The official On-One questions and answers thread

[Cloxxki]

Know something? Don't keep it for yourself, let us know it too!
Got a queston? The other guy has your answer!

Half a dozen On-One threads on the first page (ain't got more fingers to count), so I thought I'd add another one.

It's the off-season, and it beats kicking over trashcans (it's cold and wet out).
Anyone ridden their bike lately? I did a 9km jog today, 39m30. Bit better than I ever did 10 years ago when I did that sort of thing daily. No bad, been jogging for 2 weeks now, with rest days in between. Can already walk upright the day after too!

[frankenbike]

On this first batch of Inbred 29er's, clearance is tight. The next batch of Inbred 29er's will have the downtube positioned higher at the headtube to make up for forks like the Reba. But for the for the first batch...

Possible solutions:

Cane Creek S3 Plus5 headset: http://canecreek.com/s3_plus_5.html
Bottom cup is 5mm taller allowing clearance of adjustment knobs
Available from AE Bike:
http://aebike.com/site/page.cfm?PageID=30&SKU=HD2268
Or you can have your LBS order from Quality. Part #HD2268



Chris King headset with Ventana crown
Ventana makes a taller crown that can be used with the CK headsets.

[frankenbike]

The Inbred has full housing cable guides (great for Avid mechs).

There are no hydrualic style guides with the opening for zip ties.

So if you are running hydraulic, you'll need to:
- Disconnect brake line/hose, then insert through cable guide and reconnect hose (bleed if necessary).
- Or use the stick-on cable guides, avoiding disconnecting hoses.

[frankenbike]

The rear disc caliper will need longer mounting bolts. This is due to the wider chain and seat stays offset that allows the sliding dropout plates to sit inside.

As a result, 5mm spacers are used for each mounting bolt to position the caliper inward from the wider stays.

Longer bolts can be purchased from your hardware store, local bike shops or ordered from any of the bike parts websites

[Schmoe]

For completeness - the required bolt size for the rear caliper bolts on the Inbred 29er frame is M6 (6 mm) x 25 mm. This size is available at home depot.

[frankenbike]

The Inbred is wet painted, not powder coated.

The UK edition is solid white.

Our USA edition is a pearl finish with a fine metallic and warm appearance. Very custom looking.

[frankenbike]

The decals are clear coated over, so they are not easily removable like the Surly frames.

I post this because there have been some comments disliking the "younger market" look of the Inbred graphics.

[Enoch]

I''ve been informed that the cable guide tubes will be moved to the12 o'clock position on the Top Tube. The models I have seen had them mounted on the side of the TT. Confirm?

[PoorBehavior]

Originally Posted by Enoch

I''ve been informed that the cable guide tubes will be moved to the12 o'clock position on the Top Tube. The models I have seen had them mounted on the side of the TT. Confirm?

On my 29er, most recent batch, they are under the TT, at the 6'oclock position.

[brant]

Originally Posted by PoorBehavior

On my 29er, most recent batch, they are under the TT, at the 6'oclock position.

Complete bikes all have guides at 6 o clock. First batch of frames had them on the side. All frames/bikes to have at 6 o clock for now.

[juansevo]

Originally Posted by frankenbike

The decals are clear coated over, so they are not easily removable like the Surly frames.

I post this because there have been some comments disliking the "younger market" look of the Inbred graphics.

Mild. the graphics are hardly that much of a younger market look. Very respectable if you ask me. Not like it's Snoopy doing Garfield on the seat tube ya know. It's a cute inbred looking guy (with a full set of fingers) who looks like he drinks too much if that. I'm old and I hardly see it as "bad". :-D

[juansevo]

Dropouts will cost you $60 to replace because On-One USA doesn't stock them. I lost mine in shipping and that's what they are telling me it'll cost. Not fun. In comparison, Niner says a set of dropouts for the Sir (right/left) will be $12. My Ellsworth Truth is like $15 for a der hanger....and that's a $1900 frame.

If On-One USA changes it to say $20-30 for a set of dropouts, well that would be reasonable. Otherwise almost a 1/5th of your frame cost is dropouts. I speak highly of the rest of the build quality and such but this point is over looked. Hopefully On-One Usa (and UK) will see this and make amends. I think they are good guys and sure it was just an oversight. Afterall, the things are 6mm thick steal. :-)

[brant]

Originally Posted by juansevo

Dropouts will cost you $60 to replace because On-One USA doesn't stock them. I lost mine in shipping and that's what they are telling me it'll cost. Not fun. In comparison, Niner says a set of dropouts for the Sir (right/left) will be $12. My Ellsworth Truth is like $15 for a der hanger....and that's a $1900 frame.

If On-One USA changes it to say $20-30 for a set of dropouts, well that would be reasonable. Otherwise almost a 1/5th of your frame cost is dropouts. I speak highly of the rest of the build quality and such but this point is over looked. Hopefully On-One Usa (and UK) will see this and make amends. I think they are good guys and sure it was just an oversight. Afterall, the things are 6mm thick steal. :-)

I will get you a set of dropouts free of charge. I have no idea where they got $60 from, and will be taking it up with them.

[1-track-mind]

For a geared bike with Reba and mechanical disc brakes, is it best to wait for the next run of frames ?

[juansevo]

Originally Posted by brant@on-one.co.uk

I will get you a set of dropouts free of charge. I have no idea where they got $60 from, and will be taking it up with them.

Thanks Brant I really appreciate it. I've been piecing this rig together so another $60 was going to hurt. Thanks again.

[frankenbike]

Originally Posted by juansevo

Mild. the graphics are hardly that much of a younger market look. Very respectable if you ask me....I'm old and I hardly see it as "bad". :-D

I agree.

I thought it was funny when I read that post 2-3 weeks ago about how the poster didn't want to buy a Karate Monkey of an Inbred because of the youthful graphics. I like the graphics personally.

I like the Inbred name. I have English friends and they used to joke around about how the royal family looks messed up because of all the inbreeding, except for Prince William of course.

[frankenbike]

There is a thread by Nat that has Avids and a Reba on the current batch of frames.
His downtube clearance is tight even with the recessed Floodgate adjuster, but it's doable.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...ght=inbred+nat

[brant]

Originally Posted by frankenbike

There is a thread by Nat that has Avids and a Reba on the current batch of frames.
His downtube clearance is tight even with the recessed Floodgate adjuster, but it's doable.

And if you look, he's got a King headset in there.

1) King headsets are amongst the shallowest going - most others are 1-5mm taller.
2) King headsets can now be spaced out with that doofer that Ventana make.
3) We are working on a bunch of new headsets, but more on that in a bit.

[brant]

Originally Posted by frankenbike

The decals are clear coated over, so they are not easily removable

But equally, they won't fall off when you jetwash your bike.

[MMcG]

Originally Posted by frankenbike

On this first batch of Inbred 29er's, clearance is tight. The next batch of Inbred 29er's will have the downtube positioned higher at the headtube to make up for forks like the Reba. But for the for the first batch...

Possible solutions:

Cane Creek S3 Plus5 headset: http://canecreek.com/s3_plus_5.html
Bottom cup is 5mm taller allowing clearance of adjustment knobs
Available from AE Bike:
http://aebike.com/site/page.cfm?PageID=30&SKU=HD2268
Or you can have your LBS order from Quality. Part #HD2268



Chris King headset with Ventana crown
Ventana makes a taller crown that can be used with the CK headsets.

Another good option might be an FSA Orbit UH headset:

[Enoch]

I personnaly like the decals...

[Schmoe]

Originally Posted by brant@on-one.co.uk

And if you look, he's got a King headset in there.

1) King headsets are amongst the shallowest going - most others are 1-5mm taller.
2) King headsets can now be spaced out with that doofer that Ventana make.
3) We are working on a bunch of new headsets, but more on that in a bit.

Agree, Kings are shallow headsets. I've got a Cane Creek S2 on mine, with a Reba (w/ poploc) and it clears the downtube just barely. I don't see a need for the special Cane Creek headset to clear the adjusting knobs. Is it possible that there's some variation on this?

[frankenbike]

Originally Posted by Schmoe

...I've got a Cane Creek S2 on mine, with a Reba (w/ poploc) and it clears the downtube just barely....

What size is your frame, the 18 or the 21?

[WarPigs]

Hi Brant,
now that your 29er is featuring sliding droputs, are they strong enough to endure the stress of pulling a 53kg Burley Cub trailer (loaded with kids n stuff) by the skewers?

cheers

[Schmoe]

Originally Posted by frankenbike

What size is your frame, the 18 or the 21?

Well - I guess that might be the variation I was asking about. Sorry, that didn't occur to me. It's an 18" frame.

[frankenbike]

Perfecto! Thanks for adding the specific size.

[brant]

Originally Posted by Schmoe

Well - I guess that might be the variation I was asking about. Sorry, that didn't occur to me. It's an 18" frame.

If it clears on an 18in, it'll clear by more on a 21in.

Clearly it's a reba/inbred/king issue.

[RobW]

Off topic, but I just picked up a late model sand colored Kaffenback, and it's a project that will take a while to collect all the parts for. I'm just wondering what the official word is on the biggest tire I can fit.

[brant]

Originally Posted by RobW

Off topic, but I just picked up a late model sand colored Kaffenback, and it's a project that will take a while to collect all the parts for. I'm just wondering what the official word is on the biggest tire I can fit.

Let's not get off topic.

[1-track-mind]

As you continue to tweak the Inbred in future production runs, what effect will this have on your current pricing ? Also curious if you have the ability to ship frames directly from the production facility to consumers as they are made.

[FoShizzle]

Question: How do you like the On-One rigid fork?

Answer: From FoShizzle's experience, the fork is phenomenal. That is in comparison to having owned a Karate Monkey fork which by comparison, is MUCH stiffer than On-One's offering and has relatively zero compliance which is good for tracking at times but especially for a rider new to rigid riding is not a good idea.

The On-One fork in comparison can almost be felt to flex, but in a VERY good way. Not laterally at all....it is truly a remarkable fork and it looks awesome with its segmented look. I can highly recommend this fork for either experienced or "new to rigid" riding folks.

[FoShizzle]

Question: I am considering a complete bike and am wondering if there are any parts that I will want to upgrade immediately.

Answer: The parts speced on the "complete bike" are amazing in FoShizzle's opinion. They are VERY high quality and I was more than impressed.

For those living in a relatively mountainous area, I think the only part that you will likely have to swap out is the 18tooth freewheel. In doing so, you may find that once a 20tooth freewheel is put on, the chain may actually be too short to accomodate the 2 extra teeth (my experience). No big deal, just need a new chain which can be very cheap.

Though it is recommended to try it first, the other part I can imagine perhaps having to change is the stem since the length may be too short depending on your size.

It should be noted that you will need to supply your own pedals which of course is purely based on personal preference.

[FoShizzle]

Question: I am going to order the complete bike but want to run disc brakes. What do you recommend?

Answer: Since the prices for disc brakes are very good when you purchase the complete bike, FoShizzle would recommend you order those at the same time.

As far as converting to disc brakes, the hubs that come on the complete bikes are disc ready which is fantastic.

The cheapest but still very effective way to convert to disc brakes is to add the Avid mechanical disc brakes to the order. The Avid levers that come with the complete bike can be used with the Avid mechanical disc calipers which makes it a very easy process. You can then either keep the very nice Single Digit 5 calipers or sell them to offset the cost of the Avid mechanical disc calipers.

[FoShizzle]

Question: Not sure what frame size to get. I understand that there are objective and subjective considerations in determining the right size frame but am still interested in what you guys (and gals) are riding.

Answer: FoShizzle is a tad over 6'1", with about a 34.5" inseam. FoShizzle rides an 18" frame with a 120mm 0 degree rise stem with riser bars and the thing FITS LIKE A GLOVE! It literally feels perfect for me in all regards.



{perhaps others can add your info if you think it is useful}

[pseudo intellectual]

Originally Posted by MMcG

Another good option might be an FSA Orbit UH headset:

but the best option of all:
ORBIT XTREME PRO-STAINLESS

holy crap this thing looks cool and indestructable.

[pseudo intellectual]

are the frame and fork pakaged for purchase anywhere (like the KM)? Seems like they are sold seperately on webcyclery. just lookin for a deal... thx.

[FoShizzle]

Question: I want the best deal on a 29er single speed but know I really want disc brakes and Reba. Isn't the Rig the obvious choice since it comes with both disc brakes and the Reba?

Answer: No. While the Rig is arguably a very good deal, the only slighly additional cost of a disc brake and suspension equipped Inbred 29er make it no comparison in FoShizzle's book.

It will end up costing you approximately $170 more to have the far superior (based on FoShizzle'e opinion) Inbred 29er with disc brakes and Reba.

While there is variability typically in costs, the $170 extra comes from the following logic:

* Purchase of complete Inbred 29er about $990
* Addition of Avid mechanical calipers = $130
* Addition of Reba Race w/ Poploc = $299

However, you can sell the Single Digit 5 calipers you are replacing for say $25, and the awesome On-One rigid fork for say $125. This would put the total for a disc brake and suspension equipped 29er at $1269.

Cost of Rig is $1099 thus, the difference of approx. $170.

It should also be noted that the Reba you would get with the Inbred is going to be an upgraded Race model (vs SL on Rig) AND will include the remote Poploc, which the Rig will not.

[FoShizzle]

Originally Posted by pseudo intellectual

are the frame and fork pakaged for purchase anywhere (like the KM)? Seems like they are sold seperately on webcyclery. just lookin for a deal... thx.

not sure. however, I would also check with Pete at zedsport as he is the US distributor for On-One as i understand it. Pete helped get my complete bike and fork and was great to work with.

http://www.zedsport.com/pages/mountain/onone/

[1-track-mind]

Question: If I wanted the best deal on a SS 29er, why not just order a Redline Monocog at less than half the price of a Rig or Inbred ?

[FoShizzle]

Originally Posted by 1-track-mind

Question: If I wanted the best deal on a SS 29er, why not just order a Redline Monocog at less than half the price of a Rig or Inbred ?

Fair question.

By "deal", if you mean "cheapest", then of course the Redline is the choice. If somebody was brand new to both the single speeding thing and/or 29er thing, the Redline will be a very good choice indeed. Myself, I view "deal" as a cost/benefit ratio so cheapest can be very misleading.

So while it may be relatively cheap compared to the complete Inbred 29er (~50% cheaper using the $990 Inbred 29er complete bike price), it is in absolute terms gonna be probably about $400 cheaper so you decide.

I would venture to say that ALL of the parts on the Inbred are better if not MUCH better (eg, cranks on Inbred kick ass among other things).

So if you say that without a doubt you will be doing no upgrading and you want the cheapest bike, wait for the Redline.

But if you value one or more of the following attributes then again, there is no decision, get the Inbred:
* You want a bike that need literally ZERO upgrades; and/or
* You want a bike that is proven to be a phenomenal bike now by many riders; and/or
* You want a bike from a company that has a phenomenal reputation (not to take away from Redline) for quality products; and/or
* You want a bike from a company that provides INCREDIBLE customer service, to include very valuable input from Brant right here on mtbr.com; and/or
* You want a bike that has a ton of personality; and/or
* You want chicks to dig you more.

[Cloxxki]

Originally Posted by FoShizzle

Question: I want the best deal on a 29er single speed but know I really want disc brakes and Reba. Isn't the Rig the obvious choice since it comes with both disc brakes and the Reba?

Answer: No. While the Rig is arguably a very good deal, the only slighly additional cost of a disc brake and suspension equipped Inbred 29er make it no comparison in FoShizzle's book.

It will end up costing you approximately $170 more to have the far superior (based on FoShizzle'e opinion) Inbred 29er with disc brakes and Reba.

While there is variability typically in costs, the $170 extra comes from the following logic:

* Purchase of complete Inbred 29er about $990
* Addition of Avid mechanical calipers = $130
* Addition of Reba Race w/ Poploc = $299

However, you can sell the Single Digit 5 calipers you are replacing for say $25, and the awesome On-One rigid fork for say $125. This would put the total for a disc brake and suspension equipped 29er at $1269.

Cost of Rig is $1099 thus, the difference of approx. $170.

It should also be noted that the Reba you would get with the Inbred is going to be an upgraded Race model (vs SL on Rig) AND will include the remote Poploc, which the Rig will not.

Not very realistic. Who's going to buy your take-off levers for that much, and esepcially that fork for a couple bucks under retail?
Buy Rig at slight discount, $999 should be doable. Sell frame, easily get $250, buy Inbred frame for, what? $450? $1200 total.
Avid Discs don't come with levers BTW, so why sell the original ones which are fine?

[ZenRider]

Originally Posted by FoShizzle

Question: I am considering a complete bike and am wondering if there are any parts that I will want to upgrade immediately.

Answer:

For those living in a relatively mountainous area, I think the only part that you will likely have to swap out is the 18tooth freewheel. In doing so, you may find that once a 20tooth freewheel is put on, the chain may actually be too short to accomodate the 2 extra teeth (my experience).

Hey FoShizzle,

Thanks for the Q&A. BTW, what 20 tooth freewheel did you swap to?

I have an Inbred and am considering a 20 tooth and would like to know what other owners are using.

Zen

[Enel]

Don't forget the cost of upgrading the headset so the reba will fit: Cane Creek S-3 $50

[Enel]

Originally Posted by brant@on-one.co.uk

Clearly it's a reba/inbred/king issue.

Not really, Brant.

The FSA headset (orbit II) on your complete inbred does not clear the Reba with poplock. It may with the internal adjuster, but certainly not with the external.

[Cloxxki]

With this Q&A there's some actual room for other threads to feed on this forum.

Honestly I'm surprised this one's getting such quality replies. I was actually pissed (in a non-alcoholic sense) when I opened this one. 8 related threads in one day, WTF?

[1-track-mind]

Originally Posted by FoShizzle

But if you value one or more of the following attributes then again, there is no decision, get the Inbred:
* You want a bike that need literally ZERO upgrades; and/or
* You want a bike that is proven to be a phenomenal bike now by many riders; and/or
* You want a bike from a company that has a phenomenal reputation (not to take away from Redline) for quality products; and/or
* You want a bike from a company that provides INCREDIBLE customer service, to include very valuable input from Brant right here on mtbr.com; and/or
* You want a bike that has a ton of personality; and/or
* You want chicks to dig you more.

Looks like only one objective difference (better components) along with a bunch of subjective opinions. An Inbred here (eastern US) is gonna cost $1,000, RM tax included is $476.00. Are the upgraded Inbred components really worth an extra $524.00 ???
I do not dispute the value of customer service provided by On-one, but there is also some value in having the LBS assemble and service the bike.

[Guitar Ted]

I have the 18" Inbred 29" wheel frame, but no fork. I am under the impression here that Zed Sport is the only U.S. outlet for the fork, correct? Average price?

Second question. I understand that the Inbred fork has more offset than most suspension forks suitable for 29 inch wheels , correct? Is it disk only, or does it have brazed on canti studs? (I could look, but hey......as long as I'm asking!)

Thanks for putting up this thread!

[FoShizzle]

Originally Posted by Cloxxki

Not very realistic. Who's going to buy your take-off levers for that much

I did not say "levers", I said calipers. $25 is simply the going price I have observed on ebay for single digit 5 thus, the $25 value.

Originally Posted by Cloxxki

and esepcially that fork for a couple bucks under retail?

we can speculate all we want, I sold the fleegle bars within one hour for retail. so take another 5 bucks off if you want.....besides, I said approximate to meet the spirit of the point.

Originally Posted by Cloxxki

Buy Rig at slight discount, $999 should be doable. Sell frame, easily get $250, buy Inbred frame for, what? $450? $1200 total.

fair comment. but more of a hassle and same net result in my opinion.

Originally Posted by Cloxxki

Avid Discs don't come with levers BTW, so why sell the original ones which are fine?

I never said sell the levers, only calipers. The Avid levers that come with the complete bike would be used with the Avid mech calipers.

[MMcG]

Originally Posted by pseudo intellectual

but the best option of all:
ORBIT XTREME PRO-STAINLESS

holy crap this thing looks cool and indestructable.

I doubt that headset would work with many 29er headtubes ( which are generally shorter than 26er headtubes in most cases).

Also the lower stack height on the UF is more than this headset. And that's the key to Reba downtube clearance issues.

[Cloxxki]

My bad FoShizzle!

[FoShizzle]

Originally Posted by Cloxxki

My bad FoShizzle!

Cloxxki....definitely never have to acknowledge any disconnect with FoShizzle's opinion.

And thanks so much for starting this thread; this is really the kind of input that I think is very valuable for anybody out there considering a new bike/frame and you know much better than I that there are a lot of those folks right now.

cheers

[brant]

Originally Posted by 1-track-mind

As you continue to tweak the Inbred in future production runs, what effect will this have on your current pricing ?

