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  1. #1
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    110 hubs for Monocog - conversion?

    I've decided (90%) to use my Monocog as a base and do some upgrades (currently it's a f&f I built up with my parts bin).

    -New crank, b/c they look purty (WI Eno)
    -New fork - Kona P2 for weight and to quicken the steering
    -Disc brakes - b/c all the cool kids have them, probably avid mechanical
    -Nicer hubs - running cheapo Sovos track hub, would like nicer hubs and disc-compatible

    My question is are their disc compatible 110 hubs out there? I can't find any, so my real question is can other 135mm disc hubs be converted to 110mm by swapping out the spindle or is the hub shell too wide? I have a good LBS that could do the work but doesn't have the mtb/ss knowledge.

    Ideally, I would like a 110 disc compatible rear hub that takes a cog, not a freewheel. Should I hold my breath until the Easter Bunny gets one from Santa Claus' Tooth Fairy, or does such a thing exist? If not, I'll probably go with a DX rear and stick with the v-brakes.

  2. #2
    Fat, but working on it...
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    I don't know of any 110 disc hubs (but it's possible, since they sell the bike with 110 mm dropouts and disc mounts) but I have heard of many people having a bike shop widen the rear dropouts to 135 mm. From what I've seen it's pretty straight forward. The frame is steel, so it should have enough flex. I guess you may need a different crank/bottom bracket to keep the chain in line, but you are only talking about moving it 12.5 mm on each side, so you may not even need that.

  3. #3
    Cubicle Fugitive
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    Mullet

    I have an 185mm Avid Mech on the front and an XT V on the rear. If there was any period of adjustment to this set up, it was so fast I didn't notice it. Both brakes run to XT V levers, and it feels like the whole system was made to be that way. Couldn't be happier.
    Last edited by czardonic; 07-13-2005 at 12:58 PM. Reason: sp

  4. #4
    Sofa King We Todd Did
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    Danscomp are your BMX headquarters. Check here to see if they have a disc hub for you:
    http://www.danscomp.com/cgi-bin/haze...UBS/index.html

    Main site is http://www.danscomp.com/

  5. #5
    Big Paws on a Puppy!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Burgess
    I've decided (90%) to use my Monocog as a base and do some upgrades (currently it's a f&f I built up with my parts bin).

    -New crank, b/c they look purty (WI Eno)
    -New fork - Kona P2 for weight and to quicken the steering
    -Disc brakes - b/c all the cool kids have them, probably avid mechanical
    -Nicer hubs - running cheapo Sovos track hub, would like nicer hubs and disc-compatible

    My question is are their disc compatible 110 hubs out there? I can't find any, so my real question is can other 135mm disc hubs be converted to 110mm by swapping out the spindle or is the hub shell too wide? I have a good LBS that could do the work but doesn't have the mtb/ss knowledge.

    Ideally, I would like a 110 disc compatible rear hub that takes a cog, not a freewheel. Should I hold my breath until the Easter Bunny gets one from Santa Claus' Tooth Fairy, or does such a thing exist? If not, I'll probably go with a DX rear and stick with the v-brakes.
    Just my 2 pennies.....

    I have a Monocog and I'm running Redline's disc specific hub in the rear although I've heard guys on this board having issues with them. Mine are running great but they are fairly new so I may not be the best source to speak on durability. There are a few BMX flipflop hub options that I found on Dan's Comp that coupled with a Atom Labs disc adaptor might make a nice rear hub as well. Problem here is I haven't found a hub in a 32 spoke config. Everything is 36 or 48 spokes. DOH!!!!
    ‎"My bicycle masters boardwalk and quagmire with aplomb." - Tom Nuttall

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Burgess
    My question is are their disc compatible 110 hubs out there?
    They are rare, but they are out there.

    I have one (badged FUNN) that I picked up pretty cheap and would rather like to get rid of, in fact. Its never been used or laced up, I bought it at a swapmeet thinking I might get a redline frame one day. Its got a QR axle (with its own special 110 length QR) and uses a thread on freewheel. I know you wanted cog, but obviously freehub style 110's are gonna be rare and spendy.

