Chain Lube Advice?

[anarawd]

It seems I have tried everything out there. White Lightning - Self Cleaning (doesn't live up to its claim), EPIC - All Conditions (except for those I ride in), Finish Line - Ceramic Reinforced (please). After about half an hour in the saddle my drivetrain looks like it has been through a tar machine. I have even resorted to 3 - IN - 1 SAE 30 electric motor oil. It's not bad and smells nice too! I'm just worried it may not be robust enough for the job. Do any of you fine trail riding folks have any suggestions? Please? Thanks!

[Circlip]

Lots of tips and strategies out there, and some run contrary to one another so you'll have to use your best judgement. Given that preamble, IMHO the biggest mistake with lubing chains that I see is too much lube, and/or leaving lots of lube on exposed areas of the chain where it isn't really going to do much good, and acts as a gooey attractant for all sorts of contaminants and debris. I could draw specific techniques for application into a long and drawn out affair but here's the Coles notes version;

1. Take your time and apply one drop on the top of each roller pin. Work in sections along either the top or bottom length, and then rotate chain to next section, but do so in a way that gives the lube time to sink down in between each roller/pin/plate with gravity before you rotate it.

2. Wipe off all exposed lube afterwards.

Anything else other than the steps above, and you may well be helping to keep your chain from getting rusty while on your rack driving home, but that's it. In terms of actual function that assists the performance of your bike while you are riding it, the only place where lube has any value is in between the moving contact surfaces of the rollers, pins, and plates i.e. where you can't see it anyhow. Any lube on parts of the chain that you can actually see is worthless, and attracts contaminants as described further above. It takes perhaps 1-2 more minutes than simply splashing lube randomly all over your chain.

I've found that the type of lube is much less important than the application technique, unless you're riding in very wet conditions including submerging your chain, where a thicker lube will have a bit more staying power although nothing will last more than a couple of hours max in these situations - if you're lucky. At that point when the lube is mostly washed out, your best hope is that at least the chain is not full of debris.

[jeffscott]

Originally Posted by anarawd

It seems I have tried everything out there. White Lightning - Self Cleaning (doesn't live up to its claim), EPIC - All Conditions (except for those I ride in), Finish Line - Ceramic Reinforced (please). After about half an hour in the saddle my drivetrain looks like it has been through a tar machine. I have even resorted to 3 - IN - 1 SAE 30 electric motor oil. It's not bad and smells nice too! I'm just worried it may not be robust enough for the job. Do any of you fine trail riding folks have any suggestions? Please? Thanks!

you are putting too much lube on....

[garage monster]

Aside from proper application technique, I will add that two of my favourites are

Pedros Ice Wax



and T9 Boeshield



They're both basically solvent-based waxes that end up relatively dry and do a decent job of not picking up every piece of dirt or junk they come across. I re-apply every few rides or immediately after a wet/muddy ride.

[Dutch]

Rock "N" Roll Extreme (Blue)...without a doubt. Long lasting and clean.

[rkj__]

First, I don't obsess about keeping my chain ridiculously clean. It gets dirty right away anyways.

Proper application is tremendously important. Too much, and you get a gunky mess - common error. Too little, and you get squeaky squeak.

As long as you don't use too much, you don't get a gunky mess, and running the chain through a rag gets it acceptably clean for me in many cases.

Lubes I use:

TriFlow. I like this lube for most rides that are not too long or wet.
FinishLine WET. I like this lube for long rides or wet rides.
Homebrew. I mixed paint thinner, motor oil, and a few different nearly empty bicycle lube bottles. It came out a little gunky, but should work well for winter road conditions. I use it on my commuter's $10 chain. Mixing up your own lube might take some experimenting for you to get something you are happy with, but could yield good results.

I've tried:
T9. It seemed fine.
FinishLine WAX. Works well for very short, dusty rides.
FinishLine DRY. Was not a big fan.

[anarawd]

Originally Posted by jeffscott

you are putting too much lube on....

I truly believed I was applying it sparingly. Perhaps I was wrong. Thanks for the good advice and the step-by-step guide Circlip!

