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  1. #1
    wish I was out riding
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    Carbon crankset?

    hey peeps.

    can anyone recommend me a good carbon crankset to match with my external bottom bracket?
    I will be primarily use it with a singlespeed setup, but perhaps in the future I'll put.... erm. gears. (there, I said the word).

    Truvativ XO?

    Cheers

  2. #2
    SCRUBDUNKER
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    XO with Bling Ring

  3. #3
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    I recommend the Race Face SIXC. I got a set recently and love them. I had a set of X0s and the cranks are good, but I just don't like that SRAM GXP bottom bracket. It just doesn't last. The SIXC uses the shimano standard giving you all kinds of aftermarket BB choices if you so choose. I don't think the SIXC is as light as an XO with bling ring, but it is lighter than the XO and it's stock spider. THe SIXC comes with all the stuff to run single ring or geared (there are no granny tabs in SS mode).

    BTW if you buy new and want the XO, buy an XX1 crank. It should be cheaper.

  4. #4
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    Here's what I put on my Specialized Carbon Stumpjumper SS 29.



    I haven't finished building my wheelset yet, so I have yet to ride it. I'll throw on some old WTBs I have lying around just to see how it rides tomorrow.

    excited about this! :


    I know they're not SS specific but I got front and rear for $350 bucks. Can't beat that! I just ordered a set of Stan's Arch EX 29 hoops today too! Exciting times for me

  5. #5
    wish I was out riding
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    nice suggestions folks!
    is the XX1 compatible with the "normal" BB (external cups) and "normal" (104) chainrings?
    thanks!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuntyMan View Post
    nice suggestions folks!
    is the XX1 compatible with the "normal" BB (external cups) and "normal" (104) chainrings?
    thanks!
    I've seen GXP and BB30 versions so far, but I havn't done any research on any other variations of the crankset.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuntyMan View Post
    nice suggestions folks!
    is the XX1 compatible with the "normal" BB (external cups) and "normal" (104) chainrings?
    thanks!
    No and maybe. Most SRAM cranks come in a few different BB configurations. For a frame with a normal threaded BB shell, you want the GXP version. Most come with the BB cups, but not all I think. You cannot use a 'shimano style' BB with any SRAM GXP cranks, because the axle is different diameters on each side. There are of course other companies that make GXP BBs, just make sure it is SRAM or GXP compatible.

    To answer your second question, it depends. I think some versions use the 104 BCD, but most do not.

    But if you are going to use them for singlespeed or even 1x9 or 1x10, you will be better off with a spiderless ring from MRP, North Shore Billet, Wolftooth, Warhawk, etc.

    Or just but the XX1 version.

    Go to the SRAM website and spend some time doing the research.

  8. #8
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    xx1 is the cheapest way into a carbon crankset for ss. Gxp versions play well with the mrp bling rings as far as chainline, bb30 not so much. the standard chainring on the xx1 is 76 bcd so you'll have to use only xx1 rings unless you go spiderless.

    xo1 is apparently on the way..................so maybe the price for cranks will drop, but i really don't see why they would since I'm sure their won't be much difference if it remains carbon.

  9. #9
    mnoutain bkie rdier
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    About the XO + Bling Ring idea...

    Careful...if he (or anyone out there) has a PF30 BB, then this will not work. I just went thru this and found out the hard way.

    Bling Ring had microscopic print in the lower left hand corner of a web page telling me this would not work...somehow I missed it.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by austinTRON View Post
    Here's what I put on my Specialized Carbon Stumpjumper SS 29.


