ok thanks for the info so: dash 110 is .362 ID X .103 thick
Originally Posted by ktm520
and the new metric one is .335 ID X .098 thick
i tried a buna 70 dash 110 for the shaft seal once because it was much cheaper, that made noise immediately after rebuild, went back to poly 90 dash 110 and the shock has been perfect ever since...haven't tried a buna 90 dash 110 but the polys are relatively cheap
Good ... good
Just an addentum to my previous messages about the RP2 i've serviced some months ago.
The air would not stay inside with a plastic cap on the schrader valve but it will with a metal cap WITH an o-ring inside. My shock is now working perfectly for 4 months, pressure is kept inside with no problems.
I got 440 psi in it.
Happy riding to all.
This post has been Very helpful to me. My RP23 has done the deed too. Thank you everyone.
BTW. If anyone is looking for a valve with the right thread for re-pressuring our shocks. The pressure release valve from a Ford Escort/Mondeo's injector rail is exactly the right thread. Go to your local scrap yard with a long reach 11/32 socket and get yourself a few. Ford have two types of injector rail. One has a moulded in release valve but the other is fully removable. They work brilliantly
Originally Posted by 412294
Thanks a lot for the info, will check in the junkyard to see if i can found an Escort or Mondeo (Diesel or Gas ?).
Guys, can u help me somehow? I dont wanna pay fox 120 euro + shiping for servicing shock :(
Fox RP23 leaking oil behind rebound knob - Pinkbike Forum
Are you able to dismount the Shock absorber ?
Look at post #89 and #87 from this thread, your problem is certainly the A or C ring.
deleted - after more research my answer was received.
damper seal kits -
i hope you guys won't consider this as spam. i thinck the link can help the diy riders -
Fox Float R RP2 RP23 RP3 Triad Improved Oil Seal Kit | eBay
Damper o-rings for all these inline Fox float shocks (CTD, RP, RP2, RP3, RP23 etc):
9x2.5mm (2pcs) - bumper and damper shaft seal
26,7x1,78 damper cap seal
4x1.2 rebound tube seal
2.5x1 compression rod seal (ctd or propedal rod)
7,5x1,5 air seal between damper shaft and shock top cap (if shock leaks air under knobs)
values are in milimeters
Originally Posted by ncerni
^^what tacubaya said. All of the correct oring sizes have been posted previously in this thread. CTD and RP do not share the same shaft size.
IDK, these sizes work for me :) Every inline fox float shock I had in my hands had 9mm damper shaft.
I would be grateful RP3 seal sizes. Also, a table to lookup IFP depths.
Thanks, great thread!
I'd be grateful of a lottery win but its not going to happen!
Originally Posted by ptd006
No worries, in the end I bought the "improved" seal kit from Sheeep Israel / abagrizzli on eBay ($32 delivered). As with the Fox seals, it seems way overpriced for over the counter seals. Also it remains to be seen exactly what "improved" means!
For the needle hex adapter/tool I'll drill out a tamperproof 4 mm hex bit. Still not sourced any nitrogen.
I plan to rebuild my RP3 next weekend (to hopefully get ProPedal working and get rid of the squelching noise!).
- the Fox air can seal/oil kit
- Abagrizzli/Sheeep's seal kit
- Spare 7mm o-ring to make extra rubber pucks (if necessary)
- an old 4mm hex/allen bit to drill out
- an old football needle with a thread that fits my shock pump.
- syringe for bleeding
A) hypodermic needle (which I will epoxy into the football needle). What size/gauge to get?
Edit: I happen to have 21 and 23 gauge needles in my medical bag. So will try one of those!
I figure a 0.9mm internal diameter needle has about 28.3 square mm surface area per cm, i.e. 0.045 square inches. At 400 lbs / sq. inch that's about 18 lbs or 8.2 kg, which I think is OK but I wouldn't go lower than this (i.e. > gauge 18).
The motion pro needle is a 22 gauge, going by internet forum posts.
(I would buy a motion pro needle but they seem outrageously expensive for what they are!)
B) Oil. Any suggestions? (I do have some old motorbike fork oil but doubt that is appropriate).
C) IFP depth settings! Any got a link to a table?
Edit: I am just going for the 48.3mm depth spec'd for the RP23 in same size.
D) Anything else?!
Edit: I bought a new Float CTD, "just in case", so I can keep riding :)
Hello, I am new here but I have some problems servicing my RP23.
I have a needle and a shock pump so I have no troubles putting more than 300PSI in my IFP chamber.
Problems comes from the fact that I cant take all the air from the damper when rebuilding it. I have followed all the steps from http://www.dhfr.ru/fox/Content/Servi...23_Rebuild.htm
But opon putting together the shock I have about 10mm of squishy in the upper travel.
I have followed the instructions and oil got out of the bleeding port for damper oil, after that I have inserted the steel ball and nut.
photo hosting sites
Can you please give me some advices, maybe there some settings like full open and rebound full on, or full of ... i dono
You want to fill the damper body to the top with oil. Have the rebound fully open (fastest setting) and soak the entire piston etc. in another container of damper fluid. Keep the piston under the fluid and agitate it until there are no more air bubbles coming from the piston etc. Quickly transfer it to the damper body and screw it on. Lots of oil will overflow and some should escape out the bleed port as you screw the final few turns on the damper.
Thanks @TigWorkd, what you are saying makes perfect sense. To bad I haven't found an advice like this before servicing it.
For the moment I have tested the shock by installing it upside-down and the sound is still there so It makes me think that if there would no air it would be sitting on the IFP plate and not at the piston plate.
So I am thinking there is no air in the damper and the noise is caused by the oil passing through the shimstack and valves? Could it be like this?
If you are getting 10mm of aerated oil, that is a lot of air. Fox's published bleed procedure doesn't get all the air out, but it's good enough. Definitely make sure both the compression and rebound are set to full soft/fast. If not, the ifp will displace and leave a pocket of air above the piston. When you do it right, quite a bit of oil will vent out the bleed port and run down the side of the damper body.
@ktm520 if it would be air in damper oil, when I have turned it upside down, the air should have moved to the ifp plate and should have not been felt at the beginning of the run! It should have been felt at the end of the run/stroke.
Besides that, I have got the oil out from the bleed port when threading the piston into the damper body!
The only think I haven't done is to submerge in oil the piston plate before threading it to the damper body.
Other fact is that I have tried tu purge the air by opening the bleed port on the top of the piston plate(I know that IFP depth got modified in this case). It only got out oil, no air bubbles.
So my gues is that if it is air it is located somwere in the piston, or maybe it could be normal operation noise of the shock caused by oil passing through shimbstack and rebound and all the valving in there?!
That sheds a little more light. Ya, sounds like you got a decent bleed. Is the air can installed when you hear noise? When air piston passes transfer port in can, it can make a noise consistent with what you describe.
@ktm520, I have cycled the shock without the air can and I could not feel a swoosh, hiss, nothing, i would say it felt butter smooth.
After installing the air can when pumping it, at about 50PSI it makes a hissing sound, and that is the sound that I get when compressing the shock.
Can you please point me to what Fox said about bleeding and not getting all the air out?
Cane Creek stated something similar here: https://www.canecreek.com/products/suspension/lounge/forum/air-cs-soft-initial-damping
Hmm, you guys got my thinking.
Could it be me putting a little to much oil in the air can(I have used synt gear oil and I could actually put a little more having the ideea that more is better then less?!)?
And this oil being cycled between negative and positive?
Fox Service Instructions RP2, ...
is unfortunately not available.
Originally Posted by HomegrownMN
I assume it was a ZIP File with the service instructions for rp3, rp2, rp23 and others.
Please can someone upload it again?
www.dhfr.ru/fox , which I assume had the same information is offline, too.
I would appreciate it very much when I can get the "Bible".