• 04-23-2013
    adamantane
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ktm520 View Post
    Update: I recently got a new CTD shock service under warranty (sucked air into damper) and on the packing slip, Fox has the shaft seal listed as "O-ring [8.5mmID X 2.5mm CS]Metric, Polyurethane Parker 4300/92A, or DISOGRIN 9250/90A, dynamic". This must be a recent configuration change, as the 2008 drawings/parts list show the -110 oring. This is just an FYI. I will continue to use the -110 polyurethane 90.

    ok thanks for the info so: dash 110 is .362 ID X .103 thick
    and the new metric one is .335 ID X .098 thick

    i tried a buna 70 dash 110 for the shaft seal once because it was much cheaper, that made noise immediately after rebuild, went back to poly 90 dash 110 and the shock has been perfect ever since...haven't tried a buna 90 dash 110 but the polys are relatively cheap
  • 10-07-2013
    Honusnap
    Good ... good
    Hi all,

    Just an addentum to my previous messages about the RP2 i've serviced some months ago.
    The air would not stay inside with a plastic cap on the schrader valve but it will with a metal cap WITH an o-ring inside. My shock is now working perfectly for 4 months, pressure is kept inside with no problems.
    I got 440 psi in it.

    Happy riding to all.
  • 10-11-2013
    412294
    This post has been Very helpful to me. My RP23 has done the deed too. Thank you everyone.

    BTW. If anyone is looking for a valve with the right thread for re-pressuring our shocks. The pressure release valve from a Ford Escort/Mondeo's injector rail is exactly the right thread. Go to your local scrap yard with a long reach 11/32 socket and get yourself a few. Ford have two types of injector rail. One has a moulded in release valve but the other is fully removable. They work brilliantly
  • 10-11-2013
    412294
    please delete this
  • 10-11-2013
    412294
    please delete this
  • 10-20-2013
    Honusnap
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 412294 View Post
    This post has been Very helpful to me. My RP23 has done the deed too. Thank you everyone.

    BTW. If anyone is looking for a valve with the right thread for re-pressuring our shocks. The pressure release valve from a Ford Escort/Mondeo's injector rail is exactly the right thread. Go to your local scrap yard with a long reach 11/32 socket and get yourself a few. Ford have two types of injector rail. One has a moulded in release valve but the other is fully removable. They work brilliantly


    Thanks a lot for the info, will check in the junkyard to see if i can found an Escort or Mondeo (Diesel or Gas ?).
  • 01-17-2014
    mcwelja
    Guys, can u help me somehow? I dont wanna pay fox 120 euro + shiping for servicing shock :(

    Fox RP23 leaking oil behind rebound knob - Pinkbike Forum
  • 01-17-2014
    Honusnap
    Hi mcwelja,

    Are you able to dismount the Shock absorber ?
    Look at post #89 and #87 from this thread, your problem is certainly the A or C ring.
  • 03-15-2014
    travman
    1 Attachment(s)
    deleted - after more research my answer was received.
  • 05-09-2014
    assaf_angel
    damper seal kits -

    i hope you guys won't consider this as spam. i thinck the link can help the diy riders -

    Fox Float R RP2 RP23 RP3 Triad Improved Oil Seal Kit | eBay
  • 04-16-2015
    ncerni
    Damper o-rings for all these inline Fox float shocks (CTD, RP, RP2, RP3, RP23 etc):
    9x2.5mm (2pcs) - bumper and damper shaft seal
    26,7x1,78 damper cap seal
    17x3,5 IFP
    4x1.2 rebound tube seal
    2.5x1 compression rod seal (ctd or propedal rod)
    7,5x1,5 air seal between damper shaft and shock top cap (if shock leaks air under knobs)

    values are in milimeters
  • 04-16-2015
    tacubaya
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ncerni View Post
    Damper o-rings for all these inline Fox float shocks (CTD, RP, RP2, RP3, RP23 etc):
    9x2.5mm (2pcs) - bumper and damper shaft seal
    26,7x1,78 damper cap seal
    17x3,5 IFP
    4x1.2 rebound tube seal
    2.5x1 compression rod seal (ctd or propedal rod)
    7,5x1,5 air seal between damper shaft and shock top cap (if shock leaks air under knobs)

    values are in milimeters

    Incorrect.
  • 04-16-2015
    ktm520
    ^^what tacubaya said. All of the correct oring sizes have been posted previously in this thread. CTD and RP do not share the same shaft size.
  • 04-16-2015
    ncerni
    IDK, these sizes work for me :) Every inline fox float shock I had in my hands had 9mm damper shaft.
  • 08-15-2015
    ptd006
    I would be grateful RP3 seal sizes. Also, a table to lookup IFP depths.

    Thanks, great thread!
  • 08-15-2015
    Rick Draper
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ptd006 View Post
    I would be grateful RP3 seal sizes. Also, a table to lookup IFP depths.

    Thanks, great thread!

    I'd be grateful of a lottery win but its not going to happen!
  • 08-15-2015
    ptd006
    :)

    No worries, in the end I bought the "improved" seal kit from Sheeep Israel / abagrizzli on eBay ($32 delivered). As with the Fox seals, it seems way overpriced for over the counter seals. Also it remains to be seen exactly what "improved" means!

    For the needle hex adapter/tool I'll drill out a tamperproof 4 mm hex bit. Still not sourced any nitrogen.
  • 08-31-2015
    ptd006
    I plan to rebuild my RP3 next weekend (to hopefully get ProPedal working and get rid of the squelching noise!).

    I've got
    - the Fox air can seal/oil kit
    - Abagrizzli/Sheeep's seal kit
    - Spare 7mm o-ring to make extra rubber pucks (if necessary)
    - an old 4mm hex/allen bit to drill out
    - an old football needle with a thread that fits my shock pump.
    - syringe for bleeding

    Missing:
    A) hypodermic needle (which I will epoxy into the football needle). What size/gauge to get?

    Edit: I happen to have 21 and 23 gauge needles in my medical bag. So will try one of those!

    I figure a 0.9mm internal diameter needle has about 28.3 square mm surface area per cm, i.e. 0.045 square inches. At 400 lbs / sq. inch that's about 18 lbs or 8.2 kg, which I think is OK but I wouldn't go lower than this (i.e. > gauge 18).

    The motion pro needle is a 22 gauge, going by internet forum posts.

    (I would buy a motion pro needle but they seem outrageously expensive for what they are!)

    B) Oil. Any suggestions? (I do have some old motorbike fork oil but doubt that is appropriate).

    C) IFP depth settings! Any got a link to a table?

    Edit: I am just going for the 48.3mm depth spec'd for the RP23 in same size.

    D) Anything else?!


    Thanks!

    Edit: I bought a new Float CTD, "just in case", so I can keep riding :)