Results 1 to 25 of 25
  1. #1
    I kill hills.
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    18

    Upgrading my fork, Help me decide upon travel and axle options.

    Hey guys, So I want to upgrade the fork on my trek 4300. I've been looking at various Fox 32 options but I am open to other suggestions. My bike has a 100mm fork on it now with a 1 1/8th steerer but I am considering a 120mm fork. I am somewhat worried this will completely change the feel and geometry of my bike. The trails I ride have some steep climbs and I am curious if the extra 20mm of travel will make these climbs more difficult? I would really like a fork with a remote lockout feature as well for certain riding conditions but it is not a must.

    Another thing I am thinking about is upgrading from a 9mm qr to a 15mm axle system for the front, The extra rigidity sounds enticing but I dont know if I will really notice the difference, All my research tells me that I should but who knows? I could get a dt swiss complete front wheel for not a whole lot of cash so that is also making the idea of converting even more alluring.

    I ride singletrack and I ride hard so I would really like something that is going to last and is quality. Price is not really an issue but I dont want to put a super expensive fork on a bike that wasn't super expensive to begin with. I do foresee keeping this bike for a long time though.

    Any suggestions or input would be much appreciated.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Five is right out
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    3,177
    I've moved from 130 to 160, and 100 to 130 on two different frames. I could tell a minor difference but it was really quite minimal. The additional travel more than made up for it.

    With 20mm extra additional travel, with 25% sag factored in, then you are looking at 15mm when on the bike. You'd have to be pretty bloody sensitive to be able to tell half a degree change in head angle.

    If I was going to go from QR to through-axle, I'd skip the compromise of 15mm if at all possible and go straight to 20. I read up on someone's calculations on improvements to stiffness a couple of years back, which convinced me that 15mm was a bit of a shifty marketing scam by Fox.

  3. #3
    I kill hills.
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by womble View Post
    I've moved from 130 to 160, and 100 to 130 on two different frames. I could tell a minor difference but it was really quite minimal. The additional travel more than made up for it.

    With 20mm extra additional travel, with 25% sag factored in, then you are looking at 15mm when on the bike. You'd have to be pretty bloody sensitive to be able to tell half a degree change in head angle.

    If I was going to go from QR to through-axle, I'd skip the compromise of 15mm if at all possible and go straight to 20. I read up on someone's calculations on improvements to stiffness a couple of years back, which convinced me that 15mm was a bit of a shifty marketing scam by Fox.
    Thanks for the input womble. That is what I was hoping to hear, I have also heard similar statements about the 15mm axle setups being somewhat of a marketing scam. I do think we can agree that the 15mm would certainly be stronger and prone to less flex than a 9mm QR setup though. I would just feel funny running a 20mm TA in front an a 9mm QR out back... Maybe I am wrong in feeling this way?

  4. #4
    Gears... I hate gears
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    215
    Quote Originally Posted by LeddZepp8687 View Post
    Hey guys, So I want to upgrade the fork on my trek 4300. I've been looking at various Fox 32 options but I am open to other suggestions. My bike has a 100mm fork on it now with a 1 1/8th steerer but I am considering a 120mm fork. I am somewhat worried this will completely change the feel and geometry of my bike. The trails I ride have some steep climbs and I am curious if the extra 20mm of travel will make these climbs more difficult? I would really like a fork with a remote lockout feature as well for certain riding conditions but it is not a must.

    Another thing I am thinking about is upgrading from a 9mm qr to a 15mm axle system for the front, The extra rigidity sounds enticing but I dont know if I will really notice the difference, All my research tells me that I should but who knows? I could get a dt swiss complete front wheel for not a whole lot of cash so that is also making the idea of converting even more alluring.

    I ride singletrack and I ride hard so I would really like something that is going to last and is quality. Price is not really an issue but I dont want to put a super expensive fork on a bike that wasn't super expensive to begin with. I do foresee keeping this bike for a long time though.

    Any suggestions or input would be much appreciated.

    Thanks!
    As a general rule, you can add or subtract 20mm from the fork without changing the geometry to much or weakening the frame. May I recommend a Reba? Can be had for much cheaper than a fox and generally more resistant to lack of maintenance.

