I've worked in a bunch of different shops and have never seen anyone use a torque wrench on pedals, or much else for that matter. Always have used a foot long pedal wrench and cinched them down accordingly tight and have never had any problems. I have however seen many problems due to under-tightening them.
Very much so. Especially if the pedals are likely to stay on the bike for a long time. I made up a new station bike for my son last week. The old one is going in the tip. When I went to take the pedals off it was impossible. They have seized solid. No big deal, junk pedals anyway, but not something you want on a good bike.
I wonder how many people own and how many shops would actually use a torque wrench that accommodates a pedal wrench. I just tighten the pedal as hard as is feasible for a person working alone. It's not really easy given that the bike shouldn't be in the stand and you need a hand for the wrench, a and for the crank, and a third hand to stabilize the bike. But then my technique is probably poor...
If you tighten pedals as hard as you can there is a very good chance you are seriously over tightening them if you are using anything longer than a 4" long hex wrench.
Unless otherwise stated I work on 30 foot pounds or 40 newton meters. Most pedal wrenches are one foot long so that means you need 30 pounds of force applied to tighten.
Even the most wimpy adult male can pull or push at least triple that most of us 5 or 6 times as much - if you get all your weight behind it even more.
Get your bathroom scales put them on a table and push on them (with you arm only no body weight) till they read 30lbs - you'll be shocked how little force that feels like.
On Shimano SPD pedals the 10nm value is for the pedal spindle nut to the pedal - not the pedal to the crank these are generally 40nm as JB weld said - however check with relevant crank specs - some of these carbon ones maybe lower and require some sort of expensive thread locking compound to compensate
I've been Tightening my pedals by hand for several years and have not had any problems. When it's time to swap the pedal out I still have to use the allen and some effort, so it appears to be tightened more as you pedal.
Pedals falling off and ruining crankarms is the worst case scenario, and not so uncommon, but a slightly loose pedal can also cause creaks and ticks that are sometimes annoyingly difficult to track down. Slightly too tight = zero problems.
How does a pedal falling off because it's not tight enough ruin a crank arm? Over tightening them by 5 or 6 times does; it screws up the threads. Most creaky pedals are caused by beasting them.
I can tighten a bolt to 1000nm with a 1.5meter long torque wrench; thats about 5 feet; with a 1 ft torque wrench 200nm. Above 1000 nm I need a torque convertor
Mimi
its not because the pedals tighten while riding going against the thread is a more acute angle thats all so break out torque is always more than make up torque
By the time a pedal falls off most of the threads towards the outside of the crankarm are non-existent, I suppose over tightening them by 5 or 6 times wouldn't be so good though. I have never personally seen a crankarm thread ruined by over tightening, and I know I haven't ever botched any of them.
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