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  1. #51
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    I realize I'm reviving a pretty old thread, but thought I'd give it a shot since it fits well with my issue....

    I have an RP23 and I'm pretty sure the propedal isn't working. I don't have any oil leaking, I replaced the seals on the air can, and it's not making any noises (aside from hearing it slide when the rear is bobbing during climbs; pretty sure that it's not "squelching"). I don't want to revalve it, when it is working properly, it is setup great for my Rocky Mountain Altitude 29.

    Can the damper pressure be recharged without breaking it all down? I realize there may be a bad seal that caused the chamber to leak in the first place, but I thought this may be easy enough to try before breaking everything down.... assuming I can get my hands on one of these needle things. HomegrownMN, I'm a fellow MN-Denver transplant, care to offer your assistance? :-D

  2. #52
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  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by cort View Post
    Couple question here guys;

    I'm ordering o-ring cord from these guy's: O-Ring Cord and Splicing Kits ( only one Stateside that I could find. Most seem UK based) Is there a particular duro and compound I need to ask for?

    Or if some of you want to make some $$ I would like to purchase, say 1 meter of this stuff... *cough* Homegrown

    Second question; I have a 7.875" x 2.0 " RP3 shock that I'm currently servicing. In the FOX literature there is no info on the IFP depth for this particular shock. There is however IFP depths for the RP23. I'm assuming the IFP depths would be the same - yes??
    Update on this:

    Picked some o-ring cord from a business in Calgary. No minimum amount required so I picked up 2ft of the stuff.

    Stats:
    - 7mm diameter
    - cut to 3mm thickness
    - Nitrile
    - 70 Duro ( Fox suggests 90 Duro) Seems to hold and piercing it was effortless

    Set the IFP depth as per RP2 recommendation @ 400psi. Quite possibly one of the easiest rear shocks to service/bleed

    Side note: Call ahead and make sure the shop's Nitrogen take can do a fill up to 400psi

  4. #54
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    Question

    I know there hasn't been any activity here lately but it soesn't hurt to ask.

    Is absolutely necessary to use nitrogen or will air do the same job?

    I'm a big fan of doing things myself, and nitrogen is just one of those things that are out of my reach, i haven't found anyone locally that could do it.


    Roy

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xenocatalyst View Post
    I know there hasn't been any activity here lately but it soesn't hurt to ask.

    Is absolutely necessary to use nitrogen or will air do the same job?

    I'm a big fan of doing things myself, and nitrogen is just one of those things that are out of my reach, i haven't found anyone locally that could do it.


    Roy
    Air works. Rock Shox use air in their units that, incidentally, are fillable by a regular shock pump.

    If you indeed wan't to do it all yourself, the problem is filling the air. Without the proper tools, it's very difficult to pressurize the nitro chamber (even with air). And it seems that the Fox Platform shocks are particularly sensitive to the nitro pressure being to low and I suspect that too low nitro pressure (due to minute leaks) is in fact one of the main reasons the whole shock starts to leak (through the adjusters). All too common.

    If you ask me, the Fox air shocks are very nice in feel, but in a sense not constructed for the job. Producing a unit for a bike that need service so often and yet is not user servicable is, I'd say, arrogant.

  6. #56
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    What happens inside the shock when the PP Lever is moved?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails X-Post Fox RP3 - Unserviceable?!?!?!-float-rp23.jpg  


  7. #57
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    Can I fill a low IFP with a nitrogen recharge needle without disassembling the shock and still get good results or does the IFP first need to be serviced and depths set then refilled.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by ballistikmg View Post
    Can I fill a low IFP with a nitrogen recharge needle without disassembling the shock and still get good results or does the IFP first need to be serviced and depths set then refilled.
    If the IFP pressure is low, that usually means that something else went wrong, for example, air leaked past the ipf seal and into the oil section. You should at least take the air can off, and if you don't hear any bubble squishing then u r probably ok.

  9. #59
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    i've got a garden variety fox float R air shock..there is major squelching on compressing the shock...from this thread it looks like a fairly straight forward rebuild procedure...i have rebuilt my showa shock several times and know about getting air out of oil chamber...i kinda agree with beanbag suggestion on making sure air is out by cycling the damper head a couple times and topping off with more oil...but i'm a little leary on the nitrogen/air fill...i dont have access to N2 here, or the special fox needle tool...i was thinking of either making a homebrew needle thing or making a shrader valve to put in....anytips on making a needle, what guage is best...also anybody got a closeup of the rubber pellet and or dimensions of it..thanks
    "He can make even a global summit meeting seem like a kegger." M. Dowd, NY Times, 19 July 2006

  10. #60
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    Bumping old thread.
    Was working on my float r, trying to rig up a needle system for using just air.
    Was in my garage and a fitting caught my eye. On the fuel rail of 2.3 and 5.0 efi Ford's there is a removable fitting with a Schrader valve on it for checking and releasing fuel pressure. It has the correct size 5/16 24 to screw into the nitrogen port.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails X-Post Fox RP3 - Unserviceable?!?!?!-img_20121223_135030_3.jpg  


  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eville140 View Post
    Bumping old thread.
    Was working on my float r, trying to rig up a needle system for using just air.
    Was in my garage and a fitting caught my eye. On the fuel rail of 2.3 and 5.0 efi Ford's there is a removable fitting with a Schrader valve on it for checking and releasing fuel pressure. It has the correct size 5/16 24 to screw into the nitrogen port.
    Nice find

    I end up spending at least 15-20min bleeding the damper, ensuring I get all possible air out.

  12. #62
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    I've been looking for the schrader valve with correct thread, but it's almost impossible here in europe. So I'll probably stick with needle thing. I found one on amazon (as my post count is less than 10, I'm no atble to post link here) for $29.39 with shrader valve on the other end of needle. It might be a good and cheap alternative to fox safety needle.

    I also found some shock pumps which are claimed to 400psi, so I don't need nitrogen tank.

  13. #63
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    My shock pump's gauge went to 300, but I spun it around till it hit the stop at 0 . So it should be close to 400, week and a half later its still pressured up so the valve is holding good. Just wish it wasn't so snowy/muddy.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

  14. #64
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    I've been thinking the same, but I was afraid that it would damage barometer. Is there any place where I can buy the valve? It seems much easier than fiddling with needles

  15. #65
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    Not sure over there, but do you have auto salvage yards where you can buy used parts or pull them yourself? I bet all early Ford fuel injected motors use the same fitting. From about 1984-1993, possibly later. Very easy to get at from the top of the motor.


    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

  16. #66
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    Ford engines in europe have nothing common with US ford engines, so I don't see a chance here. Will test the needle from amazon.
    Thanks

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eville140 View Post
    My shock pump's gauge went to 300, but I spun it around till it hit the stop at 0
    I found the Rav X Shock X pump online. It goes to 400 and has served me well.
    It also has a nice feature to allow you to close off the valve before removing the pump head.

  18. #68
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    How are you all bleeding the IFP pressure before dis-assembly? It looks like the fox instructions just say to remove the pellet retaining set screw slowly.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm520 View Post
    ...remove the pellet retaining set screw slowly.
    ^^^ This. Back it out a couple of turns and you will hear the pressure release.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm520 View Post
    How are you all bleeding the IFP pressure before dis-assembly? It looks like the fox instructions just say to remove the pellet retaining set screw slowly.
    That's what I did, not sure if mine was just super low, but it barely even made a sound.


    Also I did notice that using the little Ford adapter when you attach the pump it doesn't depress the valve. It takes about 40# before it opens and applies pressure to the shock. If you want to release air you have to remove the pump and manually press it.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eville140 View Post
    That's what I did, not sure if mine was just super low, but it barely even made a sound.
    Cool. Not surprised that it didn't sound like much. The volume of the ifp chamber is super small. Just wanted to make sure its not going to shoot the pellet at me. Looking at changing the oil on a buddies Triad. It calls for 500psi but I'm guessing that is due to the lockout. He never uses his lockout so I think 400psi (hand pump) will be safe.

    When using a needle to fill, I'm guessing you just pull out the needle when done pressurizing?

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm520 View Post
    I'm guessing you just pull out the needle when done pressurizing?
    You want to make yourself a slotted allen key so you can start tightening the pellet before you remove the needle.

  23. #73
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    Anyone know the oring sizes for the shaft (in seal head) and the IFP? Was hoping to get o rings before I tear it apart. Also what oil are you all using?

  24. #74
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    So, I thought the needle fitting on Motion Pro's website looked familiar. Its a NTA style fitting, an oring, and a 22ga luer lock needle. Probably 5$ in parts. The Parker # for the fitting is VS68NTA-4-2. I'll measure the oring.


  25. #75
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    The oring for the needle fitting is a -008. See previous comment on details about needle fitting and needle size.

    The shock I'm working on for a buddy is a '10 Triad off of a Stumpjumper. It had a ton of air in the oil. Everything came apart pretty smoothly except for shooting the ifp fill pellet across the garage. Here is a list of all the seals. They are all Buna 70 unless otherwise noted.

    seal head -023
    shaft -110 (triad had a polyurethane 90, but a buna 70 should work)
    ifp -209
    air piston -218 quad (appears fox uses a special seal but this will work)
    air piston back up -218 split x2
    lower can -215 quad (fox uses a special seal but this will work)
    lower can back up -215 solid x2
    pellet for ifp .275 buna 70 cord cut .125 long


    I buy my orings from www.theoringstore.com

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