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  1. #1
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    DIY fixed cog / ala Boone

    Has anyone tried/had success drilling a Shimano DX/Novatech cog to match the holes of a disc mount to run fixed gear? Any tips? What about chainline?

  2. #2
    "Mr. Britannica"
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    Quote Originally Posted by qtip
    Has anyone tried/had success drilling a Shimano DX/Novatech cog to match the holes of a disc mount to run fixed gear? Any tips? What about chainline?
    Somebody can correct me, but I think someone here did that, and that is where Spicer or Boone got the idea.

  3. #3
    drev-il, not Dr. Evil!
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    If you haven't already seen it: http://www.63xc.com/jasom/milldisc.htm
    "Keep your burgers lean and your tires fat." -h.d. | bikecentric | ssoft

  4. #4
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    ahhhh

    Thanks. I knew I'd seen it before but I just couldn't remember where.

    I'm going to attempt to keep the disc rotor and fixed cog on the one side, and the freehub on the other. I think chainline could be worked out with the use of a standard geared freehub body. I'm concerned about clearance of the cog and disc rotor with frame/caliper, but I'll see how that works out. I know chain grease might cause a problem with the disc rotor, but if I carried a little cloth and some rubbing alcohol......

  5. #5
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    yep thats what i did on my bike ! a gusset spacer kit on one side. and a drilled out cog on the disc brake side




    i ditchedthe QR too

  6. #6
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    no brake

    so when you flip the flopper hub to your freehub side, do you just ride w/out a rear brake?

  7. #7
    drev-il, not Dr. Evil!
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    Quote Originally Posted by qtip
    so when you flip the flopper hub to your freehub side, do you just ride w/out a rear brake?
    I wouldn't. You're more prone to endos and death.
    "Keep your burgers lean and your tires fat." -h.d. | bikecentric | ssoft

  8. #8
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    I was thinking more along the lines of a climber gear on the freehub. Bike project I started this weekend....Bianchi BuSS frame, drop bars, 29er tires front/rear, front disc. I'd run 34/16 or 18 fixed, and then throw a 20T on the freehub side to climb long climbs, where a brake wouldn't be needed.

    Now for fixing that rear wheel. I had an impossible time removing the disc rotors off my hub. I couldn't get the torx bolts to loosen. Any tips?

    Another option....I've also got a non-disc freehub wheel and had a thought....what if a guy were to put a 24 tooth or so cog (that has holes in the cog body) at the inside of the freehub body and run small hose clamps throughto the spokes at the crossings near the hub shell....how soon would I rip the spokes up?

  9. #9
    drev-il, not Dr. Evil!
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    Quote Originally Posted by qtip
    I was thinking more along the lines of a climber gear on the freehub. Bike project I started this weekend....Bianchi BuSS frame, drop bars, 29er tires front/rear, front disc. I'd run 34/16 or 18 fixed, and then throw a 20T on the freehub side to climb long climbs, where a brake wouldn't be needed.

    Now for fixing that rear wheel. I had an impossible time removing the disc rotors off my hub. I couldn't get the torx bolts to loosen. Any tips?

    Another option....I've also got a non-disc freehub wheel and had a thought....what if a guy were to put a 24 tooth or so cog (that has holes in the cog body) at the inside of the freehub body and run small hose clamps throughto the spokes at the crossings near the hub shell....how soon would I rip the spokes up?
    I wouldn't. You're more prone to endos and death.










    What if you get to the top, you're riding that high, then you start to shoot downward? I guess if you're careful about that, you'll be ok. If not, wear a full face helmet and neck brace.

    It seems like a lot of trouble though. It's always been my experience that if I'm riding fixie off-road, going uphill is easier than going down. Why not just use fixie all the time for the ride? I'd vote for finding a fixed gear ratio you can do the ups with, then just stick with it. (BTW, I don't know your trails or conditions, so maybe you need the lower gear for the ups?)

    About the torx bolts, I usually use a torx bit in my cordless drill (which has a clutch) for putting on and removing them. If you are removing bolts, I guess careful use of an electric drill wouldn't hurt.
    "Keep your burgers lean and your tires fat." -h.d. | bikecentric | ssoft

  10. #10
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    question

    could you do this with a front disc hub, and just respace the 100mm to a 135? is that even possible?
    thanks
    JF2 Racing!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Like Bikes
    could you do this with a front disc hub, and just respace the 100mm to a 135? is that even possible?
    thanks
    If you can get an axle and spacers there's no reason you shouldn't be able to do it. Personally I dont want to ride fixed off-road and for on-road use it's a whole lot simpler to just get a normal fixed-gear hub.

  12. #12
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    thanks

    But i am cheap and what to conserve my money, because college is in 6 months, without a job i am screwed. I was thinking with my x-mas money I would buy a cheap disc rear cassette hub and use a surly fixxer? Or just JB weld it.

    I have bianchi sass and I want to ride fixie at college, so i am trying to think of ideas that would be cheap and relatively easy
    JF2 Racing!

  13. #13
    drev-il, not Dr. Evil!
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Like Bikes
    could you do this with a front disc hub, and just respace the 100mm to a 135? is that even possible?
    thanks
    Yes. Itsdoable has and documented it very well: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...94190#poststop
    "Keep your burgers lean and your tires fat." -h.d. | bikecentric | ssoft

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Like Bikes
    could you do this with a front disc hub, and just respace the 100mm to a 135? is that even possible?
    Quote Originally Posted by Drevil
    Yes. Itsdoable has and documented it very well: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...94190#poststop
    Update: My fixie wheel made from a front disc hub in the above link is still turning fine and working well. It looks like it'll hold up just fine (I was stripping the threads on fixie hubs before I switched). I used a 10mm shimano rear solid axle (~$10), just make sure the front hub you chose has a 10mm threaded axle so you can use the cones, or the hub uses the same size & number or ball bearings so you can use the cones from the shimano axle. The front hub I used was an Axiom labled item from a junk bin, lbs gave it to me for 5$.

    I've since put a Boone cog on it, mostly because I wanted to change ratios.

    Cheers,

    Tom.

  15. #15
    34N 118W
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    Boone vs. DX

    thanks Dr. E,

    I was planning on just going Boone for my disc-fixie project, but after seeing this I may give DX a go. *Slight* diff. in price and its for a kinda beater project anyways. I'll have to line up the chainline by sliding the hub back n forth on the axle w/gears and chain on, then locking everything down.

    HW

    Quote Originally Posted by Drevil
    If you haven't already seen it: http://www.63xc.com/jasom/milldisc.htm

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