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  1. #1
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    Switching from grease to oil on a Raidon due to stiction

    I recently upgraded my rockhopper suntour xcr fork to a raidon with air spring. The fork impressed me from the start and was really smooth with great small bump sensitivity. Some couple of months later I started getting some stiction on the fork which killed small bump sentivity. I tried using finsh line dry on the seals and stanchions and I also tried some silicone spray but these measures only seemed to work for a short time, and by the middle of the ride stiction was back. I decided to open it up to see what was up and re oil the foam rings but to my surprise there were no foam ring and no oil. The whole thing was splattered in some type of grease. I decided to clean the grease out and use 15wt oil like the rockshox forks use. I put in some oil soaked foam rings as it had the space where the rings go and added 10 ml of oil to each leg and put it back together.

    The fork now works incredibly smooth, even better than when it was new. I took it for a ride today and it felt great. There appear to be no leaks. So my question to you guys is: Will this fork be ok with oil instead of grease or will I kill it prematurely? If there will be no problem, then why does suntour use grease instead of oil?

    Thanks four your help!

    Cheers,
    Abel

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    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    I recently upgraded my rockhopper suntour xcr fork to a raidon with air spring. The fork impressed me from the start and was really smooth with great small bump sensitivity. Some couple of months later I started getting some stiction on the fork which killed small bump sentivity. I tried using finsh line dry on the seals and stanchions and I also tried some silicone spray but these measures only seemed to work for a short time, and by the middle of the ride stiction was back. I decided to open it up to see what was up and re oil the foam rings but to my surprise there were no foam ring and no oil. The whole thing was splattered in some type of grease. I decided to clean the grease out and use 15wt oil like the rockshox forks use. I put in some oil soaked foam rings as it had the space where the rings go and added 10 ml of oil to each leg and put it back together.

    The fork now works incredibly smooth, even better than when it was new. I took it for a ride today and it felt great. There appear to be no leaks. So my question to you guys is: Will this fork be ok with oil instead of grease or will I kill it prematurely? If there will be no problem, then why does suntour use grease instead of oil?

    Thanks four your help!

    Cheers,
    Abel
    The lower semibath oil lubes the seals. Are you referring to greasing the dust wipers? I might use synthetic grease on the wipers for assembly only. Was 10ml the spec for the lowers as I have always used 15-16ml?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by keen View Post
    The lower semibath oil lubes the seals. Are you referring to greasing the dust wipers? I might use synthetic grease on the wipers for assembly only. Was 10ml the spec for the lowers as I have always used 15-16ml?
    Thanks for your reply keen. There was no oil in the lowers, only splattered grease, so I went ahead and cleaned out the grease and replaced it with 15wt oil. Im now intrigued if this switch from grease to oil can cause some damage long term and why was it using grease instead of oil in the first place.

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    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    Thanks for your reply keen. There was no oil in the lowers, only splattered grease, so I went ahead and cleaned out the grease and replaced it with 15wt oil. Im now intrigued if this switch from grease to oil can cause some damage long term and why was it using grease instead of oil in the first place.
    sorry to revive an old thread, but how has the raidon been since switching to the oil from the grease? my raidon is starting to get slow, i'm thinking it's time for service and wondering if this is the right move.

    also, what foam rings did you put in? do you know that type/size (beyond 32mm internal)?

  5. #5
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    Hello Xeren, the fork has been great. I havent touched it since then and it has been ridden plenty. All of the excessive stiction was gone when I switched to oil and it seems to be performing just as good today, very plush. I have noticed some minor leaking in one of the lower bolts, but it is very minor. It just show up as a little bit of humidity on the dirt and dust around that bolt. At least it lets me know that there is still oil in the fork! An thin oil ring forms around my stanchions after some days of riding when I forget to wipe them clean, but its not an inconvenience. Ill get worried when I stop seeing it, Ill know then its time to clean the lowers and add a couple of CCs of oil again.

    I had no spare foam rings lying around at that time so I made some from a piece of foam I found in the house that seemed very similar to the fork foam ring on my other shocks (rock shox), Im sure you could use the same ones RS uses for their 32mm forks, something like this:
    Amazon.com : RockShox Foam oil ring, Pike, Reba*, SID (32mm) : Bike Oils : Sports & Outdoors

    Cheers!

