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  1. #1
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    Favorite Chain - SS29er

    I know this has probably been discussed before, but i didnt find much in my search.

    I broke my chain twice in the last week on a tough climb and I am looking to replace it with te toughest chain i can buy.

    I was looking at the kmc chains like this:

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/206...peed-Chain.htm

    but wasnt sure what the 1/8" or 3/32" meant......and if it would stand up to dirt, mud......general abuse.

    My setup is pretty simple....running the typical 32 x 18 gearing (at least normal here) stock on a gary fisher rig.

    so guys, any advice?

  2. #2
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    I have a D101 on my track bike. It's nice for that purpose but still it's pretty heavy... one full pound. But it runs nice and I can trust it. On my Selma I have the KMC X-9SL and it's been great this year. My XTR chain runs fantastically too. I've really started liking high end 9spd chains over 1/8" SS chains. I'll put a 9spd chain on my track bike as soon as I need to replace the chaining so I can swap to a 3/32 drivetrain.

    1/8 and 3/32 is the width of the chain. Your drivetrain can be 3/32 (8/9spd) or 1/8. An 1/8 chain can be run on a 3/32 drivetrain, but not the other way around.

  3. #3
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    Good to hear. It may be my riding style causing this, because i am a masher rather than a smooth spinner (6' - 200lbs with gear). I recently converted back from a 32 x 16 setup to a 32 x 18 because i thought that was breaking chains.

    I am ok on the weight penalty if it is that much more reliable, but you have me concerned on the 1/8" vs. 3/32", sounds like i need steer away from the D101 and more towards an 8 speed chain?

    Or am i reading this wrong?

    Thanks again for the help.

  4. #4
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    I'm 6'3 ,215 and use a SRAM PC-850 on my SS with good results. When I was 235, I broke a couple of KMC Z610 1/8 chains which steered me away from them.

  5. #5
    RLK
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    Another vote for the SRAM 8-speed chain.

  6. #6
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    +1 for SRAM 8-speed, I read this before I ever started SS.

    http://surlybikes.com/blog/spew/3_-_...d_drivetrains/

  7. #7
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    Sram 850 or 870. I think jenson or pricepoint is selling last years chains and they are heavily discounted.

    Surly sums it up perfectly in that blog.

  8. #8
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    KMC K810 or the KMC K810SL if you can find it. Been running them for years never broke one.

  9. #9
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    I have been running a SRAM 870 on my SS since new.

    I did break one at a race this Summer, but I think I had the chain too tight, which could be your issue as well. It on;y had 400-500 miles on it, at the most.

  10. #10
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    SRAM 8-speed chain here.... PC-890

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schmucker
    I have a D101 on my track bike. It's nice for that purpose but still it's pretty heavy... one full pound. But it runs nice and I can trust it. On my Selma I have the KMC X-9SL and it's been great this year. My XTR chain runs fantastically too. I've really started liking high end 9spd chains over 1/8" SS chains. I'll put a 9spd chain on my track bike as soon as I need to replace the chaining so I can swap to a 3/32 drivetrain.

    1/8 and 3/32 is the width of the chain. Your drivetrain can be 3/32 (8/9spd) or 1/8. An 1/8 chain can be run on a 3/32 drivetrain, but not the other way around.
    a 9 speed chain is not 3/32". It's about 10% narrower. Sometimes this causes issues with fitting on singlespeed cogs and chainrings.

  12. #12
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    I use SRAM 8 speed... but on smaller hoops. It might not work well with 29ers.

  13. #13
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    i use 1/8in ring and cog, and a SRAM PC7X chain.

  14. #14
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    Sram 8sp chains for the last 6 years now. Ran kmc 410h's for about 6 years before that. They break about as often as each other but the srams are lighter.

  15. #15
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    What chains were you using which broke? How did you join the chain together?

    I suspect it may not be the chain's fault, and something else is causing the chain to break.

  16. #16
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    I am running whatever came on my Rig from Fisher. I am going to take the forums advice and try one of the 8 speed chains......could be my old one is just worn out....it happens.

  17. #17
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    Belt Drive?

    I (like many others) use SRAM 8-speed chains, but I have been thinking about changing to a belt drive, since belt seems to need less maintenance.

    Anybody have an opinion on belt drive reliability and strength? (Oh yeah, and cost.)
    The Lee-Man

    A witty saying proves nothing. -- Voltaire

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeMan
    Anybody have an opinion on belt drive reliability and strength? (Oh yeah, and cost.)
    Belt drive is NOT maintenance free. My opinion is stay with chain; there's a reason it's stuck around so long.

