So friend told me some bull**** that I could void warranty by upgrading the rim on my rear wheel because that would put other components at risk of more stress in them (frame)?
I have problems with my rear Arch rim. Had to true it 3x times and it needs to be trued once more again after tonight's ride. Also broke some nipples but they're aluminum and weak that's fine.
I want to get a Flow rim because I'm honestly sick that I can't ride like I want because I'm breaking the rear wheel almost every ride.
The way the older warranty read in regard to replacing any original equipment items affecting the warranty could have been interpreted that way, but that was to deal with people putting 140mm forks on 80mm travel bikes and that sort of thing. Replacing an Arch with a Flow should be considered a compatible product (they're only 30gs heavier than the Arch and just 3.6mm wider) so unless you're killing the rear wheel by doing 6' drops to flat, the wheel shouldn't impact the warranty validity. If you were putting Sun Rhyno Lites on the bike to do freeride stuff, that would be a different story.
What will void Your Warranty?
* Warranty is not valid for any bicycles previously used for commercial activity such as rental, courier, police, security etc.
* Installation of components, parts, or accessories not originally intended for or compatible with the bicycle as sold.
* Purchasing a Rocky Mountain Bicycle from an unauthorized dealer.
* Purchasing a Rocky Mountain Bicycle or frame off third party internet sites (as eBay) no matter what the listing says.
You made it pretty clear. Thanks. I'm far from doing 6' drops. That's quite freaky stuff for a trail bike. I admit that I faily descent fast and not afraid of doing small 1-2' drops as I go.
On the rear problem now. Would a Flow rim + complete swap for brass nipples done by LBS be worth it and a stiffness upgrade? Or maybe a pre-built Hope pro 2 / Flow rear wheel ? That would be more pricy but would have a spare.
Are you running tubeless or tubed? If you're running tubes, the Mavic XM719 disc would be a sturdier rim than the Arch or Crest. If you wanted to run tubeless, then a Mavic XM819 is a full UST tubeless rim.
The DT Swiss alloy XC rims are a bit softer and have lower max rider weights than the Mavic, typically 95kg. The DT Swiss EX rims are sturdier but up in the weight range of the Mavic 719.
Are you running tubeless or tubed? If you're running tubes, the Mavic XM719 disc would be a sturdier rim than the Arch or Crest. If you wanted to run tubeless, then a Mavic XM819 is a full UST tubeless rim.
The DT Swiss alloy XC rims are a bit softer and have lower max rider weights than the Mavic, typically 95kg. The DT Swiss EX rims are sturdier but up in the weight range of the Mavic 719.
I recently bought a 950 and tried to register it on RM's website, but I couldn't find a link.
Any thoughts?
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