I an looking for the "effective" Top tube measurement on a 20" KHS Solo-One
The Top tube measurement is pretty important for me as I need a stretched out ride.
I am looking at the KHS Solo-One, Large which is listed as having a 23" actual top tube. Does anyone have the effective measurement (headtube to seatpost parallel to the ground). I called KHS and they were of no use, they said "I have the same measurements that you do."
I am shocked and chagrinned!
Still have the single speed bug, eh? Sorry, I do not have an answer for you, but I'm happy to hear your trying to get back over to the "Dark Side".
Originally Posted by KMan
And you know he really
does not want a KHS. No offense, that is a fine bike for sure, just not Mike's style.
So come on Mike, think some more before you try this out. Is it the softtail that has you thinking it might be more comfortable??
Ever since I sold the Spicer....I am jones to ride SS again,
I am looking a a cheapy SS that I can ride just every so ofter an maybe it won't do any damage to my back.
Have been looking at the Surly 1x1, Spot, Kona Unit, and now I see the KHS Solo One.
The KHS is a soft tail which I really like and may help with my back AND its on sale at Jenson for $400. Obiously would have to make some minor parts changes, but as long as the TT is close I think I am going to get one.
Great job a Michaux on Sunday! I was riding Middle Run/White Clay solo where there were NO rocks!
Originally Posted by KeithG
I guess I posted too soon
But you know you really want the Spot! I am still not sure about those sliding drops on the Kona.
Originally Posted by Manicmtbr
I think one of Drevil's friends had a custom soft tail ebb single built by Moots. That probably didn't cost too much
Speaking of Drevil...where were you Sunday? Michaux "rock"ed...literally!
And Ernesto would remind us that
any softtail can be a single speed with the inclusion of a White Industries ENO hub.
all hail der Fuhrer Bush
I dunno the answer, but don't forget...
...to also take into consideration the seat tube angle. The steeper the seat tube angle the further back you'll position your saddle and thus the longer the effective reach to the bar. Conversely, the slacker the seat tube angle the further forward you'll want to sit thus shortening the effective reach. To really dial in the fit based on specs you must know both the effective tt length and the seat tube angle.
It's a moving target
Depending on how long your legs are and how high the seat is will affect the effective top tube measurement as well. People define effective in different ways, but it is your effective measurement with the bike set up for you that matters. You could also opt for the XL Solo-one if you get an '04, Jensen quoted me $459 and my LBS matched it. It has some upgrades that make it worth the extra $60 ( tires, bash gaurd, color, etc.).
Originally Posted by bulC
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