  19. #19
    L09erdr
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    Wow cant believe how many here are saying to run a multispeed chain on a SS bike. Run what you like I suppose but I always say a SS specific drivetrain needs a SS specific chain (within reason) depends on the situation and cog/chainring type. Same goes for 1/8 or 3/32 chains/cogs. The proper thing to do is match chain size with your chainwheel/cog teeth size. More wear and tear can occour if you decide to mismatch.

    To the original poster, are you setting your chain tension too tight? You should have about 1/4 to 1/2 ich of play in your chain. The tighter you tension your chain the more overall constant stress it puts on the chain not only while pedaling normally but when your mashing as well.

    Seabass_ The Z610 is a 3/32 chain... You must have had and broke the z510 which is a 1/8 chain. Thats a strong chain to break either way high tensile strength. What part of it roke a sideplate or did you not have one of the pins properly set?

  20. #20
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    Anyone here run a KMC S1 1/8 ss chain? How have you found them.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    Wow cant believe how many here are saying to run a multispeed chain on a SS bike. Run what you like I suppose but I always say a SS specific drivetrain needs a SS specific chain...
    Uh, no. A multispeed chain works fine, and generally multispeed chains are the highest quality and among the strongest.

  22. #22
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    Kmc 710sl

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    Seabass_ The Z610 is a 3/32 chain... You must have had and broke the z510 which is a 1/8 chain. Thats a strong chain to break either way high tensile strength. What part of it roke a sideplate or did you not have one of the pins properly set?

    My bad, it was the z410. A sideplate just broke off during a climb causing me to smash the jewels on the top tube! I posted pics here.

    WTF happened here????

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tricone
    Anyone here run a KMC S1 1/8 ss chain? How have you found them.
    See post 21

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    Wow cant believe how many here are saying to run a multispeed chain on a SS bike...?
    I think the fella's over at Surly said it best here: http://surlybikes.com/blog/spew/3_-_...d_drivetrains/

    Quote Originally Posted by Surly
    4. 1/2x1/8" chains vs. 1/2x3/32" chains. 1/2x1/8" chains suck. Run whatever you want, but bigger isn't better here. Yeah, they're wider, but according to manufacturer-supplied data, they're not stronger and they are definitely not of better quality. Multi-speed drivetrains is where the bucks are at, and chains that work on such drivetrains are where the manufacturers of chains showcase their innovations and developments in quality. The rollers are better, the plates are better, the pins are stronger, and the construction method (riveting procedure) is better on all multi-speed 3/32" chains.
    I didn't base my decision on chains because Surly said so, I based it on my own experience. Surly just took the time to properly put it on paper.

  26. #26
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    Sram Pc-850!

  27. #27
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    Sram 8 speed chains can break. But hey this is probably true of all chains (except perhaps the insanely heavy Wipperman BMX 1G8 singlespeed chain).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Favorite Chain - SS29er-p2231970.jpg  


  28. #28
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    I use the cheapest SRAM 9 speed chain the shop has in stock. This way my spare powerlinks work with either the geared or SS bike.

    The only time I've broken a chain on the SS was when I bashed it on a rock.

  29. #29
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    I just switched to a KMC X9 silver chain . It's a 9 speed chain . I originally used a KMC S1 singlespeed chain. The X9 is way more silent and hasn't broken or rusted yet . the links and pins are stainless so they are very resistant to these reactions .

  30. #30
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    I haven't broken a chain in a long time [I switched to Sachs-Sedis in the mid-90s], but I "stretch" them regularly to the point where they start to skip, which sucks. I was running SRAM 8spd chains for a long time, but recently tried out 9spd Dura-Ace. Nice chain, minimal elongation. I'm interested to see how it will hold up over the winter.
    @pinkrobeyyc
    #pinkrobeyyc

  31. #31
    L09erdr
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    Could be all very well and true what Surly states on their website page and sure you can run a multi speed chain on anything. Heck you can run a SS chain on a geared bike as well but thats not very wise.. Chains are designed for specific uses, I agree about the 1/8 chain vs a 3/32 chain it is mainly weight but at the same time its wise to match the sprocket tooth thickness size to your chain size.

    I'll never see eye to eye with those that swear by a multispeed chain on a SS setup. Innovations and technology isnt always better. They said alot there to promote the multispeed chains and they also stated its "where the money is" isnt that interesting. They didnt go into the part about how in most derailleur transmission chains (7,8,9 speed), the link plates are bent or cut so that the chains can change smoothly on the front or rear sprockets. They didnt talk about how the multi speed chains have more side to side flex either. These things can make chain skipping that much easier or more prone to happen on a SS setup.

    Anyway, back to the topic...Ever look at halflink chains (have been broken but quite strong) ? My best advice to answer this post (which I said above) is make sure your chain tension isnt set too tight. When looking for your next chain be it SS or multispeed pay attention to the tensile strength spec.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    Could be all very well and true what Surly...
    Sure multispeed chains are designed to make shifting easier, but the simple fact is if your chainline is good, it's a complete non-issue. If your chainline is off, and you're trying to use a single speed chain to keep the chain from dropping, then you're treating the symptom instead of simply taking care of the problem.

    Halflink chains generally seem to stretch faster, are heavier, and more than a single half link in a chain is complete waste.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tricone
    Sram 8 speed chains can break. But hey this is probably true of all chains (except perhaps the insanely heavy Wipperman BMX 1G8 singlespeed chain).
    Was a Pwerlink used to join the chain, or was the pin pushed out and then pushed back in?

  34. #34
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    When first converted a bike to SS I used a XTR 9 speed chain because it was pretty much new and I figured it made sense to at least try it.... it did not play well at all with the Salsa 32T SS front ring and Surly rear cog- it bound and did not seem to mesh well-

    I then went with a cheapy sram pc-1 and it worked well for a bit but I ended up beding/kinking it so it dropped every ride until I figured it out... and figured I would go a bit overboard and get the beefiest chain I could... I hate dropping a chain on a steep climb and wondering what part of my body will hit the stem, top tube or whatever I ended up going with a KMC Premium HX Series and it is not light but I go 210 or so and usually squeak out a climb rather than get off and walk- maybe putting a bit too much stress on the chain than I should?

    It goes without saying but chain line can make even the strongest chain cry for help -
    I Just wish I could ride more!


  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    Was a Pwerlink used to join the chain, or was the pin pushed out and then pushed back in?
    No powerlink anywhere near this link. This chain was new and this was noticed about a week later (admittedly 1200km of riding occured in that week). It was joined by a powerlink further away.

  36. #36
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    Cheapest SRAM 8 speed chain I can find.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by knottshore
    When first converted a bike to SS I used a XTR 9 speed chain .... it did not play well at all with the Salsa 32T SS front ring and Surly rear cog- it bound and did not seem to mesh well-
    I have been very pleased with XTR/DA (CN-7701) chains with whatever 3/32 chainrings and cogs I've had. Now using Blackspire rings and On-One Groove Armada cogs. Lasts longer than anything alse I've tried, too.

    "it IS possible that you are faster or slower than anybody else who is having at least as much if not more or less fun"

  38. #38
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    KMC Kool chain 3/32 bomb Proof

  39. #39
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    [QUOTE=L09erdr]Could be all very well and true what Surly states on their website page and sure you can run a multi speed chain on anything. Heck you can run a SS chain on a geared bike as well but thats not very wise.. Chains are designed for specific uses, I agree about the 1/8 chain vs a 3/32 chain it is mainly weight but at the same time its wise to match the sprocket tooth thickness size to your chain size.

    I'll never see eye to eye with those that swear by a multispeed chain on a SS setup. Innovations and technology isnt always better. They said alot there to promote the multispeed chains and they also stated its "where the money is" isnt that interesting. They didnt go into the part about how in most derailleur transmission chains (7,8,9 speed), the link plates are bent or cut so that the chains can change smoothly on the front or rear sprockets. They didnt talk about how the multi speed chains have more side to side flex either. These things can make chain skipping that much easier or more prone to happen on a SS setup.

    QUOTE]

    Well, when I talked to the Hive about which chain to run on my Fifteen G SS cranks, and they said without question that a high quality 9sp chain is the best. And they give very good reasons as to why.

    Quoted from the Fifteen G faq:

    Can I run a BMX/SS chain with my Fifteen.G Single Cranks?
    BMX/SS Chains such as the SRAM™ PC-1 are not recommended. These chains are wider than 8 or 9 speed chains and can create significant noise. Additionally, the chain floats back and forth and the radiused sections of the inner link plates tend to catch on the chainring tooth. We recommend using a 9 speed chain of any brand.

