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  1. #1
    1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
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    20/18's or 18/16's?

    I'm going to build up a set of SS 29er wheels soon....I see the choice of DB 20/18's or 18/16's available and was thinking of going 18/16's for a change. Thought I'd ask for some feedback on this from those with wheel building experience or experience on both spokes.

    Background info....75-77kg rider, not riding anything dramatic, just single track with some small drops. Rigid bike with 2.1-2.4 tyres, tubeless, Crest rims, but going SS specific Paul hubs, using both 135mm options in Whub an Word Disc. I figured I could drop down one size in spokes to fine tune the ride, for some give and weight, considering I have never had any issues with the 20/18's with brass nips to date. I thought the wider flanges would offset any small differences in spoke diameter? I don't consider the difference is guage to be that much, so I am assuming it'll be good unless someone can give me reasons not to. Cheers.

  2. #2
    Phobia of petting zoos.
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    Provided the wheels are built properly with adequate and even tension then the lighter spokes will be fine. You know how and where you ride better than me, but I say "go for it".

    The way the wheel is built is far more important. Build a wheel like crap and it doesn't matter what the spokes are.

    Grumps

    Edit: Hehehe, when I saw this thread title I thought it was going to be about which ratios to use on a dingle speed!

  3. #3
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    Go for it!

    I normally still with 2.0/1.8/2.0 because I prefer to build on the burly side of safe, but when built properly you should have no issues whatsoever. Just mind the tensiometer!


  4. #4
    1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
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    Thanks guys...I will only have myself to blame as I am doing the building. Done a few wheels and have a decent sense of what tension works for me...I also view rims as expendable these days so don't mind if I trash them after a few good years of use. Also don't mind riding dented damaged rims if they keep going My rear rohloff/velocity is begging for a rebuild. Ha ha, those numbers certainly won't work for me as gearing!

  5. #5
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    No trials on your 29er???

  6. #6
    Trail Prospector
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    Re: 20/18's or 18/16's?

    Perhaps I'm missing something here, as weight weenie seems to override logic.

    Crest rim rider max weight is 170#.
    (75k = 165# without H20 or gear.)
    DT Comps - 2.0 / 1.8
    DT Revs. - 1.8 /1.5

    At your weight, it may be better to build an Arch wheelset with Wheelsmith db 2.0 / 1.7 spokes. Not much heavier, yet far more thrash-worthy..

    (by phone)
    The best is the one you want to ride most often..

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin_W View Post
    Crest rim rider max weight is 170#.
    The only limit I can find on the notubes site for the newest crest is a 190lb limit for their prebuilt (geared) Crest 29er wheelset with 2.0/1.7 spokes (presumably Wheelsmith).

    OP should be fine if he builds up with DT Comp 2.0/1.8 spokes, given his own description of his intended use. Arches would be a safer all-around bet, yes.

  8. #8
    1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackgriffen_1 View Post
    No trials on your 29er???
    not with my skills! Closest I will get is using an eno trials freewheel

    Not sure how much the crest rims will take, but from what I had read from reviews I thought I'd be OK. I'll see in due course I suppose. Part of why I am asking about the spokes too I guess. I'm not a weight weenie...10kg plus SS wouldn't fall into that category, but just looking at "why not". Happy to rebuild if I have made a poor choice.

  9. #9
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    I always use DT 2.0/1.8, for what it's worth.

  10. #10
    1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
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    Well, after much teeth gnashing, and angst I finally decided to take a risk that would either pay off and be great fun or cause me some problems and maybe an early rebuild. I won't know till I give it a go on the trails. I ordered and built with 20/15's...dt revs, on the Crests. My reasoning being I wanted a springy but lightish wheel and most of what I read suggested that the revs are just as strong but have a little more give than comps. Thanks for the input to you all though...I needed to bounce the ideas of people. I reasoned that the wide flanges on the Paul hubs would limit the flex normally present and I could afford to try a lighter rim and spoke. After all I may as well get the most from this kind of hub. So far with the bare wheels in the frame the give at the rim is minimal considering the lighter spokes. Its actually surprisingly stiff, and I would say stiffer than my Hope Pro2 front hub with comps on my other bike. I'll be sure to get back to this thread when I have used them for a little while and have a better idea how they hold up.
    20/18's or 18/16's?-dsc_0216_zps0966a2da.jpg
    20/18's or 18/16's?-dsc_0210_zps32059455.jpg

  11. #11
    1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
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    I thought I may as well update this post since I have put nearly 2000km on these wheels, and given them their first decent truing. I think considering what I have put them through, they've been pretty good. I have certainly had quite a few of those rock and log smacking "pinging" strikes. They had about 3mm of wobble in them perhaps, excluding the time I snapped 2 nipples in the rear with a stick. There is one definite flat spot on one side of the front rim, but running rigid and into rocks I guess not unexpected. I'll probably give them a finer truing in 1000 more kms. Rear bearings are pretty crunchy but doesn't seem to be an issue with rolling, at least with spinning held off the ground. The ENO trials freewheel has been solid. RR 2.4 on the front has held up well for my riding but will look forward to changing it over in a few months for some sharper edges.

  12. #12
    psycho cyclo addict
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin_W View Post
    Perhaps I'm missing something here, as weight weenie seems to override logic.

    Crest rim rider max weight is 170#.
    (75k = 165# without H20 or gear.)
    DT Comps - 2.0 / 1.8
    DT Revs. - 1.8 /1.5

    At your weight, it may be better to build an Arch wheelset with Wheelsmith db 2.0 / 1.7 spokes. Not much heavier, yet far more thrash-worthy..

    (by phone)
    I weigh 195 lb in the buff. The bike I ride most often has a set of stock Stan's built Crests. Over ~2 years (~3k+ miles) I've replaced two spokes (and trued the rear wheel), riding all sorts of stuff (including staircases).

    My only beef with a standard rear hub is that I wasted the bearings in a little over 1 year (replaced 'em with some high quality ones).

    If ya don't wanna have to mess with a wheel, build an Arch or Flow... I too have had better luck with Wheelsmith 2.0/1.7's.
    【ツ】 eDub 【ツ】

  13. #13
    1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
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    next wheel buld may well look into archs...actually, I just rebuild my hardtail with archs and comps so will get to test that setup as well. One true per year is OK in my book though but I am happy to fiddle with wheels.

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