Pulled my CCDB air apart yesterday. This is on a 2014 S-Works Enduro 29 with about 15 hours on the shock. Very new.
The main reason I am in the shock, is that I started loosing air pressure on my last 2 rides. Dunk tank showed no air bubbles, so I was curious even more.
Initial impression of the air can assembly regarding machining, general design, O-ring sizing, etc, was very good. Easy to work on solid design.
Initial impression of the damper assembly looked great too, until I saw the main damper shaft, with some pretty decent galling. Popped open the assembly, and initial inspection showed that the shaft was actually contacting the seal head. In other words, as the shock was cycled, the slight side load force on the shaft, was enough force to push through the main shaft seals guide structure, and grind anodized aluminum(seal head) on anodized aluminum(damper shaft). In the attached photo you, can see the dullness in the shaft where it was galling.
I like the way the shock functions, and the ease of tuning(reduced some base high speed compression on the valve stack while I was in the shock), but this is just going to happen again, if no changes are made.
I clearanced the seal head a little where the contact was happening, and buffed out the shaft as good as I could. No pressure loss sitting over last night, but I feel I should start looking at alternatives. We'll see how it does on tomorrows ride.
If Cane Creek wants to cut down on come backs and keep up a good rep, they really need to re-design some things. The damper shaft is a TINY diameter. I think all would be fine if the damper shaft were steel(might add 20 grams TOPS to the shock weight), and about .015" were taken out of the diameter of the seal head where the shaft exits. Also, there is VERY little overlap distance(piston wear band to shaft guide bearing), so any side load really binds the assembly up. That distance should be increased too, and it seems there is PLENTY of room inside the seal-head to do so.
I called Cane Creek a bit ago, and they did not really seem to care much. I asked if I could just buy some shaft seals and main shaft for the damper assembly, as mine are surely damaged, and they said were not set up for that. Said I should just send it in. If I do that I guess that will buy me another 10-15 hours of ride time?
Oh well..... Decisions decisions.....
The main reason I am in the shock, is that I started loosing air pressure on my last 2 rides. Dunk tank showed no air bubbles, so I was curious even more.
Initial impression of the air can assembly regarding machining, general design, O-ring sizing, etc, was very good. Easy to work on solid design.
Initial impression of the damper assembly looked great too, until I saw the main damper shaft, with some pretty decent galling. Popped open the assembly, and initial inspection showed that the shaft was actually contacting the seal head. In other words, as the shock was cycled, the slight side load force on the shaft, was enough force to push through the main shaft seals guide structure, and grind anodized aluminum(seal head) on anodized aluminum(damper shaft). In the attached photo you, can see the dullness in the shaft where it was galling.
I like the way the shock functions, and the ease of tuning(reduced some base high speed compression on the valve stack while I was in the shock), but this is just going to happen again, if no changes are made.
I clearanced the seal head a little where the contact was happening, and buffed out the shaft as good as I could. No pressure loss sitting over last night, but I feel I should start looking at alternatives. We'll see how it does on tomorrows ride.
If Cane Creek wants to cut down on come backs and keep up a good rep, they really need to re-design some things. The damper shaft is a TINY diameter. I think all would be fine if the damper shaft were steel(might add 20 grams TOPS to the shock weight), and about .015" were taken out of the diameter of the seal head where the shaft exits. Also, there is VERY little overlap distance(piston wear band to shaft guide bearing), so any side load really binds the assembly up. That distance should be increased too, and it seems there is PLENTY of room inside the seal-head to do so.
I called Cane Creek a bit ago, and they did not really seem to care much. I asked if I could just buy some shaft seals and main shaft for the damper assembly, as mine are surely damaged, and they said were not set up for that. Said I should just send it in. If I do that I guess that will buy me another 10-15 hours of ride time?
Oh well..... Decisions decisions.....