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  1. #1
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    2005 DMR Simple Tension Seeker (STS)

    This is the best info I've found so far...

    Do you think I can run a 1/8" chain? Looks easily possible?

  2. #2
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    I use one of these and it seems to work pretty well. Have never used any of the other chain tensioners on the market but the reason that I chose this one was that it wasn't spring-loaded. All the reviews that I had read of the spring-loaded tensioners were pretty mixed. The only downside I would say with it is that you have to remove the QR to get the back wheel out but that's a 5 second thing.

    I don't know about the 1/8" chain but I use it with an 8-speed 3/32" chain OK.

  3. #3
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    I have a few Rollenlagers on their way to me right now probably above the Atlantic somewhere. Those seems somewhat similar?
    Klok - XC - Skate - Ski

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cloxxki
    I have a few Rollenlagers on their way to me right now probably above the Atlantic somewhere. Those seems somewhat similar?
    God you're right they look mildly dissimilar.

    I wonder... does the Rennen sell for AUD$75? Then again the Rollemlagers look beefier.

  5. #5
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    I can't tell what the DMR's extra bolt does...is it specific for a DMR hanger?

    I paid the $50 times 2 plus the $10 for international shipping. If I should have ordered something better for less money, don't tell me please.
    I was so cocky to never even try gears on my gear-specific Surly Pacer road bike, and I'm too stupid to get the Singleator (older model by now) to work for me, even dropped a chain a few times. Now I use an extra elastic band (emergency repair, taken from Camelbak net) to have some actual spring tension. I'm sure others can make it work without, but I need something fool-proof.
    Klok - XC - Skate - Ski

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cloxxki
    I can't tell what the DMR's extra bolt does...is it specific for a DMR hanger?
    The extra bolt on the DMR goes into a plastic insert that slides into the dropout and is fixed by the QR. I guess that this effectively secures the tensioner in place and stops it rotating when fixed only by the hanger bolt. It works OK but because the insert is plastic I'm not sure how long it will last - just don't be tempted to do it up too tight.

    I think that Rennen looks like it has a better design because the bracket is one piece and is locked by the QR directly but it is more expensive and unavailable in the UK (where I am).

  7. #7
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    It's just as available in the UK as in Holland. You get 2 dollar to the Pound now, don't you? Air ship $10 is ok. I got 2.
    Klok - XC - Skate - Ski

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cloxxki
    It's just as available in the UK as in Holland. You get 2 dollar to the Pound now, don't you? Air ship $10 is ok. I got 2.

    Where did you order them from?

  9. #9
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    DOH! Don't worry I found it. Didn't realise that Rennen supplied direct.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cloxxki
    I
    I paid the $50 times 2 plus the $10 for international shipping.
    I like it, and I like it alot!
    US$60: AUD$80 or AUD$67 for just the tensioner.

    The Rennen's a player, simpler design, cheaper, looks slicker and probably has better bearings (The DMR looks like a bushing from the picture.).

    I got to get me one of those for my next SS that most likely would have a vertical dropout.

  11. #11
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    What is the best source to order either the Rennen or the DMR?

    Thanks,

    Rich

  12. #12
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    Have one and use it

    I have had one on my trials bike for a while (until I decided to use that bike for a beachrace, but thta's a different story). It did hold pretty well, considering the stress put on a drivetrain busting trials moves, and considering I'm just starting out smooth isn't the word to describe my style.

    I don't know about the plastic part mentioned above, mine is all stainless steel and aluminium. Have to say I got a sample from dmr, so perhaps the final product does have a plastic piece, to hold the tensioner at the axle/qr area.

    Also mentioned before is that changing a wheel does take a little more time, since you need to disassamble the qr as a whole, but it doesn't take very long to adjust to that extra handling.

    One thing i'm not to happy with the alu bolt used to attach the STS to the derailleurhanger. It still does hold up, but it's somewhat soft and the allen part damages easily if you don't pay attention when you assemble the STS. I would suggest to switch it out for some steel in the long run, then you can crank it down a bit better.

    You can run it either push up or push down. Some of the things I ran into is that if the chain is a bit too long (but you are unable to shorten it more) and you want to use push up mode, you tend to push it into the chainstay. Only solution then is to run it in push down (or use a half link)

    As soon as i decide to put together my little play bike, there no doubt that I'll put the STS back on. It's a simple and effective little piece of steel.

    cheers
    R.

  13. #13
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    Setzer,

    I agree with your comments about the STS regarding the alu bolt and the push-up push down issue. I ran mine initially as a 32:18 for some hilly rides and the chain length worked out well for use with the STS pushing up. I prefer this mode for the benefits of more chain wrapped around the rear cog and it gets the tensioner further up out of the way of damage.

    When I switched to 31:16 for my normal training rides the amount of slack in the chain meant that I couldn't run it in push-up mode so I switched to pull-down. I had no problems with it apart from the mental ones. I recently switched to 36:18 gearing and this has once again allowed me to go back to push-up.

    All in I am very pleased with this tensioner and would reccomend it to anyone.

  14. #14
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    QR wheel removal

    How does the Rennen or STS tensioner affect rear wheel removal?
    Last edited by nmcculloch; 12-13-2004 at 11:12 AM. Reason: mis-spelling

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmcculloch
    How does the Rennen or STS tensioner affect rear wheel removal?

    I have the STS and if you refer to the photo at the top you can see there are 2 allen headed bolts that need to be slackened off. Remove the rear QR and the wheel just slides out as normal. When refitting the wheel the tensioner just needs to be retensioned and the bolts tightened again. It may sound a bit involved but it's really just a few extra seconds and most people carry the allen key anyway.

    I would assume the Rennen is a very similar procedure.

  16. #16
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    same with Rennen, take out the QR.

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