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    Thanks so much abelfonseca! Last night I added ~15cc of 20wt gold Fox fork oil (b/c it was the only oil I had on hand) in each leg and it feels like a new fork again! I didn't even bother cleaning out the lower legs, as I figure i will do a proper job once i have those foam rings to add. For now, i'm scared to store the bike upside down without the foam rings, but that's not a big deal.

    Thanks again for all your help! i'll report back after a little while with how it's working out.


    One thing i will add for others looking for answers here, b/c i couldn't find it anywhere else, was, when I unscrewed the bottom bolts, I think it loosened the lockout bolt at the top of the fork, as the lockout suddenly stopped working.

    Here's the part I discovered after an hour of trial and error though. Once you remove the blue top cap, and then remove the black knob (seen at 50 sec in of this video: ) with pliers, there is a place to put a 5mm hex key, and you need to tighten that to 10nm, BUT, then, you can stick a 4mm hex key even deeper down into that hole, and that had come really loose- it took like 5 turns to re-tighten it (don't tighten that to 10nm as well, just to where it stops turning).

    THEN, when i reinstalled the little black plastic knob that has the 4mm hex attached to it, i realized that it wasn't working, because the little 4mm hex piece had gotten pushed up into the knob, so when i reinstalled it, it didn't reach down far enough to turn the internals like the 4mm hex key did. I had to use a pair of pliers to pull the hex out of the knob and push it back in to the knob less far, so that when i reinstalled the knob+hex, it sat deeper and actually could turn the internals to lock and unlock.

    I was up way too late last night figuring that last bit out, but it was worth it!

  7. #7
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    Glad it worked! The foam ring will not work as a seal, what will stop oil from leaking out when laying your bike upside down are the dust wipers, assuming they are in good shape. The job of the foam ring is to collect oil to lubricate the stanchions as they cycle up and down through the foam rings, they also trap any dust that gets past the dust wiper. This will insure that there is always a small coating of oil on them. 15 CC might be on the high side, but if the fork is going through all of its travel and is not hydro locking, I guess your good.

    Cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    Glad it worked! The foam ring will not work as a seal, what will stop oil from leaking out when laying your bike upside down are the dust wipers, assuming they are in good shape. The job of the foam ring is to collect oil to lubricate the stanchions as they cycle up and down through the foam rings, they also trap any dust that gets past the dust wiper. This will insure that there is always a small coating of oil on them. 15 CC might be on the high side, but if the fork is going through all of its travel and is not hydro locking, I guess your good.

    Cheers
    Ah, that makes sense - i guess i won't worry about how i store it!

    Fox says to use 30cc in each leg for their 2014 forks with the new closed dampers, but I think they have much more volume inside the leg, so i thought 15cc was being conservative! I'll keep an eye on it to make sure it's not doing anything funky though.

  9. #9
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    Hello Abel and Xeren. Im experiencing the same thing on my 2013 29er Raidon and would like to do the same procedure. Did you follow any video or manual in the disassembly? I found a digram of how similar forks are designed. SR has some how to videos but im not sure which steps to follow.

    BikeRadar.com ? View topic - Suntour Raidon air suspension adjustment
    Tech Videos*- SR SUNTOUR Cycling

    I'm assuming this model has no oil baths, and uses sealed cartridges on both sides. One with lockout/dampener and the other with the air cartridge and springs. I'm a bit lost where it is you would be putting oil. Are you creating an oil bath in the lowers? or are you opening the dampening cartridge cleaning the grease and filling with oil from the top, and then filling both lowers with oil to keep the spring/piston lubricated?
    Thank You

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jokaankit View Post
    Hello Abel and Xeren. Im experiencing the same thing on my 2013 29er Raidon and would like to do the same procedure. Did you follow any video or manual in the disassembly? I found a digram of how similar forks are designed. SR has some how to videos but im not sure which steps to follow.