    Let me know if yah want it; I can do cash or trade.

  7. #7
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    atom lab adapter

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Burgess
    I've decided (90%) to use my Monocog as a base and do some upgrades (currently it's a f&f I built up with my parts bin).

    -New crank, b/c they look purty (WI Eno)
    -New fork - Kona P2 for weight and to quicken the steering
    -Disc brakes - b/c all the cool kids have them, probably avid mechanical
    -Nicer hubs - running cheapo Sovos track hub, would like nicer hubs and disc-compatible

    My question is are their disc compatible 110 hubs out there? I can't find any, so my real question is can other 135mm disc hubs be converted to 110mm by swapping out the spindle or is the hub shell too wide? I have a good LBS that could do the work but doesn't have the mtb/ss knowledge.

    Ideally, I would like a 110 disc compatible rear hub that takes a cog, not a freewheel. Should I hold my breath until the Easter Bunny gets one from Santa Claus' Tooth Fairy, or does such a thing exist? If not, I'll probably go with a DX rear and stick with the v-brakes.
    I would suggest the atom lab adapter and an eno FW if your worried about durrability issues, also the ACS freewheel spanner tool is a miricial worker, and only $20 at Dans, that tool with a large rubber mallet can undo probably any FW.
    I just put together a aluminum monocog from the web cyclery sale, to replace my old steel one, in a 17 in instead of 19 in size. I am running the kona jump fork, scab takeoff, cause I didn't want an aluminum fork, the jump fork is basicially a almost half pound hevier p2, it dropped the front end 25mm(barly shy of 1") and did noticibly steepen the steering, though some might call it twitchey, but I like it. I rides like a 24" bmx cruiser on a bmx track, and the big DH nbx tires 2.5 f 2.3 r stick like mad.
    I have been waiting for my atom lab adapter for a while now, from the LBS, if you can call atom lab or order it off their site that is what I would suggest, I am running a avid 185mm disc up front and a cheap v in the rear with xtr levers, until I can hook up the 160 avid.

  8. #8
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    questions, 2

    How many holes and how much?

    Quote Originally Posted by Fungazi
    They are rare, but they are out there.

    I have one (badged FUNN) that I picked up pretty cheap and would rather like to get rid of, in fact. Its never been used or laced up, I bought it at a swapmeet thinking I might get a redline frame one day. Its got a QR axle (with its own special 110 length QR) and uses a thread on freewheel. I know you wanted cog, but obviously freehub style 110's are gonna be rare and spendy.

    Let me know if yah want it; I can do cash or trade.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Burgess
    How many holes and how much?
    36 holes, black, 55mm flange diameter.
    And now that I have the calipers out, I measure the actual locknut to locknut distance at 115mm. That's wierd, but it won't be a problem if the frame is steel. May not be so good for an Aluminum framed Monocog. Theoretically the axle spacers could be replaced or machined to bring it down to 110, if you have that capacity and get hard up. Although it has a QR, the axle is also internally threaded at the ends for bolt-on (Paul's of CK style) use.
    Its got cartride bearings, looks like 4 of them guessing from the bearing size and hub shape, though I haven't taken it appart to check. Weight is 11.4 ounces, with skewer.
    I got it for $5 or so as part of a swapmeet deal (from Gene / Hurl of One on One) and shipping (USPS domestic parcel post or priority) looks to be about $4, so how's $10 sound? If you want to check shipping, my zip is 55414. I can take paypal.
    My E-mail is NOswiers@SPAMgmail.com - just remove the NO SPAM.
    Last edited by Fungazi; 07-15-2005 at 07:38 AM.