Originally Posted by garage monster

Aside from proper application technique, I will add that two of my favourites are

Pedros Ice Wax


and T9 Boeshield


They're both basically solvent-based waxes that end up relatively dry and do a decent job of not picking up every piece of dirt or junk they come across. I re-apply every few rides or immediately after a wet/muddy ride.

I have heard good things about T9 and Ice Wax. I don't think my bikeshop carries either. I'll have to look elsewhere. Thank you!

[Circlip]

Originally Posted by anarawd

I truly believed I was applying it sparingly. Perhaps I was wrong. Thanks for the good advice and the step-by-step guide Circlip!

Who really knows? We're just guessing based on your description. One item I almost forgot:

3. As you are rotating the chain incrementally to access more links, give the front chainring, rear cog, and rear derailleur pulleys a little wipe too or else they just keep putting more lube back on the rollers.

[osokolo]

that no one is using ProLink - with MFR technology...

By far the best chain oil out of all that I tried, and I tried many of them. This is for dry conditions.

For wet conditions - Motorex Wet - the best.

Dammit, I may have just revealed the secret of my success...

BTW - haven't broken the chain in 2 years now, despite all my leg powa'

Originally Posted by anarawd

It seems I have tried everything out there. White Lightning - Self Cleaning (doesn't live up to its claim), EPIC - All Conditions (except for those I ride in), Finish Line - Ceramic Reinforced (please). After about half an hour in the saddle my drivetrain looks like it has been through a tar machine. I have even resorted to 3 - IN - 1 SAE 30 electric motor oil. It's not bad and smells nice too! I'm just worried it may not be robust enough for the job. Do any of you fine trail riding folks have any suggestions? Please? Thanks!

[Circlip]

Originally Posted by osokolo

I am stunned that no one is using ProLink - with MFR technology...

I am stunned that people believe one lube is markedly superior to another, or at least superior within a category (waxy, thick oil, thin oil, etc.)

Keep drinking that koolaid.

[JamieDavies]

Originally Posted by Dutch

Rock "N" Roll Extreme (Blue)...without a doubt. Long lasting and clean.

I agree rock n roll is the best lube ever. goes on like water but last forever.

http://www.rocklube.com/products_detail_extreme.html

[osokolo]

that a guy at the Crank the Shield had a different chain, carefully worked in for few days each prior to the race and changing them for each day in order to avoid breaking one...

Didn't help... He broke one...

Wrong lube - no mater how many drops you put on each link - it sucks...

Originally Posted by Circlip

I am stunned that people believe one lube is markedly superior to another, or at least superior within a category (waxy, thick oil, thin oil, etc.)

Keep drinking that koolaid.

[rkj__]

Originally Posted by osokolo

that no one is using ProLink - with MFR technology...

By far the best chain oil out of all that I tried, and I tried many of them. This is for dry conditions.

I've heard lots of good things about it. I'll probably try it one day.

[Circlip]

Originally Posted by osokolo

Didn't help... He broke one...

Last time before that was 9 years ago. Yes, it sucked.

[osokolo]

with this discussion, take a look at this thread about chain lubes...

take note of the guy coming up with a formula that calculates who knows what in order to prove his test results... insane...

http://forum.biketechreview.com/view...php?f=1&t=2211

Originally Posted by Circlip

Last time before that was 9 years ago. Yes, it sucked.

Could have been worse. Could have broken two...

[anarawd]

Originally Posted by osokolo

that no one is using ProLink - with MFR technology...

By far the best chain oil out of all that I tried, and I tried many of them. This is for dry conditions.

For wet conditions - Motorex Wet - the best.

Dammit, I may have just revealed the secret of my success...

BTW - haven't broken the chain in 2 years now, despite all my leg powa'

And just what is MFR technology? We are a society obsessed with acronyms and HOI (habit of initialization)

[osokolo]

Originally Posted by anarawd

And just what is MFR technology? We are a society obsessed with acronyms and HOI (habit of initialization)

http://www.progoldmfr.com/reviews.html

I don't think that MFR is some global abbreviation - sounds more like proprietary formula...

[anarawd]

Originally Posted by osokolo

with this discussion, take a look at this thread about chain lubes...

take note of the guy coming up with a formula that calculates who knows what in order to prove his test results... insane...

http://forum.biketechreview.com/view...php?f=1&t=2211

That is insane. I'll bet formula guy is a roadie!
I can glean from these tests that 3-IN-1 isn't such a bad choice afterall! Imagine!