    BikeRadar.com ? View topic - Suntour Raidon air suspension adjustment
    Tech Videos*- SR SUNTOUR Cycling

    I'm assuming this model has no oil baths, and uses sealed cartridges on both sides. One with lockout/dampener and the other with the air cartridge and springs. I'm a bit lost where it is you would be putting oil. Are you creating an oil bath in the lowers? or are you opening the dampening cartridge cleaning the grease and filling with oil from the top, and then filling both lowers with oil to keep the spring/piston lubricated?
    Thank You
    this video is very helpful



    (you can ignore minutes 1:51 - 4:52 since that involves replacing the cartridge)

    essentially, you're going to let the air out of the fork, pull the fork lowers (0:45 - 1:51), clean them out with a dust free rag, then put them back on (4:52 - 5:10), but before you replace the lower leg bolts, turn the whole fork upside down and use a small oral syringe (you can get them for free/cheap at most pharmacies) to feed the oil into the fork lowers via the lower leg bolt holes. I used 15cc in each leg, but that might not be necessary, or even possibly too much, i would use maybe 10cc.

    then, thread the bolts back into the lower leg at 10NM torque on each side. pumping air back into the air valve will probably help push the upper part of the fork into the lower so you can properly bolt the lowers back on. you may also need to stick a hex wrench in the lower leg bolt holes to properly guide the upper portion into alignment with the lower leg bolt holes

  11. #11
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    Thanks xeren the fork works like new if not better. I went a head and installed a foam ring from a fox 32mm low resistance set. I failed to remove the original dust wipes, and simply inserted the oiled foam ring. The results are impressive, yet very dusty. I personally don't see a need for the oiled foam ring as the original dust wipes had plenty of lube. The top of the stanchions were covered in mud and debris after my ride today, even though it hasn't rained in a few days. I think its the oil attracting the dust, hopefully this will subside as the foam ring dries. So if you haven't installed o-rings don't, simply flip the bike over for a few seconds before a ride.

    Tip: I used a small amount of sealant on the bottom bolts to prevent any oil leaks. No drips/ signs of oil moisture yet..

  12. #12
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    Delete, posted in wrong topic
    Last edited by huckleberry hound; 03-13-2015 at 08:48 AM. Reason: I posted this in wrong place.

  13. #13
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    FWIW, I'm running with about 15 cc in each stanchion. I highly doubt you'll be hydrolocking the fork with such small quantities. Especially if you're not running max travel.

  14. #14
    FJP
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    Hi there,

    Interesting post. I have a question about adding oil into my SR Suntour Epicon X1 (2013). I am a bit confused about where to put the oil for what I have read at a couple of different fora.

    In this topic it is said that you can add oil into both legs (Air side and Rebound/Lockout side) from the bottom.

    But in the video below oil is added in the air side leg from the top:


    So now I have a couple of questions:

    1. What is the difference between adding oil from the bottom and from the top?
    2. What is the best way to add oil into my fork? From the bottom or from the top?
    3. Is it also possible to add oil from the top at the rebound/lockout side?
    4. Can I use LHM+ oil to put in the lower legs and possibly also the damper itself? I have this oil in stock for also bleeding my Magura MT2 brakes


    Looking forward to your replies. Thanks in advance!

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    oil in the top will affect the air spring not the stachions sliding in the lowers

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    Quote Originally Posted by FJP View Post

    1. What is the difference between adding oil from the bottom and from the top?
    2. What is the best way to add oil into my fork? From the bottom or from the top?
    3. Is it also possible to add oil from the top at the rebound/lockout side?
    4. Can I use LHM+ oil to put in the lower legs and possibly also the damper itself? I have this oil in stock for also bleeding my Magura MT2 brakes


    Looking forward to your replies. Thanks in advance!
    1 and 3. Answered above. To lubricate your fork with oil, you have to do it from the bottom.
    2. From the bottom: Flip the bike upside down, take the rebound adjuster off, loosen the bolts, tap them with a rubber mallet, slide the legs off (up) a bit, pour the oil into the holes take both bolts off, pour the oil in (I used 35 ml in each leg), assemble it back (pay attention to tighten the bolts well, if you don't the oil will leak!), flip the bike back on its wheels and ride.
    4. Yes, you can use LHM+, I use it too.

  17. #17
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    Ok thanks, it is becomming clear to me. Final question. The purpose of putting oil (lhm+) in the air chamber (from above) is to reduce the amount of air needed to get the right sag and/or to solve air leakage. Is this correct?

