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Thread: Fixed gear

  1. #76
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    There's a bike shop 3 miles from work so I decided to head there at lunch and pick up a spoke wrench (that will be going in the seat pack I eventually put on this bike). When looking again almost all the loose spokes were on the drive side so it seems like p4nh4ndle's theory was right. For now its not creaking and I was able to get it reasonably true (not getting any rub on the rear brake pads - I knew there was a reason I left that brake on there ) but I'll get it up on the stand in the near future. Hope I didn't use up all the thread left on these nipples getting it tightened up.
    Yeah I only carry cans cause I'm a weight weenie.

  2. #77
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    When I read your description, Alexcuse, I was thinking it may have been a problem of inadequate stress relieving during tensioning. Are you using butted spokes? What is your routine when bringing the wheel up to tension?

    Also, and this is a Public Service Announcement that has little to do with your problem, but whenever working on a fixed wheel, avoid spinning the wheel idly. It is not unheard of for folks to accidentally get their fingertips amputated when they get between cog and chain on a moving fixed gear wheel. Respect the FG.
    Responds to gravity

  3. #78
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    On Sheldon Brown's Wheel Building page there is a section header called "Initial Spoke Adjustment" which should explain everything. This is one of the most important steps in wheel building.

  4. #79
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    had the wheel been properly tensioned/relieved in the first place that would have never happened irrespective of which direction you ran the wheel. FG flip-flop wheels have been in use worldwide since the 19th century and don't require any kind of special truing technique compared to a disk wheel.
    Last edited by monogod; 03-27-2013 at 11:41 AM.
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  5. #80
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    I should have been more clear I thought it may have been a problem with my slowing down without using brakes technique, not a problem with wheel building technique, though it seems that may have left a bit to be desired.

    I got the rear wheel used - didn't check much more than the hub bearings for smoothness and that the spoke tension felt reasonable - clearly something was a bit off, I'll give it a proper truing when I can get it off the bike. Spokes appeared butted when I checked, not sure on other build details though. I could definitely see lack of stress relief being a problem here - and one that the original owner may not have run into if he was running on the freewheel side (I only met him once but I'd guess he weighs at least 60 lbs less than me, imagine that could hide a lot of issues too). Lack of spoke prep could have played a role as well - if this becomes a constant thing I will probably try and get some of that wicking loctite into the threads.
    Yeah I only carry cans cause I'm a weight weenie.

  6. #81
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    As long as you're applying forces to the wheel by pedaling, it doesn't matter how hard you do it or which way you push: you can't do it wrong. A properly made wheel can take all the pedaling you can give it, doesn't matter which way the spoke heads are, doesn't matter if it's flipped, flapped or flopped, doesn't matter if you have disc brakes or none at all.

    So don't worry about your technique on the bike. Get the wheel build sorted and you'll be fine. Any kind of playing with the spoke direction is not a solution. There are reputable makers who suggest either way, and most of them say the other way (not theirs) is fine as well.

  7. #82
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    Re: Fixed gear

    Thanks guys - no pings on the way home. Really liking the fixed ride - it feels faster, I guess because I dont really get a chance to let up. We'll see how it goes when I get it on the trails but I don't think rear brake is gonna be staying on too long
    Yeah I only carry cans cause I'm a weight weenie.

  8. #83
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    Finally got out on the trails last night. Mud was an issue (I have Kenda K-Rad tires on the bike to make it a more viable commuter) and I'm glad I kept the rear brake on (the Deore brakes don't really give enough power up front, hoping a stiffer brake would allow me to remove the rear) but it was very fun. I'm probably going to have to man up and put clipless pedals on, because between the low bottom bracket and wide platforms I was mashing my pedals on everything. The clipless pedals wouldn't give much more clearance but I think the platform width was what I struggled with more than anything else.
    Yeah I only carry cans cause I'm a weight weenie.

  9. #84
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    Yeah, pedal strikes were abundant for my early FG MTBing days You eventually learn to take different approaches or find ways to get those pedals over obstacles.

    While this thread is current again, I thought I'd share that I sold my FG Hardrock, BUT I am planning to build a fixed wheel for my 1x1 so I have a more modern, conformable bike to ride fixed offroad I can use what I sold the bike for to build a rear wheel for my Surly. Essentially the same as what I had before, I'll just own 1 more wheel and 1 less bike.

  10. #85
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    Speaking of pedal strikes, has anyone experienced or heard of someone experiencing frame or component damage as a result of a nasty strike?
    Registered pedalphile.

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexCuse View Post
    Finally got out on the trails last night. Mud was an issue (I have Kenda K-Rad tires on the bike to make it a more viable commuter) and I'm glad I kept the rear brake on (the Deore brakes don't really give enough power up front, hoping a stiffer brake would allow me to remove the rear) but it was very fun. I'm probably going to have to man up and put clipless pedals on, because between the low bottom bracket and wide platforms I was mashing my pedals on everything. The clipless pedals wouldn't give much more clearance but I think the platform width was what I struggled with more than anything else.
    clipless give you better control over the rear wheel for speed modulation as well as allowing you to time your cranks before reaching obstacles. after a while the latter pretty much becomes second nature.
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by goldencalf View Post
    Speaking of pedal strikes, has anyone experienced or heard of someone experiencing frame or component damage as a result of a nasty strike?
    frame damage? no.

    component damage? yes. the crank arm ends take a beating and i've seen egg beaters destroyed. i use spd and have never busted one on any of the multiple nasty strikes they've endured.
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Yeah, pedal strikes were abundant for my early FG MTBing days You eventually learn to take different approaches or find ways to get those pedals over obstacles.

    While this thread is current again, I thought I'd share that I sold my FG Hardrock, BUT I am planning to build a fixed wheel for my 1x1 so I have a more modern, conformable bike to ride fixed offroad I can use what I sold the bike for to build a rear wheel for my Surly. Essentially the same as what I had before, I'll just own 1 more wheel and 1 less bike.
    I forget if it was this thread or the old one, but someone mentioned that riding fixed makes you sometimes chose the *more* technical line, but attack at certain points, to avoid pedal strike. Like a rock garden with a few rocks and a gap between... well you might luck out and line the cranks just right if you take the gap, or maybe you should just huck over them rocks instead!

    Last weekend I had my first "oh it doesn't feel right, I will prob pedal strike on that..." so I did a hop/half rotation, then kept going, and cleared it just right. Felt goooooood man.

    But right now my Troll is a 1x8 since I have a commute snafu I can't real deal with single speed. I miss fgmtb already and haven't even done my Sunday ride. Soon I hope to afford a IGH so it will be a matter of a straight wheelswap, no derailer to deal with.

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