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  1. #1
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    Hardrock sport disc to SS

    I know ill probably get alot of answers like use the SEARCH button and so on but anyway here goes. I got a 2011 hardrock sport disc back in july. Ive been riding it at least 2-3 times a week at the local trails. I find around here i am almost always in the middle ring in the front and either the 3rd or 4th from the top in the rear. I never usually use the other gears. Also i have the big ring off and a bashguard on. My question is im thinking of converting to SS if possible. My main questions are can anyone reccomend to me all the stuff i will need to buy to do so?? I know there are SS conversion kits, and i read about chain tensioners and so on, but all this SS stuff is new to me,So looking for some major help.
    I also thought about just adding a second bike, and was looking at buying a 2011 Gary fisher marlin SS. Depending how much it will cost me to go SS on the hardrock it might be a good choice seeing that its only 549 at my local lbs. But id really like to just get your opinion on if its possible to just switch my hardrock and what all i need to do. Thanks

  2. #2
    openwound
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    Yes, it's possible. Read the think up in the upper right corner...

    Name:  read this.PNG
Views: 607
Size:  5.5 KB

    Seriously, it's got all the info you need.

  3. #3
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    I SSed my '10 Rockhopper cop disc 29er. Here's what I bought and I love it.

    Gusset 18T single speed conversion kit $22
    RaceFace single ring 34T chainwheel $30
    Problem Solvers Double Chainring Bolt Set of 5(only need 4) $13

    and that's all so $65 total, same chain just removed links and the Rockhopper has adj. dropouts, if you don't then add a tensioner...

  4. #4
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    thanks man thats what i was looking to know!! i appreciate it

  5. #5
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    If it helps I got it all from bikebling.com (they are down the street from me)

    and if your a 26" I would recommend using the 16T that comes in the kit rather than the 18T, and with a 34T chainwheel.

    IMO this would be great for any situation/ride

  6. #6
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    2 bikes > 1 bike. Browse the classifieds here and CL. You can pick up a used Monocog, GT Peace, etc. for cheap. You could even pick up the 29er versions and have one of each wheel size.

  7. #7
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    thanks new light, you happen to have any pics of your rockhopper, id love to see it

  8. #8
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    I'll take one and post it tomorrow.

  9. #9
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    nevermind
    Last edited by New Light; 10-26-2010 at 10:30 AM.

  10. #10
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    Got It
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hardrock sport disc to SS-dscn4133.jpg  

    Hardrock sport disc to SS-dscn4138.jpg  

    Hardrock sport disc to SS-dscn4139.jpg  

    Hardrock sport disc to SS-dscn4143.jpg  


  11. #11
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    Is that saddle attached directly to the seat tube?

  12. #12
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    No but it's all the way down...I had to cut it....

  13. #13
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    Looks good I did the same to mine and don't regret it a bit.

  14. #14
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    Looks great!

  15. #15
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    thanks guys
    Escondido, CA

  16. #16
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    If you ride with your seat that low, you're either on the wrong size bike or you need some help with fitting. Trust me, you'll feel much better when everything is where it should be.
    "I like skinny jeans. Sometimes I wear them to the mall to get an Orange Julius." -Chim Chim

  17. #17
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    Thanks but I don't sit and pedal...I'm 6'5" and thats a 21....I actually wanna get a 19"
    Escondido, CA

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by New Light
    Thanks but I don't sit and pedal...I'm 6'5" and thats a 21....I actually wanna get a 19"
    why dont you sit and pedal? it's quite a bit faster in most cases.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    why dont you sit and pedal? it's quite a bit faster in most cases.
    I beg to differ. I find it slower...unless you are going at a 'pace'. Look at DHers, they dont sit it the smoother sections...bmx riders dont sit

    Also if u have gears it's a little different. Standing while pedaling with the granny gear and large cog doesnt really work....
    Escondido, CA

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by New Light
    I beg to differ. I find it slower...unless you are going at a 'pace'. Look at DHers, they dont sit it the smoother sections...bmx riders dont sit

    Also if u have gears it's a little different. Standing while pedaling with the granny gear and large cog doesnt really work....
    sitting is more efficient providing you can move the pedals. BMX and DHers dont sit because their seats are lowered so they can jump and decend. If you're trail riding with an xc bike, a low seat makes no sense.
    Ride what you want, but you wont win many races in the xc world without sitting at some point.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    sitting is more efficient providing you can move the pedals. BMX and DHers dont sit because their seats are lowered so they can jump and decend. If you're trail riding with an xc bike, a low seat makes no sense.
    Ride what you want, but you wont win many races in the xc world without sitting at some point.
    I don't xc...even tho thats what the bike was made for
    Escondido, CA

  22. #22
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    I am going to most likely just use my middle ring and bbg bashguard i have now for the front. I already have the big ring removed, just need to remove the crank to remove the small ring.
    Then im going to order the conversion kit and a tensioner bc my dropouts are not adjustable

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06OutlanderAWD
    I am going to most likely just use my middle ring and bbg bashguard i have now for the front. I already have the big ring removed, just need to remove the crank to remove the small ring.
    Then im going to order the conversion kit and a tensioner bc my dropouts are not adjustable
    U need a SS specific chainwheel. These are made for the chain to NOT come off unlike what you already have. You don't want to be mashing then the chain slips and you faceplant.
    Escondido, CA

  24. #24
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    really?? i didnt think it was necessary...i thought i saw ppl on here using just there middle ring...
    I was going to try this first, and if i have problems then order a SS specific chainring

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06OutlanderAWD
    really?? i didnt think it was necessary...i thought i saw ppl on here using just there middle ring...
    I was going to try this first, and if i have problems then order a SS specific chainring
    The stock ring should work fine, I wouldn't bother replacing it until it wears out.

