Do not use -218 quad on the air piston and the rebound needle does not use a -008 o-ring.
Can you provide a little more detail on why a -218 won't work on the air piston? The -008 is not for the rebound needle, it is for the Motion Pro fill needle fitting (see previous post).
Originally Posted by tacubaya
If you use a -218 is is likely that air will leak into the negative chamber in the near future, this is why Fox made a custom quad ring after the wave of Float stuckdowns back in 2006.
Originally Posted by ktm520
Thanks tacubaya. So, I assume a -219 would be too big.
The -110 in 70 duro will be short lived. At a minimum, either tun a Quad ring or a 90 duro buna.
Fax has had several variations on the air seal theme. Quads are your better choice, but honestly, for the inexpensive seal kit, why not just put the Fox seals in and be done for a while.
Having rebuilt these and other Fox bicycle and moto products since long before seals were offered by Fox to the consumer, I have tested everything you propose, it will work and work well, just not as good or as long as the special Fox seals.
Thanks for the info PMK. I agree, the Fox air sleeve kits are a good deal considering, but I figured why not save a few bucks since I was already ordering seals anyway.
The reason I chose polyurethance for the shaft -110 was due to a Fox seal head assembly drawing I found and the seal in the shock I tore down was tan in color. I'm not an oring expert so I'm not sure of the difference between a buna 90 and a polyu 90, but I'm sure the buna is cheaper.
RP2 Float DRCV
I've read this thread and some others on the net ,got a bad surprise with my RP2. It was leaking air, just air, something like 100psi in 3 days.
I ordered a seal rebuilt kit and opened the can.. i was changing the seals when suddenly some oil with bubbles comes from the propedal lever, i mean not just a drop... more like a small eruption.. (got a picture if someone want to see), it went out without a lot of pressure.
Don't really know what i've done that started this, twisting the internal can ? Moving the propedal or the rebound lever .. ?
Anyway, i've untightened the nitrogen chamber screw... and there was near no air in it.
Now i need you.. :)
1 - I suppose that the (A), see picture, is dead... m i right ? Or can the oil (and nitro) go from the internal chamber to the lever throught an other way ?
2 - I suppose.. again.. that the IFP seal is dead, because of the mixture of oil/bubble that flow throught the lever. m i right ?
3 - Where can i found the seals for the IFP
4 - The o-ring A, does it comes in a kit..? If no what are its specs ?
5 - How many people here fit a Schrader valve with good results ? Does it held the 400psi ? Why do they put a system with needle, what are the advantages of it ? Less expensive ?
Thanks for your help.. :)
4 of my fox shocks I have made schrader valves for. Absolutely no issues holding at 350 psi so far. Been several years for a couple of shocks since charging the ifp.
@ 1niceride : Nice, tommorow i will try with a tractor schrader valve, a 'standard' valve is too small and rebuilding a 'thread' on it is not a viable solution. The tractor one got a 'standard' side and a bigger side that seems of to build the correct 'thread', the one that is on the Fox suspension (RP2)
This is the part :
1 - Remove the o-ring
2 - Shave the bottom thread and get the diameter to 8mm
4 - Create the new thread in place of the old one
I get these part for free cause thay are throwing them away when changing tires... :)
1niceride, are you using air in place of the nitrogen ? No problem, no mixing with the oil... ?
Air from your hand pump is 90% nitrogen. There is a separation piston called the ifp that keeps the oil out of the compensation chamber. The shock body is 5/16x24.
To be exact there is 75% of nitrogen in the air, 21% of oxygen and the rest in various gases.
Originally Posted by 1niceride
I've builded the valve today and will try it under pressure tommorow.
If you've got that :
Then one o-ring is blasted...
1 - I opened the RP2 completly, the smallest o-ring... the one that is just above the one labelled B
Is dead... i can not even find it, it is 'broken' in multiple parts... did someone got the specification of this ring..?
The central hole is something like 2.7mm
2 - Plus... i've lost the small ball that is on top of the central needle... someone got an idea wher i can find one ...? I thought of a bic pencil ?
I've finished my fork (F-serie RL 120), open bath... it took 30 mins, very easy job.
O-ring spec: .050 C.S. x .154 ID
Originally Posted by Honusnap
FOX P/N: 029-05-105
Tricky little bugger to insert
Thanks for your time, but it seems that you gave me the A ring .. no ?
I'm talking about the C on this picture
If i'm not mistaken it should be something like 2.7mm ID
I suppose that the dimension you gave me are in inch ?
.050 C.S. x .154 ID => 1.27mm C.S. x 3.9116mm ID => Way too big... :)
Or perhaps i missed something ?
I used your reference to search on the web and found a russian website talking about the subject, and certainly found the one i need :
FOX : 029-08-043 / 2,5mm ID x 1mm CS, Ring rod rebound
Did someone have the diameter of the metal ball just above the C ring ? should be something like 1.2, 1.3 .. 1.4mm..
i'm having a hard time finding this particular size o-ring anywhere..did you buy it from fox?
My bad... I really need to be a little more observant when looking at schematics :)
Here's the specs: 2.5mm ID X 1mm CS
I doubt FOX will help you with ordering new seals, however, there are ALOT of companies online that will be more than happy to sell you a few. Do a quick Google search in your area... you'll find them :)
Originally Posted by adamantane
There is a store not far from me, going to check if they sell this ring.
I found this seller... it's a 25 rings package .. :) they are Nitrile ring like the stock one.
eBay | BLACK RUBBER O RINGS METRIC 2.5 ID x 1.0MM THICK x 25
@cort : No problem, it kind enought of you to have look the spec to help me out.
Seems that the schematics you post is not for my shock but i suppose this ring is the same as mine. I got a DRCV RP2 (2010), mine got a second air chamber on the top. Looking at your shcematic i can see that the metal ball i need is 1.5mm ... :)
Ok found the ball, dismantle an old hard drive and found a 1.4mm ball in a small ball bearing, it seems to fit well... :)
sorry, i'm talking about this one .050 C.S. x .154 ID => 1.27mm C.S. x 3.9116mm ID
Originally Posted by cort
kind of a wierd size and since it would take a full rebuild to get in there and change it again if it were wrong, would help to have the perfect one the first time...any ideas where to find it?
Something wrong ...
Everything is in place .. two problems
1- Propedal do not work anymore, on or off.. can't see the difference
2 - The rebound works only a little AND seems to only work on the last half part of the travel.
Here is my shim / washer / belleville assembly .... can somebody spot a problem ..?
RP2 7.25x2.00 from a Trek Fuel EX 8 2010
Ps : Got two shims on the spring valve (not on the picture, perhaps called a needle, i do not know the name in english)
I'm curious about that BB that was replaced. When I remove a shim stack I always usually feed them over a wire or wire coat hanger to keep them in order. I have ADD so the wire is a must.
What bleeding procedure did you follow? It is a real pita to get right and its easy to move that ifp while bleeding it if one is not careful. I betcha there is a lot of air in it. It took me 3 times with my rp3 to get it right. I use a hypo needle filled with oil through the bleed hole to rid the air now. Plus these pistons hold air even when set into oil cause of the preloaded shim stack. So one thinks they have all the air out until they cycle the shock and spill the air out of the piston.
Make sure you plug the ifp air filler hole while bleeding to help hold the piston in place. You will find these shocks seem easy and fairly simple at first. After some time passes and you have it apart several times you will find these shocks are not so simple.
Thanks 1niceride, i'm also using a wire to keep shims/washer in the correct order.. the thing is that while dismantle the stack my elbow touch the wall .. and bliiinnnkkk .. all down on the ground .. :)
Will dismantle it again and check for air but i can't see what the air can do to the propedal not working... plus i can't hear that there is air in the shock when trying it on the bike, no Shuiuliuuiluiluiluliuli... sound.. :)
Now the Bb is a little smaller than the original one... and this can make a difference, you're right... difference is at max a tenth of a milimeter.. perhaps i can add a preload shim on the spring valve...
An other thing... i've used Motul Fork Oil 10w...
To have a proper sag i need 200psi in the air chamber... that is pretty high (my weight is 165lbs)..
Solved ... :)
The problem turns to be the pressure in the nitro chamber... do not know what i've done yesterday but there was no pressure there, the rubber joints under my schrader valve was to thick.. and i suppose it was closing the hole when the shrader was screwed in its place.
The pressure was at 400psi.... but just between the rubber and the pump... :)
I've now used a thinner joint and everything went well... propedal now works, the lever (propedal) is now consistent..
Just have to pray for the pressure to stay in... now ... :)
Thanks for your help..
I'm working on coverting a Triad shock off a 2010 Stumpjumper to an RP23 bv. physically, the body swap went without a hitch and everything is going to work as plan. However, the Triad is a 2" stroke shock reduced down to 1.8", so I have to remove the piston in the RP inorder to install the travel reducer. I've never worked on a boost valve shock before. Am I going to run into anything that I won't be able to get back together when I remove the piston from the shaft?
Also, I'm having some trouble getting the RP bled. I've been submerging the piston in a cup of oil and aggitating before installing in the body. This removes a significant amount air. It feels good on the bench, but when I put it on the bike and cycle the shock a few times, it has a noticeable pocket of air in the damper. I'm assuming this is air trapped in the piston ports that doesn't dislodge until the compression shims/bv unseats. Any tips or tricks not already mentioned in this thread? I have had zero problems bleeding Monarchs.
Update: I recently got a new CTD shock service under warranty (sucked air into damper) and on the packing slip, Fox has the shaft seal listed as "O-ring [8.5mmID X 2.5mm CS]Metric, Polyurethane Parker 4300/92A, or DISOGRIN 9250/90A, dynamic". This must be a recent configuration change, as the 2008 drawings/parts list show the -110 oring. This is just an FYI. I will continue to use the -110 polyurethane 90.
Originally Posted by ktm520