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2014 Rip9 front der question

938 views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  Highlander944 
#1 ·
I have the xt 2x10 build and love everything except one complaint. Can't get the front der as low as I would like. Don't care for this style of mount. Chain starts to rub on the bottom of the front der cage when in the small front ring and middle of cassette or smaller cogs. Anyone know of a mod or better front der? I'm sure running more sag or going to the big ring sooner would do away with the issue, just would prefer to lower the der if possible. Not sure how folks would get away with a 22t granny on this set up if they wanted it.
 
#2 ·
1st up, This can only be checked when ridding.

I have not played with the Shimano, But with Sram you have to buy the right deraillieur for the chain ring sizes you are running.
 
#4 ·
I think some more info is needed. I purchased the 3-star build. 2x10 XT. The ring setup is 26/38 and there is no rub. I believe the FD is the M785-E2.

It seems like what Muzzanic stated is true for Sram is also true of Shimano. The FD PDF indicates a 12 tooth span for the E2. If running a 40T big gear, the smallest little gear would be 28. If running a 38T then you could go down to 26T. A 24T or 22T looks to extend beyond the recommended range so this would like be difficult to setup. with no rub.
 
#5 ·
Can I ask what size you have? I have the Alloy 3 star in Large. Maybe I just run way less sag than most. I'm 240lbs in gear and run about 210lbs in the shock. I read somewhere yesterday I should be closer to 2/3rds of my riding weight, so maybe I will try 160lbs in the shock, that should give the chain lots of breathing room, just not sure yet if I will like the ride.

Thanks for all the responses.
 
#6 ·
I too have the 2014 Rip9 with 2x10 XT Large, 240lbs geared up. I just switched from a 26t low to a 24t low. In the stand yes the chain rubbed on the bottom of the derailleur. when Riding I don't notice it at all. I have about 170lbs in my rear shock
 
#15 ·
@ bluewave - I took some time to spin my bike in the stand. Using a 26 tooth front, gears 10, 9, 8 all rub the FD. Gear 10 looks to rub slightly on the side as well as bottom. On a medium frame, with sag at 25%, there is no rub from gear 9 and up. Gears 9 & 10 produce a very angled chain line. I've gotten into the habit of moving to the big ring as quickly as possible which usually happens once I pass gear 3.

@ shiftless89 - I'm in the 40+ crowd myself. I've been riding bikes and motorcross for over 30 years, MTBing for 20 (serious mountain biking for the last 5). With my original grip shift and XT (9 speed) shift indicators, I did not have to take my eye's off the trail. My peripheral vision picked up on gearing. Over the past year riding without shift indicators has become a bit easier. I find myself doing a quick spin to gauge the gear. New equipment is much better at hitting the entire gear range which has helped but knowing where your at was added assurance.

Thoughts on 2x and a 29" wheel:
This 26/36 gearing is a big jump. Each revolution pushes some 65.8" in linear distance. For comparison, a 26" wheel with a 3x setup would often see 22/32 for granny. Each revolution pushes 56.2". That's a 17% increase.

This year have I worked up the leg strength to push 26/36 (65.8" per rev) vs my previous 22/36 (55.7" per rev). It took me a full year of leg press / squats at the gym, running, and biking (MTB and road), but I'm finally there. For me, this felt the best option.

I've begun riding the 38 tooth ring much more to keep the chain from dropping and slapping. Perhaps the 'best' option for a 2x is a 24/36 combination. The 24 would be ready for once your tired and the 36 would run the rear cassette from 3-10. I believe the FD rub would be a non factor if you only used the first couple of rear gears even in the stand.
 
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