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  1. #1
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    Rockshox Revelation rct3 lockout problems

    for the second time in 4 weeks, the blue motion control lever on my revelation rct3 solo air fork have jammed in the lockout position. when this occurs it loses lockout, and the fork is in effect fully open. on both occasions the problem always occurs when riding home on the road (hence being in lockout) after been out for the day, and I first notice the front end bob when riding up a bank.
    The first time it occurred 4 weeks ago, I took the forks back to the shop - they sent it off to sram, 2 weeks later they came back with a replaced cartridge.
    the forks are 4 months old, - anyone had similar problems? Is there an easy fix? I am no fork expert, but given the time can usually see myself round most things.

    any thought appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Reputation: trailbildr's Avatar
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    Replaced cartridge? There is a damper in the leg, but no cartridge. I'm guessing they just put a new damper in there. The RCT3 damper threads in and out of the stanchion. I'm guessing the spring that loads the compression shims got bound? That's happened to a few people.

    Good luck. It should be fine now.

    mk
    TrailWerks Cyclery
    TrailWerks Suspension Service

    trailwerkssuspension.com
    trailwerkscyclery.com

  3. #3
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    Rockshox Revelation rct3 lockout problems-photo2.jpg

    pulled the damper out and got to the bottom of the problem, deffo a warranty job, though why it is happening is beyond me, if the problem 4 weeks ago was caused by the same issue, which i believe it was, as the end result was exactly the same, then I would love to know why, as twice in 4 weeks on a new set of forks is a bit strange? especially when the damper unit was replaced last time.

    anyway I am no good on technical names, so took a pic. as you can see the metal plate on the top of the rod has chipped, the reverse of the other is the same. why this is failing when in lockout, whilst riding on the least technical surface possible - ie flatish tarmac or track is beyond me? - sorry about the wall paper , missus is away so took the bike apart in the kitchen - she likes the retro stuff.

  4. #4
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    Tell them you want the rlt damper this time

  5. #5
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    My RCT3 is doing the exact same thing. I keep it in the middle position (pedal) with lsc 5 clicks from full on. As soon as the fork becomes active it pulls out of the slot and jams up in a position it should never be in resulting in little no compression damping. Anyone have a DIY solution?

  6. #6
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    I had the same problem with the rct3 damper on my '14 rev. The double prongs that get nicked up are what interface the adjuster to the damper. Basically it's like a key in a slot so it can be rotated but still be free to move up and down. What happens is it pops out of the slot but gets caught on the edge instead of sliding back in.

    I was able to repair the damper, but it's a tricky job to disassemble and reassemble. There are these 2 tiny little bolts that hold together a linkage on the valve that allows the shims to "wobble" a bit and if you over-tighten them the assembly won't pivot freely like it's supposed to. I have also seen some posts where people had the damper fail because these bolts came loose. Best is to use Loctite 243 (NOT the same as 242) since it will work on non ferrous metals and is OK with some oil contamination.

    Anyway, make sure to change the damper oil and clean out any tiny bits of aluminum that were in there from the damage. You disassemble the damper so that you can clean up the ends of those prongs very carefully with a file and some sandpaper. You don't want any rough or sharp edges on the ends of those prongs. If you can make it really smooth and shiny with the top edges rounded off a bit, it should stop it from getting stuck again.

    Another problem I had with the damper which may or may not have been related to the adjuster prong jamming (I fixed both issues at the same time), was that the adjuster knob lever assembly had rotated slightly where it threads into the main damper body.
    Here:
    Name:  photo2.jpg
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    It's a plastic piece threaded into a plastic piece, and it looked like there was some kind of adhesive on it that had failed and allowed it to rotate. This messed up the clocking of the ports, so that the open position had the ports partly blocked and the lockout position had the ports partly open. I was able to use a thin wrap of teflon tape on the plastic threads so that when I tightened it up snug the ports were clocked correctly.

  7. #7
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    Cheap fork get rid of it

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