    Edit: That is assuming you've got good tension and chainline.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by wreckedrex
    The stock ring should work fine, I wouldn't bother replacing it until it wears out.

    Edit: That is assuming you've got good tension and chainline.
    i think he'd end up using some sort of tensioning device, so a ramped/pinned chainring made for shifting is a pretty bad idea. It only takes once to split a nut.

  27. #27
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    ok nvm keeping the same middle ring.....i just placed a order for everything to make my bike a SS
    just ordered a 32t Single speed chainring, SS conversion kit, SS chain tensioner, and also a SS specific chain through pricepoint.com. total was 61 shipped.
    Cant wait for it all to get here.

  28. #28
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    Took my last ride today on my bike with gears. Went to white clay in DE, man what a good ride it was. My bike is not stripped down, awaiting my SS parts which should be here tuesday ! Cant wait!

  29. #29
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  30. #30
    one chain loop
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    the chain has some serious geary insecurities, im pretty sure you can still take a link off. otherwise its awesome.
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  31. #31
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    what you mean by chain has gearie insecurities? haha i bought a SS specific chain and installed that and it was skipping bad. so ended up using the old chain and removing some links. so you think i should remove another?

  32. #32
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    yeah be sure to measure, but lose a few more links....
    Escondido, CA

  33. #33
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    Definitely see if you can get a link out of that chain, you want that tensioner to take up as little slack as possible. Also, make sure everything lines up perfectly. I've used that tensioner a few times and they are really finicky, the chain will skip and/or drop if you don't have it as short as possible and aligned just so.

  34. #34
    master blaster
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    Quote Originally Posted by New Light
    Thanks but I don't sit and pedal...I'm 6'5" and thats a 21....I actually wanna get a 19"
    riding videos please?

  35. #35
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    ok thanks guys ill have to check it out, i know it was tight when i pulled it together but im pretty sure i could still remove 1 or 2 more links and get it together

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by veloreality
    riding videos please?
    I'll have my wife shoot some this weekend...
    Escondido, CA

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by New Light
    I'll have my wife shoot some this weekend...
    are you riding that bike like a dj?
    what trails are your riding on it that you dont sit down and pedal?
    i am ripping on you but im still curious.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by veloreality
    what trails are your riding on it that you dont sit down and pedal?
    .
    that's what i'm trying to figure out lol

  39. #39
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    Noble canyon for one. I walk up a lot of the uphill tho. I can sit an pedal at a casual pace..but I like to rip, coast, rip, coast....

    But I dont do a lot of trails anymore I do some dj some park (way more fun imo)
    Escondido, CA

  40. #40
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    I'm about to convert an old Trek 6500 to SS. Can you just use a BMZ chain like those colored KMC chains? I'll be running a DMR STS chain tensioner and keeping the middle ring off the crank.
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/149...peed-Chain.htm
    If you ever see a turtle on a telephone pole, remember he had help getting there. Is there anything beer can't do?

  41. #41
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    That chain in your link is the chain i bought. I could not get it to work at the length it came at it would skip really bad. And when i tried to remove some links i couldnt get them off. So I just used the chain that came on my bike and all was well!

  42. #42
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    The problem with that chain is that it is 1/8"...mtbs use 3/32". It would work fine if your cog and chainwheel was 1/8" as well. (which wouldnt be unless you put them in)

    Outlander, did you try using a chain breaker? And I am using my stock chain shortened as well...although a SS chain would be better, I haven't had any slipping as of yet.
    Escondido, CA

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by New Light
    The problem with that chain is that it is 1/8"...mtbs use 3/32". It would work fine if your cog and chainwheel was 1/8" as well. (which wouldnt be unless you put them in)

    Outlander, did you try using a chain breaker? And I am using my stock chain shortened as well...although a SS chain would be better, I haven't had any slipping as of yet.
    Thanks for the info. Seems like 1/8 would work fine with the smaller 3/32 whereas a 3/32 would not fit on a 1/8. Guess the tiny difference (1/8 chain on 3/32 cog and ring) makes it too lose on the cog teeth?

    Are SS specific rings and cogs standard 1/8 as opposed to the geared 3/32?
    If you ever see a turtle on a telephone pole, remember he had help getting there. Is there anything beer can't do?

  44. #44
    nothing to see here
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckie33
    Thanks for the info. Seems like 1/8 would work fine with the smaller 3/32 whereas a 3/32 would not fit on a 1/8. Guess the tiny difference (1/8 chain on 3/32 cog and ring) makes it too lose on the cog teeth?
    Sure it will be a little loose, but shouldn't make too much of difference. Maybe a little noisier, and may wear the teeth a little quicker.

    I have a 1/8 chain on a 1/8 cog and 3/32 chainring. The chainring is wearing much quicker than the cog, but both are aluminium.

    Are SS specific rings and cogs standard 1/8 as opposed to the geared 3/32?
    No. They all differ in size. You have to double check.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  45. #45
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    Get that tensioner to push up so you get more wrap.

  46. #46
    iRonic
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    06OutlanderAWD,

    You should be able to go one more link set on the chain, if the chain line is good, but it puts the tensioner pulley really close to the cog. It will also be very tight from spring pressure of the tensioner. I have basically that same tensioner and cog (18T?) on my 2010 HR, but different spacers than what your pics show. The cog on mine does look to be spaced a bit closer to the dropout than yours does.

    One thing I did a long time ago was get rid of the bracket on the tensioner that goes around the chain. Two washers about the same thickness on each side of the pulley wheel keeps it centered. Made it easier to work on the bike, not to mention it made me nervous having something the chain could catch on and rip the tensioner off (or break the hanger).

    I also tweaked the spring on it. All I needed was enough to keep the chain taught, but not enough to create unneeded friction from being way too tight.
    Ron

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