    Also note that using a SS/BMX chain requires the use of a SS/BMX 1/8” tooth-width freewheel, an 1/8” tooth width chainring, or both. It will not work with 3/32” or 2mm width teeth at both ends. As described above, SS or BMX chains typically have more play in the pin/bushing interface than shifting chains. Because of this, any misalignment is taken up in one or two links, as opposed to multiple as on a shifting chain (which uses tighter pin/bushing fits). For example, on a White Industries freewheel, or any which specifies a 3/32” chain, BMX/SS chains floats back and forth on the tooth. The chainring tooth radii are slightly larger than the bushing section, so the chain hops up and down a little. The same goes for our chainring which is 2mm wide, to allow for use in 1x9 systems or with a 9 speed chain.
    Stuffing our faces at an ever smaller table.

  40. #40
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    everyone's an engineer on this forum. Do they hand out degrees with membership?

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    everyone's an engineer on this forum. Do they hand out degrees with membership?

    But what if I really am an engineer?

    Really the chain doesn't matter as long as you use a 29er specific lubricant on it!

  42. #42
    Ovaries on the Outside
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonw9
    But what if I really am an engineer?

    Really the chain doesn't matter as long as you use a 29er specific lubricant on it!
    We still want to know if mtber hooked you up. 29ers don't need chains, they roll over things so well.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by umarth
    We still want to know if mtber hooked you up. 29ers don't need chains, they roll over things so well.
    29er is the new Danny Trejo.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by umarth
    We still want to know if mtber hooked you up. 29ers don't need chains, they roll over things so well.
    Just with my undergrad, I got my masters from bikeforums.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonw9
    Just with my undergrad, I got my masters from bikeforums.
    Rough. Couldn't get into a better school?

  46. #46
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    Werd

    Quote Originally Posted by ionsmuse
    I use the cheapest SRAM 9 speed chain the shop has in stock. This way my spare powerlinks work with either the geared or SS bike.
    But at a buck 35, I doubt I'd break a paper mache~ chain!
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  47. #47
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    I also use/vote for the SRAM 8 speed, but I'm thinking of switching to a Wipperman Stainless chain. They're expensive, but oh so cool. Anyone ridden 'em?

  48. #48
    L09erdr
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    Listen!

    [QUOTE=OdinOrion]
    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    Could be all very well and true what Surly states on their website page and sure you can run a multi speed chain on anything. Heck you can run a SS chain on a geared bike as well but thats not very wise.. Chains are designed for specific uses, I agree about the 1/8 chain vs a 3/32 chain it is mainly weight but at the same time its wise to match the sprocket tooth thickness size to your chain size.

    I'll never see eye to eye with those that swear by a multispeed chain on a SS setup. Innovations and technology isnt always better. They said alot there to promote the multispeed chains and they also stated its "where the money is" isnt that interesting. They didnt go into the part about how in most derailleur transmission chains (7,8,9 speed), the link plates are bent or cut so that the chains can change smoothly on the front or rear sprockets. They didnt talk about how the multi speed chains have more side to side flex either. These things can make chain skipping that much easier or more prone to happen on a SS setup.

    QUOTE]

    Well, when I talked to the Hive about which chain to run on my Fifteen G SS cranks, and they said without question that a high quality 9sp chain is the best. And they give very good reasons as to why.

    Quoted from the Fifteen G faq:

    Can I run a BMX/SS chain with my Fifteen.G Single Cranks?
    BMX/SS Chains such as the SRAM™ PC-1 are not recommended. These chains are wider than 8 or 9 speed chains and can create significant noise. Additionally, the chain floats back and forth and the radiused sections of the inner link plates tend to catch on the chainring tooth. We recommend using a 9 speed chain of any brand.

    Also note that using a SS/BMX chain requires the use of a SS/BMX 1/8” tooth-width freewheel, an 1/8” tooth width chainring, or both. It will not work with 3/32” or 2mm width teeth at both ends. As described above, SS or BMX chains typically have more play in the pin/bushing interface than shifting chains. Because of this, any misalignment is taken up in one or two links, as opposed to multiple as on a shifting chain (which uses tighter pin/bushing fits). For example, on a White Industries freewheel, or any which specifies a 3/32” chain, BMX/SS chains floats back and forth on the tooth. The chainring tooth radii are slightly larger than the bushing section, so the chain hops up and down a little. The same goes for our chainring which is 2mm wide, to allow for use in 1x9 systems or with a 9 speed chain.
    Nice try but, they are referring mainly to the SRAM PC1 which is a 1/8 sized chain. They also are referring to a SS/BMX chain as only a 1/8 sized chain. Of course its going to move side to side on a 3/32 chainring/cog. vs a 3/32 8-9speed chian. Lets get a non brand specific better write up comparing 8-9 speed 3/32 chains vs SS 3/32 chains on 3/32 sized gears. You must not have comprehended/believed what I posted above or you misread this information you posted from Fifteen G. Fifteen G doesnt use 1/8 sized chainrings so of course they are not going to reccomend a 1/8 sized chain. Dont try and prove something wrong that you dont understand.

