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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spinning Lizard View Post
    I personally use DT 240's, but I do not want any POE over 36, too much drag for what I need. ( I have had all the before mentioned hubs and none of them roll like the 240 IMO)
    The friction in your hub, if adjusted correctly, is completely insignificant in relation overall speed.
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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZXFT View Post
    The friction in your hub, if adjusted correctly, is completely insignificant in relation overall speed.
    Have to disagree, it may not be very significant to you, but when the top 10 spots in the race are decided by less then 30 seconds over a 2hr race, then it becomes a tad bit more significant. Also the weight plays a role in the equation for me.

    If I was not a weight weenie racer I would ride the Project 321's.

    I will agree the POE has no bearing at all while climbing or pedaling, but I make up most of my time during a race on the DH sections of the course where the POE does slow the wheel down on a very small scale, losing a couple of seconds in a 2hr race for me is not worth it. Again just my personal opinion.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spinning Lizard View Post
    Have to disagree, it may not be very significant to you, but when the top 10 spots in the race are decided by less then 30 seconds over a 2hr race, then it becomes a tad bit more significant. Also the weight plays a role in the equation for me.

    If I was not a weight weenie racer I would ride the Project 321's.

    I will agree the POE has no bearing at all while climbing or pedaling, but I make up most of my time during a race on the DH sections of the course where the POE does slow the wheel down on a very small scale, losing a couple of seconds in a 2hr race for me is not worth it. Again just my personal opinion.
    Which I will counter by saying that the quicker POE lets you transfer power quicker. You're totally right though on the weight, CK is a boat anchor compared to DT.
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  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZXFT View Post
    Which I will counter by saying that the quicker POE lets you transfer power quicker. You're totally right though on the weight, CK is a boat anchor compared to DT.
    I completely agree with that. I still prefer the DH though.

    Actually if I could afford a couple set of hoops, I would have a set of wheels that had high POE for courses that had little elevation change and another for the courses with long climbs and DH sections.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spinning Lizard View Post
    I completely agree with that. I still prefer the DH though.

    Actually if I could afford a couple set of hoops, I would have a set of wheels that had high POE for courses that had little elevation change and another for the courses with long climbs and DH sections.
    While we're dreaming, I'd like a set of Kappius hubs laced to envy rims
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  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Climber999 View Post
    BUT!!! All of the above are costly. A good hub that is in your budget is Stan't. 30 P.O.E. and very light. James Bleakly from Black Sheep swears by them. You can get them only as part of a wheelset, which means purchasing them either from Statn's or Dave from Speed Dream Wheels.
    Sun Ringle Dirty Flea SS is made by the same company (Chosen) as the Stans ZTR hubs. It's not as machined and uses a bolt on axle so it weighs more but the drive mechanism is the same as the Stans hub.
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  7. #32
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    I'm a big fan of the White Industries freewheel. I'm currently running Chub Hubs which have been great for me. They are definitely cheaper than Chris King!


  8. #33
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    DT Swiss 240s are light, durable, reliable, and fast. The 36T engagement is plenty fast IMO, but if I didn't go with those, I would use Hadley. They are probably the best hub on the market as far as smoothness and reliability, but are a bit heavier than DT Swiss. If you want a quiet hub, American Classic are light and fast, but my only fuss with them is that the engagement is quite slow in comparison.
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  9. #34
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    Hadleys rock. Quiet and trouble free. Changing end caps is a breeze with spanners, definitely a fan.

    I also run a King SS hub. I've destroyed a few cheaper hubs with the quickness, but these have been doing the job quite nicely.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubdryver View Post
    ...the engagement is quite slow in comparison.
    Understatement of the century? I've ridden various hubs, and, up until I rode an American Classic, I was never bothered by lack of POE. Those things are terrible from an engagement standpoint.
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  11. #36
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    Hopes quieten up a lot if you pedal more.

