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  1. #1
    Want to smell my chamois?
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    CX singlespeed for training/racing/coffee

    I want a cyclocross bike. I want to race some next year, and have a non-mountain bike for riding around the damned island on which I live. It will also see heavy training time, especially for long rides.

    I'm looking for componentry and frame suggestions. This beast will definitely start life as a singlespeed, and will most likely never be geared. I am attempting to put together a decent, raceable, long-lived rig for $1000.

    So far, my leanings in the frame department are:
    1. surly crosscheck...approx. $400 (including fork I think).
    2. Kona Jake the Snake ~$395 (fork included?).

    # I am also considering a Mountain Cycle Stumptown, though the frame and fork alone gobble up my desired budget. (~$899-989).

    I have a pair of battered Coda Expert cranks that should work just fine. They'll need a new chainring, though (FSA? Salsa?). An eccentric bb is needed, too, I think.

    Bar-wise, it's going to be a shootout between Salsa, FSA, and On-One I think.

    Brakes: Avid, Paul, ??? I am considering just running 'cross levers because I will be on the tops a lot, and won't have to pay for other brake levers. Suggestions here are MOST welcome.

    Pedals: the cheaper eggbeaters. Yay crank bros!

    Wheelset and tires: no freaking clue here. Nothing fancy, but I don't want 12 lb. wheels either.

    Any hints from those in the know will be much appreciated!

    Ruv, Evilbeaver

  2. #2
    blame me for missed rides
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    also look into on-one il pompino and iro rob roy as frame alternatives. if you go with jake the snake you'll need to use either a tensioner or a eno rear hub. crosscheck, il pompino and rob roy are all ss friendly.

    ebb requires a frame built to accomodate it. you can't use it.

    chainring: surly steel (32-36), regular road inner (39-42) or bmx rings.

    brakes: if you only use the top hand position there's no need to get a drop bar. so get yourself some road levers unless you are building it as a fixie. i'd get tektro/nashbar cantis instead of avid. same thing, only cheaper.

    wheelset: iro has built wheels, otherwise you can build your own. i'd go with surly hubs, ma3 or delgadox rims, 32 hole, 14/15ga dt spokes 3x.

  3. #3
    No Justice = No Peace
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    I see Onza HO brakes on ebay cheap. They are super adjustable and work like crazy. Makes wheels and so on a smaller issue. Bikeman.com has a CX section with economical brake levers and also chainrings and misc parts. I suggest wide bars with a wide spread at teh drops. Itried some Ritchey bars with a pretty much vertical drop, and because of the width, my wrists would smash against the top bend when I was riding in the drops.

    Use a lot of cork tape. CX bikes off road beat the crap out of your hands.
    "Welcome to my underground lair...."

  4. #4
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    I'm interested, too

    Post when you get it built.

  5. #5
    Steamroller
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    check out a Rob Roy

    IRO's new SS cross bike. it's nice and inexpensive.
    Two Wheeled and Too Big

  6. #6
    Where's Toto?
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    I just picked up a new Pompino frame and fork on eBay for $265. Guy had more frames and multiple frame sizes - keep an eye out.


    I raced on a Spot SS Crosser last year. I decided to sell it - been kickin myself ever since. I bought the Pomp with the intentions of eventually sending it to Steve Bilenky to have S&S couplings installed and making it my travel bike.I couldn't do it to the Spot as it had a flattened downtube shape. I thought about the C-check, but when I saw the Pomp on eBay, I jumped at it for the $$$.

    ---
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    Last edited by endure26; 07-24-2005 at 04:45 AM.

  7. #7
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    cross check

    Quote Originally Posted by evilbeaver
    I want a cyclocross bike. I want to race some next year, and have a non-mountain bike for riding around the damned island on which I live. It will also see heavy training time, especially for long rides.

    I'm looking for componentry and frame suggestions. This beast will definitely start life as a singlespeed, and will most likely never be geared. I am attempting to put together a decent, raceable, long-lived rig for $1000.

    So far, my leanings in the frame department are:
    1. surly crosscheck...approx. $400 (including fork I think).
    2. Kona Jake the Snake ~$395 (fork included?).

    # I am also considering a Mountain Cycle Stumptown, though the frame and fork alone gobble up my desired budget. (~$899-989).