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  18. #18
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    Just bumping this up again as my young cousin just got a Raleigh Tokul with this fork for xmas and already noticing the thick, black grease on the stanchions mid way through not even an hours ride. Just watched Suntours video and could not believe they show it assembled using only grease, WTF

    I will be going the Fox 20w oil route and if things go back, oh well, having that thick, nasty **** forming on the stanchions in a couple miles is absolute crap. Will also be e-mailing/contacting Suntour to say WTF they say about the matter.
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Just bumping this up again as my young cousin just got a Raleigh Tokul with this fork for xmas and already noticing the thick, black grease on the stanchions mid way through not even an hours ride. Just watched Suntours video and could not believe they show it assembled using only grease, WTF

    I will be going the Fox 20w oil route and if things go back, oh well, having that thick, nasty **** forming on the stanchions in a couple miles is absolute crap. Will also be e-mailing/contacting Suntour to say WTF they say about the matter.
    The grease on mine was like slick honey (clear in color). The fork did really well at first but the grease obviously worked its way away from the seals. If you use oil realize that you MIGHT leak oil on the rotors or pads (watch the pads for glazing). Also the fork does much better when stored at an angle so the seals and bushings are well lubricated. In the winter, @40 degrees, I have to cycle the fork before the lockout feels firm. The biggest change in the forks performance came from changing the spring curve by adding gear oil in the oil chamber. I played around with different oils in the lowers and it made little difference between brands. I settled on mobil1 synthetic, as it felt plush for a bit longer.

    Suntour has it's reasons for using grease, and the performance isn't so bad. Using oil has it's pros and cons. One of the cons is the risk of contaminating pads and risk of mixing in with dirt and grit. Stanchions and lowers were a bit cleaner with suntour's grease. If the grease is really all black and dirty, clean and switch to oil. If it's still clean add grease to the seals and bushings and be done with it. This fork is really good for the money but takes some effort to get dialed in. Also if the bike is new with less than 100 miles on it let the seals break in a bit before deciding to spend money on it. Good luck, I'm sure your cousin will enjoy.

  20. #20
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    My little cousin is only 12 and I think weighs 90-100lbs, so don't think I'll have to worry about the actual performance of the fork yet, but don't like the look of that black gunk that builds up on the forks at all, will surely attract dirt/grit. Don't really see why oil would seem like such a big thing considering that most other manufacturers use it in their air forks, really don't understand the grease with no additional oil lube at all, even for a low end air fork. Anyways, I have the bike here with me tonight and will pull it down and clean it up, thinking that maybe it's a fork that's sat for a while and the seals may have started to break down.

    Just placed a call to Suntour and they say they use grease in all of their forks, even the high end ones. Asked the why and was told to reduce service intervals, but just can't see the grease providing as smoooth an action as oil, especially the new Fox 20w stuff, that is pure slickness.
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    I feel this thread is quite useful. Has anyone had any negative effects of running the oil sponges? 2+ years is probably a decent test.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyfisher117 View Post
    I feel this thread is quite useful. Has anyone had any negative effects of running the oil sponges? 2+ years is probably a decent test.
    Never had a problem, I sold the fork about a 8 months ago, I think the current owner is still putting miles on it.

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    Will this work on an XCR air? And I'm not sure how much to add on each side, 35ml seems like a lot to me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by _Xceptionist View Post
    Will this work on an XCR air? And I'm not sure how much to add on each side, 35ml seems like a lot to me.
    Thanks for bumping this, I'm having the same problems with mine. Black grease, sticking after a few miles. I have XCR Air also.

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    Back when I had my XCM I used 15cc per leg.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EugeneTheJeep View Post
    Thanks for bumping this, I'm having the same problems with mine. Black grease, sticking after a few miles. I have XCR Air also.

    Does your XCR Air feel sticky all the time? mine feels sticky even after spraying finishline Max on the stanchions. It sort of goes down in sections instead of gliding smoothly through the travel.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by _Xceptionist View Post
    Does your XCR Air feel sticky all the time? mine feels sticky even after spraying finishline Max on the stanchions. It sort of goes down in sections instead of gliding smoothly through the travel.
    No not all the time, just when the black grease builds up on the stanchions, or when it's really cold out. Mine sticks on the rebound, is that what yours is doing or when you pressing down on the forks?

