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  1. #1
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    A little advice on sliding rear drop outs...

    I have built up my second single speed and love using the ebb on my Hooligan. However I also got my brother on the notion of Single Speeding and bought him a Redline Monocog with sliding rear drop outs, which is giving me some problems setting up. Can anyone point me in the right direction on how to set up the rear with disc brakes and the sliding drop outs...?
    "If 650b is the future and 26"ers are the past then sitting on my B6'er I am in the middle of the here and now"

  2. #2
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    I am not sure if you have a flight or even if that is any different anyhow, but on a standard monocog it has curved slots for the caliper mounting bolts. You just have to move it around on there until the caliper seems centered over the rotor. Also, if you are running the wheel really far forward and you have the caliper centered properly you will have rotor hitting the caliper body when you try to remove the wheel... at least with 160mm BB7s. I ended up putting it where I could just barely squeeze the rotor out of there.

    If you are really confused I would put the wheel with rotor on the bike first and then try to figure out how the caliper should be on there and I think you will have a light bulb moment.

  3. #3
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    Cool thanks, believe it or not, I have mt biking for many years but have only recently gotten into disc brakes. I guess my question is also how to get the get the proper tension adjustment *on both sides* and still make sure the rotor is set up correctly. Yes I will be running BB7's just like on the Hooligan which have worked out nicely.
    "If 650b is the future and 26"ers are the past then sitting on my B6'er I am in the middle of the here and now"

  4. #4
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    Loosen the mounting bolts so the caliper moves around freely in the slots and then tension your wheel as usual. Then you can figure out where the caliper goes. If you are having trouble getting the wheel centered make sure you are alternating sides as you tighten the bolts little by little. The chaintugs don't do that much other than help the process. I crushed one and broke it in half (using a quick release) and now just use one on my monocog.

  5. #5
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    I have this setup on my MUSS. All the bolts should be loose on the caliper body, so you can adjust the lateral movement as well as the position as it relates to disc. Put in your wheel, align the wheel and tension the chain. Next adjust the position of the caliper as it relates to the disc. Align the caliper so that the disc doesn't hit the caliper, it should have space so it doesn't "top out" and that the disc is more or less even going into the caliper body as it is coming out. Tighten the bolts on the adapter connecting the caliper to the bike frame. Now you can adjust the lateral movement. Turn the outer brake pad knob 1/2 turn and then turn the inner knob until the pads are snug against the disc. Tighten lateral or caliper bolts and alternate tightening the bolts until both are snug. Next tighten the wire pinch bolt. Turn the outer pad a 1/4 turn counter-clockwise and turn the inner knob 1/2 turn looser. You still need fine tuning, so spin the wheel and adjust pads as needed while attempting to preserve the 2:1 ratio, the inner pad should be twice as far away from the disc as the outer pad. I hope this makes sense. Here is also a link to Parktool's page describing the process for the bb7.

    Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Avid® Mechanical Disc Adjustment
    No fuss with the MUSS

  6. #6
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    One More Question...I put the bike together, however my other gripe with the sliding rear drop outs is that when I cut the chain, it was too long and not much room for the tensioners. Used another chain minus a full link now its too short for a 20t cog (32 up front). The axle was pulled all the way up in the sliding dropouts and could not make the link together, so I used the chain with the added link...I cant find a happy medium in chain length
    "If 650b is the future and 26"ers are the past then sitting on my B6'er I am in the middle of the here and now"

  7. #7
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    A little advice on sliding rear drop outs...

    Quote Originally Posted by Magnum Ti View Post
    One More Question...I put the bike together, however my other gripe with the sliding rear drop outs is that when I cut the chain, it was too long and not much room for the tensioners. Used another chain minus a full link now its too short for a 20t cog (32 up front). The axle was pulled all the way up in the sliding dropouts and could not make the link together, so I used the chain with the added link...I cant find a happy medium in chain length
    Sounds like you have track tips/rear entry horizontal dropouts, not sliding dropouts. The later use movable (sliding) vertical dropouts.

    Use the longer chain.
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