If we made a geared only version of this frame, we could drop the price quite a bit. Like by maybe $50/$75 or more. The sliding dropouts are expensive. But I have no plans to do that with the current frame. Things like moving headtube/downtube intersections, and thickening chain tugs up have a tiny impact on pricing, so we're not looking at any increase (or decrease) in price, over the impact of the $$ and material costs.

Originally Posted by 1-track-mind

Also curious if you have the ability to ship frames directly from the production facility to consumers as they are made.

No ability or interest. Things like that always go wrong.

[brant]

Originally Posted by brant@on-one.co.uk

I will get you a set of dropouts free of charge. I have no idea where they got $60 from, and will be taking it up with them.

Me and my big mouth. What I'm going to do now is pretty unprecendented, but hey ho.

This is our cost pricing:-

Two sets of dropouts were shipped from the factory.
Cost of complete set of two dropouts, 2 chaintugs, 4 bolts and 2 disc spacers - $16.56
Shipping cost for 2 dropouts from taiwan - $34.50

So I've asked Pete to charge you $10 shipping for your lost dropouts, and I'll pay the rest. You got a deal.

[brant]

Originally Posted by WarPigs

Hi Brant,
now that your 29er is featuring sliding droputs, are they strong enough to endure the stress of pulling a 53kg Burley Cub trailer (loaded with kids n stuff) by the skewers?

cheers

I'm game if you are. I can't see why it shouldn't work - though several - how do I put this "larger" chaps - have had trouble with our minimal chain tugs "popping off" under extreme load.

I'm going to issue drawings for a "dummy plate" to be made to stiffen the chain tug. And a couple of other fixes which might help larger people. To give you some idea of the problem, it's been reported 4 times, and we've got around 500 frames with these dropouts in circulation now.

[brant]

Originally Posted by brant@on-one.co.uk

This is our cost pricing:-

Two sets of dropouts were shipped from the factory.
Cost of complete set of two dropouts, 2 chaintugs, 4 bolts and 2 disc spacers - $16.56

I should put the drawings online so if anyone else wants to make the parts, they can. Open source sort of thing :-)

[frankenbike]

Originally Posted by Guitar Ted

I have the 18" Inbred 29" wheel frame, but no fork. I am under the impression here that Zed Sport is the only U.S. outlet for the fork, correct? Average price?

Webcyclery has the fork separately for around $115.

[retard]

i recently .recieved my 29er inbred complete bike.with crankbros pedals it weighs 25.25lbs on my fish scale.i have been lurking here for about 2mos. and learned a lot.thanks everyone who posts here. my inbred is the best handling bike i ever had totally stock!!

[1-track-mind]

Originally Posted by retard

i recently .recieved my 29er inbred complete bike.with crankbros pedals it weighs 25.25lbs on my fish scale.i have been lurking here for about 2mos. and learned a lot.thanks everyone who posts here. my inbred is the best handling bike i ever had totally stock!!

Nice. At that weight,I assume it's a rigid SS.
What kind of terrain have you ridden with it ?

[retard]

Originally Posted by 1-track-mind

Nice. At that weight,I assume it's a rigid SS.
What kind of terrain have you ridden with it ?

Inbred is rigid ss.trails are primarily tite singletrack, hardpack, some mud and sandy spots.looks like snow today.cant wait

[FoShizzle]

Originally Posted by 1-track-mind

Nice. At that weight,I assume it's a rigid SS.
What kind of terrain have you ridden with it ?

thanks retard....yeah, the weight was a good point to call out. Mine came in at 25 lbs as well. It was no a crude scale (ie, not digital) and is with Hayes 9 hydro brakes but with some carbon riser bars that are about 1/4 lighter than the fleegles that came with the bike.

I have ridden my Inbred on very tight & steep singletrack which has many technical sections requiring me to accelerate QUICKLY if I want to clear the rocks and it works great.

The handling is superb.

[BruceBrown]

Originally Posted by brant@on-one.co.uk

If we made a geared only version of this frame, we could drop the price quite a bit. Like by maybe $50/$75 or more. The sliding dropouts are expensive. But I have no plans to do that with the current frame.

IMO, that's really too bad. I wish both you and Surly would also offer the frame in a geared only version with the rear dropouts. Plenty of us customers out there running these frames (because nothing else was available in lower cost steel production frames) as geared trying to tinker and mess with all the doo-hickies required to run them geared (monkey nuts, sliding dropouts, curse words, overtightened QR's, etc..). Sure, it can be done with the workarounds, but wouldn't it be nice to have a steel frame option from Surly and Inbred that runs geared without any nuts, bizarre screw on sliding dropouts, etc...?

At least Niner Bikes is coming out with a couple of frames targeting the geared customer base, but alas - they are not steel. They, too, like Surly and the On One offer a steel dual SS/Geared frame (Sir 9). However, I think they nailed it with their design because it doesn't require such odd doo-hickies to run gear. Just what looks like a normal bolt on derailleur hanger.

Anyway, as a geared customer - just my opinion. Maybe they wouldn't sell, but I imagine there are enough of us out there who want to run geared and will not ever be riding SS who would purchase a geared only frame with "normal" rear dropouts.

