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  1. #1
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    Can't keep chain from skipping, need solution

    I converted a Trek hardtail to SS awhile back. I put on a Surly Singleator with a new 9 speed chain, Surly stainless 34T ring up front, and a Gussett double 16T in the rear. The Singleator was setup to push down away from the chainstay to keep tension, and it has worked perfectly for the hundred or so miles I have put on it. Now today I wanted more gear so I replaced the 16T with a 14T. I figured the chain would be longer but upon inspection, it doesn't really seem I can take a link out without making it way to tight, tight enough to bind it slightly, but when I keep the chain at the original length with the tensioner in place it will skip under load. I am fairly sure the chainline is correct or close enough as it never had a problem with the bigger cog and it worked flawlessly, and I cannot use the singleator as a push up to get more wrap because the chain is to loose to take up the tension even with the tensioner to the chain stay. What are my options, or what am I missing?

  2. #2
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    I had that issue also. I bought a new chain ( one for each gear I run) I'd have to look to see which chain I got. Also not sure on the specs of the surly gears, but I was running a 9 spd chain also. Once I did that the skipping stopped. The ramps on the 9 spd would skip off the singlelator from what I could tell. Due to it not sitting all the way on the teeth which didn't help.

    I run HBC chainring and cog.
    Last edited by worrptangl; 02-24-2013 at 10:26 AM.

  3. #3
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    Part of your problem is most likely the 14 tooth cog. You need a bigger cog in the rear to improve the number of teeth in contact with the chain. The Information Hole | Surly Bikes

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nrs1Rider View Post
    Part of your problem is most likely the 14 tooth cog. You need a bigger cog in the rear to improve the number of teeth in contact with the chain. The Information Hole | Surly Bikes
    I agree with this. That small cog in combination with the chain tensioner isn't giving the chain much to bite on. A 39t chainring up front with the 16 cog would most likely solve your problem.

  5. #5
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    I think you guys are right. When going back to the 16T it works perfect again. I think there is to little contact in the rear. I am wondering though if by shortening my chain a link and adding a half link, which keep the binding down, would allow a little more wrap and maybe solve it. But even with the 14T working I still feel I want more gear, which is problematic too as there are not alot of chainrings for a 104bcd crankset to allow that. I may have rethink what I need to do.

  6. #6
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    So, are you gonna tell us what size wheels you are running? I don't know if you are on 26" or 29". If you are running 34 x 14, why not run 32 x 16? That is really common. I am running 34 x 18 on my 29er SS, and plan to change to 32 x 22 soon.
    "Head injuries are pretty high-consequence" - AndrwSwitch

  7. #7
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    In my experience-the 14t is the issue. I tried to put some commuter gearing on a GT hardtail a few years ago, and ran into the same exact issue. I just changed the gearing up front, new chain and kept a 16 on the rear-problem solved.
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  8. #8
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    I am running 29x 2.10 for the trail which 34x16 is great. I was changing the gear for running urban rides which I was using 700x38 tires. Which is why I would like more gear. Looks like I can change the front ring to a much larger one and get what I need.

  9. #9
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    The 9 speed chain might be the issue I think it's to tight for the tooth.
    I once use 22x13 with 8 speed chain and it's skip but rarely, I use cheap dimension cog and shimano chainring.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebike7 View Post
    The Singleator was setup to push down away from the chainstay to keep tension,
    You're right it should push upwards for more chain wrap.

    If it can't push up with the original spring, you might have better luck with the tie wrap mod:

    Last edited by asphaltdude; 02-25-2013 at 03:08 AM.
    Ride more!

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