[icy]

Homebrew. I mixed paint thinner, motor oil, and a few different nearly empty bicycle lube bottles. It came out a little gunky, but should work well for winter road conditions. I use it on my commuter's $10 chain. Mixing up your own lube might take some experimenting for you to get something you are happy with, but could yield good results.

I have made some homemade chain lube using transmission fluid thinned down and it works well. Remington gun oil (spray can) and Pro link are my favorite store bought lubes

[singlesprocket]

motorcycle/marine/industrial lubes work well also (fav is belray)... get ten times the amount at half the price...

http://belray.com/index.fsp

i've used chainsaw lube also...

the only thing you have to watch is that the lube doesn't eat your seals (hub, pulleys, bb), read
the fine print.

[tdotrider]

Last year I used Prolink and it worked quite well for me, this year I gave Pedro's Icewax a try and I find that it doesn't last nearly as long. Whereas last year I had to relube the chain every 6-8 rides, this year it's been every 2-3 rides. On the flipside, my drivetrain looks far cleaner this year than it did last...

[EvilScience]

I switched to Rock 'n Roll Extreme a couple of years ago and find that it works amazingly well for general Ontario MTB use - good chain life, low maintenance. Prolink is also good - I just happened to find a case of RnR on sale... This was after years of messing around with Ice Wax, White Lightning, and a plethora of wet lubes that all seemed to require more effort than I was willing to put in. The RnR does not survive muddy 'cross conditions, though. For that I have been prefering the Finish Line Wet.

On the road I prefer the Finish Line wet Ceramic formula. So very very silent and smooth. I may try it for cyclocross, but it is a little pricey.

Its not so much that these are worlds apart from other lubes (except perhaps the ceramic formula), they just suit my quick and dirty methods of application, irregular cleaning, etc... I'm certain that used appropriately, pretty much anything would work fine.

[velociped jones]

they don't seem to have much of a presence on the internet but i've been using a.t.b. (absolutely the best) chain lube for over a year now and have been very pleased with the results.

[wankel]

Synthetic Motor oil + Mineral spirits in a 50:50 ratio. I just give my chain a quick wipe before (or after) every ride and quickly apply lube. Then run through a rag again a few times. Works great and is cheap. Works better if you do this AFTER your ride, of course.

[RatchAttack]

I've had lots of luck with ProLab lube. Seems to work great, I clean and reapply each ride.

[SSteve F]

I have had a great deal of success with homebrew (gear oil/mineral spirits). This spring, I tried a sample of Chain-L. I have to admit, I thought the claims were BS, but I have to say the stuff works.

Takes a little longer to apply, but lasts sooooooo much longer than anything else I have tried. I believe a shop in Toronto now carries it.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...hlight=Chain+L

[Draystex]

Been through them all, most suck, don't live up to claims. Best of the bunch are Rock N' Roll Extreme (blue bottle) and ProGold Prolink. Put em on, wipe them off (the most important step to avoid gunk with any lube) and ride. Don't expect any of the "dry" lubes to work if gets really wet though. Wet lube is the only thing that'll hold up in really wet conditions. Although I have heard that the Brits (and they know wet riding) like Purple Extreme - haven't been able to find it here though.

[anarawd]

Check this out! Where can I buy one?

[LuMach]

I use spit

[anarawd]

Originally Posted by LuMach

I use spit

Good choice!

[Braids]

Originally Posted by anarawd

It seems I have tried everything out there. White Lightning - Self Cleaning (doesn't live up to its claim), EPIC - All Conditions (except for those I ride in), Finish Line - Ceramic Reinforced (please). After about half an hour in the saddle my drivetrain looks like it has been through a tar machine. I have even resorted to 3 - IN - 1 SAE 30 electric motor oil. It's not bad and smells nice too! I'm just worried it may not be robust enough for the job. Do any of you fine trail riding folks have any suggestions? Please? Thanks!

Am I the only person in the world who likes White Lightning?

[rkj__]

Originally Posted by Braids

Am I the only person in the world who likes White Lightning?