BB

[Guitar Ted]

Originally Posted by BruceBrown

IMO, that's really too bad. I wish both you and Surly would also offer the frame in a geared only version with the rear dropouts. Plenty of us customers out there running these frames (because nothing else was available in lower cost steel production frames) as geared trying to tinker and mess with all the doo-hickies required to run them geared (monkey nuts, sliding dropouts, curse words, overtightened QR's, etc..). Sure, it can be done with the workarounds, but wouldn't it be nice to have a steel frame option from Surly and Inbred that runs geared without any nuts, bizarre screw on sliding dropouts, etc...?

I agree, Bruce, this is a sorely lacking product in the 29"er marketplace. I can't see why someone can't put out a decent geared only, hardtail frame set or complete bike at the $500-$600 price point. Rigid fork, deore parts, and linear pull brakes. Should be do-able, and I think someone will soon!

At least Niner Bikes is coming out with a couple of frames targeting the geared customer base, but alas - they are not steel. They, too, like Surly and the On One offer a steel dual SS/Geared frame (Sir 9). However, I think they nailed it with their design because it doesn't require such odd doo-hickies to run gear. Just what looks like a normal bolt on derailleur hanger.

Trouble is, is that the bike isn't complete at a budget price, but yeah, Niner have definitely hit on all cylinders, so far.

Anyway, as a geared customer - just my opinion. Maybe they wouldn't sell, but I imagine there are enough of us out there who want to run geared and will not ever be riding SS who would purchase a geared only frame with "normal" rear dropouts.

BB

Oh, yes! They would sell! My belief is that if the product is dialed, and it's at the right price point, (see above), that whoever gets the bike out first will have a sell through on thier hands. Think "Karate Monkey-like" shortages!

[A_A]

I've got my 21" Inbred frame last week (to replace my karate monkey) finally got it together. Today seemed like a perfect day for a ride, 4" of new snow and 17 deg F.

I have no problem w/ the down tube clearance w/ the Reba & CK headset

[FoShizzle]

Originally Posted by A_A

I've got my 21" Inbred frame last week (to replace my karate monkey) finally got it together. Today seemed like a perfect day for a ride, 4" of new snow and 17 deg F.

I have no problem w/ the down tube clearance w/ the Reba & CK headset

wow! very nice pics and very nice build. i know there is keen interest in comparison versus the KM. You are the perfect candidate since the parts (I assume) are the same so any differences can hopefully more readily attributed to the frame.

cheers

[A_A]

Originally Posted by FoShizzle

wow! very nice pics and very nice build. i know there is keen interest in comparison versus the KM. You are the perfect candidate since the parts (I assume) are the same so any differences can hopefully more readily attributed to the frame.

cheers

I took all the parts off the Monkey and slapped them on the Inbred, same stem etc. It is hard to make many comparisons after 10 miles riding in the snow but as I get more saddle time I should be able to give some input. The reasons I got rid of the monkey was the usual stuff, rear dropout, downtube clearance w/ reba & low BB.

[Enel]

Looks like the 21" have better downtube clearance...Great.

What length is that stem?

[A_A]

Originally Posted by Enel

Looks like the 21" have better downtube clearance...Great.

What length is that stem?

thomson 90mm 15 deg

[frankenbike]

Nice looking build AA.

[Cloxxki]

I rode Hubert's 21" Inbred29 for a bit today. H-bars, 3spd derailer setup, Moots seatpost. Felt much like my KM (same bars), but a tad smoother for sure. Handling is weird. You know it's going to be quik, and yet you're surprised, for it isn't nervous! Offset is a good thing... Front wheel is not tucked under the toptube, yet it responds way snappy, in a controllable way. It feels "expensive". A custom bike can almost only disappoint after this experience, especially if you pay $1000+ for it.

I was an offset believer, now I am a devotee! RockShox, bring it on! Reba fork to On-One specs, por favor!

[FoShizzle]

Originally Posted by Cloxxki

A custom bike can almost only disappoint after this experience, especially if you pay $1000+ for it.

I agree.

While i have never had a true custom bike, I now have 2 bikes that have different geometry yet feel absolutely PERFECT and I would not change a thing...go figure...

As such, I can only speculate that (for me at least) the only reason to go custom at this point is for weight savings on a steel frame but then again, what are we talking, a pound? And if I really was interested in weight (which I am for some riding) I would simply get the exact same other 29er I already have (One 9 at 2 lbs less).

It is glorious to have such killer bikes now readily available. Perhaps I am just not sophisticated enough to appreciate a true custom but I do know I love the Inbred.

[WarPigs]

Originally Posted by brant@on-one.co.uk

I'm game if you are. I can't see why it shouldn't work - though several - how do I put this "larger" chaps - have had trouble with our minimal chain tugs "popping off" under extreme load.

I'm going to issue drawings for a "dummy plate" to be made to stiffen the chain tug. And a couple of other fixes which might help larger people. To give you some idea of the problem, it's been reported 4 times, and we've got around 500 frames with these dropouts in circulation now.

Hi Brant,
primary usage would be on roads, up and down hills. hehehe i would not be going offroad pulling the trailer, besides, its not recommended by Burley, n the tires are slicks.

As far as i know, skewers are not meant to have a force pulling on it, but then, i might be wrong. I did study a bit of design, so there might be additional safety factors added to the design of skewers which might accommadate this tugging and pulling force to the skewers by the designers.

well, i am not going to endanger the life of my kids any more than they are already in, so i guess i rather wait for more improvements to the sliding dropouts.

thanks Brant.

