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  1. #1
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    Chainguide for a SS? Chain drop issue.

    So I'm getting chain drops on almost every ride and I've re-tensioned the chain in the sliding dropouts before each ride, and my chainline looks to be very straight. The drops don't come when the drivetrain is under heavy load like a climb, but usually after or in a bumpy section of trail. I think my problem may be due to frame flex (no seat stay brace) combined with a cheap Truvativ crankset and square-taper BB. I'm probably flexin' all over the place. My drivetrain up front will be changing considerably in the coming weeks to the pictured Deore crankset and n/w chairing . I'm thinking about adding a plain 'ol s/t-mounted chainguide like this one for insurance: Name:  CG.JPG
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    Forgot to mention I'm currently using a 1/8" chain because I used to have a rear cog that would only fit that, but now have a Surly cog that accepts a 3/32" (and the 1/8"). Anyone else have this issue on a SS and did it resolve chain drop issues? It's maddening because that should be the one thing I don't have to worry about on a SS. Any suggestions to resolve this will be welcome.

    New crankset: Chainguide for a SS? Chain drop issue.-20170820_120757.jpg

    Bike: Chainguide for a SS? Chain drop issue.-sstrek.jpg
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  2. #2
    wanna ride bikes?
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    So I'm getting chain drops on almost every ride and I've re-tensioned the chain in the sliding dropouts before each ride, and my chainline looks to be very straight.
    How do you know, did you measure? IDK if chainline is your issue but guessing isn't going to help.

    I've used square taper, non-braced frames etc and never had an issue with dropping chains. The NW chainring may help but it's not really necessary on a SS.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    How do you know, did you measure? IDK if chainline is your issue but guessing isn't going to help.

    I've used square taper, non-braced frames etc and never had an issue with dropping chains. The NW chainring may help but it's not really necessary on a SS.
    I haven't specifically measured for dead straight but looks it. If I have to measure then so be it.

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  4. #4
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    also a 8 dollar 3/32" chain or even a 9-10speed (narrowest that fits your cogs) may be worth investing in.

    i thought 1/8" chains were/are the sh!t as well but have the occasional chaindrop issue with one when i tired a 1/8" chain with a narrower ring and cog. switching to a narrower chain solved my problem.

    i have never had to measure chainline. my eyes always seemed good enough... i'd try the chain first; get a cheap one so you're not out $$$$ if that isn't the solution.

  5. #5
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    how worn are the chain, chainring and cog? Is the chain tension getting looser while you are riding? Check the frame for cracks?

    I would be shocked if crank flex were doing this, but I have heard of cases where worn parts are to blame.

    In my opinion a chain guide is band-aid and is not addressing the real solution. The chain should never drop on a SS unless you have the tension wrong or worn parts.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  6. #6
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    N/W Chainring may work.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    how worn are the chain, chainring and cog? Is the chain tension getting looser while you are riding? Check the frame for cracks?

    I would be shocked if crank flex were doing this, but I have heard of cases where worn parts are to blame.

    In my opinion a chain guide is band-aid and is not addressing the real solution. The chain should never drop on a SS unless you have the tension wrong or worn parts.
    I finally got the cranks off last night and the stock chairing is a POS. Stamped steel, shallow (maybe due to wear). Frame is fine from what I can tell. I have a n/w on the new crank and a narrower chain. It looks like there will be substantially more engagement with the new setup.

    Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    I finally got the cranks off last night and the stock chairing is a POS. Stamped steel, shallow (maybe due to wear). Frame is fine from what I can tell. I have a n/w on the new crank and a narrower chain. It looks like there will be substantially more engagement with the new setup.

    Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.

    Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
    I had been using 3x systems on my geared bikes for years. The middle rings were always aluminum and saw alot of use. Over time every ring would wear down to the point it would slip under heavy load. When I removed the chain ring the teeth were worn and bent over allowing the chain to slip. New ring solved the problem. These things happen.
    Joe
    '12 Santa Cruz Highball 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5",Vassago Verhauen SS 29" XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  9. #9
    surly and rigid
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    In the picture of the bike, the chain shows too much slack. You want the chain to be on the very edge of binding in the tightest point and otherwise, smooth rolling. From the looks of it there, it would have almost a half inch of up and down movement.

    If you're not sure about the tension, just stop in at a shop and they will let you know.

    Cheers,
    George

  10. #10
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    Running a RaceFace NW in front, not so much as a ping out of the chain even running somewhat loose-ish at times.

    Chainguide for a SS? Chain drop issue.-20170823_122437.jpg
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  11. #11
    Birdman aka JMJ
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    I had a lot of issues with chain drop until I went from the wider SS chain (1/8") to an 8-speed (3/32") chain. The extra lateral movement on the chainring was the problem.

    I was running my chain as tight as I could and was still having drop issues regardless of new chain, or chainring. Just my .02

    JMJ

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoePAz View Post
    I had been using 3x systems on my geared bikes for years. The middle rings were always aluminum and saw alot of use. Over time every ring would wear down to the point it would slip under heavy load. When I removed the chain ring the teeth were worn and bent over allowing the chain to slip. New ring solved the problem. These things happen.
    I just switched out the front drivetrain and went for 20 today and everything was dialed. New external Shimano BB, Shimano crank with new n/w chainring, new 3/32 chain and a straighter chainline. Chain has about 1" of play in the middle. Pretty tight. Some pics.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Birdman View Post
    I had a lot of issues with chain drop until I went from the wider SS chain (1/8") to an 8-speed (3/32") chain. The extra lateral movement on the chainring was the problem.

    I was running my chain as tight as I could and was still having drop issues regardless of new chain, or chainring. Just my .02

    JMJ
    Agreed. My new 3/32 fits the n/w much, much better.

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  14. #14
    Armature speller
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    I've been riding along, dropping down rough sections and hearing a 'ting, ting' from something and finally realised after 30mins that my EBB had slipped and the chain was hitting the stay. 32t AB N/W oval ring. Never dropped.

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