    I have a pair of battered Coda Expert cranks that should work just fine. They'll need a new chainring, though (FSA? Salsa?). An eccentric bb is needed, too, I think.

    Bar-wise, it's going to be a shootout between Salsa, FSA, and On-One I think.

    Brakes: Avid, Paul, ??? I am considering just running 'cross levers because I will be on the tops a lot, and won't have to pay for other brake levers. Suggestions here are MOST welcome.

    Pedals: the cheaper eggbeaters. Yay crank bros!

    Wheelset and tires: no freaking clue here. Nothing fancy, but I don't want 12 lb. wheels either.

    Any hints from those in the know will be much appreciated!

    Ruv, Evilbeaver
    I suggest the cross check, I've had mine and raced it for about 3or 4 years now. paul brakes are spendy, but once you have them set up right you might be able to forget that you paid about $80 each for them, I also have used some of the old shimano slr canti's and they work good also, little harder to set up but I've not had any trouble with it. Wheels I have MA3 rims laced to a rear surly hub and a front LX hub, you will need to service the lx hub occasionally, but it is easy to clean and add grease to, the salsa cross rim I hear is also good and cheap. Also check the MTBR or RBR classifieds for a decent compleate cross check, I've seen many good deals. GEaring, if you are running a road crank, I would suggest a 39by 18 gear, and put a 17 or 16 tooth on the flip side, Fixed or FW, surly rears come as Free free or fixed free. The 17 or 16 will be good for cruising on the street, the 18 for trail riding or cross racing. You will not need to shorten the chain to go from a 18 to a 16, just move the wheel forward or back. I also suggest you try a good road bar like a salsa bell lap bar, or the cheaper slightly heavyer motoace version with regular road levers, I think you might be surprised how nice it is, and having the hoods to hold onto is nice.
    good luck

  8. #8
    Cracker-magnon
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    Quote Originally Posted by single1x1
    I suggest the cross check
    Ummm yeah, what he said sorta....

    "Life is a F@#^ing story problem, get used to it - my son.

  9. #9
    Squalor
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpsser
    Ummm yeah, what he said sorta....
    Ditto...again

    If I could have only one bike...
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  10. #10
    Want to smell my chamois?
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    great suggestions

    Wow! Thanks for all of the advice (and delicious bike pictures). Those crosschecks are more or less what I had in my head for what I want my bike to resemble. I will definitely post a picture of it once it's built.

    The Kona is no longer on my frame short list. I am going to investigate the IRO and On-One frames. Variety is good! Value per dollar is good too.

    The gearing suggestions sound pretty good. I am already very comfortable climbing in those gears, or approximations thereof. The Surly hub idea is something I had not yet considered. I like the flipflop idea, though I would probably go free/free as I don't have a pathological need to ride a fixie (as of yet).

    Anyway, if it's not already blatantly obvious, I am essentially a ss virgin. I've ridden ss fanatic friends' machines, and enjoyed them thoroughly, but to this point I've poured all my attention (and $$$) into my xc rig. It's time to expand the stable. I am also a little tired of *****ing about my dual control levers.

    Thanks again for the help. I will continue to post questions as they come up. If you have an idea for me, please throw it down!

  11. #11
    SS Clyde 29er
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    So far, my leanings in the frame department are:
    1. surly crosscheck...approx. $400 (including fork I think).
    2. Kona Jake the Snake ~$395 (fork included?).

    go 1-smooth ride, great deal, and if you like wide tires for mtb like cross courses or maybe wanna try ur CX bike off road, u can mount 44mm MutanoRaptor tires on this puppy.
    w 2-more of a refined CX racing bike but limits your options: need a tensioner for SS and can mabybe only go up to a 35mm tire, plus its an aluminum frame, so a bit harsher of a ride if you are not riding on grass.


    # I am also considering a Mountain Cycle Stumptown, though the frame and fork alone gobble up my desired budget. (~$899-989).

    Yeaa...super sweet frame, again more of a CX thoroughbreed, and that rear seat stay configuration is very smoov...it actually flexed and absorbs bumps maybe better than a steel frame! this is a relatively new design tho, so i dont know how long that flexy aluminum rear seat stay configuration is going to last if someone w a 220lb ass like mine rides the hell outta it.

    I have a pair of battered Coda Expert cranks that should work just fine. They'll need a new chainring, though (FSA? Salsa?). An eccentric bb is needed, too, I think.

    Salsa is nice, go with what ever you have access to, just make sure you run an 8 speed chain. 9/10 speed chain are too weak, and BMX chains tend to have too much play (too wide) and like to jump off when you are at high RPMs

    Bar-wise, it's going to be a shootout between Salsa, FSA, and On-One I think.

    I like wide 40+ type bars, so the Salsa Bell Lap or my most recent love..pause..the ...im blushing...ON ONE MIDGE Bars ( http://www.on-one.co.uk/products/midge.shtml) are the best thing since slicing the tires of ur opponents. these bars are my absolute favorite, so if you like drop bars, but dont want to tweek out ur lower back using them, thse are the way to go.

    Brakes: Avid, Paul, ??? I am considering just running 'cross levers because I will be on the tops a lot, and won't have to pay for other brake levers. Suggestions here are MOST welcome.

    well..i have Pauls, yeaa they are nice bling type brakes but, really now folks, if ur gonna race cross and be concerned about stopping...you arent approaching it w the right attitude. besides when its wet and muddy, they are kinda almost useless anyway. but okay..most any break that is well mounted and has decent pads will work fine if you want the low down. if ur gonna obcess about anything in the break dept...get some of the Salsa Cable Hangers, these are way wider than most and will make a difference when it comes to breaking if you are running cantilever brakes (allows for the use of road leavers as well, http://www.salsacycles.com/comps_brakes.html)

    cross levers are fine too..esp if you need to be in the straights of your bars (if u have conventional drop bars) while descending and dont want to strip out your stem due to too much weight being on your break hoods. this is a real issue if you are a bigger/heavier person (im 220lbs) because more than likely ur not running a jumbo down hill type stem on your cross bike.


    Pedals: the cheaper eggbeaters. Yay crank bros!

    cant go wrong here, egg beaters are taking over the coss scene anyway, ohh yeaa guess whos sponsoring the the US Grand Prix of CX this year ...http://www.usgpcyclocross.com/

    Wheelset and tires: no freaking clue here. Nothing fancy, but I don't want 12 lb. wheels either.

    again Salsa Delgado are mighty fine, not the lightest but damn near bomb proof, i ride a pair that i have on a 29er MTB

    Any hints from those in the know will be much appreciated!

    try to figure tire size based on your weight, riding style, and the course. figure anyting form 28mm if ur fast, light, and on a fairly dry course to ur a big boi, muddy course w lots of rough spots maybe a 38mm tire. anyway there u go!

    Ruv, Evilbeaver[/QUOTE]

  12. #12
    Boe
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  13. #13
    Candlestick Maker
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    I have a cross check that I really like and have set it up many different ways. Fixed, free, geared, flat bars, drop bars, mary bars, skinny tires, fat tires, etc. Oh yeah, I ran the Bell Laps, and they were ok. I put some Nitto Noodles on the bike and like them much better.

    The bike is very versatile and I'd recommend it for your described uses. I've used mine as a commuter, for centuries (both fixed and geared), light off-roading, w/ a rack, without a rack,etc. The bike can be set up jus about anyway you want. The bike is not light, but can certainly take a beating and rides nicely.

    Below is a pic of the bike. It is currently built up with:

    Phil Wood front hub, FiR rim
    White Industries rear hub, FiR rim
    Old Sakae cranks w/ Salsa ring
    Shimano UN7x bottom bracket
    On One Mary Bars
    Paul Love Levers
    SRAM 8 spd grip shifters
    Precision Billet rear derailleur
    Shimano 600 front derailleur
    700x44 Mutanos
    Titec titanium seatpost
    Brooks B17 saddle
    Ritchey headset
    Airborne carbon fiber cyclocross fork
    Steel tubed bike rack
    Koski v-brakes
    Eggbeaters

    baker
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    Last edited by baker; 07-25-2005 at 10:44 AM.

  14. #14
    Want to smell my chamois?
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    more cx fun notes

    Quote Originally Posted by fire horse
    So far, my leanings in the frame department are:
    1. surly crosscheck...approx. $400 (including fork I think).
    2. Kona Jake the Snake ~$395 (fork included?).

    [COLOR=Blue]go 1-smooth ride, great deal, and if you like wide tires for mtb like cross courses or maybe wanna try ur CX bike off road, u can mount 44mm MutanoRaptor tires on this puppy.

    etc. good stuff!
    Man, the hits just keep coming. I love it!

    I have decided that the Coda Expert cranks will only be used if I cannot find a good, affordable replacement for them. I rock XTRs on the cross country bike (well worth the three months of living off of cheap cheese and potato flakes subsequent to their purchase) and forgot how much the Codas suck. I am 5'10", 160 lbs. and the Coda cranks flex under my meager power.

    I have a notepad next to my computer with SS notes scribbled all over it. I have "USE THE RIGHT CHAIN" written in two inch letters underlined in red. Eight speed chain noted!

    My next mission is to seek out an example of the Midge and Bell-Lap (and/or Motoace) bars for a fit test. I am afraid my beautiful Whidbey Island in the Puget Sound will probably not afford such opportunities, so I will look farther afield.

    "not the lightest but damn near bomb proof" = perfect wheels for me! I won't be racing on the pro circuit in Belgium any time soon.

    My concerns about braking power stem from the fact that this rig will see duty as my primary mode of transportation in crap weather. I don't want to get doored when I'm snaking through Seattle.

  15. #15
    34N 118W
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    breaks

    that's what happens to the Onzas.

    I picked up 2 pr. off ebay for my cruiser. The last time I did some work on it I noticed that all 4 arms were cracked. All 4.

    a better bet is to find some inexpensive Chimano cantis.

    also, have you looked into the Redline built up CX bikes? Conquest & Conquest Pro.
    http://www.redlinebicycles.com/modul...s/conquest.htm

    good luck
    HW


    Quote Originally Posted by Lutarious
    I see Onza HO brakes on ebay cheap. They are super adjustable and work like crazy.
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  16. #16
    try driving your car less
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    another happy crosscheck owner here. set up geared now for commuting and i did a triathlon on saturday and got 4th in the bike. i dont think i would have done any better on a 'real road bike'.
    i got mine used on the RBR classifieds, great bike.
    as an alternative if you want something 'cool', look for an old cross bike on ebay with the semi-horizontal dropouts. they come up, old bianchis and pinarellos.
    Only boring people get bored.

  17. #17
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    LOVE my Il Pompino.




  18. #18
    blame me for missed rides
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    for CX i strongly recommend Soma's "thick and zesty" tapes. extra long and extra thick. double tape it (or get some bar gel/dampers) and it's gonna be more comfortable than oury grips.

  19. #19
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    love mine:






    i like the color

    i have built up also a black Crosscheck, very nice Bike

    take The Crosscheck

  20. #20
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    a pink one


  21. #21
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    Spot

    For that kind of scratch, you could almost buy my barely used Spot SS cross bike.

    http://classifieds.mtbr.com/cgi-bin/...uery=retrieval

    Barely used, upgraded to Race Face cranks since the ad was posted and I will post a pic later tonight.

    I am selling the entire bike for what a new frame and fork retails for. The cross check is a great bike, lots of gearing options, but the Spot is a hand built in Canada frame, lightweight, and super high quality.
    Thanks to www.weavercycleworks.com for my awesome bike frames!

  22. #22
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    one more vote for the Surly

    It is fer sher my "desert island" bike. I've ridden it on tough singletrack, racked it up and rode 250 miles in one day on it. taken it down to the local for a few pints, commuted on it, and it takes impact with cars quite nicely... I'll be racing it this winter, and I can't wait. Best bike money I ever spent. Good luck with whatever you go with...
    Last edited by veloyaj; 07-25-2005 at 09:07 PM.

  23. #23
    semi-evolved simian
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    Quote Originally Posted by veloyaj
    It is fer sher my "desert island" bike. I've ridden it on tough singletrack, racked it up and rode 250 miles in one day on it. taken it down to the local for a few pints, commuted on it, and it takes impact with cars quite nicely... I'll be racing it this winter, and I can't wait. Best bike money I ever spent. Good luck with whatever you go with...
    Hey Jason, you gonna be racing her in the Seattle Metro 'cross series ?