    I bought some fork oil over the weekend and I'll probably tear into mine this week some time.
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    Quote Originally Posted by EugeneTheJeep View Post
    No not all the time, just when the black grease builds up on the stanchions, or when it's really cold out. Mine sticks on the rebound, is that what yours is doing or when you pressing down on the forks?

    I bought some fork oil over the weekend and I'll probably tear into mine this week some time.
    Mine is always sticky, my fork doesn't have a rebound adjustment knob though. But after removing the lowers its clear the damper cartridge is also causing the striction, I can just press down and it stays stuck there for a while sometimes (the LO cartridge) May I know what fork oil u bought? Tell me about the results when u try it out

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    I just finished Converting my 2015-Raidon over to an oil bath setup, with a little research I found a Fox rebuild kit(part#803-00-944) that contained all the necessary part to do the job correctly, cost me $40CDN plus $5 for 50ml of Fox Gold 20wt synthetic oil that my LBS sold my in bulk(25ml per leg).

    Right away it feels smoother and now has zero stickshion, I am betting small bump reaction will be greatly improved. I will report back with my findings after sometime on the trails.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paschfire View Post
    I just finished Converting my 2015-Raidon over to an oil bath setup, with a little research I found a Fox rebuild kit(part#803-00-944) that contained all the necessary part to do the job correctly, cost me $40CDN plus $5 for 50ml of Fox Gold 20wt synthetic oil that my LBS sold my in bulk(25ml per leg).

    Right away it feels smoother and now has zero stickshion, I am betting small bump reaction will be greatly improved. I will report back with my findings after sometime on the trails.
    Keep us updated!
    Have any links of the process you used?

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    Can I just clean the inside and add oil from the 2 bolt holes at the bottom without a foam ring? What difference would it make if I do that without a foam ring?

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    Quote Originally Posted by _Xceptionist View Post
    Can I just clean the inside and add oil from the 2 bolt holes at the bottom without a foam ring? What difference would it make if I do that without a foam ring?
    I just did it today, we'll find out later!
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    This is what the black grease looks like.





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  34. #34
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    Cleaned out the lowers like you would a rifle/shotgun, except I used a very long screwdriver with a ball of duct tape on the end wrapped in old tube socks and paper towels lol! Took quite a while and got rid of some old nasty socks

    View with a flashlight up the bottom hole like a bore scope.

    Dirty



    Clean

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  35. #35
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    Where to put the fork oil, I used about 15 ml per side.



    Some of the stuff needed. I used Bel Ray 10w I grabbed off the shelf at the motorcycle shop down the street. Grease for the wipes, loctite for the caliper bolts etc.

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    I'm no expert and I don't really know how the open oil baths work in other forks but if you just put the oil into the fork how is it lubing the stanchions? Won't it just settle in the bottom of the lowers?

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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyfisher117 View Post
    I'm no expert and I don't really know how the open oil baths work in other forks but if you just put the oil into the fork how is it lubing the stanchions? Won't it just settle in the bottom of the lowers?

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    Yes most of it does settle in the bottom, but just tip the bike upside down for a sec before a ride like someone mentioned above.
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    Well I went for a ride this morning for about an hour, everything is so smooth and clean. No sticking and rebound works awesome. So this DOES work on the XCR Air fork as well as Raidon. Many thanks to the OP for starting this thread, I was actually thinking of buying a new fork because of these issues, but now I don't have to!
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    I am looking to change from grease to oil on a 2015 raidon fitted to a voodoo bizango.All is fine except that under the rebound adjuster is a allen key bolt with a plastic stem in the middle. do you have to use a hollow allen key (if such a thing exists) or am i missing something. cheers

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paschfire View Post
    I just finished Converting my 2015-Raidon over to an oil bath setup, with a little research I found a Fox rebuild kit(part#803-00-944) that contained all the necessary part to do the job correctly.
    I've got some Suntour 32mm wiper seals that measure about 41.30mm Outside Diameter. The Fox standard is nominal 42mm and usually measures just over 42mm. I'm surprised the Fox wipers went in for you. Were they hard to install? I had assumed (based on the actual Suntour product measurement) that our 32mm seal kit would not fit Suntour 32mm forks.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyfisher117 View Post
    Keep us updated!
    Have any links of the process you used?