    As for 9mm vs 15mm; if you're buying a new fork and wheel, why not just go 20mm? Sorry, but I can't help you out on the stiffness as I'm still on my 9mm qr.

  5. #5
    I kill hills.
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by reedfe View Post
    As a general rule, you can add or subtract 20mm from the fork without changing the geometry to much or weakening the frame. May I recommend a Reba? Can be had for much cheaper than a fox and generally more resistant to lack of maintenance.

    As for 9mm vs 15mm; if you're buying a new fork and wheel, why not just go 20mm? Sorry, but I can't help you out on the stiffness as I'm still on my 9mm qr.
    I had actually kinda overlooked the Reba... I don't know how or why I did though. I've read lots of good stuff about them, I like the pricing too. Can't seem to find any kind of definitive answer online though regarding differences between the RL and the RLT besides the lockout threshold being knob adjustable vs allen screw adjusted. Any other differences?

    Also, Can I just say that there are far too many fork variations out there. Looking through Fox's website and some of the other big manufacturer's sites and attempting to decrypt all their lingo is giving me a headache.

  6. #6
    Five is right out
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    3,177
    Quote Originally Posted by LeddZepp8687 View Post
    . I do think we can agree that the 15mm would certainly be stronger and prone to less flex than a 9mm QR setup though. I would just feel funny running a 20mm TA in front an a 9mm QR out back... Maybe I am wrong in feeling this way?
    Well, I did that for about two years on my last frame. The improvement was very noticeable- I think that rigidity is more important on the front than the back, given that the front is where you steer. Stiffness on the back is, IMO, just a bonus. And your suspension design is likely to have more an impact on rear stiffness than QR vs TA.

    BTW, I am a featherweight rider who had assumed that the whole TA fork stiffness thing would be unnoticeable by me. As soon as I moved to a 20mm TA, I could tell the difference immediately.

    Admittedly, I've not compared a 15mm TA (and hopefully never will).

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    34
    Go with fox talas so you can adjust your travel if you want to.

  8. #8
    Gears... I hate gears
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    215
    Quote Originally Posted by LeddZepp8687 View Post
    I had actually kinda overlooked the Reba... I don't know how or why I did though. I've read lots of good stuff about them, I like the pricing too. Can't seem to find any kind of definitive answer online though regarding differences between the RL and the RLT besides the lockout threshold being knob adjustable vs allen screw adjusted. Any other differences?

    Also, Can I just say that there are far too many fork variations out there. Looking through Fox's website and some of the other big manufacturer's sites and attempting to decrypt all their lingo is giving me a headache.
    I own a 2010 Reba Team which has the threshold knob. I do not believe that the RL has threshold adjustment. The RLT does have threshold adjustment which is what the "T" stands for. That is what you're paying for. Its a slight upgrade in control but its well worth it in my experience. Also, if you are looking at Rebas, the new 2013s are based on a solo air while all previous models were based on dual air. Something to keep in mind when purchasing.

  9. #9
    29ers Forever
    Reputation: CannondaleF9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    2,646
    If you are looking for a new fork, stay 100mm, unless you want to turn your bike into an all-Mountain hardtail. RockShox Reba would be a good budget choice, although the FOX Float 32 100mm FIT Teralogic would be a good choice. One with a CTD may be a better choice, but has a different adjustment feature.
    2013 Trek Cobia- 29er serious mountain bike
    2015 Raleigh Misceo- Gravel bike
    2013 Trek 3700 Disk- play mountain bike

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1,338
    Check out a white brothers loop. They have a super stiff 15mm design. It's also internally adjustable between 80, 100, and 120mm. Oh yeah, 27.5" compatible if you decide later to get one of those.
    whatever...

  11. #11
    I kill hills.
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by womble View Post
    Well, I did that for about two years on my last frame. The improvement was very noticeable- I think that rigidity is more important on the front than the back, given that the front is where you steer. Stiffness on the back is, IMO, just a bonus. And your suspension design is likely to have more an impact on rear stiffness than QR vs TA.

    BTW, I am a featherweight rider who had assumed that the whole TA fork stiffness thing would be unnoticeable by me. As soon as I moved to a 20mm TA, I could tell the difference immediately.

    Admittedly, I've not compared a 15mm TA (and hopefully never will).
    Sounds like a TA setup is for me. I know that if I buy a non TA fork I will regret it down the road as my riding styles become more aggressive. Thanks for your input, Very helpful.

