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  1. #1
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    X-Fusion Slide 29 question: Should I be able to bottom the fork out?

    I am a fairly light rider 150 lbs. I have tuned the fork and run about 60 lbs of air. However, I still cannot get more than about 2/3 of the travel from the fork. I tried letting the air out to see if I could get the full travel and it still wouldn't go past about 2/3 the way down the stanchion.

    Does this fork just not actually travel the full 100 mm or is it time for a rebuild/service?

    Any knowledgeable thoughts or input is greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
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    I have found that mine ran rather firm at the recommended pressure. I have subsequently been running it with 10-15 PSI less than the recommended pressure and it has been fine (at 100mm).

    I am getting the full amount of travel. Sounds like it might be time to take it apart and see what could be wrong. Maybe it is only set for 80mm? Or a rebuild/service might be in your future, as you alluded to.

    Either way, good luck and let us know how things turn out.

  3. #3
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    So I removed the lowers and the fork oil seemed pretty clean (just a black tinge. What I wonder about is the rebound/lockout rod cannot be compressed enough to match the air chamber side. I wonder if there is something wrong with the dampening cartridge. In which case I assume I would have to have it serviced. Anyone have any more thoughts on the matter?

  4. #4
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    I would contact X-Fusion and see what they have to say, TBH. It might be something they can walk you through on the phone/by email.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shalom View Post
    I would contact X-Fusion and see what they have to say, TBH. It might be something they can walk you through on the phone/by email.
    So I called them and they felt comfortable telling me what to do since I was able to pull the lowers. I relayed to them that it felt like the damper side was hydrolocked and they said to remove the lowers by using a 28 mm socket (with the bevel cut off ). They said there should only be 140 mL of oil in the damper. After pulling it I measured it and found out there was 160 mL. So I changed the oil with the correct amount and put it back together and the fork is now working again.

    FWIW I bought this fork on ebay. I don't know if other people have had this problem with the ebay forks.

  6. #6
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    You just bumped this up with your reply and I was going to tell you exactly what they did, too much oil in the damper. In the future if you let all air out of a fork and still cannot get it to compress all the way, then FOR SURE you know there is too much oil in the damper side, so check and remove some until full travel is achieved.

    Quote Originally Posted by kmancrx View Post
    So I called them and they felt comfortable telling me what to do since I was able to pull the lowers. I relayed to them that it felt like the damper side was hydrolocked and they said to remove the lowers by using a 28 mm socket (with the bevel cut off ). They said there should only be 140 mL of oil in the damper. After pulling it I measured it and found out there was 160 mL. So I changed the oil with the correct amount and put it back together and the fork is now working again.

    FWIW I bought this fork on ebay. I don't know if other people have had this problem with the ebay forks.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  7. #7
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    Fork is buttery smooth now. Love it!

  8. #8
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    Interesting...I just got one of these on Ebay and installed it last night. I let all of the air pressure out of mine and wasn't able to bottom out either. I assumed it was because it was set to 100mm out of 120mm of travel, because there is much more than 100mm of stanchion showing. I guess I might be facing the same issue. Mine also seems much more firm than what I'm used to. Sounds like draining the oil was a big hassle?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanTemplar View Post
    Interesting...I just got one of these on Ebay and installed it last night. I let all of the air pressure out of mine and wasn't able to bottom out either. I assumed it was because it was set to 100mm out of 120mm of travel, because there is much more than 100mm of stanchion showing. I guess I might be facing the same issue. Mine also seems much more firm than what I'm used to. Sounds like draining the oil was a big hassle?
    Maybe not. According to the tech at x-fusion you should still have about 10 mm or so of stanchion present when the fork is completely compressed (ie you let all of the air out). It should not bottom out all of the way. Mine was definitely hydrolocked (too much oil), and I was only getting 20mm of stiff travel out of it. Taking the cartridge out is not that big of a deal, the only hassle is finding (making) the non beveled 28 mm socket. Be sure you have a good grinder or cutting tool. My dremel got fried about 9/10 of the way through cutting it and then I had to do the rest with a hack saw. It took me an extra 45 minutes to cut through steel. Also be careful not to cross thread that damper cartridge when you put it back in. The tech told me that I would need to remove the lowers which I did but I don't actually see a need for that based on how the damper is set up. YMMV. If you do it you will need 140 mL of 7wt oil. Also drain the oil into a measuring cup to see how much was in there.

    If you do remove the lowers there is a guide on the website. Personally I would avoid banging on the bolts of the lowers too hard with the deadblow hammer because the soft aluminum started to crush the threads. I would recommend hitting it with a rubber mallet on the fork arch.

    Put a zip tie on one of the stanchions and see how much travel you get while riding. People here have been saying that they need a little less air than what is recommended on the website to get the correct feel on the fork. You also may want to play around with your rebound controls.

    Let us know how it goes.

  10. #10
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    Yeah, I had my Reba at like 70 psi in the positive and 60 psi in the negative if I recall correctly. I got full travel and it was much softer than what most people like but I dug it. From what little experimentation I did last night I wasn't able to get it that plush but maybe it's partly a breaking it in thing.

    One thing that I want to measure later is the distance from the fork crown to the axle because the longer stanchions are making me wonder weather the fork might be changing the geometry of my frame. I mean does changing the fork from 100mm to 120mm change that distance or does it just change the distance that the fork is able to compress?

  11. #11
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    kmancrx - would this work in place of the ground socket? Lunar Bike Tools

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanTemplar View Post
    kmancrx - would this work in place of the ground socket? Lunar Bike Tools
    That looks like it would be awesome. Thanks for sharing. I wish I had known about that earlier. It only costs $3 more than the socket that took me almost 1.5 hours to grind down minus the headache.

  13. #13
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    Cool, just bought it. Less than $11 with shipping & tax....

    Rode the fork for the first time last night. Took the pressure all the way down to 50 & it feels pretty good. From the dust on the stanchions it looks like I'm only getting 90mm of travel though.

  14. #14
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    Just for clarification, can you get the fork to bottom out now kmancrx?

  15. #15
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    Bought my slide 29 (2012) on ebay and it had this identical problem. Hydrolocked.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanTemplar View Post
    Just for clarification, can you get the fork to bottom out now kmancrx?
    Yes, you will never get the true 100mm of travel because the tech at x-fusion said they have a bumper that prevents bottoming out but It will be very close.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronbeel View Post
    Bought my slide 29 (2012) on ebay and it had this identical problem. Hydrolocked.
    Did you fix it? I wonder if they had quality control issues at the factory with overfilling. Maybe that's why they were going so cheap on ebay.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmancrx View Post
    Did you fix it? I wonder if they had quality control issues at the factory with overfilling. Maybe that's why they were going so cheap on ebay.
    I haven't serviced it yet. I imagine you're right on the price/quality control; that being said for $260 I'm super happy with the fork, I have to run it around 45psi until I can get to changing the oil, but it feels great. Mine is the 120mm version, so I need to call them and get the correct oil volumes. Were they pretty helpful for you?

  19. #19
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    I still haven't taken any oil out of mine either but it works just fine as it is. Definitely the best deal around. I had considered getting the thru axle version but it was going to cost considerably more, especially once I converted my White hub. Still feels more laterally stiff than the Reba I had before.

    I ordered that tool and will open it up when it comes. I'm also thinking about trying it out in the 120mm setting (it's currently at 100mm). Anybody changed theirs?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanTemplar View Post
    I still haven't taken any oil out of mine either but it works just fine as it is. Definitely the best deal around. I had considered getting the thru axle version but it was going to cost considerably more, especially once I converted my White hub. Still feels more laterally stiff than the Reba I had before.

    I ordered that tool and will open it up when it comes. I'm also thinking about trying it out in the 120mm setting (it's currently at 100mm). Anybody changed theirs?
    Let us know how it goes...I run 120mm on mine and it's great minus the overfilled oil. And just to clarify, is it the oil bath on the damper side that people are finding to be overfilled or is it the damper itself?

  21. #21
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    The wrench arrived today! Hopefully I'll get a chance to take the fork apart this weekend. I'll let you all know how it goes.

  22. #22
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    I think I'm finally going to try to take apart the fork tonight. I watched the video on how to service the lowers and it looks like some special tool is required to take it off? Also, I don't understand what the 28mm bevel-less wrench is for.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanTemplar View Post
    Also, I don't understand what the 28mm bevel-less wrench is for.
    I didn't at first either; sockets have a bevel at the entry that makes the contact points to the very short nut not complete. It just barely grips the nut, making it really easy to strip. The non-bevel tool makes full contact with the nut.

  24. #24
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    So do I not need the special tool that they say you need in this video to get the lowers off?: Metric / Vengeance Travel Change on Vimeo

  25. #25
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    Not sure what tool you're referring to, but if you mean to knock the dampening unit into the stanchion, I've never had anything like that, I just use the socket on the nut on the shaft and tap the socket, just make sure it's threaded onto the threads well and the small needle isn't protruding. Never seen that type of nut like they have, not sure what it's made of, so maybe using a normal 13mm nut with the right threads might be a good idea since that flange may not be very strong. Honestly though, if you're asking this many questions and this unsure it might not be a bad idea to get it done by an authorized shop/dealer - it is easy though.

    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanTemplar View Post
    So do I not need the special tool that they say you need in this video to get the lowers off?: Metric / Vengeance Travel Change on Vimeo
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