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  1. #1
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    New question here. Chain tugs or better bolts? Chain suggestion?

    I was out riding yesterday and noticed I am pulling the wheel forward on the drive side. Common problem. Is there a chain tug that will work with the stock axel bolts? Do I need longer bolts? Or should I just reef it down? I have not had a whole bunch of problems with it. I would also like to prevent this from becoming problem. Also what is a good nice looking chain (gold prefered) that will last? I say gold chaid mainly because they seem to hold up so well and stay nice on my MX bike (motorcycle). Thanks! ---Mike

  2. #2
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    This should work:

    Tuggnut | Parts | Surly Bikes

    The best singlespeed chains are (in my opinion) the KMC Z610 or the KMC X1, but they're silver.

  3. #3
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    or the redline chain tugs. they come in pairs, which I recommend over a drive side only set up, and they are a bit cheaper ~$15 on amazon.

    as for chain, it really doesn't matter. if you have a nice chain line then they all should work nicely. just make sure sizing matches your cog/chainwheel.

  4. #4
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    I guess I missed the obvious. I just need to make sure the width of the dropout "slot" is correct. I still think I may need different bolts for the axle? It has allen bolts that go into the axle. This is what concerns me on this setup.

  5. #5
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    picture? almost all rear hubs are spaced the same, so I don't think width should be an issue. Regardless, on my SS, even with everything aligned and tightened down, the hub will slip in the dropouts. I was having to adjust tension every ride. With my chain tugs, I tension it once a month or less.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehwik View Post
    as for chain, it really doesn't matter
    That's not true. There are good chains and there are bad chains. A bad chain stretches rapidly and in doing so damages your sprocket and chainring. A really bad chain snaps when you're far away from home. A good chain, like those that I recommended, will last a long time without stretching or snapping.

    Oh, and you don't need a chain tug on the non-drive side because there's nothing pulling on it. Go away and learn the basics before you come here and give "advice".

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gonzo 1971 View Post
    I guess I missed the obvious. I just need to make sure the width of the dropout "slot" is correct. I still think I may need different bolts for the axle? It has allen bolts that go into the axle. This is what concerns me on this setup.
    I don't think you'll need different bolts. Which frame and hub are we talking about?

  8. #8
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    Whoah buddy! He means well. I understand what he means.
    The bike is a Bianchi SoK with WTB laser disc hubs.

  9. #9
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    The edge of the axle sticks into the slot, then the bolt goes into it. Crappy pic but it shows what I am percieving as an issue.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gonzo 1971 View Post
    The edge of the axle sticks into the slot, then the bolt goes into it. Crappy pic but it shows what I am percieving as an issue.
    Yeah, I know what you mean. If that bolt has a 6mm diameter then you're good to go because the Surly Tuggnut comes with a suitable adapter.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gonzo 1971 View Post
    Whoah buddy! He means well. I understand what he means.
    Sorry, I did a hard 3 hour ride today and I feel a bit grumpy.

  12. #12
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    we all have hard rides, but we don't all take it out on others. I won't give any advice on how to help you with your grumpiness. I seem to not be able to give advice.

  13. #13
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    To eliminate the problem, remove paint from the friction surfaces on both sides of the forkends. The hub locknut and bolt should meet bare metal. Paint is what causes the slip and tightening the nuts harder won't solve your problem. A sharp knife is a good tool for removing paint without chipping.

    If you want more peace of mind (or run a small chainring which pulls the hub harder towards the front), a tuggnut might be in order. I have the Surly and based on your picture I'd say it's a direct fit.

    Chains do matter. You'll find the best chains in 3/32 width, but 1/8 chains are made with good quality as well.

  14. #14
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    Thanks Saul! Great Idea on the paint. Thats is an obvious solution. I will try that. I will also get a tug on . Cheap insurance.

  15. #15
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    Just an update. I picked up the Surly tugnut. The bike feels so much more solid on climbs. Thanks!

  16. #16
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    I'm a fan of chain tuggs. You can slap your axle nuts on finger-tight and your wheel won't slip (not that I recommend doing that, although I have done it on accident). I also like the fine-tune-ability of chain tension. I totally douche out and run two, because I'm OCD like that. Another aspect that probably only matters to me, is that I didn't dig into my new bike's dropout's paint by imprinting all those divots from the axle nut/washer. Sometimes, (especially on an aluminum frame) digging in and imprinting those divots, will coerce your axle back to that position after your chain stretches, or you change some tooth counts.

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