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Views on wide rims

5K views 31 replies 22 participants last post by  nicolasswid 
#1 ·
So for an elder view what do people think of wider rims?
My new Whyte came with ID29 rims and big heavy tires, I’ve upgraded to lighter tires.
I also have a set of Hope XCs with ID19.5, very light but look old school and I bet all the young guns would not touch them.

I run 2.3 tires, what have you guys done?
Narrow or followed trend and gone wider rims wider tires?
 
#2 ·
I’ve liked them whenever that’s been an option. It’s also part of why I liked Fargo over some other choices for commuting, touring and gravel grinding. I’m for control, reliability and comfort over letting my inner weight weenie talk.


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#4 ·
I've use both narrow and wide rims on the same bikes and I prefer wide rims. The wheels feel more planted and the tyres seem to grip better. The other benefit is that the rim will be stronger and less likely to buckle.

Big rims and tyres do add weight though and you do feel it.
 
#7 ·
Hey, Yeti.
Back in the long, long ago, I rocked skinny light tires and thought they were the shizz. Currently my setup involves rims with 35mm on the inside, and 2.5" tires.

I'm still amazed by the dramatic difference. Traction is nothing less than phenomenal. I can hit giant, rugged, off camber rocks, and stick like glue. Spinning on rugged uphills is greatly reduced. When riding too fast to adjust for obstacles, just maintain speed and bulldoze over whatever's in the way. It's way cool and I can't imagine going back to the old days. But with my previous rig, I was a monster on the uphills, and middle of the pack going down. Now I'm pretty good climbing, and shred the down. It's all about what you want to be. No one bike will be the best at everything.

The tire kind of has to match the bike, too. Parts should complement each other. Sticking fat tires on an XC bike or skinny tires on an enduro rig won't squeeze the best characteristics out of either.
 
#8 ·
I've always used wide rims.

There was a good case for narrow rims before box section rims became normal because a wide rim would be very flexy, but even then I believed the benefit of getting more volume was worth the compromise.

But I was never obsessed by ultimate speed, and was more interested in long distance comfort and offroad capability.
 
#11 ·
I'm now on 40mm WTB Scraper rims with WTB Bridger 27.5 x 3.0 tires. I fell in love with wide tires on a fat bike but wanted suspension given the harsh ride of a fatboy on rocky trails.

The plus tires on a narrower rim seemed to be too squirmy for me (35mm on a 6 fattie) so I went for a bike with 40mm rims. It is a great combo. Lots of confidence on rocky rooty stuff and traction galore. I ride a bit off trail also and wide tires are great off trail. The plus tires are also fantastic on loose sand and gravel. But, wider tires need wider rims or they squirm uncomfortably.

I've also noticed that there is none of the self steer I got on the fatboy with the 27.5 +. Now, when I ride the Fatboy, I'm bothered by the self steer unless I'm above 12 PSI. I'm going to sell the fatboy now that I've got the full sus plus bike - someone'll get a great bike with serious upgrades.
 
#13 · (Edited)
The benefit of wide rims is they enhance the volume of wide tyres, which in most cases is for the better.

I have a 1998 Surly 1x1. Initially I had it set up like any other 26" mtb with the prevailing fashion for narrow rims and 2.35" tyres. It was reasonably competent. Rigid mtbs had evolved to the point at that time where their handling was about right, and any changes since then have been basically to improve them with front suspension, which I do not use.

However I wasn't satisfied with its abilities over softer surfaces or the high pressures required to prevent snakebites on rocky tracks, so I built up a set of wheels using a pair of 1990s DH rims which were 40mm wide. That was much better and I ended up preferring to use the 1x1 over my much fancier and lighter racebike.

However with the advent of 29ers, the 1x1 ended up on the back shelf and my other 26ers disposed off. The 29ers bigger wheels were ideal for my sort of riding, especially as I don't ride with suspension. I considered getting rid off the 1x1, but by this time it was quite scruffy and worthless. I thought it might make a useful bikepacking bike because it was steel it had all the braze on mounts necessary.

Then along came plus size tyres from Surly. I fitted a set of Dirt Wizards (26" x 2.75"). What a transformation! The extra volume made the bike much better, and my 29ers were consigned to history.

The combination of the wide rims and high volume tyres gave the 1x1 most of the benefits of my fat bike but rolled as nicely as my 29er.

(I could of course have gone to 29er+, but that would have meant buying yet another bike, whereas the 1x1 had sufficient clearance for a 3" tyre already)

In short, wide rims do the opposite of suck. :)
 
#20 ·
Once again we have separated one more aspect of mtb tech from road bike tech.

Narrow rims were a roadie thing carried over to our bikes to save weight I guess.
We have learned much and continue to do so.

I don't view my I-35's as wide rims. I see them as the correct rim for my 2.8" wide tires. I didn't know my I-19's were too narrow for my 2.35" wide tires until I put on a set of I-28's and my bikes stability, handling and traction went through the roof.

Last time I looked at the wheels on a entry level $500 HT I saw what looked like I-30's and 2.35 wide tires..

It's time to stop saying 'Wide rims' the label is no longer needed.
We have learned that tire width and rim width are just a few of many factors in a proper tire wheel set up. For a given rider, discipline or trail condition..

Forward we go~
 
#25 ·
I rode RM17's and RM20's back in the day, but since 2008 I've really only ridden Sun Double-wide rims. I usually ride 2.3-2.6 DH casing or occasionally 2.35 DMR Moto Diggers, but I'm now building a Hugo 52 front wheel to test different tire widths. This is no fat bike mind you, just my do-it-all SS.
 
#30 ·
Before I got my squish last year, I had been riding rigids all my life. The latest rigid being a 2016 Stache 5.

I dug some of the handling characteristics of the + size setup so when I got my Tallboy last year I knew I wanted to check out something a little wider (than the stock setup).

I've got two (29) wheelsets I run on my Tallboy;

1) 27iw (Nobl tr33's) - with 2.4 (fr) and 2.35 / I use these for local trail quickness.
2) 30iw (Nobl tr36's) - with 2.6wt (fr) and 2.5wt / I use these for Pisgah, etc.

Now, I really wouldn't call 30's "wide" but I really like my wider combo, and tend to use this setup a bit more often than not. It's a little more forgiving, lending itself to more confidence, especially when I'm aggressively riding more difficult terrain (like ditched out descents).
 
#32 ·
My 2 cents with wide(r) rims.
On my XC hadtail bike.
I went from WTB i19 on the rear to Stans crest i23. Stans i23 is more like i25 for another brand because of their BST hookless system. So thanks to the hookless low profile BST system, it is possible to drop a few PSI with added comfort... works well (20-23 psi on my X-king 2.4).

On the front I changed from WTB i19 to ALex rims Volar 2.7. i27 mm(cheap rims but seems good). The diffence is obvious, with the i19 and 15psi (Nobby Nic 2.25) just with a single turn in road, you could notice the tire was deforming a lot (squirming) and the bike was not turning propoerly.

With i27 on the front and 15psi, I can turn and lean the bike the feeling is really better.
(15 psi is not my normal ride value, but that permits to show the diferences. I think I can go fro 20 psi to 18psi with the same turning feel and with better absorption performance).

I am not a very "sensitive" rider, so if I can feel it, there is really a change. the most dramatical was on the front.
 
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