It smells bad.

[i1dry]

Originally Posted by osokolo

that no one is using ProLink - with MFR technology...

By far the best chain oil out of all that I tried, and I tried many of them. This is for dry conditions.

For wet conditions - Motorex Wet - the best.

Dammit, I may have just revealed the secret of my success...

BTW - haven't broken the chain in 2 years now, despite all my leg powa'

I agree with Osokolo, ProLink Gold is the way to go. http://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prolink.html

You can pick it up at MEC or order it from them on-line and they will mail it to you.

I like it for both wet and dry conditions.

With the bike upright, I apply it liberally between the cassette and cranks while spinning the chain. I put a rag on the ground to catch the excess. Once the chain is liberally coated, I continue spinning for a minute or so more, then wrap the rag around the chain while spinning to remove the excess and clean off any dirt that the lube sheds. Then ride.

If the chain is really dirty, I repeat the above. I apply more often if it's wet. I also use it to lube cable housing.

i1dry?

[osokolo]

I do it almost the same way - except I dont keep the bike upright... just in my bike stand etc.... rag underneath is always there anyway...

I do clean/lube the chain for EVERY ride or race or for every lap of the multilap race etc...

works for me...

PS Shimano guy told me if muddy conditions are anticipated - cover the rings with thin layer of grease in order to avoid mud sticking to it... Tried it for the last day of CTS and though it was not muddy - I think that this may work - despite my initial feeling (grease attracts mud - right?)...

Had to do this as I lost chainsuck protection plate on the chainstay - on my carbon bike... Didn't have any chainsuck on day 3... Go figure...

Originally Posted by i1dry

I agree with Osokolo, ProLink Gold is the way to go. http://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prolink.html

You can pick it up at MEC or order it from them on-line and they will mail it to you.

I like it for both wet and dry conditions.

With the bike upright, I apply it liberally between the cassette and cranks while spinning the chain. I put a rag on the ground to catch the excess. Once the chain is liberally coated, I continue spinning for a minute or so more, then wrap the rag around the chain while spinning to remove the excess and clean off any dirt that the lube sheds. Then ride.

If the chain is really dirty, I repeat the above. I apply more often if it's wet. I also use it to lube cable housing.

i1dry?

[Circlip]

Originally Posted by osokolo

PS Shimano guy told me if muddy conditions are anticipated - cover the rings with thin layer of grease in order to avoid mud sticking to it... Tried it for the last day of CTS and though it was not muddy - I think that this may work - despite my initial feeling (grease attracts mud - right?)...

That's similar to the way some of the pro road mechs prep chains for their riders. They first do the regular oiling, to get penetration in between all the contact surfaces, and afterwards finish the job with a light coating of grease to "seal" the oil in between the rollers and pins so that's it's more resistant to getting washed out by water.

I've never been brave enough to try it on MTB though, figuring that that it will attract debris and contaminants as you theorize above. I might give it a whirl for casual riding sometime this winter though to see what I think. Could be all in the application. I will bring a little rag with me just in case it doesn't seem to be working out.

[Braids]

Originally Posted by rkj__

It smells bad.

So does cabbage cooked, but people still eat it.

Anyway, never had a problem with WL and I've been using it for years. I follow the directions on the bottle and it does fine by me. Bike shifts well and goes forward when I pedal.

Trying to figure out the WL hate.

[osokolo]

Originally Posted by Braids

So does cabbage cooked, but people still eat it.

that is an outstanding observation... I am just concerned that some forum members don't take it to the next level.. You know what I am saying...

[Braids]

Originally Posted by osokolo

that is an outstanding observation... I am just concerned that some forum members don't take it to the next level.. You know what I am saying...

I don't think it would make a good chain lube, but if anybody wants to try please post results.

[osokolo]

Originally Posted by Braids

I don't think it would make a good chain lube, but if anybody wants to try please post results.

[SSteve F]

I asked a man of the cloth, what he thought the best chain lube was...."Lettuce Spray" was his reply.

[anarawd]

Originally Posted by SSteve F

I asked a man of the cloth, what he thought the best chain lube was...."Lettuce Spray" was his reply.

Very cerebral indeed!