    What chain are you running with the xx1 cranks? Can you run a standard 104 BCD ring if you choose to?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmac720 View Post
    What chain are you running with the xx1 cranks? Can you run a standard 104 BCD ring if you choose to?
    You can't run a standard 104 BCD ring on the XX1 crankset because as was already mentioned the XX1 crankset uses a 76 BCD. That said, there are companies (North Shore Billet I think?) that make 104BCD spiders for the SRAM cranksets. Buy that and your 104 rings would work.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by solo-x View Post
    You can't run a standard 104 BCD ring on the XX1 crankset because as was already mentioned the XX1 crankset uses a 76 BCD. That said, there are companies (North Shore Billet I think?) that make 104BCD spiders for the SRAM cranksets. Buy that and your 104 rings would work.
    I have no issue running the 76 BCD chain ring, but does it really need the 11 speed chain, if you are running SS, or would a normal chain work fine.

    Edit, found the gentlemen's build thread, he's running surly cogs, and looks like a normal SS chain. Cool!!

  13. #13
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    I'm running a 32T MRP Bling Ring on the XX1 crank and SRAM PC-850 chain to my Surly cog. The Bling Ring brought my chainline out ~2.5mm as I recall.

  14. #14
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    Yeah I'm running Surly 18T cog and Sram PC-850 chain and everything runs just fine.

  15. #15
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    A few things about XX1 cranks, IMO.

    1. Keep re-torquing the non-drive site nut to 15nm. My experience is that it wanted to keep self loosening like it needed breaking in. I check it on a regular basis now.

    2. I'm using the SRAM GXP PF92 BB and it seems to have developed a 'noise'. That must be because I'm such a SS hammerhead...NOT! Anyway, I've got to pop it out and find out what's going on there. Seriously, I hope it's a 1 off problem and not a failure in the design.

    3. I keep the space between the bearing outer covers and dust caps completely filled with grease. I read that's SRAM's published method for correcting any loose fit between the spindle and bearings. I like bike parts to fit German style...gootentight. (I frankly expected SRAM to zero in their spindle manufacturing tolerances better than that, but that's just me).

  16. #16
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    I use the SRAM Noir singlespeed carbon crank. Nice and light and has taken lots of beatings.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS9r View Post
    A few things about XX1 cranks, IMO.

    1. Keep re-torquing the non-drive site nut to 15nm. My experience is that it wanted to keep self loosening like it needed breaking in. I check it on a regular basis now.

    2. I'm using the SRAM GXP PF92 BB and it seems to have developed a 'noise'. That must be because I'm such a SS hammerhead...NOT! Anyway, I've got to pop it out and find out what's going on there. Seriously, I hope it's a 1 off problem and not a failure in the design.

    3. I keep the space between the bearing outer covers and dust caps completely filled with grease. I read that's SRAM's published method for correcting any loose fit between the spindle and bearings. I like bike parts to fit German style...gootentight. (I frankly expected SRAM to zero in their spindle manufacturing tolerances better than that, but that's just me).
    Careful if you have to re-tighten the non-drive side nut on SRAM cranks. I had a set of Stylo, the nut was aluminum and after a couple re-tightens I was JRA on SS and almost crashed when the non-drive side crank fell off the spindle, but was still attached to my cleat. I replaced the aluminum nut with a steel nut from spares in tool box and no further problems or re-torque needed. LOL
    Fat, drunk, and stupid is no way to go through life son...

  18. #18
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    1. Keep re-torquing the non-drive site nut to 15nm. My experience is that it wanted to keep self loosening like it needed breaking in. I check it on a regular basis now.
    wtf? My XX1 crankset says "48-54 n.m." right on the 10mm Alan bolt. I've never touched my NDS crank as manual never says to do so and I've had no problems. What made you think you needed to torque the NDS crank?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by austinTRON View Post
    wtf? My XX1 crankset says "48-54 n.m." right on the 10mm Alan bolt. I've never touched my NDS crank as manual never says to do so and I've had no problems. What made you think you needed to torque the NDS crank?
    Fair enough. I looked again and really read the fine print. The outer nut fits a 10mm Allen wrench and torques to 12-15Nm. The inner captured nut fits an 8mm Allen wrench and torques to 48-54 Nm. I didn't torque NDS captured nut enough.