    Quote Originally Posted by reedfe View Post
    I own a 2010 Reba Team which has the threshold knob. I do not believe that the RL has threshold adjustment. The RLT does have threshold adjustment which is what the "T" stands for. That is what you're paying for. Its a slight upgrade in control but its well worth it in my experience. Also, if you are looking at Rebas, the new 2013s are based on a solo air while all previous models were based on dual air. Something to keep in mind when purchasing.
    The extra adjustment that is offered by the dual air fork sound alluring but the solo air sounds less complicated and easier to set up. For an average to above average rider like myself is one option that much better than the other?

    Thanks for the heads up on the '13 models though. I didn't even notice that.

    Quote Originally Posted by CannondaleF9 View Post
    If you are looking for a new fork, stay 100mm, unless you want to turn your bike into an all-Mountain hardtail. RockShox Reba would be a good budget choice, although the FOX Float 32 100mm FIT Teralogic would be a good choice. One with a CTD may be a better choice, but has a different adjustment feature.
    While I don't have any plans of riding downhill or anything crazy like that, I would like something that is capable of riding a wide variety of trail systems and would like to have something capable of anything that is thrown at it. Maybe the 120mm option would be a better fit?

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    7
    I got a trek cobia for xmas and i love it but i was wondering if i could upgrade the front suspension and if that would help. My dad and i decided on this bike expecting me to be happy with it for a long time and i do like it but it gets very hard to control when going fast over root, rocks, jumps and some little drops. Last week i literally bounced off my bike haha. I really like it going along just fire trails and just groomed dirt, but you dont really expect a 14 year old kid to not like doing jumps and stuff. Sorry i sound like i have no idea what im talking about but any suggestions to some longer forks and will they help. it would be good if they werent really heavy and expensive because im really weak and thin. IM 6ft if that helps.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    7
    And right now i think they are 100mm

  14. #14
    rebmem rbtm
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    3,056
    I dont want to put a super expensive fork on a bike that wasn't super expensive to begin with. I do foresee keeping this bike for a long time though.
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/25044-315_MAN112-43-Brands-213-Manitou/Manitou-Minute-Expert-Rim_Disc-QR-Fork-2012.htm

    It isn't the best fork money can buy but it's a great fork for the price, it's very adjustable and gets good reviews. Performance wise you'd probably have to spend over $400 to get a similar fork from another brand.


    If your current 100mm fork is the stock one that came on the bike then comparing it to the one I linked above would be like comparing apples to oranges.

  15. #15
    I kill hills.
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by cobba View Post
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/25044-315_MAN112-43-Brands-213-Manitou/Manitou-Minute-Expert-Rim_Disc-QR-Fork-2012.htm

    It isn't the best fork money can buy but it's a great fork for the price, it's very adjustable and gets good reviews. Performance wise you'd probably have to spend over $400 to get a similar fork from another brand.


    If your current 100mm fork is the stock one that came on the bike then comparing it to the one I linked above would be like comparing apples to oranges.

    Yeah I initially was looking at those. They seem like a very solid option and the price tag is really fair too. A lot of bang for the buck with that fork... I think I am just gonna pony up and buy a Reba RL though. I just paid off my car and a tax return is right around the corner so I will have some extra cash lying around.

    Unfortunately, all the Rebas with anything other than 9QR are a lot more expensive. Might just end up sticking with the 9mm setup and save the money for my other build.

    Thanks for all the help guys!

  16. #16
    rebmem rbtm
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    3,056
    Quote Originally Posted by LeddZepp8687 View Post
    I think I am just gonna pony up and buy a Reba RL though.
    Here's some more options if you want to spend more money for a lighter fork.

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/24389-315_MAN132-3-Parts-59-Forks/Accessories/Manitou-Minute-Pro--Fork-2012.htm

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/24382-315_MAN052-3-Parts-59-Forks/Accessories/Manitou-R7-PRO-QR-Fork-2012.htm

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/24383-315_MAN062-3-Parts-59-Forks/Accessories/Manitou-R7-MRD-QR-Fork-2012.htm

    There's a few threads/posts that discuss the Minute V Reba and Minute V Recon, there's also some discussions about the different dampers the two brands use. You might find some useful info if you do some searching.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NFLcheesehead1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    194
    I also am looking to upgrade my 2012 Trek 4300 26" bike fork. I have no clue where to start or the meaning of any of the terminology mentioned such as "steerer" or "travel." I do like the fox shoxs, but probably just cause they look sweet and are popular. I ride mostly single track that is super rooty and chunky. Any help or advice is appreciated.

