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  1. #1
    SS XC Junkie
    Reputation: dontheclysdale's Avatar
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    RS Reba Team Travel Adjustments

    Got a couple of questions that I can't seem to find the answer to at SRAM, the RS instructions, or in this forum. I should note, I don't have the fork, it is currently at Push getting tuned for me.

    1. How do I adjust the travel (80,100,120) on my RS Reba Team?

    2. Does changing the travel, change the length of the fork?

    I'm building a Lynskey Pro29 for my racing endeavor and I'm worried that the Reba at 120mm is going to make the pro29 less responsive in the tight twisties. Lynskey recommends a 100mm fork. I went with this shock because it was my only option for a 29er fork with a 20mm thru axle AND Push tunable. Mike at Lynskey said that 120mm is going to slightly slow down turning. At first I didn't think it was a big deal BUT yesterday I did my first race and it was on some very tight and twisty single track. I had a difficult time keeping my Turner Sultan on the trail at higher speeds. It's setup for AM and I know this makes a big difference especially with the 135wb fork but I'm now very worried about the Lynskey not being responsive in the tight twisties. I'm assuming that the Lynskey w/ the 120 RS fork will be significantly more responsive than my Turner but after yesterday I'm really concerned.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: chanorama's Avatar
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    Here's a link to travel adjustment for a dual air fork. It's the SID, but the process is the same. I've changed travel on my SID, Recon, and Tora. You'll need spacers to reduce travel. You can buy or make them.

    SID Travel Conversion DIY Guide - 80mm to 100mm

    If you're mechanically inclined and have tools, the process is pretty simple. If you want a shop to do it, Don't let them charge you too much, it shouldn't take them more than 20 minutes. Maybe Push can do it while it's there.

    Yes, adjusting the travel changes the fork length (axle to crown measurement). I't will alter the length of stanchion visible above the lowers. Altering A to C measurement will affect geometry. Generally 20mm equals 1degree of headtube angle.
    Last edited by chanorama; 02-21-2010 at 11:39 AM. Reason: typos and more info
    It's your thing, Do what you want to do

  3. #3
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    With a new set of forks there should be one of the spacers supplied in a bag with the manual
    Rimmer - "There's an old human saying - if you talk garbage, expect pain"

  4. #4
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    This is from my reply to another thread on this subject. It's instructions for a new SID, but the Reba is close to the same. Also, picture directions are available from www.rockshox.com.

    To do it the ghetto way, you'll need a deep 10mm socket, a large adjustable wrench, measuring cup or syringe, a rubber mallet, and 15w fork oil.

    Ghettotastic:
    1. Using the deep 10mm socket, loosen the long nut as the bottom of the negative air stem, and unscrew it all the way to the top of the stem.
    2. Release all air from the negative and positive air chambers.
    3. Using the large adjustable wrench, remove the left side top cap, and drain the oil inside.
    4. Put the 10mm socket back on the nut you loosened, and then hit it with the rubber mallet to break the rod free from the bottom of the leg. Oil will come out.
    5. Push the rod and piston up and out of the fork. You might need to use a long punch or rod to gently push the piston and rod up through the leg.
    6. Remove the black elastomer bottom out bumper, and remove the black plastic travel spacer under it.
    7. Reinstall the black elastomer bottom out bumper.
    8. Wipe any dirt off the rod and piston, and lubricate the o-rings with 15w fork oil.
    9. Reinsert the piston and rod into the fork leg.
    10. Invert the fork and pour/inject 5ml of 15w fork oil through the hole where the negative air stem comes out. You might need to push the air stem into the fork to make enough room. I use a piece of tube and a syringe.
    11. Install the negative air stem nut and snug it down.
    12. Pour 5ml of 15w fork oil on top of the piston.
    13. Reinstall the top cap and tighten it down. Lube the o-ring on it with 15w fork oil.
    14. Inflate the positive air chamber to about 90 psi.
    15. Torque the negative air stem nut to the proper tightness.
    16. Inflate the negative air chamber and set sag.


    To do it the SRAM sanctioned way you'll need a deep 10mm socket, a 24mm socket, a rubber mallet, a long 5mm allen wrench, a measuring cup or syringe, a rubber mallet, an in/lbs torque wrench, inside snap ring pliers, and 15w fork oil.

    Non-Ghettotastic:
    1. Using the deep 10mm socket, loosen the long nut as the bottom of the negative air stem, and unscrew it all the way to the top of the stem.
    2. Pull rebound adjuster off fork, and use 5mm allen to loose nut.
    3. Release all air from the negative and positive air chambers.
    4. Using the large adjustable wrench, remove the left side top cap, and drain the oil inside.
    5. Put the 10mm socket back on the nut you loosened, and then hit it with the rubber mallet to break the rod free from the bottom of the leg. Oil will come out.
    6. Do the same thing on the damper side using the 5mm allen instead of a socket.
    7. Pull the lowers off the fork and allow them to drain completely.
    8. On the bottom of the stanchion, while pushing up on the black plastic cap, use the snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring. Pull the air piston and rod assembly out through the bottom of the stanchion.
    9. Remove the black elastomer bottom out bumper, and remove the black plastic travel spacer under it.
    10. Reinstall the black elastomer bottom out bumper.
    11. Wipe any dirt off the rod and piston, and lubricate the o-rings with 15w fork oil.
    12. Reinsert the piston and rod in through the bottom of the stanchion.
    13. Reinstall the black cap, washer, and spring washer, and then reinstall the snap ring, making sure the rounded edge is facing up toward the black cap. Rotate the cap if necessary to seat snap ring is recess on the black cap.
    14. Lubricate the foam rings under the wipers of the lowers with 15w fork oil, and reinstall the lowers.
    15. Invert the fork and pour/inject 5ml of 15w fork oil through each hole in the bottom of the fork. You might need to push the air stem into the fork to make enough room. I use a piece of tube and a syringe.
    16. Install the negative air stem nut and damper side nut and snug them down.
    17. Pour 5ml of 15w fork oil on top of the air piston.
    18. Reinstall the top cap and tighten it down to 65 in/lbs. Lube the o-ring on it with 15w fork oil.
    19. Inflate the positive air chamber to about 90 psi.
    20. Torque the negative air stem nut to 45 in/lbs.
    21. Torque the damper side nut to 60 in/lbs.
    22. Push the rebound adjuster back into place.
    23. Inflate the negative air chamber and set sag.

  5. #5
    SS XC Junkie
    Reputation: dontheclysdale's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! That's exactly what I needed. Even better, I'll call Push tomorrow and see if they can set it at 100 so I don't have too. I'd rather not have to go into the fork once they do what they do.

  6. #6
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    another necro... i'm confused. is the RS Reba Team dual air adjustable into: 80/100mm or 80/100/120mm or 85/100/115 ??? i get varying info from all the sources... i'm not sure what year mine is (bought used) but it's the remote poploc version.

  7. #7
    g3h6o3
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    You need the year to know. A 2008 is 85/100/115 but 2009+ are 80/100/120 if I remember correctly
    Check out my SportTracks plugins for some training aid software.

  8. #8
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    thanks! i heard the new ones got limited to 100mm but i'm sure mine is between 2006-2008 and not v-brake compatible. so all of them has another level above 100mm?

  9. #9
    g3h6o3
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    I'm pretty sure, yes! Remove the air spring assembly and look for a 15mm spacer that you can easily pop out.
    Check out my SportTracks plugins for some training aid software.

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