DIY Dinotte Style

[p97z]

I used some parts from Lowes to create a Dinotte style 200L.

1. Hollow 1" Aluminum round tube. Not 3/4" like the picture shows.
2. Nibco 3/4" brass plug
3. Bar end plug from Cinelli handlebar tape

I AA'd a Cree LED to the brass plug and then AA'd the brass plug to the inside of the Aluminum tube. When the Arctic Alumina (AA) dried, I used some black RTV to seal the front lens and the tail plug. The handle bar plug end fits perfect inside the brass Nebco fitting.

I can't wait to try it out!

[rockymtnway]

Nice. Very clean looking finished product.

[Popper252]

Very cool looking light!

I have a few questions if you don't mind.
What driver and battery are you using?
Seeing that it's only 3.7volts you could probably power this thing with some fairly cheap batteries.

Another question, where did you get that "rubberband" to hold the light to your bars? I was thinking maybe one of those old vacuum cleaner belts or something.

Did you have to file down the end of that copper slug to get it to fit inside the housing? In the interest of saving weight you could probably cut that thing in half and still have plenty of surface area for heat dissipation.

[hideano]

any big hardware store will have a large selection

its an o-ring. there are many many sizes metric and US..

[p97z]

I'm using a buck/boost converter from Sandwich Shoppe.
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...roducts_id=961

I'm using a spare o-ring from my Dinotte and 4 AA batteries for power. I did have to file down the end of the copper slug. It's a tight fit so it works out perfect.

If i make it any smaller then I don't think it will fit well on the bars. It's a little shorter then my 200L. My 200L doesn't move at all while riding so I hope this DYI setup is the same.

[mofoki]

I'm interested in that copper plug. Is that the heatsink? Where did you get it? If that is solid copper I could push a K2 to the 1500mA they say it will do. Does everything size good for a good fit inside that tube you're using?

[Popper252]

What driver would you use to push the K2 emitters to 1500mA?
The most I've seen is a 1200mA driver.

[p97z]

Here's a poor diagram showing how it fits together. It's a tight fit! The copper plug is hollow so the driver fits inside. The diameter of the housing is the same size as the bar end plug.

[smacmillin]

I've been looking for a compact design for a single Lux III tail light and this would work great! A couple of questions:

1. What optic did you use?
2. Did you use a star?

[p97z]

I'm going to make a tail light next. This came out better then I expected.

1. I used a Cree 8 degree 20mm optic. Any of the 20mm or smaller optics will fit perfect.
2. I used a Cree LED mounted on a star. The star fits perfect without any filing.

[jims]

p97z,

Very nice! That has got to be one of the simplest and most effective led DIY's I have ever come across. Thanks for posting so much info.

[rockymtnway]

I'd like to see you use one of those triple Rebels with this design. 300 lumens @ 350ma or 540 lumens at 700ma would seem to be the ideal single LED to use for a compact headlamp. Still, sourcing optics is a bear and I'm having to modify optics to get what I want. Something to think about though...

[p97z]

Thanks jims!

I'm making another one and this time i'll post more pictures.

[brum]

Originally Posted by rockymtnway

I'd like to see you use one of those triple Rebels with this design. 300 lumens @ 350ma or 540 lumens at 700ma would seem to be the ideal single LED to use for a compact headlamp. Still, sourcing optics is a bear and I'm having to modify optics to get what I want. Something to think about though...

Not enough mass and surface to accomodate 3 LEDs at higher currents.

[mofoki]

The Shark driver can be altered to push up to 2 amps. Heatsinking is the issue. Read in the Candlepower forums.

[p97z]

1. Cut the hollow Aluminum tube to 2 inches.
2. The copper plug is a little too big to fit in the aluminum. Use a rough file or a Dremel to remove the outer lip.
3. The Aluminum housing needs a way to sit on the handle bars. Cut a round grove in the bottom using a round file or a Dremel with a round sanding attachment. Align the grove so the housing is centered. For over sized bars you may need to make the grove larger.

[p97z]

4. Put two small groves in the top of the aluminum housing using a small round file. This will keep the rubber mounting o-ring from slipping.
5. Sand the housing using some fine sand paper. You can polish it if you want.
6. Align the LED in the center of the copper plug. I'm using a Seoul with an L2 optic. It's easier to use a star because you only have to drill one hole.
7. Epoxy (Arctic Alumina) the LED to the copper plug. I also use silicone RTV to keep the wires from shorting against the copper plug.