    I'm going to vote for the Crosscheck too, total versatility, nice riding bike. Here's mine, currently fixed.
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  24. #24
    Want to smell my chamois?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mine'sAPint
    Hey Jason, you gonna be racing her in the Seattle Metro 'cross series ?

    I'm going to vote for the Crosscheck too, total versatility, nice riding bike. Here's mine, currently fixed.

    Nice rigs, one and all to be sure. I am definitely leaning 98% in the Crosscheck direction.
    I have seen the Redlines, but part of my drive to put something together is that I never have. This bike is going to hopefully teach me some things I want to know about putting (and keeping) a rig together.

    Shopping List (tentative):

    Crosscheck frame.
    On-One Midge or Salsa Bell-lap/Motoace bars.
    **advice re: gel tape noted. Twice.
    Old shimano cantis or Pauls...or hell, tektro.
    Levers...road...to be decided.
    Cross levers...probably salsa.
    Low-bling eggbeaters.
    Wheels: surly rear (or both?), or lx/xt laced with delgados...who knows...I know very little on this subject so need more investigation. MTB wheels I am comfortable with...

    Anyone have suggetion on a crank? I hate the codas I have buried in the garage. They bend when you look at them funny.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by evilbeaver
    Anyone have suggetion on a crank? I hate the codas I have buried in the garage. They bend when you look at them funny.
    You can't go wrong with Sugino XD300 cranks like these
    XD300. They are resonably priced and plenty strong enough. I have them on my SS as does Matt Chester

  26. #26
    blame me for missed rides
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    ditto on the xd300's. cold forged arms==woot.

  27. #27
    try driving your car less
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    Quote Originally Posted by evilbeaver

    Salsa Bell-lap/Motoace bars.
    lots of people love these. i tried some and didnt find them all that. i didnt notice the difference between salsas and other wide drop bars, the outwards flare was minimal. but that's just me.
    Only boring people get bored.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by lanpope
    Ditto...again

    If I could have only one bike...
    Oh man that is t!ts. I like those bars, I need those bars. What breed are they? General Q, anyone have experience with Mungo bars? Care to comment?

    TIA
    Tuff Schist

  29. #29
    semi-evolved simian
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    You can't go wrong with a set of Shimano cantis, I got a set of LX of ebay.
    For levers check out these Cane Creek ones, nice wide hoods make them super comfy, plus they look cool.

    I built my own wheels, Surly flip/flop rear, Shimano 105 front laced to Alex DA28 rims. Very happy with how they turned out.


    Quote Originally Posted by evilbeaver
    Nice rigs, one and all to be sure. I am definitely leaning 98% in the Crosscheck direction.
    I have seen the Redlines, but part of my drive to put something together is that I never have. This bike is going to hopefully teach me some things I want to know about putting (and keeping) a rig together.

    Shopping List (tentative):

    Crosscheck frame.
    On-One Midge or Salsa Bell-lap/Motoace bars.
    **advice re: gel tape noted. Twice.
    Old shimano cantis or Pauls...or hell, tektro.
    Levers...road...to be decided.
    Cross levers...probably salsa.
    Low-bling eggbeaters.
    Wheels: surly rear (or both?), or lx/xt laced with delgados...who knows...I know very little on this subject so need more investigation. MTB wheels I am comfortable with...

    Anyone have suggetion on a crank? I hate the codas I have buried in the garage. They bend when you look at them funny.

  30. #30
    "Mr. Britannica"
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudInMyEars
    You can't go wrong with Sugino XD300 cranks like these
    XD300. They are resonably priced and plenty strong enough. I have them on my SS as does Matt Chester
    Sugino makes nice stuff. If you can still find 'em, I'd vote for old school Ritchey 110 BCD double cranks... no unused granny holes. Also another vote for a Cross Check.
    <img src="http://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/small2(1).jpg">

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meat Foot
    Oh man that is t!ts. I like those bars, I need those bars. What breed are they? General Q, anyone have experience with Mungo bars? Care to comment?

    TIA
    Those are just plain Nitto moustache bars...the bike is setup differently now...gears...FAT slicks...DT shifters....still the same bars though.