    Thanks!
    "Let us not become weary in doing good, for at the proper time we will reap a harvest if we do not give up." Galatians 6:9

  18. #18
    Location: SouthPole of MN
    Reputation: duggus's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,378
    I think the 15mm axle has pretty much stuck because it is stronger than a 9mm, and lighter than a 20mm... 20 is overkill if you are just a usual singletrack rider. I noticed a huge difference on my 29er going from a 9 to 15. I rode a 20 and felt the same as my 15. Just my 2 cents.

  19. #19
    29ers Forever
    Reputation: CannondaleF9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    2,646
    Quote Originally Posted by NFLcheesehead1 View Post
    I also am looking to upgrade my 2012 Trek 4300 26" bike fork. I have no clue where to start or the meaning of any of the terminology mentioned such as "steerer" or "travel." I do like the fox shoxs, but probably just cause they look sweet and are popular. I ride mostly single track that is super rooty and chunky. Any help or advice is appreciated.

    Thanks!
    A RockShox Recon Gold TK fork is a nice quality piece, without being nearly $1000, as the FOX forks are. If yo are willing to spend a little more money, go for the RockShox Reba, but for that price you might as well spend $100 more for FOX. There are many different good air forks out there, go look around and find a fork that fits your budget. Make sure you go for either a "soloair", "dualair", or other fork that you know is a air fork.
    2013 Trek Cobia- 29er serious mountain bike
    2015 Raleigh Misceo- Gravel bike
    2013 Trek 3700 Disk- play mountain bike

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mitzikatzi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,811
    Quote Originally Posted by NFLcheesehead1 View Post
    I also am looking to upgrade my 2012 Trek 4300 26" bike fork. I have no clue where to start or the meaning of any of the terminology mentioned such as "steerer" or "travel." I do like the fox shoxs, but probably just cause they look sweet and are popular. I ride mostly single track that is super rooty and chunky. Any help or advice is appreciated.

    Thanks!

    If you want to upgrade your Suntour fork
    Duct tape iz like teh Force. It has a Lite side and a Dark side and it holdz the Universe together.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NFLcheesehead1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    194
    I guess I was hoping a nice fork wouldn't be more than $200...I was a little too optimistic. My bike was only about $900, so I don't think I want to buy a fork that is over half the price of my whole bike...I think I'll wait a few years and maybe just buy a higher level bike...
    "Let us not become weary in doing good, for at the proper time we will reap a harvest if we do not give up." Galatians 6:9

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    80
    Quote Originally Posted by NFLcheesehead1 View Post
    I guess I was hoping a nice fork wouldn't be more than $200...I was a little too optimistic. My bike was only about $900, so I don't think I want to buy a fork that is over half the price of my whole bike...I think I'll wait a few years and maybe just buy a higher level bike...
    I have the 3700 and put some rs tk silver solo air forks on it,I spent almost half of what my bike cost for the forks but they were worth it over the stock suntours that came with it.

    I am sure the 4300 comes with the same suntour forks only difference is the 4300s have a lock out.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    29
    How big of a difference is it going from a suntour to a "real" fork?

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    80
    I liked having the ability to control the rebound,i am able to adjust the air pressure for where i plan to ride at if i want to stiffen the front end i add a few pounds if i want it softer i drops some pressure.
    Mine were also a pound lighter over the suntours.

    Now had i money i would have gone with foxes lighter and more adjustable,

  25. #25
    29ers Forever
    Reputation: CannondaleF9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    2,646
    Quote Originally Posted by AndyE12 View Post
    How big of a difference is it going from a suntour to a "real" fork?
    "Real" forks will have rebound, a more reliable lockout, and on mid-high range forks, most likely an air spring.
    2013 Trek Cobia- 29er serious mountain bike
    2015 Raleigh Misceo- Gravel bike
    2013 Trek 3700 Disk- play mountain bike

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •