Grand Canyon/Kaibab Passion, Pt. 2

anthonys · 08-10-2006

Day 3, that morning we got up and breakfasted like kings on blueberry pancakes. Then saddled up for an east to west jaunt across the park.

Somewhere right along in this section a wolf crossed over the trail a few hundred feet in front of me. Yes a wolf. I’ve seen enough coyote to know the difference. He was a big tall grey rangy arrangement that moved in a very canid fashion.

And after several hours of pleasant riding, we arrived at Locust point, which was to be our home for the next two nights.

Can we talk about that big hole again? It was just mesmerizing. The light was evanescent, crepuscular, seraphic. Always changing. I couldn’t put down the camera.

anthonys · 08-10-2006

(li’l product placement there)

The next morning we got up and had another breakfast that couldn’t be beat and then geared up for the day’s ride. The next two day we would concern ourselves with the rainbow Rim trail, which is a lovely, lovely piece of singletrack that winds right along the canyon’s edge. It rolls along through the gentle valleys of the Kaibab plateau right at the edge of the aspen/ponderosa zone and the Pinon/Juniper zone.

anthonys · 08-10-2006

Yup, there’s a canyon over here too. See that little white speck at bottom center of that picture? That’s Thunder River, the world’s shortest and steepest river.

Amidst this ride we took a side hike into a canyon that Mike had been wanting to explore. It was a beautiful, intimate, aspen filled canyon. But 50 yards in we found a deer skeleton. All hunched over from the shoulders like a big predator had dragged it to that spot. And 100 yards further there was another. Then a leg. A leg with fur on it still. Then soft rain began to fall. The kinda rain that the Navajo call “female rain” Then Mike found a big ol' fresh mountain lion scat, with bone and fur in it. We skedaddled right out of there.

I named it the Valley of Death.

Back up in the ponders.

And back to camp, and the canyon, and that constantly changing light. Indulge me for a bit here….

anthonys · 08-10-2006

Who, I ask, needs television? Another evening spent engaged in the highly worthwhile activity of watching the canyon fade to blue.

The morning of the last day. The sun comes up in a house made of dawn. Some breakfast, some McGuyver, that’s how we roll up on the ‘Bab.

And then back to work. More Rainbow Rim trail.

anthonys · 08-10-2006

Yup, it’s still there.

And that’s pretty much it, kiddos. End of trip. Change. That’s the leitmotif of the Kaibab Plateau. The light changes. The weather changes. The forest changes. The trick is to notice it all happening. Or maybe not. It’s gonna do it’s thing anyway.

Of course there was the traditional end of trip group shot.

But that’s all she wrote. From here we headed back to the bustling metropolis of Kanab. It was another fantastic trip with Magpie Adventures. Look them up; it is a great way to spend a week.

http://www.magpieadventures.com/

Jim Beam · 08-10-2006

Incredible pics of an incredible trip. And I am incredibly envious. That area just moved up to almost the top of my most-desired places to ride. Thanks for sharing your excellent photos and giving me something to daydream about all day during meetings and commuting.

JB
.

forkboy · 08-10-2006

Wow.

That's all I can say.

Freakin Wow.

You find colors with your pictures that my eyes can barely comprehend.

~martini~ · 08-10-2006

So, seriously.

Just WHEN are you going to come out with that coffee table book? Your site is a regular inspiration for me. You've certainly got enough material. Hell, even just a calender would be good.

Neen · 08-10-2006

Who needs TV indeed! Now I really really want to go there. Before it was just that I really wanted to go :-)

radair · 08-10-2006

Thanks Anthony. Your posts are a big part of what make this site so good. Tremendous photography, as always.

KRob · 08-10-2006

Thank you. One of the best posts so far. Simply amazing and thoroughly enthralling.

rockman · 08-10-2006

as someone who has done close to 60 Grand Canyon river trips and mtn bike guided on the north rim for one summer in 1992 you have truly captured the essence of the place. right on!

jtrider · 08-10-2006

Thank You for bringing this to all of us !

aword4you · 08-10-2006

Amazing.

Thanks for sharing!

catch22 · 08-10-2006

Very nice post and pics Anthony, looks like a hell of a trip.

wooglin · 08-10-2006

I've got goosebumps. I love it.

glenzx · 08-10-2006

Anthony - amazing stuff. Just when I'm thinking - "oh, he can't possibly top his LAST post..." you put up this incredible 2-part (so far) essay... amazing stuff, and I'd say the whole western US owes you (or ought to be ticked off!) for inspiring legions of coastal/city folk to yearn for the west. Little I've seen published to date captures the awe inspiring beauty of the light and landscape that is constantly changing and surprising and boggling as has your photography. Thank you!