  12. #37
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    White Industries MI6 are very much like Hopes. I recently built a set of wheels with them and they are very quiet. Not many miles on them yet (maybe 200) but so far so good. They also come with a steel freehub body, it's not an extra $90 like it is with Hope. Worth a look in my opinion.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrea138 View Post
    Understatement of the century? I've ridden various hubs, and, up until I rode an American Classic, I was never bothered by lack of POE. Those things are terrible from an engagement standpoint.
    I will have to say though, they are probably the best at resisting cog biting or cassettes digging into the freehub body. Those steel inserts do work well.
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  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianick View Post
    White Industries MI6 are very much like Hopes. I recently built a set of wheels with them and they are very quiet. Not many miles on them yet (maybe 200) but so far so good. They also come with a steel freehub body, it's not an extra $90 like it is with Hope. Worth a look in my opinion.
    They're nice, like everything else that WI makes, but they are not SS hubs...

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianick View Post
    Nice workbench.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by evoracer View Post
    My vote for Hadley's. Built up a SS specific set. Couldn't be happier.
    Truth. I have 2 Rear SS Hadleys. I love them, and the service dept rocks.

    That said, if I was building myself a wheel today on my current budget, I'd go Hope SS/Trials. That said, I may never need another rear SS hub, given that I have 2 Hadleys.

  17. #42
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    I've ridden DT 240's, Kings and I9's. A friend now has the DT's and he's had to re-build the rear twice. Of course, he's also cracked 7 fames in 4-5 years. My personal opinion for my riding, I9's first, Kings a very close 2nd and DT 3rd. DT not in the ball park for over the last 7 seven years of riding exclusively SS.

    Also, the Kings do drag a bit more in the stand, but I don't notice it on the trail.

    Always thought I'd like to try the Hadley w/ Ti body, but haven't gotten around to it.

    If you're not a weight weenie, the Kings are great. It's not rotating weight so don't lose sleep over it.

    Buy once, cry once is my philosophy.

    A friend has my last set of Kings on her bike. Those are 10 years old and going great!

    Get the best rear hub you can afford and ride the @#$$ out of it.
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  18. #43
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    Funny, I've had my 240s for 4yrs now and replaced the grease in them once a year....a whole 5min job..if that. No tools, literally pop it off with your fingers! If something were to go wrong, the ratchets can be purchased online for about $25.
    They are the lighest of the bunch for sure, and I would put a 240 hub laced with Supercomp spokes and Prolock nipples quality built up against any other Hub/spoke/nipple combination on the market, and it will give it a run for it's money! The setup is very light, stout, and durable...match that with some ENVE carbon rims and they are stellar!

    All but two people I know have had their I-9s sent back for maintenance. The I-9s do come with good Japanese ENZO Angular contact bearings..not sure if I would say they are better than the precision stainless Swiss bearings that come in the 240s...but who knows.

    I have nothing bad to say about Kings except for they are expensive and then you have to spend an extra $200 on a tool to work on them. They definitely aren't the lightest of the bunch

    I've had one set of Hadleys and they were perfect..but got sold with my last 26". They too require a tool for maintenance, but I think that one goes for around $70.
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  19. #44
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    Kings are very good for tandem use so slipping should not be an issue as a tandem team will make much more torque than an individual rider. If the ring drive is slipping, the appropriate first step is to call Chris King. Their customer service is great. As far as drag, they spin just fine once broken in, it will take 1000 to 2000 miles to occur. You cannot go wrong with any of of the high end hubs mentioned.

  20. #45
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    I plan on setting up either a surly ultra new hip or white industries hub both of which would use the wi trials free wheel. But those aren't what you are looking for but I think they would both be bombproof. For about the same cash as the wi set up Stan's will make the whole rear wheel with their ss hub for 360$. That is less than some of there hubs being discussed and I'm sure it would work great.
    When people see my ss bike on the trails and say somthing along the lines of "you are working hard" i say "Sure, but none of us is out here because it is easy."

  21. #46
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    I have Hopes on Stan's Flows with a few thousand miles and still spinning like new. I agree with tangaroo, a bit of thick Park grease quiets them down a bit. For the $ you can't go wrong.

  22. #47
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    The E.P. on Kings is amazing. Have you given them a call?
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  23. #48
    gd2
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    OKay, I have decided on I9 hubs, any input on rims? I ride everything, long fire road climbs, techy climbs xc stuff, dh stuff etc.. i need an all a rounder. I was looking at stans arch rims but I am trying to find some other options too.
    also debating between 28h or 32h?
    thanks

  24. #49
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    American classic 101s
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  25. #50
    gd2
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    hmm, i had a spoke rip through the rim on some hurricanes of theirs and I have been skepticial ever since.. any other suggestions?

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