[p97z]

8. Secure the optic holder to the copper plug. I let a little dry on the sides of the holder to make a snug fit. The L2 optics are a little smaller then the housing.
9. Mix some AA adhesive and apply a thin coat to the copper slug. Slide the copper plug in the aluminum housing and let dry. Leave enough room at the front to allow a bead of silicone.

[p97z]

10. Wire your favorite driver and insert the bar plug.
11. Put some silicone on the front lens and your done.

[cdn-dave]

Hey, now we all have a use for the leftovers when we shortened our handlebars!

[msxtr]

Hi, solder you the leds directly to the copper?? Where you put the constant current circuit??

Great job.

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr

[Homebrew]

SWEET!!! I need to go to HomeDepot ASAP!

[p97z]

Originally Posted by msxtr

Hi, solder you the leds directly to the copper?? Where you put the constant current circuit??

No! The LED leads are not on the copper... I soldered wires to them then used silicone to keep them from shorting on the copper. The circuit is right in front of the zip tie. I use the zip to as a strain relief just in case the battery wire gets pulled.

[mofoki]

Eat that Niterider. You're probably going to get more light out of your home-build than those Niterider MiNewt lights if you drive the leds right. Good job fella.

[p97z]

Originally Posted by cdn-dave

Hey, now we all have a use for the leftovers when we shortened our handlebars!

Now there's an idea!

[p97z]

It's amazing what a Dremel and some aluminum polish can do! I can almost see myself in the reflection!

[eddielee70]

That look great, from two meter away, you can't tell if that is really dinotte or not. great info.....thanx

[p97z]

Thanks! Now, if I could only drill some holes in the top...

[BigBlue]

I love the light. A few questions. Where did you purchase the cree optic from? Do you have an on/off switch for the light? Also, since I'm not an electrical engineer, how is the power connected to the buck/boost? Where does the + and - lead connect? Sorry for the dumb questions.

[VaughnA]

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on enough parts to build a few of these for me and a friend. I think I've got it figured out. I'm going with Cree stars and 800ma drivers from Dealextreme.

I'm looking at the Following parts for Optics and Holders. I'm having problems figuring out what optic and holder goes with what LED. Are these correct for this project? Should I go with 15 or 5 degree optics? I'm thinking I'll run two on the bar, one of each.

Luxeon III or V Star Optic Holder
20 mm 5 Degree Optic
20 mm 15 Degree Optic

I'm planning on adding a switch on the back and use my current 6V battery for them.

[p97z]

If I can build this then anybody can... there is no such thing as a dumb question to me!

I got the optic from a group buy on CPF but you can get the same one here.

http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Produ...px?TranID=1488

It's a little bigger than the aluminum housing so you'll need to sand the edges to make it fit. It makes a great spot beam with little side spill. It would make a great helmet light. On the bars i like a spot with a flood.

I've played with optics and my preference is 1 CREE with the 8 degree optic and 2 Seoul with 15 degree L2 optics. I have only done a short ride with the two lights i just built and the spot flood combo is great!

For converter boards I used the Buck/Boost @ 1 amp from Sandwich shop.

http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...roducts_id=961

I tested runtime using 2 Duracell 2650mAh AA NiMH batteries and the ran one hour and 40 mins of "useable" light. You could get some long runtime with this battery.
https://www.all-battery.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=1143

For the switch... i put it in the power cord. There is enough room to put a switch in the light but I didn't have a small one handy. At some point I will probably pull the bar plug out and add one.

[p97z]

No! You can't use the Cree led's with the L2 optics! You need to use Seoul stars with the L2
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445

I don't see the Cree 8 degree optic that I used at DealExtreme...

So you plan on running four of them? If so, you may want three with the 15 degrees and one with the 5 degree. The nice thing about making these lights is that you can pop out the optic and see which combo you like.

If you stick with the Seoul LED's and the L2 optics i think you'll be happy.

[VaughnA]

I'm confuzzled trying to figure out which optics and holders go with which LEDs. Is there a place on the web that explains which one goes with which? If the Seoul Use L2, which ones do the Cree's use? I thought it was the L3.

Thanks for the help in answering my stupid questions. I was hoping to get everything from dealextreme but it looks like they are out. I'd consider going with either Seoul or Cree if I could get the optics and drivers to match from dealextreme.

[p97z]

Cree takes a special optic designed for the Cree led. Seoul came out after cree and claimed to be a Luxeon replacement. I've been happy with the L2 and Seoul's.

One of the hardest things about building your own light is finding where to get the components. It's hard to find one place that sells everything you need.

http://www.kaidomain.com has some good stuff also. I see he has some multi mode drivers that you could play with.