BTW, My wife an I were "sold" on the west, years ago, on a trip that took us to the north rim - and a magical dinner/sunset near Jacob Lake then eventually through the Gila Wilderness and other parts of NM...

THIS is art. Amazing. Rich and beautiful as an oil painting:

Maddog · 08-10-2006

What great pics! Thanks! I did the Rainbow Rim in late June. It's a great trail for anybody regardless of skill level. I had a problem with pinch flats which was solved by getting wider
rim tape but I didn't mind fixing flats in an aspen grove. I camped at Locust too for one night and sat on that stump in your group photo to patch tubes for the next day. What a view from there! Can't wait to go back and add the AZ trail to the agenda.

mtbbill · 08-10-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by anthonys

Somewhere right along in this section a wolf crossed over the trail a few hundred feet in front of me. Yes a wolf. I’ve seen enough coyote to know the difference. He was a big tall grey rangy arrangement that moved in a very canid fashion.

And after several hours of pleasant riding, we arrived at Locust point, which was to be our home for the next two nights.

I just got back from that area on Monday. That area is indeed awesome. We saw a wolf as well and there was absolutely no mistaking it for a coyote. The 3 million miles of dirt road it takes to get to the Rainbow Rim Trail is like a forest safari trip. Dozens of Deer, a wolf, turkeys, a porcupine, it was all pretty cool. Where you at the campsite just shy of Locust Point that sets right along the edge just before the main parking/turnaround area? I will not have pics ready for a couple of weeks, (I took two weeks off and somehow four weeks of work accumulated

) but they will not be of the same caliber as these. Really awesome work. I stood within mere inches of where you took some of your shots and failed to capture it as well as you.

Particularly this shot - Timp Point, the little trail that dead-ends on the rocks at the point? Truly inspiring work.

**CraigH** · 08-10-2006

Thanks!

We rode Rainbow Rim in early May and your pics capture the escence of the area.

We will be back!

RockinTejas · 08-10-2006

Simply amazing. Thanks for sharing and inspiring us.

lakasbraso · 08-10-2006

WOW! great photos.. i really need to find friends that are down to do the same thing that you guys did. It looks like you guys had so much fun. I'm jealous.

jonny boy · 08-11-2006

Wow, thank you anthonys. Now I'm motivated to plan a trip out that way. Very inspiring.

wg · 08-11-2006

Phenomenal. Thank you for that.
Educational too... I had to look these up: evanescent, crepuscular

Crazy Legs · 08-11-2006

Hey wait a minute I need to pick my jaw off the floor....Ummm...AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!

LJ0913 · 08-11-2006

Beautiful back country! Thanks for sharing!

scorpionwoman · 08-11-2006

...extraordinaire.

And I love that you made "breakfast" a verb.

anthonys · 08-14-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by scorpionwoman

...extraordinaire.

And I love that you made "breakfast" a verb.

Well little lady, you'd be suprised at the things that can be made into a verb....

Thanks for the props all. It was a fantasctic trip.

Low_Rider · 08-14-2006

Just brilliant. I can’t come up with the words to describe some of those breathtaking shots.

Thank you Anthony!

Dave.

dstepper · 08-14-2006

Was also out their last week. Yes an amazing area, as beautiful as the canyon views are, I was more empressed by the forest and the wildlife.

Anyone else find this fire lookout to climb? The views from the top are excellent. Was off Road 22 before you get to Road 206.

Enel · 08-14-2006

Great passion post.

I love the canyon. Despite the grandeur from the rim, you really can't appreciate its immensity until you hike into it.

Reading a great book about it right now: "Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon". A great read if you are thinking of visiting, and must read if you are thinking about hiking there.

jfsh · 08-15-2006

An even better way to get the real feel of the Canyon is in a raft or kayak. I have been lucky enough to do it in both. 21 days and 280 miles. Those are the most incredible trips I have ever been on. I would love to ride along the rim some day.

Enel · 08-15-2006

Definitely on my to do list some day.

slow up slow down · 08-16-2006

Awesome post! I can't believe I live so close and haven't done that trail yet...

If you only have time to do one section of that trail, what route would you recommend?

**CraigH** · 08-17-2006

Rainbow Rim is rideable in one day.

Make sure you use Slime tubes though, those locust thorns are nasty. We rode it in early May before the highway was open and ended up with 8 flats between the two of us.

TheotherH · 08-17-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by CraigH

Rainbow Rim is rideable in one day.Make sure you use Slime tubes though, those locust thorns are nasty. We rode it in early May before the highway was open and ended up with 8 flats between the two of us.

Great trail but if you don't want the pleasure of riding over, through or around a gazillion pine cones, wait till the rangers have been in to clear the trail.