably should indeed find the proper torque settings and drag out said wrench.

  12. #12
    Neg reppers r my biatches
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    the bb and cranks are virtually brand new so i sure hope that is not the case....maybe i should get my 12 year old neighbor to torque it better for me

  13. #13
    Neg reppers r my biatches
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    i am probably exaggerating....it is not as if it is coming loose but rather after a ride or two i can turn the bolt about 1/4 to 1/2 turn which is not much at all of course but still thought I would ask.The bottom bracket is a steel Phil Wood for what it is worth.

  14. #14
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    Loctite is Hella Good

    I also have the Eno Cranks and had this problem for awhile. How I fixed it was to Clean the BB axle with denatured alcohol so that there was no types of oily residue on it. Then i did the same thing with the tapered part of the crank arms. Then i used some Loctite 609 on the BB axle and crank arms. 609 is made for bonding bearings to axles and holding PRESS FIT assemblies together. I put the crank together normally using Loctite on the crank bolts so they don't come loose. Has been working great. The Loctite holds 3000psi in sheer so it gives it just what the crank needs to hold it in place. I was worried alittle bit about being able to get the crank off if I have to but with the nature of square taper as you pull the crank of the diameter gets smaller and the crank should come right off. However that is all theory to this point because i have not tried to get my crank arms off yet. I hope this works for you.
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  15. #15
    King Pin
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    Wink Ahhhh.....

    I just went out and tightened each of mine another 1/4 to 1/2 turn, even the ENO on the 1X1, which I just installed yesterday and haven't ridden yet!

    I don't think anything is amiss anymore....



    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    i am probably exaggerating....it is not as if it is coming loose but rather after a ride or two i can turn the bolt about 1/4 to 1/2 turn which is not much at all of course but still thought I would ask.The bottom bracket is a steel Phil Wood for what it is worth.

  16. #16
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    happened on 3 of my bikes and each time it was an early warning the the BB bearings were beginning to fail...first the crank bolts began to loosen...eventually it was impossible to keep them tight, then you began to feel a wobble in the crank that got worse...you could even hear the rattle

  17. #17
    "Mr. Britannica"
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    Quote Originally Posted by lftripp33
    I also have the Eno Cranks and had this problem for awhile. How I fixed it was to Clean the BB axle with denatured alcohol so that there was no types of oily residue on it. Then i did the same thing with the tapered part of the crank arms. Then i used some Loctite 609 on the BB axle and crank arms. 609 is made for bonding bearings to axles and holding PRESS FIT assemblies together. I put the crank together normally using Loctite on the crank bolts so they don't come loose. Has been working great. The Loctite holds 3000psi in sheer so it gives it just what the crank needs to hold it in place. I was worried alittle bit about being able to get the crank off if I have to but with the nature of square taper as you pull the crank of the diameter gets smaller and the crank should come right off. However that is all theory to this point because i have not tried to get my crank arms off yet. I hope this works for you.

    this should not be necessary.

  18. #18
    Whatever! Just crash it!
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    It happened to me twice when my ENO cranks were new. I made sure to clean the BB spindle with degreaser, then clean the inside of the crank interface with degreaser. Let them dry thoroughly, then install them. Make sure you've got some grease on the crank bolt threads. I used a torque wrench -- though I don't remember the torque specs off the top of my head.

    I haven't had a problem since.

    Peter
    If a man talks dirty to a woman, it's sexual harassment. If a woman talks dirty to a man, it's $3.95 per minute.

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  19. #19
    Neg reppers r my biatches
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    I am on the phone with WI right now to get the correct torque setting.

    Just talked to the owner........seems as if (like most of the time cause I am a dumb blond) I am just being paranoid. I will clean off the spindle and inside of cranks and torque appropriately but will not (and dont need to) worry about turning the bolt the pidly 1/8 turn or less after every other ride or so.

    cheers

  20. #20
    Whatever! Just crash it!
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    I am on the phone with WI right now to get the correct torque setting.

    Just talked to the owner........seems as if (like most of the time cause I am a dumb blond) I am just being paranoid. I will clean off the spindle and inside of cranks and torque appropriately but will not (and dont need to) worry about turning the bolt the pidly 1/8 turn or less after every other ride or so.

    cheers
    After I had the problem initially, I checked the cranks before every ride. Once I felt secure that they weren't loosening up, I checked them every 3 rides. Now I check them once per week.

    It doesn't hurt to check them.

    I know this isn't the weight weenie thread, but I also wouldn't suggest using anything but steel bolts for attaching cranks. I know not too many folks use ti bolts for them anymore, but there was a day when they were all the rage.

    Good luck.

    Peter
    If a man talks dirty to a woman, it's sexual harassment. If a woman talks dirty to a man, it's $3.95 per minute.

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  21. #21
    Neg reppers r my biatches
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    Thanks again Peter.

    I am with you on the bolts for sure.....I wouldn't mind a alloy matching color threaded cap at some point but no way am I changing the bolt material.

    cheers

  22. #22
    Cubicle Fugitive
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    Just talked to the owner........seems as if (like most of the time cause I am a dumb blond) I am just being paranoid. I will clean off the spindle and inside of cranks and torque appropriately but will not (and dont need to) worry about turning the bolt the pidly 1/8 turn or less after every other ride or so.

    cheers
    Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean that potentially damaging play isn't developing between the crank and spindle.

    If the crank is seating itself further onto the spindle, thus causing the looseness, I would be diligent about taking up the slack by re-tourquing the bolt. Neglecting the situation will only make it worse and ultimately ruin the crank arm.

  23. #23
    Neg reppers r my biatches
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrmattaz
    I just went out and tightened each of mine another 1/4 to 1/2 turn, even the ENO on the 1X1, which I just installed yesterday and haven't ridden yet!

    I don't think anything is amiss anymore....
    thanks for that info! just give me about 10 minutes and I can post something else to obsess about I am sure

  24. #24
    jrm
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    Sure they may be brand new

    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    the bb and cranks are virtually brand new so i sure hope that is not the case....maybe i should get my 12 year old neighbor to torque it better for me
    But that doenst mean that theyre not to spec or the tolerances are off one or the other. Also, if they are brand new use steel crank bolts and not aluminum.

  25. #25
    Neg reppers r my biatches
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    you bet....I am sticking with steel bolts for sure. thanks again

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