    Now about that "manual never says to do so"...I'm fine with leaving the NDS 10mm nut as-is and I always have.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS9r View Post
    Fair enough. I looked again and really read the fine print. The outer nut fits a 10mm Allen wrench and torques to 12-15Nm. The inner captured nut fits an 8mm Allen wrench and torques to 48-54 Nm. I didn't torque NDS captured nut enough.

    Now about that "manual never says to do so"...I'm fine with leaving the NDS 10mm nut as-is and I always have.
    What bottom bracket are you using? Maybe if we have different versions they have different installation methods. My Drive-Side is the one that has the 10mm Hex and it says to put 48-54 n.m. on it which is like 425-450 sq. inch lbs or something. its my NDS that takes an 8mm bolt and I've never had a reason to touch it. When I first installed my crankset I only tightened it so that the cranks would still spin pretty freely. Which in retrospect was probly like 10 n.m. Then when I went to install my chain, pedals, etc. I noticed that they started to losen up a bit. So I tightened them down a bit harder but was kinda bummed out that they didn't spin as freely as I had hoped. So I took my bike out for the first ride ever and they loosened up again 3/4 away through my ride. The next day at the shop I read (in the manual and on the actual bolt) that it said 48-54 n.m. and I was like "Holy crap!". I had to dig out an old industrial Schwinn torque wrench the shop had lying around from 1964, lol. I tightened down to 420 sq. inch lbs because that's the highest the torque wrench would go and I have had no problems to this day. the more I ride it the more freely the cranks spin so they are a lot better now. Just needed time for the bearings to seat.

  21. #21
    one chain loop
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    yeah, torque wrench is not necessary for 54 Nm. usually your arms give up first before you can make the wrench "click".
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by austinTRON View Post
    What bottom bracket are you using? Maybe if we have different versions they have different installation methods. My Drive-Side is the one that has the 10mm Hex and it says to put 48-54 n.m. on it which is like 425-450 sq. inch lbs or something. its my NDS that takes an 8mm bolt and I've never had a reason to touch it. When I first installed my crankset I only tightened it so that the cranks would still spin pretty freely. Which in retrospect was probly like 10 n.m. Then when I went to install my chain, pedals, etc. I noticed that they started to losen up a bit. So I tightened them down a bit harder but was kinda bummed out that they didn't spin as freely as I had hoped. So I took my bike out for the first ride ever and they loosened up again 3/4 away through my ride. The next day at the shop I read (in the manual and on the actual bolt) that it said 48-54 n.m. and I was like "Holy crap!". I had to dig out an old industrial Schwinn torque wrench the shop had lying around from 1964, lol. I tightened down to 420 sq. inch lbs because that's the highest the torque wrench would go and I have had no problems to this day. the more I ride it the more freely the cranks spin so they are a lot better now. Just needed time for the bearings to seat.
    Okay. I'm really getting it now after I really zoomed in on one of the pics you posted. You most definitely have a different XX1 from mine. I have a 2 piece XX1 crankset that has the hollow spindle and only the NDS nut to hold it all together in my PF92 BB. I'm still getting a new torque wrench though...

    Carbon crankset?-large_sramxx1kurbelbymarcotoniolo.jpg

  23. #23
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    I'm currently running Middleburn RS7 cranks, I have their "uno" 32T ring, but I switched to an alloy spider so I could run a 34T Q-ring.

    Would switching to a Noir, X0, or XX1 save me some weight?

  24. #24
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    That explains it then, I have the BB30 xx1 crankset. Still seems weird that mine recommends to torque it to 54 n.m. That is cray cray.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by austinTRON View Post
    That explains it then, I have the BB30 xx1 crankset. Still seems weird that mine recommends to torque it to 54 n.m. That is cray cray.
    That looked a bit high to me as well. I decided on 50nm torque for mine. Broke out my old dial torque wrench, preset it to 5 kg-m and set that NDS nut to spec. I'm definitely going to get a click style torque wrench. Holding the crank arm steady and setting that NDS nut while watching the dial could have been an interesting spectator sport.

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