    It seems almost mandatory to change the setup on a CrossCheck every few months! Your mind gets winding and you think..."I KNOW...I could run two chainrings, two freewheels, put on a rack, then strap another wheel to the rack with two fixed cogs...now THAT would be perfect..."

    Great bikes

    LP

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by lanpope
    Those are just plain Nitto moustache bars...the bike is setup differently now...gears...FAT slicks...DT shifters....still the same bars though.

    It seems almost mandatory to change the setup on a CrossCheck every few months! Your mind gets winding and you think..."I KNOW...I could run two chainrings, two freewheels, put on a rack, then strap another wheel to the rack with two fixed cogs...now THAT would be perfect..."

    Great bikes

    LP
    Well, now that you say shifters, what are folks prefs for shifter location? Seems like when the path gets weird, if they are on the DT, shifitng on the rough surfaces may induce some rider hucking. Also, what is the availability of 8 speed stuff? I stopped road biking when 6 speed was the "thing" and cassettes were things with music on them. There was SIS but it was "new" . Anyways, just curious, and thanks for the info on the Nittos, I have eyed those before.
    Tuff Schist

  33. #33
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    Good job! octalink ultegra cranks

    Quote Originally Posted by evilbeaver
    Nice rigs, one and all to be sure. I am definitely leaning 98% in the Crosscheck direction.
    I have seen the Redlines, but part of my drive to put something together is that I never have. This bike is going to hopefully teach me some things I want to know about putting (and keeping) a rig together.

    Shopping List (tentative):

    Crosscheck frame.
    On-One Midge or Salsa Bell-lap/Motoace bars.
    **advice re: gel tape noted. Twice.
    Old shimano cantis or Pauls...or hell, tektro.
    Levers...road...to be decided.
    Cross levers...probably salsa.
    Low-bling eggbeaters.
    Wheels: surly rear (or both?), or lx/xt laced with delgados...who knows...I know very little on this subject so need more investigation. MTB wheels I am comfortable with...

    Anyone have suggetion on a crank? I hate the codas I have buried in the garage. They bend when you look at them funny.
    I run a pair of shimano octalink cranks on my cross check and also on my curtlo geared cross bike, have had no problems and the bb seems to be pretty durable. The ultegra or 105 octalink cranks should be available pretty cheap, since the new 2 piece ultegras are out, definitly get a ultegra double bb to go with it, the dura ace is a little lighter and might be found used for a reasonable price, still go with a ultegra bb, the dura ace bb don't last very well, as I have heard from a local bike shop owner. I also have used an older pair of 105 cranks with a square taper bb and had no problems with that set up either

  34. #34
    Squalor
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meat Foot
    Well, now that you say shifters, what are folks prefs for shifter location? Seems like when the path gets weird, if they are on the DT, shifitng on the rough surfaces may induce some rider hucking. Also, what is the availability of 8 speed stuff? I stopped road biking when 6 speed was the "thing" and cassettes were things with music on them. There was SIS but it was "new" . Anyways, just curious, and thanks for the info on the Nittos, I have eyed those before.
    Well - i guess the shifter talk is a little off topic but what the hey...

    I have run them all...DT...bar end...STI...my favorite BY FAR is the bar end. The STIs are too fragile for real dirt...with the DT I do not shift much, I pretty much just ride it like a ss on the trail, but then I have gears to use on the road ride home or if things get real open on the trail (the DT shifters are old and friction BTW but they work fine). The 9sp indexed bar end DA shifters are my favorite. I actually run them on the paul thumbies on my geared 29er. They are just perfect. As soon as I get the chance and inclination the CrossCheck will have them again too.

    SS is fun, but it is not the best if you ride to the trail...

    Good Luck
    LP

  35. #35
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    Kona sutra, as well (+ my convert)

    Kona makes the Sutra (with sliding, disc dropouts) as well. Pretty sweet bike, but a sloping top tube, so if you go hardcore 'cross, you might not want that. Someone on the 29er board recently posted about one.
    If you have got an old MTB frame, you might be able to convert yours like I did my old Manitou HT. All I needed was an Onza HOLA rear brake (for adjustment from 26 - 700, an ENO hub and a fork, Cost me about $225 for the whole thing). I love this bike.
    -Sean
    Attached Images Attached Images

  36. #36
    pepito
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    crosscheck here. current setup is: on-one midge bar, tektro cantis, shimano indexed barcon shifters (love them), and gears. fall setup will see me either singling it out or going single chaingring (double right now), and trying to shed some other weight in hopes of attempting a few 'cross races.

    the_dude
    "Melancholy is incompatible with bicycling" ~James E. Starrs

  37. #37
    brother on a mission
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean350
    Kona makes the Sutra (with sliding, disc dropouts) as well. Pretty sweet bike, but a sloping top tube, so if you go hardcore 'cross, you might not want that. Someone on the 29er board recently posted about one.
    If you have got an old MTB frame, you might be able to convert yours like I did my old Manitou HT. All I needed was an Onza HOLA rear brake (for adjustment from 26 - 700, an ENO hub and a fork, Cost me about $225 for the whole thing). I love this bike.
    -Sean
    Hello Sean. I am VERY curious about the Onza brakes you refer to. I have an older MTB frame I am converting to a cross bike, and I was going to have to go with 16" wheels, but I like the tire options better for 700cm hoops

    Thanks,

    GF

  38. #38
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    Onza HOLA brakes

    Quote Originally Posted by Greenfix
    Hello Sean. I am VERY curious about the Onza brakes you refer to. I have an older MTB frame I am converting to a cross bike, and I was going to have to go with 16" wheels, but I like the tire options better for 700cm hoops

    Thanks,

    GF
    GF, the brake on the rear is an Onza HOLA v-brake. The arms are long enough to put them on a 26" frame and put a 700c wheel and get decent power. They show up on ebay from time to time, and I got mine for $12. If you don't want to search, you could just buy a Paul's adjustable v-brake, although they're pricey. When you use a v-brake with the brake pad that high up on the arm, you end up using a short-pull brake lever (such as a regular road brake lever, or cantilever (short-pull) mtb levers). Good luck in converting!
    -Sean

  39. #39
    Fahrrad fahren
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    Quickbeam

    Just slightly above your price point at $1300 for a complete bike, but I LOVE my new Rivendell Quickbeam. I got it just before Father's Day, and haven't ridden any other bike since.

    <img src="http://home.att.net/~empathytest/images/quickbeam.jpg">

  40. #40
    Want to smell my chamois?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hjalti
    Just slightly above your price point at $1300 for a complete bike, but I LOVE my new Rivendell Quickbeam. I got it just before Father's Day, and haven't ridden any other bike since.

    <img src="http://home.att.net/~empathytest/images/quickbeam.jpg">
    Those Rivendells are pretty machines. If I lived in an urban area where riding to the bar or coffee shed wouldn't subject me to constant ditch-diving at the hands of redneck H2 drivers, I'd love to own one.

    My purposes, however, dictate the need for a dirtier, meaner, less-refined steed.

    It looks like the Crosscheck should be the beast for me. My eyes are peeled for deals, but if I have to pay retail, my ducats will flow in the Surly direction.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by singlestoph
    a pink one

    an other pic
    Last edited by singlestoph; 07-28-2005 at 10:48 AM.

  42. #42
    brother on a mission
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean350
    GF, the brake on the rear is an Onza HOLA v-brake. The arms are long enough to put them on a 26" frame and put a 700c wheel and get decent power. They show up on ebay from time to time, and I got mine for $12. If you don't want to search, you could just buy a Paul's adjustable v-brake, although they're pricey. When you use a v-brake with the brake pad that high up on the arm, you end up using a short-pull brake lever (such as a regular road brake lever, or cantilever (short-pull) mtb levers). Good luck in converting!
    -Sean
    thanks for the information.

    The Onza sounds exactly like what I am looking for. I have the required brake levers, so now I just have to find the Onzas. I have contemplated the pauls for a while now, but I am trying to avoid a big $$ purchase as this bike will be my beater, rain commuter, dirt road, and perhaps a CX race or two bike. If I get it converted there will be a post detailing the conversion. Thanks again,

    GF

  43. #43
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    corner sliding

    kind of a thread hijack. But I would like to know how any of youze get your cc bikes to reliably slide in corners. I wash the front end too much. Seems like a typical CC setup puts the rider too far over the front end to make corner sliding a second-nature thing.

    I can slide my mtb fine because(?) i am more upright on it.

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