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  1. #1
    brother on a mission
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    axle tug/tuggnut/chain tensioner for KHS

    I have a couple of rides on my bike(a KHS Solo-One), and I have noticed that the chain is a little loose after each ride. It may just be new bike chain stretch, but I suspect that I am moving the wheels in the drop outs.

    I am thinking of getting some axle tugs from the frame, but I am concerned about which tugs will work with the drop outs on the solo-one.

    Does anyone have any advice/experience with this frame? Do I need to be concerned about axle size when selecting the appropriate tug?

    The Spot and Surly options seem really nice, but a $10 tug option sounds pretty good too. Especially because I already pushed my bike budget a bit with an ENO freewheel and Mary bars.

    Thanks in advance for your advice.

    GF

  2. #2
    Misfit Psycles
    Reputation: nogearshere's Avatar
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    it's all good...

    Unless you haven't tightened the bolts all the way down you shouldn't get any movement in the rear wheel. Make sure the bolts are torqued all the way.

    What chain are you using? A multi speed chain will generally stretch faster and more often then a SS specific one. Either way some stretch is normal.

    My experience is that tugs are not req'd, however, they do make tensioning the chain a wee bit easier (saves needing 3 hands) and in the cases you mentioned they are nice to look at too.

    Most $10 tugs come with a 9 or 10 mm hole, your wheelset is probably a 9mm bolt so any will do.
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  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenfix
    I have a couple of rides on my bike(a KHS Solo-One), and I have noticed that the chain is a little loose after each ride. It may just be new bike chain stretch, but I suspect that I am moving the wheels in the drop outs.

    GF
    I wouldn't doubt the axle moves. With my Unit I've had chain stretch and sliding drop movement. The drop movement stopped when I replaced the factory allen head bolts with hex-head bolts I could really torque down. But the chain does wear every ride - your mileage may differ - it's not just new chain "stretch", I get continual wear.

    To monitor the position mark the axle position in the dropout. Place the mark (pen/sharpie) in front so that if the axle moves it covers the mark.

  4. #4
    brother on a mission
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    Thanks for the info.

    I have put some serious body english into tightening the bolts. I am pretty sure they are as tight as I can get them. I have not used my torque wrench.

    It may just be chain stretch. It has not gotten in the way of a ride yet. I just fine myself retensioning the chain after rides. The chain is the KMC Z chain that the bike came with. I have some SRAM PC58s waiting in the wings to mount up once the Z chain is spent.

    Thanks again,

    GF

  5. #5
    Misfit Psycles
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenfix
    Thanks for the info.

    I have put some serious body english into tightening the bolts. I am pretty sure they are as tight as I can get them. I have not used my torque wrench.

    It may just be chain stretch. It has not gotten in the way of a ride yet. I just fine myself retensioning the chain after rides. The chain is the KMC Z chain that the bike came with. I have some SRAM PC58s waiting in the wings to mount up once the Z chain is spent.

    Thanks again,

    GF
    If you can swing it go with the KMC Z610HX - it is a BMX SS and i trust it with my health (life seems too dramatic). i am a 200+ and run 34:16 in the bushes, i change BB's more often then these chains...cheap too 15-25$

    Pacman could be very right too, in hindsight I have replaced the bolts on a few of my White Ind hubs to some with a little more bite to them.
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  6. #6
    bike dork extraordinaire
    Reputation: sirkrameroy's Avatar
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    Redline tug-type tensioner should work also.

    Quote Originally Posted by Greenfix
    I have a couple of rides on my bike(a KHS Solo-One), and I have noticed that the chain is a little loose after each ride. It may just be new bike chain stretch, but I suspect that I am moving the wheels in the drop outs.

    I am thinking of getting some axle tugs from the frame, but I am concerned about which tugs will work with the drop outs on the solo-one.

    Does anyone have any advice/experience with this frame? Do I need to be concerned about axle size when selecting the appropriate tug?

    The Spot and Surly options seem really nice, but a $10 tug option sounds pretty good too. Especially because I already pushed my bike budget a bit with an ENO freewheel and Mary bars.

    Thanks in advance for your advice.


    GF

    I have had the same problem with my solo-one, and today I installed some $15 Redline tug-type tensioners that seem to work fine. I did a short but hilly ride and there was absolutely no wheel movement. While in the store I noticed these come standard on the Redline Monocog SS, which makes me think wheel movement is a fairly common issue with SS bikes.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
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    No tuggnut on mine

    I've taken my stock solo one on the trail and haven't found a need for a tensioner. Doesn't hurt though.

  8. #8
    Steamroller
    Reputation: Mattman's Avatar
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    I disagree, you need tuggs

    Quote Originally Posted by nogearshere
    Unless you haven't tightened the bolts all the way down you shouldn't get any movement in the rear wheel. Make sure the bolts are torqued all the way.

    My experience is that tugs are not req'd, however, they do make tensioning the chain a wee bit easier (saves needing 3 hands) and in the cases you mentioned they are nice to look at too.

    Most $10 tugs come with a 9 or 10 mm hole, your wheelset is probably a 9mm bolt so any will do.
    In my experiance with the Solo-One a tugg was very much needed. No amount of tightening would keep the wheel tight. The stock chain will also wear or stretch quickly. I'm a big guy and apply imense torque when climbing. I was stopping to tighten the chain 3-4 times on a 10 mile ride. I opted for the surly tuggnutt and a Wipperman chain a few weeks later. The Surly comes with a special little washer thing for use with a QR skewer, the hole will be too small, but for best results with the KHS's allen bolts drill those washers out to the size of your bolts and use the washers. If you don't use the washers you'll have a real sloppy fit. This solved my problems. I just sold that bike and I removed my Surly tug and put on a $10 cheapy to sell it with, it was not as nice but will work fine also. Here are a couple of tiny pics.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    [SIZE=2]Two Wheeled and Too Big[/SIZE]

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