  49. #49
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    Does the X9 SL work ok? I'm looking for a hollow pinned and cutout plated chain. I currently ride the KMC 710SL-Ti.
    Lead actor Will of the Sun, Author Platform Pedal Shootout 900K+ views

  50. #50
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    L09erdr: You're not entirely right either. The Wi ENO freewheel example FifteenG illustrates is totally true. I have a 3/32 chainring (UNO) and 3/32 freewheel (ENO). It happened last Friday on the EBBP ride where I hammered out of saddle and the chain jumped. Tension is tight, sliders totally locked down, but the slight play between 3/32 and 1/8 is real. It's usually fine, but on some occassions when i drop the hammer, i have a slight non-confidence in the drivetrain.
    Lead actor Will of the Sun, Author Platform Pedal Shootout 900K+ views

  51. #51
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    [QUOTE=L09erdr]
    Quote Originally Posted by OdinOrion

    Nice try but, they are referring mainly to the SRAM PC1 which is a 1/8 sized chain. They also are referring to a SS/BMX chain as only a 1/8 sized chain. Of course its going to move side to side on a 3/32 chainring/cog. vs a 3/32 8-9speed chian. Lets get a non brand specific better write up comparing 8-9 speed 3/32 chains vs SS 3/32 chains on 3/32 sized gears. You must not have comprehended/believed what I posted above or you misread this information you posted from Fifteen G. Fifteen G doesnt use 1/8 sized chainrings so of course they are not going to reccomend a 1/8 sized chain. Dont try and prove something wrong that you dont understand.
    I got it, you did not. And if you had actually read, instead of getting defensive, you would have noticed that the quote from the faq mostly reinforces what you had stated earlier. It's not a good idea to mix and match. Beyond that though, there is a very interesting bit about there being typically more play in SS/BMX type chains in the pin/bushing interface than shifting chains. And this difference causes any misalignment to be taken up in one or two links as opposed to many on the shifting chain. I don't think they mention that just for giggles, or to raise hairs on SS chain lovers. How do you think that relates to reliability, strength, efficiency, quality, and noise? This supports Surly's assertion about shifting chains over SS.

    As far as compatibility goes and 1/8 over 3/32, there is without question far more offerings in the area of 3/32 and shifting chains. So there are more options here. Therefor, if you are ever caught with a damaged or broken component in need of immediate replacement, your chances of finding something quickly and easily, at a bike shop or even a fellow rider, are much greater. Reason enough to go 3/32.
    Stuffing our faces at an ever smaller table.

  52. #52
    L09erdr
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    Illnacord - Im in the far right lane, or as close to the right as I can get lol J/K Its not rocket science, thought theres lots of misinformtion/smoke and mirrors out there about a bikes drivetrain. I noticed your running a 1/8 chain (KMC 710SL-Ti) on 3/32 gears. You should go to a SS 3/32 chain or a 3/32 8-9spd chain like White Indistries reccomends for their freewheels.

    Just for clarification you want a very very small ammount of side to side play, I have it.... and about any 3/32 geared/chain drivetrain will. If you dont have a little play its just going to wear the teeth. For instance a 3/32 chain on 1/8 sized teeth not a good thing. The problems come up when you got a 1/8 chain on a 3/32 toothed ring or cog as well. Then you have too much play and possibly excess noise. The chain can sit too low on the teeth and create wear and problems and all kinds of maddness and messes.

    You mentioned above going to a KMC X9 SL which is a nice chain. Kinda high $$ but is 3/32 and should work much better in your case. You might also look at KHE and a few other alternative brands to KMC's hollow pin chain to save a few $$ if your set to go with a "hollowed" chain. Which is lighter but in another sense not always better if you know what I mean. Search yourself down any 3/32 chain to try out before you go hollow IMO see how it runs and then decide if you want to cut your pocketbook down for a lil weight savings. Your already going to save weight going from a 1/8 chain to a 3/32.
    Last edited by L09erdr; 10-14-2010 at 02:52 AM.

  53. #53
    L09erdr
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    Idea!