  10. #10
    To legit to quit
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    Kore makes bmx disc hubs too, i have a catalog around here somewhere with them. and there is always the atomlab adapter.
    MySpace.com/DansJustChillin
    MySpace.com/DirtyBobbysBikes

  11. #11
    hands up who wants to die
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    What are the drawbacks to the Atomlab disc adapter? I've heard they can unthread, but has that happened to anyone? It seems like red loctite could take care of that.

    thanks
    -rob in NY
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  12. #12
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    Cold set the frame

    Asssuming you hhave the Cro-Mo monocog, just go to a shop with alignment toolss and have them cold-set the frame to 135. Several people on this board have done it with great success. You can even do it yourself if you feel adventursome, but alignment can be tricky.

    The redlines are built so burly, the frame should be able to take it without problems.

    Then you can get any hub you want, cheap or spendy, and you'll be able to use the hub on future frames.

    Check it.

  13. #13
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    not sure of drawbacks, but...

    Quote Originally Posted by rpet
    What are the drawbacks to the Atomlab disc adapter? I've heard they can unthread, but has that happened to anyone? It seems like red loctite could take care of that.

    thanks
    -rob in NY
    I'm not sure if there are any drawbacks to the atomlab adapter, I havn't heard of any coming loose. The english company DMR also makes a similiar adapter which you use with some sort of lockring
    So far the only disadvantage I can find for the atomlab adapter is trying to get one, I've had one on order for about a month or more, he's been in contact with BTI and another supplier, and atomlab also, I guess no wholesaler had any in stock. ARR, still waiting to put my rear avid on, currently running the mullet with no problems

  14. #14
    Big Paws on a Puppy!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSSasky
    Asssuming you hhave the Cro-Mo monocog, just go to a shop with alignment toolss and have them cold-set the frame to 135. Several people on this board have done it with great success. You can even do it yourself if you feel adventursome, but alignment can be tricky.

    The redlines are built so burly, the frame should be able to take it without problems.

    Then you can get any hub you want, cheap or spendy, and you'll be able to use the hub on future frames.

    Check it.
    FWIW... Awhile back I e-mailed Gene at Spicer to ask about this very procedure. Jus thought I'd share his reply (see below)....

    Hi Richard,
    thanks for the email. It can be done for some frames but that is a pretty big jump out to 135 from 110. It often depends on the seat stay and chainstay arrangement and their respective length and overall frame design. Not sure of how it is all all put together.
    The stays are tied at the seat stay bridge so the spread pretty much happens below that or starts at that point.....so that may tell you a lot there and that is the stress point on the tube The best solution may be cut it loose there and replace tube (longer) and repaint.
    I suspect we would see we see some very very mild tube wrinkling going on or paint cracking at least if the the seat stay bridge was left intact.. If it is mono back to the seat stay bridge it may not want to be spread without something giving big time and that is a no no then for a super strong mono frame to the seat stay area.
    In extreme cases I have cut and rewelded seat stay bridges to give me the freedom to spread. I need to see a picture of the frame or something to give you an opinion really.

    There are lots of issue to study like the V brake and any disc mount (disc bracket can literally curve once the drops are resquared after spreading).
    Can you send a couple of pictures, side and top view? If all the above pitfalls can be avoided then it is doable. Where there is a will there is usually a way.
    thanks,
    gene


    ----- Original Message -----
    From: Richard A. Thomas
    To: info@spicercycles.com
    Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2005 1:34 PM
    Subject: Frame Work


    I have a Redline Monocog frameset (Chromoly) that uses BMX standard 110mm rear hub spacing. The good folks over at MTBR.COM have been throwing around the term "cold setting " which is described as a method of widening the dropouts to accept a MTB standard 135mm spacing hub. I was also told that you guys are the people for the job.

    Is this a pretty standard procedure to perform?
    What about the integrity of the frame itself? Good? Bad? Waiting to fail? Mis-aligned?
    What would be the cost to perform such a procedure?
    Are there any benefits aside from more hub options to doing this or not doing it?

    Please advise.

    Thanks,

    Richard Thomas
    ‎"My bicycle masters boardwalk and quagmire with aplomb." - Tom Nuttall

  15. #15
    blame me for missed rides
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