[p97z]

Probably the best place on the web to get the information is through Candle Power Forums.

www.candlepowerforums.com

I found the optics I like through trial and error... and lots of error!

[VaughnA]

Is this the optic you used? KaiDoman has them 10 for 9.99

8 Degree Optic

If this is it then I'll get the Q5 Stars and drivers from dealextreme and the optics from Kai and I should be good to go. Thanks for all of the help with this.

[p97z]

That's the right optic for the Cree but it doesn't have much flood. I think you'll want to mix that 8 degree with a Seoul and a 15 Degree L2.

Do you have any Arctic Alumina epoxy? If not get it from here http://www.ledsupply.com/asta-7g.php and get a few L2 15 degree optics with holders.

[VaughnA]

I'm going to get the epoxy which I new about. When you keep mentioning L2 Optics I don't see them at LED supply. I see Luxeon K2 on this page is that it. Do you have a link to the correct optics? I'm trying to go cheap and can't find a nice simple cross reference for optics and LED's.

[p97z]

Oh... Sorry, I wasn't clear. The optics for all the Luxeon LED's are the same. The optic snaps into the holder. The holder is different for each Lux.

You posted the correct links above.
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php is for the wide beam.
and the Lux III holder
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php

You can use them with the Seoul.

Edit: They mention at www.ledsupply.com that they are called L2... I can't seem to find it though.

[VaughnA]

Thanks, in that case I think I'll go all Seoul to save a few bucks. Thanks for all of the help.

[p97z]

I agree... I think you'll be happier with the Seoul over the Cree.

[eddielee70]

problem with seoul from dealextreme is that they are not white in color like their Q5 are. even though they say it's color bin: SW0 - pure white), but it's not. I'm waiting on a order from Kaidomain to see if they are pure white.
remember the 800ma $1.50 driver are driven at 1000ma at even 6v to one led, so you will likely have heat issues, unless you live in a cold climate and moving. do some indoor fan test for full 10 hours before you go out. unless you like to bike in the dark.
also http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Produ...px?TranID=1603 for q5 are very narrow bright spot.

[VaughnA]

I know about the higher drive current for the driver. I'm going to give these a try, if I have heat/durability issues I'll go for another lower power driver. I'm usually moving for my rides and I'm going to take me chances.

I've ordered the Seouls, drivers and optics. I'm now in waiting mode to receive the parts.

[eddielee70]

have fun waiting, usually it's 3-4 week for stuff from dealextreme and kaidomain, here is what happen when you have overheating. it doesn't have overheat protection. it just go pop, light out and you smell the resister burning inside the housing.

[VaughnA]

I've dealt with Dealextreme for a couple of years and I know how long it will take. And if Achesalot is running the Seouls at 1000ma in his lights without a problem I don't think it will be a problem for me!

[p97z]

One nice thing about having multiple lights with separate drivers. If one goes out, there are a couple more lit. Where I ride the temperature is around freezing. I don't have any problems overheating.

[VaughnA]

Same here, It's cold on my night rides and I'm always moving. And your design has a good bit of thermal mass with both the aluminum and brass fittings. If it looks like they are too hot in testing I'll add an R/C car Heatsink to them. I doubt that will be a problem.

[mofoki]

I have to dissagree with the Seoul's being better than the Cree's. I have three tripple systems that I run at 1000mA, one Seouls, one Crees, and one Luxeon K2s. The Crees put out the most light and a fairly white light. The K2s don't seem to be as bright but I like the color, and the Seouls start out with a white simular to an HID but quickly loose intensity and give a really bluish tint. The Cree's seem to need a stronger battery too. I can run the Seouls and K2s with an 11.1v pack but not the Crees. I need the 14.8v pack to run it. They all use the bFlex driver. Maybe if I get some time tonight I'll take some beam shots and post them.

[eddielee70]

I agree with mofoki on the led. SSC lost their color or not as white as Q5. the good thing about SSC u-bin is that their color stay the same "off white" for the 3 hour test I've ben doing. and they are half the price of Q5. Q5 stays white, I guess you get what you pay for. Where is Cree made at. SSC are made in Korea, right? lens for SSC are $1.75 from ledsupply. good optic for Q5 cost $3 plus expensive shipping from led-spot.com. anyone get optics cheaper? looking to build the cheapest, brightest 3 hour light with minimum work on housing under $80 with battery/charger.

[p97z]

I've had hit and miss luck with the Souls. With the Cree's however I haven't had good luck with optics.