    [QUOTE=OdinOrion]
    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr

    I got it, you did not. And if you had actually read, instead of getting defensive, you would have noticed that the quote from the faq mostly reinforces what you had stated earlier. It's not a good idea to mix and match. Beyond that though, there is a very interesting bit about there being typically more play in SS/BMX type chains in the pin/bushing interface than shifting chains. And this difference causes any misalignment to be taken up in one or two links as opposed to many on the shifting chain. I don't think they mention that just for giggles, or to raise hairs on SS chain lovers. How do you think that relates to reliability, strength, efficiency, quality, and noise? This supports Surly's assertion about shifting chains over SS.

    As far as compatibility goes and 1/8 over 3/32, there is without question far more offerings in the area of 3/32 and shifting chains. So there are more options here. Therefor, if you are ever caught with a damaged or broken component in need of immediate replacement, your chances of finding something quickly and easily, at a bike shop or even a fellow rider, are much greater. Reason enough to go 3/32.
    I read it all.. whos the one taking offense here? You didnt exactly help my points come across with the FAQ your posted but oh well..

    The part about:
    Beyond that though, there is a very interesting bit about there being typically more play in SS/BMX type chains in the pin/bushing interface than shifting chains. And this difference causes any misalignment to be taken up in one or two links as opposed to many on the shifting chain. I don't think they mention that just for giggles, or to raise hairs on SS chain lovers. How do you think that relates to reliability, strength, efficiency, quality, and noise?
    This is indeed both a thing that needs more research over and while it can be somewhat true its also partly smoke and mirrors to move people to the higher $$ "where the money is at" 8/9 spd chian. Are you prepred for my response? All systems go? Ready to comprehend? Read, Follow? : )

    Newer chains today mainly SS models are now bushingless, that makes for less wear and less noise to say the least. The FAQ article you posted is true if your talking about a older SS chain that had bushings which was more alike to a 8/9spd chain of today. So this changes everything about what they are saying about the pin/bushing interface etc. and makes it less true in todays chain/drivetrain world. When you dont have a bushing in the chain the pin/plate interface becomes that much tighter in tolerance. Ie. makes for far less sag and/or chain flexability/play (side to side). Im not directing this at you OdinOrion but companies and other sources are at fault as well for misinforming. If you wish do a little research on what chain bushings do and what their purpose is/was if you want. No pun just trying to clear the smoke and mirrors! Help others get their drivetrain right.

  54. #54
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    One thing I am not sure about now, is people here are recommending 9-speed chains. All the searching I have seen here seemed to got to the 6,7,8 speed chains.

    Is the width of a 9 speed the same as an 8-speed? What is the width of a 10-speed (out of curiosity)?

  55. #55
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    If your using a SS setup those numbers arent nearly as important. Your rmore focused on chain alignment and matching chain width with your chainring/cog(s)/freewheel(s) tooth size.

    edit: This 10 speed chain lists its width. http://www.amazon.com/KMC-DX10SC-Bic.../dp/B001AYOP9M The 10 speed chain spec is wider than 3/32 so thats odd... Prob not a good choice of chain to run on a SS.

    Maybe someone will chime in on the differences between 6,7,8, spd. vs 8,9 spd vs 10 spd. Its not my specialty, I look at it as catagories to match with a bike if it uses gears.
    Last edited by L09erdr; 10-15-2010 at 04:38 AM.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    Newer chains today mainly SS models are now bushingless, that makes for less wear and less noise to say the least. The FAQ article you posted is true if your talking about a older SS chain that had bushings which was more alike to a 8/9spd chain of today.
    Especially after this I'm questioning if you know anything about chains at all. Multispeed chains of today are bushingless, and have been for a while. Also, 8 speed chains are not 9 speed chains. 7,8 share width, 9 speed is narrower, then 10 speed is narrower still.

  57. #57
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    Heres some more information (good reading) to try and decipher for those of you that are pondering whats the perfect chain. Talks about the side to side or flexability that I mentioned above. Side to side flex is better to have on a multi speed setup not on a SS.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/chain_stiffness.htm

  58. #58
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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    Especially after this I'm questioning if you know anything about chains at all. Multispeed chains of today are bushingless, and have been for a while. Also, 8 speed chains are not 9 speed chains. 7,8 share width, 9 speed is narrower, then 10 speed is narrower still.
    Rubbish not all multi chains are bushingless today. Ok you may be partly right about 7,8 charing width being alike and 9 being narrower (which is another reason to not run it on a SS setup) but if you size spec 10 spd chains why are they so much larger? 3/32 is clearly smaller than 11/28?

  59. #59
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    Could 11/28 be the outside width of the chain?

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    9 being narrower (which is another reason to not run it on a SS setup)
    Only if you are using wide chainrings and cogs. An "8 speed" chain has some side to side slack on an otherwise 9 speed sized SS drivetrain. It does not cause any real harm but there's no particular reason to run wide chains on narrow cogs.

