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Thread: creaky Ti SS

  1. #1
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    We the people ... creaky Ti SS

    I have a creak that is killing me. Its probably not a SS specific creak but i am running sliders so it might be. If anyone has had a similar issue and has resolved it please give me some advice before I go mad.

    Bike: Carver Gnarvester running single speed with Carver ridged fork

    The creak: Well its more of a ticking really that happens when I pedal out of the saddle. It ticks once or twice for every pedal stroke and seems slightly worse on the non-driveside strokes. It sounds like it is coming from the down tube but I know that does not mean that is where it is happening. When I pedal seated it goes away. As soon as I take my bum off the seat it appears, whether I am cranking or just pedalling at the same pace and power as when I was sitting. I cant get it to happen when seated no matter how hard I pedal. When out of the saddle it only ticks when pedalling - if I rock from side to side like I am riding hard it does not click but as soon as I pedal it does.

    What I have tried:
    * Taking the seat post out
    * changing wheel set
    * changing pedals
    * relube everything especialy BB
    * reseat headset
    * replace slider bolts with Paragon Ti
    * tried everything with the sliders from lubing/unlubing/making rubber spacer from inner tube etc
    * Try geared and ungeared
    * check spoke tension

    So far nothing has worked. I love this bike but would love it more if it wads quiet when riding hard or climbing.

    Any suggestions grateful accepted!


  2. #2
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    disc brakes? My Front fork flex and disc rotor make some nose when out of the saddle....

  3. #3
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    Thanks ladljon. I didn't think of that but did swap my Avids for XT recently and it's still there.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty_ss View Post
    Thanks ladljon. I didn't think of that but did swap my Avids for XT recently and it's still there.
    Chainring bolts
    Bar/stem bolts

  5. #5
    Ahhh the pain....
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    new chain?
    tighten cog on freehub?
    be sure mating surfaces of headset all have lube on them...I once cleaned all that stuff up really well, reassembled it and damn, it creaked like crazy.
    Also, be sure you seat the rear wheel in the dropouts (not with chain tensioned and influencing it) and tighten the QR. I can make mine creak but moving the wheel in the dropouts slightly.
    Oh, check wheel/freehub bearings too.
    Your limits are both physical and mental. Suffering will help you find and overcome both.
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  6. #6
    Got a suspension fork
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    The fact that you notice it more on the NDS makes me think Botton Bracket.

    Pop the rear wheel off and remove the chain from your COG, put the rear wheel back in, and take the chain so it isn't on the chainring at all. Hold the top tube firmly with the palm of your hand, with your other hand spin the crank around and around.

    Feel anything coming from the BB?
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  7. #7
    Big Test Icycles
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    creaky Ti SS

    I just had a similar issue. It was a loose chainring bolt. I'd focus on the BB, crank arm and rings. What pedals do you have? Are they serviceable?

  8. #8
    1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
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    can be very frustrating....I have a tiny creak in my bike still not sure what from. I checked frame for cracks, thankfully none....mine is mainly out of saddle too. Luckily it's quiet enough to forget about most of the time. A friend told me Ti frames creak a little but can't see why. I think carver are made by xacd? Probably similar hardware. I don't think ti bolts will give you more pressure on the sliders, rather hi tensile steel would be more reliable cranked down hard. I use a washer as well to increase surface area which may help. Will be interested if you discover the culprit. What kind of BB do you use?

  9. #9
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    Re: creaky Ti SS

    Feel your frustration in creak chasing. Know you changed pedals, but they've been the cause of my more difficult cases. Besides greasing the pedal / crankarm threads, disassemble the pedal to add grease to the spindle. Also, if clipless, check that the springs are lubed, and that the shoe cleats are tight.

    Then as others have said, check BB, and chainring bolts.
    The best is the one you want to ride most often..

  10. #10
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    Here is a pretty good site that details common causes of noisy bikes. Bicycle Bike Noises, Clicks, Ticks, Creaks, Clunks, Knocks Repair by Jim Langley

    I've had a tick like you mention on my CX bike. The front rotor would touch the washers for the front caliper and make a tick noise. Only happened when pedaling out of the saddle.

  11. #11
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    one more thing to check on the Gnarvester: The bolt that holds the drive side chainstay together. Some people don't even know it's there, but the bolt allows the chainstay to come apart to run a belt drive. It's accessed from the back of the chainstay. Also, as someone else mentioned, make sure the headset bearings and surfaces are all well greased.

  12. #12
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    Besides relubing, everything should be tightened properly. I didn't see anyone mention it so I thought I'd point it out, even though it is a very obvious thing. Perhaps that's why it's often easily overlooked.

  13. #13
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    my most frequent creaks are pedals (need to be rebuilt) and seatpost (needs cleaning/lubing).

    another creak was the handlebar itself. a wtb dropbar with an aluminum sleeve which had come loose, had to be replaced.

  14. #14
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    oops.

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the tips everyone. I spent the day yesterday working my way through the list. The good news is I now have the best lubed bike in the southern hemisphere. The bad news is it still ticks.

    I have narrowed it down in my mind to be coming from the headset (i think). Pretty sure it's not the bb as I can now replicate it by leaning the bike over and pressing on the bb with my foot (whether the bb is installed or not). When I do make it click I can feel it strongest in the bottom of the headtube. I've checked for cracks but can't see anything. When I got the frame the LBS had some trouble getting the headset in due to the headtube being sliggtly ovalised from welding. Forrest Carver told me that was normal and should not be a problem. The headset seems to be seated completely and I saw them install it with lots of grease. I recon it is what is causing the creak though. Does not help much as I am stumped about what to do with it now......

  16. #16
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    It's a Chris King headset by the way. Again any suggestions welcomed!

  17. #17
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    creaky Ti SS

    Fancy headsets are more likely to make noise. Replace the chain first.

  18. #18
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    Hi all

    thanks again for the suggestions. I am now certain that the issue is with the headset/headtube interface possibly due to the slight ovalisation of the head tube. The reason I think that is the case (apart from the fact I had tried everything else suggested here) was that I pulled out the headset, regreased it and pressed it back in and low and behold the sound was completely gone. For the first time since I have had the bike. For the first half of the ride. Then it slowly came back

    I am going to start a new thread in the tool time forum to get some advice on on to deal with it as it is clearly not a single speed only issue but thanks again for all the advice!

  19. #19
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    Might also be that your head tube needs to be refaced.

  20. #20
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    Thanks Solo-x. I did think about that but no shops near me can do it on a titanium frame apparently.

  21. #21
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    I have one of the early Gnarvesters, and the bottom bracket threads weren't very clean. It was pretty noisy until I faced and chased the bb, and since then it's been quiet. I have a friend with the same frame that had creaking issues. After trying a number of solutions he wasn't able to get it resolved and ended up getting rid of the frame.

  22. #22
    get down!
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    Not the first Gnarvester I've heard of with a creaking problem. Hope you get it figured out!
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  23. #23
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    Hi All,

    Sorry for the long delay in showing up, here! And thanks to Tim for directing me to these topics. First thing's first...frame creaks are like roof leaks. Extremely annoying, and difficult to locate the source of. I have personally debuilt and rebuilt a bike four times in a row only to find out that the creak was coming from my $20 clipless pedals...

    We have had several reports of creaky Gnarvesters, and so far one of three solutions has worked in all but one case.

    1.) Are you using a CINCH crank with a sleeve?
    This is historically the number one source of creaks. Fully tightening a 30mm spindle bottom bracket into one of our frames with the sleeve installed will create a small lip on the sleeve, which binds against the inside of the bottom bracket shell and prevents it from turning smoothly. The bind only occurs in the last bit of torque, so not fully tightening the bottom bracket will eliminate the bind while simultaneously causing a creak due to improper cup tightness. If you're using a 24mm spindle crank, this is probably not the issue. If you are using a 30mm spindle, remove the sleeve and reinstall the bottom bracket. Removing the spindle sleeve has worked on (5) of (11) reports.

    2.) Have you checked your belt drive coupling?
    There's a good chance that you didn't even know you had this! It's a bolt which connects the drive side dropout to the chain stay. Removing the bolt allows you to install a belt on the frame for SS or IGH use. We torque these bolts properly before shipping, but it's not impossible for the bolt to loosen up over time. If you aren't using the belt drive capability, using Loctite on the bolt is not a bad idea. Oh, and grease the mating surfaces of course! Checking/greasing/retorquing the belt drive coupling has worked on (3) of (11) reports.

    3.) Are you using a Thomson seatpost?
    Our seat tubes sometimes come in slightly more teardrop-shaped than round, and due to the corduroy texture of a Thomson post this combination can create an annoying tick noise.* Bolt-on seatpost clamps usually solve the issue, and copper anti-seize helps as well. If you're still having an issue, contact me (forrest@bikeman.com). Swapping to a non-Thomson seatpost has worked on (2) of (11) reports.

    Bottom line: don't give up! We did have one customer send their frame back after a year of use, citing a perpetual creak that no one could get rid of. After re-tightening the sliding dropout bolt, the creak disappeared and that frame is now a well-used part of our demo fleet...

    * We are also a retail and online store, and have sold 500+ Thomson posts over decades. It is probably the best aluminum post on the market, and does not have any issues in and of itself. The source of the problem is the seat tube, not the post itself.

  24. #24
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    Thanks for the reply, Bear. I forgot to mention that I had replaced my drive coupling bolt with a socket head cap bolt from a brake. I felt like the button head bolt that comes installed on the frame would round out with not a very large amount of torque applied. Now it's secure and I can re-torque when/if needed without worry.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbmxer View Post
    Thanks for the reply, Bear. I forgot to mention that I had replaced my drive coupling bolt with a socket head cap bolt from a brake. I felt like the button head bolt that comes installed on the frame would round out with not a very large amount of torque applied. Now it's secure and I can re-torque when/if needed without worry.
    Ah, thanks for reminding me!

    The frames came in from the factory with lower-quality button-head bolts, and some of them were already partially rounded out. We caught on to the problem pretty quickly and have since replaced all the bolts before shipping. However, a handful of frames went out before we wised up to those bolts. To my knowledge, we have contacted all customers who may have crappy bolts, but a missed one isn't out of the question. Just to be safe, take a look in your coupling. If the bolt is a socket-style shiny stainless bolt, you're in the clear (although it NEVER hurts to regrease, retorque, etc!) If the bolt is a button style and matte silver, it's best to replace it. The replacement bolt should be a Stainless M6 x 20 Socket Style bolt. These are readily available at a hardware store for a quarter, although we're happy to send you one for free if you prefer (forrest@bikeman.com.)

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