Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    flaccid member
    Reputation: retch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    86

    Doh! Chain too loose on filed frame!

    I filed my steel frame about a year ago so that I could go tensionerless. Either the axel has settled into my dropouts a little or the chainring / cog have somehow shrank over the past several months because, even with 2 different brand new chains, the chain is pretty loose. The new chain isn't slipping or falling off yet, but I know it will as soon as it stretches a little because I can remove it pretty easily with my fingers.

    Can I add a little JB Weld to the dropouts? I think that 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of material would be enough to fix the problem. Could a welder arc a little steel into the dropout w/o affecting the frame adversely? (The frame is a circa '91 Bianchi Osprey - the main tubes are lugged, but I can't tell if the dropouts were lugged & brazed or welded.) Will chain tugs work with vertical dropouts & a QR? Any other ideas? Keep in mind that the material will be added at the front of the dropout & won't be bearing any weight. A tensioner is not an option because I grind up a lot of sticks & weeds with my rear cog riding on "ungroomed" trails (that, and tensioners are ugly IMO). Thanks for your replies!

    Matt
    Who's really holding the remote control?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: qtip's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    515
    Quote Originally Posted by retch
    I filed my steel frame about a year ago so that I could go tensionerless. Either the axel has settled into my dropouts a little or the chainring / cog have somehow shrank over the past several months because, even with 2 different brand new chains, the chain is pretty loose. The new chain isn't slipping or falling off yet, but I know it will as soon as it stretches a little because I can remove it pretty easily with my fingers.

    Can I add a little JB Weld to the dropouts? I think that 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of material would be enough to fix the problem. Could a welder arc a little steel into the dropout w/o affecting the frame adversely? (The frame is a circa '91 Bianchi Osprey - lugged, not welded.) Will chain tugs work with vertical dropouts & a QR? Any other ideas? Keep in mind that the material will be added at the front of the dropout & won't be bearing any weight. A tensioner is not an option because I grind up a lot of sticks & weeds with my rear cog riding on "ungroomed" trails (that, and tensioners are ugly IMO). Thanks for your replies!

    Matt
    my experience with JB weld has been that it hardens up and becomes brittle. I would think that if the intent were to have the JB weld hold the stresses of the wheel, it would crack and fall out of the filed section of dropout.

    Maybe I don't completely understand your question, but if you filed a section forward in your dropout, why can't you just move the wheel back to its' original postion in the dropout and crank a steel faced qr on. If that still doesn't work to give enough tension, file a flat spot on your hub axle giving the shape of a D and that should give you enough room to tension that chain up. If I'm totally off base and mis-understanding your question I apologize for the long read....

  3. #3
    Retro Grouch
    Reputation: aka brad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,091

    New question here. Have you thought this out...

    IMHO, if you have play in your dropouts because you filed them, then you should be able to simply tighten the chain by pulling the wheel back. I good QR (and most Shimano's will do the job) should hold the hub in place. If not convert to a solid axle.

    1G1G, Brad

  4. #4
    flaccid member
    Reputation: retch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    86
    The QR won't hold for long, even with grippy star-washer dohickeys. Could somebody please direct me to a post/page that shows how to replace a hollow axel with a solid one & where to buy the parts (I have no LBS)? I have my choice of WTB or Shimano rear hubs to convert.


    Quote Originally Posted by aka brad
    IMHO, if you have play in your dropouts because you filed them, then you should be able to simply tighten the chain by pulling the wheel back. I good QR (and most Shimano's will do the job) should hold the hub in place. If not convert to a solid axle.

    1G1G, Brad
    Who's really holding the remote control?

  5. #5
    all hail der Fuhrer Bush
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,635

    a q/r will work

    I don't know what grippy star washer doohickeys are. Did you just add something like serrated sidepull brake bolt washers to the skewer in hopes that would hold it?

    What you need is a quick release skewer with steel ends, like all skewers had prior to the lightweight boutique skewer craze. Old Shimano, SunTour, Campy or clones of those should hold just fine.
    In addition, if your hub has aluminum locknut faces instead of the serrated steel ones that have held countless road hubs securely into horizontal dropouts for the past century or so, switch to serrated steel locknuts.
    combining the two -- steel-ended skewers and serrated steel locknuts -- WILL hold your wheel without slipping, I guarantee it.

  6. #6
    flaccid member
    Reputation: retch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    86
    I'll give it another try with a different QR. Hopefully it's that simple. I like simple. I am simple.

    Quote Originally Posted by bulC
    I don't know what grippy star washer doohickeys are. Did you just add something like serrated sidepull brake bolt washers to the skewer in hopes that would hold it?

    What you need is a quick release skewer with steel ends, like all skewers had prior to the lightweight boutique skewer craze. Old Shimano, SunTour, Campy or clones of those should hold just fine.
    In addition, if your hub has aluminum locknut faces instead of the serrated steel ones that have held countless road hubs securely into horizontal dropouts for the past century or so, switch to serrated steel locknuts.
    combining the two -- steel-ended skewers and serrated steel locknuts -- WILL hold your wheel without slipping, I guarantee it.
    Who's really holding the remote control?

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: qtip's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    515
    Quote Originally Posted by retch
    The QR won't hold for long, even with grippy star-washer dohickeys. Could somebody please direct me to a post/page that shows how to replace a hollow axel with a solid one & where to buy the parts (I have no LBS)? I have my choice of WTB or Shimano rear hubs to convert.
    I've used old suntour/shimano steel qr's on my fixie cross bike witout any slipping. I think an old steel faced qr will work out for you. If it's slipping on the paint of the dropout, you could scuff up the paint a bit for a metal/metal surface. If you must have a solid axle (I've had solid axles slip more...even my phil wood hub....than a tight steel qr, but that's just my experience) I would think that aebike would have one.

    http://aebike.com/site/page.cfm?Page...id+axle&Brand=

  8. #8
    USB Rep'n
    Reputation: namaSSte's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,363
    AE Bike also carries Delta bolt on skewers. They are not quite as good as a solid axle but better than a quick release. You might also look at getting a 3/32" half link from Spicer Cycles. Between the better skewer and a half link, your problems should be solved. One other thing to consider is the wear on your chainring and cog. After a year, you'll have enough wear there to generate plenty of chain slack. I'd change the cogs and ring ($can be done for $20 using inexpensive stuff) and the bolt on skewers ($10) and I think you'll be set. If you need a half link, I think they are about $10 too. Still, for $40, you can be sans tensioner and have a great chain tension. Better than scrapping a frame.
    though hope is frail, it must prevail - Taj Weekes

    betam eh-wud-eh-HA-lehu y
    eh-nay Ityopia!

  9. #9
    flaccid member
    Reputation: retch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    86

    Problem solved!

    I dug through my "box o' stuff" & found an old steel Shimano QR. It sinched down tightly & held the wheel in place through 12 miles of hilly trails. Thanks to all of you who replied for your advice.
    Who's really holding the remote control?

Similar Threads

  1. Bought a frame with a crack
    By MegaVolt in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 06-18-2009, 11:51 AM
  2. What did my 88 Fat Chance sell for new?
    By mojo in forum Vintage, Retro, Classic
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 06-20-2005, 02:26 PM
  3. If you need to know this.
    By KevinVokeyJ24 in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 12-24-2004, 08:40 AM
  4. Spot Rocket Frame Saver Chain Tensioner
    By the pope in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 04-08-2004, 11:22 PM
  5. more mistaken 4-bar analysis
    By derby in forum Bike and Frame discussion
    Replies: 72
    Last Post: 03-11-2004, 04:20 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •