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  1. #1
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    what kind of drop off do I have?

    I have a marzocchi drop off, bought it at a bike swap. it says its a dropoff III but I dont see the lower adjuster for rebound. it does have air caps on both forks, which I have been using wrong for years (I but 35-40psi in both). I have never taken it apart, but intend to tonight as it appears there MIGHT be a spacer I can remove to have 150mm of travel, which I would like.
    I also want to change out the oil to be 10wt, unless 15 is much better. I would like it be be very sensitive to bumps if possible, but I realize its just a standard damper rod, so it will be opposite what I want in that respect.

    so what should I expect when I open it up. is there a way to definately tell, without knowing the year and exact model, which side is the main spring and which is the preload (in case there is no spring as on my exr air) or if I have anything adjustable?

  2. #2
    Former Bike Wrench
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    Pictures would help, but I once had a Drop Off Triple that had no damper adjustments, a spring in the left leg, and air caps on both legs. It had terrible small bump sensitivity until I actually went with a LIGHTER oil (5wt Bel Ray) than the OEM oil.

    I also limited the air pressure, just enough to get about 30% sag.

  3. #3
    Huckin' trails
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    I have a 2006 Drop Off III 150mm on my Freeride and its got the rebound adjust under the right leg. I don't think you have springs in it, but I will get you the owner manuel so you can check it out.

    I have the alloy one and standard one manuals for 2006.

    David

    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19671984/Bik...drop-off-3.pdf

    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19671984/Bik...ff-3-alloy.pdf
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  4. #4
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    did you mean the triple as in the dual tripleclamp fork, or the do III? it seems the dual crown fork has the same internals as the comp, which arent as good as the III, if the III comes with them.
    it just gets confusing. I dont recall any external adjustments on my fork, but maybe there should be, or maybe its an OEM model that was lower spec than aftermarket.

    I am really hoping to find the spacers in there so I can make it 6", that would be nice.

  5. #5
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    see thats the other thing, I doubt it was even 2006 when I got it, I recall it more like 04 or MAYBE 05. it could have been later, but I dont know. it was definately used, and at a bike swap for about $75. its been a few years but I recall I got it while living with some friends after college, only lived there from summer 03 to summer 05, though it could have been late summer. and I had it for a few months before I left. thats why it seems like it couldnt have been a 2006. I'll check if it says comp or III. comp seems to make more sense.

    sorry for the confusion, my buddy I was living with also bought a similar one around the same time, though his of likely less reputable circumstances. we had his apart to change oil (to 15w) and it had a spring on one side which we found odd. I dont recall liking it with 15w oil, but it was setup for his weight (about 80lbs less than me at the time) so it would have felt quite slow. I dont recall having issues with mine at the time, so I left it alone. I did change out the oil on my exr air around then (what came on the bike, changed it when I had it off the bike)

  6. #6
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    sorry to jack my own thread as well, but I have a manitou splice super at home as well, and wondering if it would be better for me.
    I weigh 255lbs, and like to bounce off things roughly, mostly reasonable XC but I like to ride everywhere and love technical ups and downs. that and I like to bounce around on rocks and obstacles I setup in the yard, ramps and teeters and such. I have noticed most forks tend to flex a lot when I perform stoppies, but the dropoff doesnt seem to do this. The splice doesnt seem (looking at it at least) to be as robust as the dropoff, and I wouldnt like to loose that stiffness and strength. the splice also doesnt have enough spring for me, not even close, so that would have to be changed. the 100-130 would be nice for when I know I will be climbing a lot, and match the frame (100-120mm) pretty nicely, but I dont mind more fork than swingarm.
    the main reasons I could see for the splice going on my bike are damping and weight. Is fluid flow going to be better as a trailfork than SSV with heavier oil? how will I notice, and how will it improve the bikes performance over now. and I guess weight will be figured out when I pull the fork off, if its dramatically different I will think harder about it.

    anyone wanna trade nicer zocchi cartridges for a whole splice super?


    oh, and the exr air is now on my wifes hardtail, so I will need to figure out where to add spacers to shorten it from 120mm.... maybe the spacers (if there) from my fork could fit?

  7. #7
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    Triple as in Triple Clamp...just providing you some experience on tuning the non-adjustable fork. You were headed in the heavier oil direction for small bump sensitivity when going lighter is actually the answer.

    PS-Manitou's Fluid Flow damper is very primitive, not any better IME than the base Marzocchi dampers...I'd stick with Marzocchi in this instance (which is rare for me to say).

  8. #8
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    plastic damper rods, non adjustable. had roughly 20mm (3/4"ish) black spacers in there, one was cracked and fit into the top out spring. both came out, . thought I would be smug with 150mm fork. nope, NOW its 130 roughly, about 5.5"ish total travel. must have been 110 or 100mm before. oh well. at least its now using all its got. took out the steel spring too.
    old oil was nasty. thought I would replace with 15w, but found that I had used it in my MC rear brake, shocking that it locked up the other night..... good thing I have a spare brake system for the rear. so anyways, I made due with a temporary fix, 10w40 motor oil in one leg, 30w in the other. they both have 10w40 but was WAY too fast moving. feels pretty good now sadly.

    mounted the splice, waste of time, it has negative preload and no way to change that, wont even hold itself at full travel with the weight of the bike. 60-70% sag or more, not fun. off it came.

    might pick up some suspension oil tommorrow, definately 15w or heavier, unless it acts very different from motor oil.

    also but 60psi in one leg and 10 in the other. though I dont know why now, both legs are exactly the same, NO difference, except air pressure now. tried negative air on the heavy oil side, compressed fork and bled air, then pumped up the other side, but then rememberd the negative air spring would help sensitivity, but would really cavitate the oil. Think releasing the pressure in a soda can

  9. #9
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    oh, stickers, none but one that says dropoff inside one fork leg

  10. #10
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    so I pulled the spacers and only go 130mm travel. is this all I am allowed? could I put longer damper rods in there and get more travel? how do I tell where the limit is for the fork. I assume there is a length inside where the bearings need to contact the uppers in the lowers. just measure and decide?

  11. #11
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    opened up the fork after a ride on the sidewalk to the store for bread. completely full of foam on the 10w40 side. drained that out, no foam in the 30w side, but that had been flipped a couple times by then, so it might have.

    put new belray moto fork oil 20w in both sides. they say 180ml both sides, I guess thats good if you want to loose 7mm of travel to hydraulic lock.... so I left about 12-20mm from the bottom of the threads when the fork is compressed, theres plenty of oil for damping and lubing in there.

    put the spring back in, with extended spacer (40mm for travel adjustment and a little preload too, I'm a big guy. made the spacer from pvc, 3/4" sch40. worked great

  12. #12
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    also lowered my wifes fork, she agreed it was too long last trailride, almost flipped over backwards..... j/k but she felt like she would.
    put 3/4" copper pipe, about 40mm, in between the topout spring and the damper rod, was worried about thinwall copper, but the spacer on the dropout is aluminum which is worse than copper, and the damper rod its topping out on (the only force it will see) is plastic, so not really worried much about it, and it works great.

    also threw 20w oil in there, had 7.5w from when I last changed the oil. was almost never used so it was still great, just too thin really. also filled the gap in the lowers between the dust and oil seals with chassis grease, it was dry with some whitish water/oil residue on the oil seal. so I filled that gap with nasty black car chassis grease, wish I still had my nice red mobil 1 synthetic chassis grease, which is a lot smoother and slipperier, but this stuff should help, left black grease all on the uppers, but thats fine, smooth as silk.

    also cut the steerer down about 1/3", and move the space above the stem, and flipped the stem, so the bars are about 3-4" down from where they were, wife doesn't yet like it, but she agreed to take it on a real trail ride with climbs to see if it were better. its a long way down from where it was, but I can still flip the stem for about 2" up, and the 1/4" spacer can go under the stem if needed too. but she HAD it with a 1/2" spacer below the stem, stem rising up, and an extra 1.25" travel in the forks. I turned it from a bombing downhiller (gary fisher wahoo xc frame) to a sleek racer. just needs some adjusting to.

    gonna, maybe end of year, do the grease thing to mine too, only with the better grease and clean out both of them again end of season. might try to fix the damping a touch too, next post about that

  13. #13
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    end of season gonna overhaul the forks again, complete teardown, grease the oilseal/dust wiper gap with heavy sythetic mobil1 chassis grease. then I will run boots on both forks, lots of grease and boots will make the slide very well. not sure if I should use tire inner tube boots or neoprene though. I will have the forks apart so sliding rubber on wont be an issue, I'm just worried about where it will have to split to go around the crown and ziptie below. I dont want water and dirt getting in there. neoprene boots have a velcro fastening on the backside though, definately dont like that.

    trying to think of ways to upgrade the internals to include some real damping. both forks have air caps, I could pull the valve on one side and bore/thread in a rod for compression damping, something simple like a blow off on the compression side, with internally adjustable bypass through the hollow rod. basically drill a hole or holes through the side of the threaded hollow rod, and use a double-nut to cover or expose the holes more or less.

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