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    Sorry no links...
    I just looked at Rockshox & Fox setup diagrams in a Google search for reference, then hit the LBS to see what they carried for parts.
    The Fox kit I bought contained: 2x 32mm foam rings, 2x 6mm plastic crush washers, 1x 6mm aluminum crush washer and 2x dust wipers.


    I sure I could have bought all the parts separate and cheaper than $44 from the web, but hey... They had it... and well, priorities.


    So... It was all pretty simple, once I had the fork apart I just clean out as much grease from the fork legs as I could, using a lint free cloth wrapped around a metal coat hangar bent into a loop.
    Then soaking the foam rings in the 20wt oil making sure they get totally saturated in oil, finished with slipping them into place under the dust wipers using my fingers (yep there is a space for'em )


    With the foam rings oiled and in place, I slipped the fork legs back onto the stanchions about half way down, then using a small funnel poured 25ml of 20wt oil into both lower leg bolt holes, tighten up the leg bolts and your done!

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paschfire View Post
    Sorry no links...
    I just looked at Rockshox & Fox setup diagrams in a Google search for reference, then hit the LBS to see what they carried for parts.
    The Fox kit I bought contained: 2x 32mm foam rings, 2x 6mm plastic crush washers, 1x 6mm aluminum crush washer and 2x dust wipers.


    I sure I could have bought all the parts separate and cheaper than $44 from the web, but hey... They had it... and well, priorities.


    So... It was all pretty simple, once I had the fork apart I just clean out as much grease from the fork legs as I could, using a lint free cloth wrapped around a metal coat hangar bent into a loop.
    Then soaking the foam rings in the 20wt oil making sure they get totally saturated in oil, finished with slipping them into place under the dust wipers using my fingers (yep there is a space for'em )


    With the foam rings oiled and in place, I slipped the fork legs back onto the stanchions about half way down, then using a small funnel poured 25ml of 20wt oil into both lower leg bolt holes, tighten up the leg bolts and your done!
    So you didn't replace the dust wipers just put the foam rings in?

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    I've got some Suntour 32mm wiper seals that measure about 41.30mm Outside Diameter. The Fox standard is nominal 42mm and usually measures just over 42mm. I'm surprised the Fox wipers went in for you. Were they hard to install? I had assumed (based on the actual Suntour product measurement) that our 32mm seal kit would not fit Suntour 32mm forks.
    I should have mentioned I only used the 2x 32mm foam rings, 2x crush washers and the SAG 'O'ring from the kit, I left the stock Suntour wipers of my Raidon in place.
    The 2x spare Fox 32mm wipers I donated to my LBS for spare parts.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by 950sm07 View Post
    So you didn't replace the dust wipers just put the foam rings in?
    No, since my Raidon had only ruffly 30km of ride time on it and upon inspection the stock wipers seemed to be in perfect shape, so I seen no reason to replace them with newer ones.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paschfire View Post
    No, since my Raidon had only ruffly 30km of ride time on it and upon inspection the stock wipers seemed to be in perfect shape, so I seen no reason to replace them with newer ones.
    OK thanks, it wasn't clear from your first comment.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paschfire View Post
    Sorry no links...
    I just looked at Rockshox & Fox setup diagrams in a Google search for reference, then hit the LBS to see what they carried for parts.
    The Fox kit I bought contained: 2x 32mm foam rings, 2x 6mm plastic crush washers, 1x 6mm aluminum crush washer and 2x dust wipers.


    I sure I could have bought all the parts separate and cheaper than $44 from the web, but hey... They had it... and well, priorities.


    So... It was all pretty simple, once I had the fork apart I just clean out as much grease from the fork legs as I could, using a lint free cloth wrapped around a metal coat hangar bent into a loop.
    Then soaking the foam rings in the 20wt oil making sure they get totally saturated in oil, finished with slipping them into place under the dust wipers using my fingers (yep there is a space for'em )


    With the foam rings oiled and in place, I slipped the fork legs back onto the stanchions about half way down, then using a small funnel poured 25ml of 20wt oil into both lower leg bolt holes, tighten up the leg bolts and your done!
    Sweet thanks! When I get ready to give my Raidon it's first service/clean up I may consider doing this.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  47. #47
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    I did the "upgrade" on my 2016 Raidon 27+ Boost fork and I was surprised because there were foam rings in it already. Cleaned it and put 15ml oil in both side so far so good no leaking and the travel is smooth. I was thinking on upgrading it to Reba but cannot fault the Raidon I'll keep it for now.