[KaiMana]

I have a complete 18" do I need to give it a dose of JP Weigle's Frame Saver?

[brant]

Originally Posted by KaiMana

I have a complete 18" do I need to give it a dose of JP Weigle's Frame Saver?

Have to? no.
Want to? Well, I'd guess yes.

I haven't.
I'm still riding my 6yr old 853 inbred with zero signs of corrosion.

If you ride it in the sea, or use it for road touring, I can see the point.

I know at some point I'm going to do something stupid like leave it outside a pub, unlocked, and have it stolen. So frame saver makes no sense to me.

[frankenbike]

I sprayed my Frame Saver into my frame. It can only help.

But with that said, I too have an road bike that I have been riding in the rain and locked outside overnite and it's just holding up fine for the past 10 years.

[Enel]

Linseed oil can do this job as well, and is quite cheap.

[Angus]

Originally Posted by pseudo intellectual

are the frame and fork pakaged for purchase anywhere (like the KM)? Seems like they are sold seperately on webcyclery. just lookin for a deal... thx.

I have seen a frame and fork combo on Ebay through BensBikes I think thyr'e in Wisconsin....

[Nat]

Originally Posted by brant@on-one.co.uk

I know at some point I'm going to do something stupid like leave it outside a pub, unlocked, and have it stolen.

OUCH! Still hurting?

[Nat]

Originally Posted by Enel

Linseed oil can do this job as well, and is quite cheap.

I wonder if WD40 would also work?

[Cloxxki]

I got lazy, and didn't spray my Surly's. One Thomson stuck right now. Wish framesaver was a common product here.

[the Inbred]

never put anything inside my Inbred. never had a stuck seatpost, either. as a matter of fact, my PX seatpost is smooth as a baby's ass and will not stop slipping.

--edit--

my bad, i thought this was in the SS forum.

[frankenbike]

I used WD40 as a kid in my BMX bikes, it did the trick.

I like On-One's choice to face the seatpost clamp and split in the seat tube forward. This is good for preventing splash from the tire to send water down the tube.

[Enel]

Originally Posted by frankenbike

Cane Creek S3 Plus5 headset: http://canecreek.com/s3_plus_5.html
Bottom cup is 5mm taller allowing clearance of adjustment knobs
.

Update, and FYI.

I installed an S3 plus headset on my 18" inbred last night, and the reba with remote poploc now fits with about 1 mm to spare (barely).

I also got around to installing a Rear Avid Mechanical BBDB. Required 5-6mm spacers between the frame and Avid bracket, and correspondingly longer brake hardware. Similar to a Cannondale I had (used the same rear hardware). Are there two international standards for rear brake mounts?

[frankenbike]

Originally Posted by Enel

... Are there two international standards for rear brake mounts?

There is only one international standand (IS).

The reason the Inbred needs longer bolts has to do with the rear sliding dropouts. The rear axle width spacing of a mtn bike is 135mm and the rear triangle (seat and chainstays) coincide with that.

But on the Inbred, there the two approx 5mm thick sliding dropout plates that sit inside the rear triangle. Since the axle plates needs to be 135mm wide, the seat and chain stays have to be wider so the plates can site inside properly. And since the IS brake mount is on the now wider seat stay, you need a 5mm to offset this and move the caliper inward to align with the hub.

Not all frames with sliding dropout plates require the spacers because some (Kona, Identiti) design their dropout plates with the IS mount on it.

[brant]

Originally Posted by Enel

I also got around to installing a Rear Avid Mechanical BBDB. Required 5-6mm spacers between the frame and Avid bracket, and correspondingly longer brake hardware. Similar to a Cannondale I had (used the same rear hardware). Are there two international standards for rear brake mounts?

You should have got 2 x 6mm spacers with your frameset. You clearly didn't. Longer bolts required - yes - but this is so I could make the disc mount and dropout in one piece, and ensure better alignment, less welds, and just nicer-to-make-ness.

[Enel]

Originally Posted by brant@on-one.co.uk

You should have got 2 x 6mm spacers with your frameset. You clearly didn't. Longer bolts required - yes - but this is so I could make the disc mount and dropout in one piece, and ensure better alignment, less welds, and just nicer-to-make-ness.

Oh, that's what those spacers were for .

I actually forgot about them. They were in a bag with the gearie drop-out and touch-up paint.

The paint is really a nice little touch (amongst many). Painted over where the Reba had damaged the down tube.

Anxiously awaiting the 19.5 inch frame to come. I'll be sad to let this bike go to my friend when the time comes.

I also took off the V-brake mounting hardware, then plugged the frame holes with the screws. Unfortunately The cable for the discs goes right over the heads of the screws.

Not a big deal, but it messes up the aesthetic a bit. Is there anything else that could plug the holes flush?

[Spokey-Doke]

Originally Posted by BruceBrown

IMO, that's really too bad. I wish both you and Surly would also offer the frame in a geared only version with the rear dropouts.

I understand why this was done . . . in the beginning. But the 29er frame sales are increasing to the point where geared and SS versions of a cheap frame can be offered. They will sell.

I don't want an EBB or sliding/horizontal dropouts on my geared bike. Likewise, I don't want a bunch of useless cable stops and a derailleur hanger on my SS. I like things clean and simple.

People like me have resorted to custom frames (wait list for my second Waltworks), but I would have gladly bought something off the shelf if it were available.

Complaining aside, my geared Karate Monkey still sees more miles than any of my bikes.

. . . and I want an Inbred, too.

[HiHoEskimo]

Just wondering if anyone else has measured the TT on their On-One. While the spec is 25.2 I am measuring (using a tape measure and level) more like 25.5. I have a Reba set a 80mm and the same wheels and tires front and back.

I get a similar discrepancy with the measurment of the TT on my carbon fuel (spec 24.6, measured 25) but when I measure my cross bike with the same method I get the correct length. Something to do with suspension forks?

**Disclamer** Yes I know this is really picky! Ordering a new frame and want to make sure I get the right size.

Thanks!

[shiggy]

Sounds like it may be your measuring method.

[HiHoEskimo]

Originally Posted by shiggy

Sounds like it may be your measuring method.

I was thinking the same thing untill, using the same method, the TT on my cross bike was spot on to the specs.

Maybe my bikes are just playing tricks on me. Pay back fro riding in the snow?

[Schmoe]

The standover numbers at On One's site are listed for the frame with their rigid fork. The standover they list for the 18" frame is 31.5 inches.

- The AC distance for the Inbred rigid 29er fork is listed at 470 mm.
- AC for the Reba in 80 mm travel mode is about 490 mm, for 100 mm travel it's 510 mm (there seems to be different numbers out there, these are from a post by Niner Bikes).
- AC for the WB 80 mm is 485 mm, 100 mm is 505 mm (from a post by Wily)

All the above number are pre sag and taken from others posts. My apologies if there are some mistakes.

Bottom line, if you run a suspension fork on the frame, particularly one with 100 mm of travel your standover clearance will be reduced. I measured the standover on the 18" frame with the Reba in 100 mm mode at 32". That's with a Cane Creek S2 and IRC Mythos 2.1 tires.

[Cloxxki]

You're measuring the bike pre-sag, it was designed post-sag. Put an inch-thick book under the real wheel and try again.

Isn't this something for the On-One questions and Answers thread? we ty to keep the number of On-One threads down. I may try a mind melt, errr, thread merge later on.

[juansevo]

Originally Posted by brant@on-one.co.uk

I should put the drawings online so if anyone else wants to make the parts, they can. Open source sort of thing :-)

You know I think that would be really kinda cool. I mean, why not? Is there a liability issue you'd have to worry about? I think you post design and material specs you'd be okay.

Good idea Brant.

[juansevo]

Originally Posted by brant@on-one.co.uk

Me and my big mouth. What I'm going to do now is pretty unprecendented, but hey ho.

This is our cost pricing:-

Two sets of dropouts were shipped from the factory.
Cost of complete set of two dropouts, 2 chaintugs, 4 bolts and 2 disc spacers - $16.56
Shipping cost for 2 dropouts from taiwan - $34.50

So I've asked Pete to charge you $10 shipping for your lost dropouts, and I'll pay the rest. You got a deal.

Once again thanks. Didn't need to do that.

[HiHoEskimo]

Thanks! The block under the rear wheel works.

I also then checked it with the stock on-one fork and get the correct measurement as well.

[motoman711]

Question: Does FoShizzle always refer to himself in the 3rd person?

[Cloxxki]

I love it when a plans come together.

[F5000sl]

Guys & Gals,
This is the thread that I have been looking for and can not believe that I've been missing it with all the posts and questions that I have been asking.

Most of my questions have been answered just by reading all these posts and by the way Brant has been kind enough to stick his head out and offer advice and questions is making this On-ONE brand seem like a winner.

No one local carries this bike, so my options are PricePoint and WebCyclery, both with in a few bucks of each other, $979 & $990, plus shipping, but WC offers a REBA upgrade for $250.00.

My only reason for not buying one right now is that I am still not convinced of sizing as I am only 5'10/11 with a 31" inseam and saw someone comment on being 6'1" and having the 18 fit them well.

Am I hearing correctly? Will there be a 16 or 17" option? Should I wait for that?

[Cloxxki]

Most bikes come in 2" size increments. That stands for 4" in rider height. Most riders seems to get a longer stem for their On-One, so you may well hit it off with the stock on.

[HiHoEskimo]

F5000sl, Nice to see you getting into the 29ers! I road with you a few years back at Lodi, the xc racer on a fuel although that probably fits many riders at Lodi

Frame size to height is not allways a given. I'm 6 feet tall and riding the 21" with a 100mm stem. Fits great and rides great. I do find I am a bit timid through turns as my body weight is not far enough froward with the short stem but the 18" would be way to short for me.

Watch out 29ers are adictive. It looks like I might switch over to 29ers for all but dirt jumping!

[F5000sl]

yeah, I remember you. I think you used to pop in the CCVA once in a while too.
Glad to see you are still around. Thanks for the advice.

I just test road a SOME Juice today and it was pretty nice. Still tall, even with the dropped TT and all, but the overall TT length was short for sure. It had a 120mm stem I think and I was feeling a little big for the bike. I might have to look into a 130mm stem, that would be crazy!

I am having a hard choice between the SOMA and ON-ONE, but the ON-ONE seems to be winning the battle, especially with Brant being nice enough to answer questions and such.

So are you on a ON-ONE yourself? How is it setup?
Opps, pm so we don't threadjack, or feel free to post it somewhere.