    "it IS possible that you are faster or slower than anybody else who is having at least as much if not more or less fun"

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    Rubbish not all multi chains are bushingless today. Ok you may be partly right about 7,8 charing width being alike and 9 being narrower (which is another reason to not run it on a SS setup) but if you size spec 10 spd chains why are they so much larger? 3/32 is clearly smaller than 11/28?
    Dude, you're funny. You're also wrong. Find a multispeed chain from a major manufacturer today which still uses bushings. You won't find one. Oh, and I also to mention, bushing chains are generally more laterally stiff then bushingless chains.

    So, how about you stop lecturing us on something you obvious don't know about.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonw9
    Could 11/28 be the outside width of the chain?
    If I remember correctly, 3/32 is the inside width between inner plates on a chain, and 11/28 is the length from one end of a pin to its other end.

  63. #63
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    Ok... so wheres the proof that the inner plate width is the same on a 3/32 SS chain vs say a 5,6,7 or 8,9 or 10 speed chains? Narrowed chains only belong on multi speed bikes IMO. Why fool with their mulispeed mumbo jumbo?

    "Break out Lucuille" they have overly complicated the drivetrain world. People above were saying they run a 8/9spd on their SS, might be a bit thin? A 6,7,8 may be closer to a reg 3/32 SS chain in real world spec/conditions if you choose to run a multi chain on your SS?

  64. #64
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    Listen!

    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    Dude, you're funny. You're also wrong. Find a multispeed chain from a major manufacturer today which still uses bushings. You won't find one. Oh, and I also to mention, bushing chains are generally more laterally stiff then bushingless chains.

    So, how about you stop lecturing us on something you obvious don't know about.
    I can be sometimes.. I dont think im wrong yet, I'd admit to it or change the info I post if I was.

    Generally if the chain does not say "bushingless" chances are high that it could have bushings. Looking at SRAM (major manufacturer) for instance in their chain section of their website im not seeing many (if any) noted as "bushingless". Your statement about bushing chains being more stiff than a bushingless model is not fully true (not set in stone) it varies... Read the Sheldon Brown page link I posted above. More than just bushings come into play on how laterally stiff a chain is. Im not lecturing im informing, believe it or not, learn from it or forget it. Your choice/decision?

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    Generally if the chain does not say "bushingless" chances are high that it could have bushings. Looking at SRAM (major manufacturer) for instance in their chain section of their website im not seeing many (if any) noted as "bushingless".
    Again, you're flat out wrong. Companies don't advertise it's bushingless since it since it's virtually a given. If you had hands on experience, you'd already know this.

    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    Your statement about bushing chains being more stiff than a bushingless model is not fully true (not set in stone) it varies... Read the Sheldon Brown page link I posted above. More than just bushings come into play on how laterally stiff a chain is.
    As I said before "bushing chains are generally more laterally stiff then bushingless chains". Since you seem to value Sheldon's information so much, here it is straight from the man:

    "Since the "bushing" of a bushingless chain is made up of two halves that don't connect directly with each other, this type of chain is more flexible sideways than a conventional chain. This is because the two halves of the "bushing" have a bit of "wiggle room" with respect to each other."

    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    I can be sometimes.. I dont think im wrong yet, I'd admit to it or change the info I post if I was...Im not lecturing im informing, believe it or not, learn from it or forget it. Your choice/decision?
    What you're doing is giving out bad information and, more annoyingly, arguing with people about it. I'd suggest not "informing" people until getting your facts straight.

  66. #66
    L09erdr
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonw9
    Could 11/28 be the outside width of the chain?
    Could be.. not sure (being honest) still seems too big to be even the outside width.

    bad mechanic said its pin width? could be...seems wide for that too on a 10spd chain? Oh well.. We need more chain width info between the many multi spd chains out there.

  67. #67
    L09erdr
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    Again, you're flat out wrong. Companies don't advertise it's bushingless since it since it's virtually a given. If you had hands on experience, you'd already know this.


    As I said before "bushing chains are generally more laterally stiff then bushingless chains". Since you seem to value Sheldon's information so much, here it is straight from the man:

    "Since the "bushing" of a bushingless chain is made up of two halves that don't connect directly with each other, this type of chain is more flexible sideways than a conventional chain. This is because the two halves of the "bushing" have a bit of "wiggle room" with respect to each other."