  48. #48
    FJP
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    Great topic and good to see it is still active and the thanks to that I have gained some valuable extra information. I want to execute this shortly on my Epicon X2. While riding I have an annoying ticking sound which comes from the fork. I hope cleaning everything and using oil will solve this.

    So just to be sure I want to perform the following steps:
    1. Remove Air
    2. Remove lower legs and clean them completely on the inside (removing any grease).
    3. Put legs back on, add 15cc oil (LHM+) into both legs
    4. Put in bolts and tighten them*
    5. Pump in air and spray a bit of brunox deo on the stanchions
    6. Test ride

    *Can I use PFTE Teflon tape on the bolts to minimise risk of leaking oil?

    If some has any remarks please let me know :-)

    Thanks!


    Sent from my V919 Air DualOS using Tapatalk

  49. #49
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    Interesting seeing this... My 2011 RS Revelation is done and I have an old Manitou Tower that is not getting used. Through the upgrade program I will be getting an Auron RC2 so I will be interested to see what the internals of the Auron are like.

    I did multiple services on my Revy so I am sure that the differences are pretty minor but something that they say to do to help CLEAN you fork is to use ISOPROPYL Alcohol in a spray bottle and spray on everything then wipe off. This goes as far as spraying the inside of the lower legs and cleaning out just as you guys have.

    Couple modifications to this process I would suggest (and will try once I have my Auron) are....
    - disassembly lower legs from stanchions and spray with Isopropyl Alcohol to clean. Be sure to wipe everything down.
    - spray isopropyl alcohol inside lower legs and wrap paper towel or clean cloth around a stick and clean out lower legs
    - When re-installing the legs, wipe a small amount of Slick Honey (or equivalent) around the inside of the dust wipers to aid in installation
    - before complete installing lower legs turn the fork on its side (preferably in a bike stand) and add 15ml of 15wt oil to each lower leg. Finish installation of lower leg and snug up all bolts.

    @FJP - if you are hearing a creaking you may have a creaky steerer/crown. This is something that lots of different forks have issues with and ultimately, unless there has been a mass incident with building of the forks from the mfg you will just have to deal with it. You can always check with Suntour and see if they would do anything for you.

  50. #50
    FJP
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Interesting seeing this... My 2011 RS Revelation is done and I have an old Manitou Tower that is not getting used. Through the upgrade program I will be getting an Auron RC2 so I will be interested to see what the internals of the Auron are like.

    I did multiple services on my Revy so I am sure that the differences are pretty minor but something that they say to do to help CLEAN you fork is to use ISOPROPYL Alcohol in a spray bottle and spray on everything then wipe off. This goes as far as spraying the inside of the lower legs and cleaning out just as you guys have.

    Couple modifications to this process I would suggest (and will try once I have my Auron) are....
    - disassembly lower legs from stanchions and spray with Isopropyl Alcohol to clean. Be sure to wipe everything down.
    - spray isopropyl alcohol inside lower legs and wrap paper towel or clean cloth around a stick and clean out lower legs
    - When re-installing the legs, wipe a small amount of Slick Honey (or equivalent) around the inside of the dust wipers to aid in installation
    - before complete installing lower legs turn the fork on its side (preferably in a bike stand) and add 15ml of 15wt oil to each lower leg. Finish installation of lower leg and snug up all bolts.

    @FJP - if you are hearing a creaking you may have a creaky steerer/crown. This is something that lots of different forks have issues with and ultimately, unless there has been a mass incident with building of the forks from the mfg you will just have to deal with it. You can always check with Suntour and see if they would do anything for you.
    Thanks for the info. I hear/feel some minor "clicks" when fork suspension is working away small bumps. It is gone when I lock the fork. I will check the fork crown.

    About the 15wt oil. Should this be mineral, synthetic, semi-synthetic or doesn't this matter? I know LHM+ mineral oil can be used also, but was just curious regarding the type of oil best to use.

    Sent from my eMAX mini using Tapatalk

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