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  1. #1
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    Eno install and chainline

    Hi, I have been lurking these forums for a few months now and I have to thank every one for the advice I have already put into use.

    I have an old Mongoose that I put back on the road as a SS commuter. The first build up was cheep and cheerful with a Shimano 105 square taper crankset and an inexpensive sealed BB, Surly 49 tooth chainring and an ACS 20 tooth free wheel. I basicly slapped it together with Sheldon's short QR axle trick and redished the wheel to match the chainline of the chainring. This has been great, It let me get a feel for riding again.

    Unfortunately now I have decided to get a little more serious about the SS commuting the original build is conflicting with the installation of the shiny new ENO excentric rear wheel I just had assembled. Having gone back to measure it the chainwheel is about 55mm from centerline and the sprocket is sitting 52.5mm from centerline. Close enough when eyeballing it with a straight edge. Once I put the ENO in the dropouts I saw the sprocket will line up at around 42.5mm. I’m fairly sure this is a BAD THING.

    Now, to my question. Bearing in mind the chainring is about 6mm off the chainstay, can anyone think of a better (less expensive) way? or am I going to have to bite the bullet and buy a shorter BB, smaller chainring and a smaller freewheel?

    Sorry for the novella.
    A revolution without dancing is a revolution not worth having. V.

  2. #2
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    mmmm Maybe check that chainline, the ENO hubs have a 47.5mm chainline, either with a Freewheel or the fixed side.

  3. #3
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    Thks Stu I went back and had another look at the ruler. I forgot the first axle is 125mm. On a 130mm axle ENO measures 30mm from the dropout to the sholder of the freewheel thread so 47.5mm sounds about right once a freewheel is on.

    That still leaves me with 7.5mm of offset. How much chainline displacement can I get away with here?
    A revolution without dancing is a revolution not worth having. V.

  4. #4
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    Adding a freewheel spacer between the hub body and freewheel can net you 3-5mm. I ran a 3mm spacer on an eno hub for about 4 years with no problems.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...14594#poststop

  5. #5
    PeT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tolstoy2001
    That still leaves me with 7.5mm of offset. How much chainline displacement can I get away with here?
    Are you running your chainring on the outer position of your spider/crank? Move it to the center position of a 3 ring crank or to the inner position of a road double crank and you might find yourself with a perfect chainline.
    "The plural of anecdote is not data." -- Attributed to various people in a variety of forms, but always worth remembering...

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the advice guys,

    Loudpawlz - I am a fairly hefty rider at 130Kg so I am a bit uncomfortable reducing the number of threads holding the freewheel on.

    PeT – I have the chainring on the inside position of the crank, It is a road double and I only have about 6mm clearance to the chainstay with the 49 tooth surly chainring anyway.

    I guess I just have to accept that it’s going to cost a bit more than I hoped to achieve ENO nirvana…………
    A revolution without dancing is a revolution not worth having. V.

  7. #7
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    To get out to where my White freewheel is running on my Phil hub, I had to use a 128mm bb. for my 32t 180mm ENO cranks.
    Plenty o' chainstay clearance.
    May switch the Phil wheels for some King wheels from another bike to get the cog further inboard and a narrower bb, but until then, everything works great.

  8. #8
    CB2
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    Maybe your bb spindle is too long?

  9. #9
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    here are some instructions for determining spindle length from White Industires, I need to order the VBC cranks from them but didn't know what spindle to get so here is how they told me to measure

    1st: measure back 180mm from the center of the BB down the chainstay on both sides, mark this point with a sharpie (will come off with rubbing alcohol)

    2nd: measure the width outside -to-outside

    3rd: if your measurement is <135 than a 113mm will work, if it is wider than 135 than add that number to 113 and you get your BB spindle width.

    Here's an couple examples

    chainstays measured 128 on one bike so it gets a 113, another bike has 145 chainstays so its 10mm wider than 135 so add 10mm to 113, you get a 123 spindle

    I would call White and doouble check, this was for their BVC double cranks
    Last edited by scooter916; 02-20-2009 at 10:06 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by thefuzzbl
    aluminium has a tendency to fail when you need it most. i.e. you end up with a bad day.

  10. #10
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    Thanks to everyone who pitched in with suggestions!

    I got the chainline spot on with just a 122.5mm BB. This does bring the chainwheel to within a beesdick of the chainstay but if its a problem I guess I'll just have to move the chainwheel to the outer position on the crank.

    Yeah, It's good to finally have a ridable bike again!
    A revolution without dancing is a revolution not worth having. V.

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