    What you're doing is giving out bad information and, more annoyingly, arguing with people about it. I'd suggest not "informing" people until getting your facts straight.
    Im not misinforming anyone... You may want to read at the bottom o this page a little closer http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/chain_stiffness.htm He clarifies and goes back on what he stated on the page where you got that information from.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    Im not misinforming anyone... You may want to read at the bottom o this page a little closer http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/chain_stiffness.htm He clarifies and goes back on what he stated on the page where you got that information from.
    How many times do I have to say "generally"? Go back and read what I wrote. There are generally always some exceptions, which is exactly what he says. This is as opposed to what you said, "When you dont have a bushing in the chain the pin/plate interface becomes that much tighter in tolerance. Ie. makes for far less sag and/or chain flexability/play (side to side)" which is, as mentioned before, wrong.

  69. #69
    L09erdr
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    We the people ...

    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    How many times do I have to say "generally"? Go back and read what I wrote. There are generally always some exceptions, which is exactly what he says. This is as opposed to what you said, "When you dont have a bushing in the chain the pin/plate interface becomes that much tighter in tolerance. Ie. makes for far less sag and/or chain flexability/play (side to side)" which is, as mentioned before, wrong.
    Heh... Im not totally wrong or not totally right either on that specific statement. You have me there. However, your conflicting arguement of "a bushinged chain being generally stiffer" is wrong as well. So... :shrugs:
    Last edited by L09erdr; 10-15-2010 at 08:18 AM.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by illnacord
    Does the X9 SL work ok? I'm looking for a hollow pinned and cutout plated chain. I currently ride the KMC 710SL-Ti.
    the k810sl is the 3/32" version of the 710sl. It has the cut out side plates and hollow pins. This is what i run on my bike.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    Illnacord - Im in the far right lane, or as close to the right as I can get lol J/K Its not rocket science, thought theres lots of misinformtion/smoke and mirrors out there about a bikes drivetrain. I noticed your running a 1/8 chain (KMC 710SL-Ti) on 3/32 gears. You should go to a SS 3/32 chain or a 3/32 8-9spd chain like White Indistries reccomends for their freewheels.

    Just for clarification you want a very very small ammount of side to side play, I have it.... and about any 3/32 geared/chain drivetrain will. If you dont have a little play its just going to wear the teeth. For instance a 3/32 chain on 1/8 sized teeth not a good thing. The problems come up when you got a 1/8 chain on a 3/32 toothed ring or cog as well. Then you have too much play and possibly excess noise. The chain can sit too low on the teeth and create wear and problems and all kinds of maddness and messes.

    You mentioned above going to a KMC X9 SL which is a nice chain. Kinda high $$ but is 3/32 and should work much better in your case. You might also look at KHE and a few other alternative brands to KMC's hollow pin chain to save a few $$ if your set to go with a "hollowed" chain. Which is lighter but in another sense not always better if you know what I mean. Search yourself down any 3/32 chain to try out before you go hollow IMO see how it runs and then decide if you want to cut your pocketbook down for a lil weight savings. Your already going to save weight going from a 1/8 chain to a 3/32.
    the hollow pin/hollow sideplate kmc 3/32" bmx chains are actually heavier than a 8/9 speed non hollow chain.

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    Ok... so wheres the proof that the inner plate width is the same on a 3/32 SS chain vs say a 5,6,7 or 8,9 or 10 speed chains?
    up to 8 speed, chains are 3/32". 9 speed and 10 speed are much narrower (about 10% for a 9 speed chain).

  73. #73
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    8-spd chain it is. What is best for the dollar? SRAM chain models: PC-850, 870 or 890? The numbers have to do with load, but does it have anything to do with durability over miles?
    Lead actor Will of the Sun, Author Platform Pedal Shootout 900K+ views

  74. #74
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    Sigh* Search is your friend, mine, too: MTBR can you guys recommend a good SS 3/32" chain
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  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by L09erdr
    edit: This 10 speed chain lists its width. http://www.amazon.com/KMC-DX10SC-Bic.../dp/B001AYOP9M The 10 speed chain spec is wider than 3/32 so thats odd... Prob not a good choice of chain to run on a SS.
    That's a typo. 11/28" is supposed to 11/128". A 10 speed chain is 1/128" narrower than 3/32" = 12/128" wide 9 speed chain.

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_squid
    That's a typo. 11/28" is supposed to 11/128". A 10 speed chain is 1/128" narrower than 3/32" = 12/128" wide 9 speed chain.
    So, you are saying that a 6-8 speed chain and a 9 speed are all 3/32? Or are you implying that 6-8 speeds are >3/32 but <1/8?

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