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  1. #1
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    RockShox Recon Silver??

    Hi all,
    I've just finished replacing the brakes on my 05 Hardrock and the modifying bug has got me.
    I now want to replace my front shocks (RST Gila Plus T6) to something a bit better (preferrably air) with a bit more travel (100mm minimum).
    I've been looking at RockShox as I don't know much about shock brands and I have heard you can't go wrong with them.
    My pricerange is $200-$300 (Prefferably around the $250 mark) and I understand I'm not going to get the best shock on the market.
    There are a few things I want in the shock and a lockout is definately something I need.
    Can anyone explain to me what a Poploc with a custom spring is?
    I am tossing up between a RockShox Tora TK and a RockShox Recon Silver, both are in my pricerange (on JensonUSA where I would prefer to buy), but if anyone else has any ideas on other shocks on the market, I'm open to ideas.
    Can anyone help me out with my questions, and any other shocks on the market with what I'd like?
    Also can a lock off be put on a bike when it didn't have one from factory (room wise on the bars-see attached pic of my bars)?
    And how hard are these to install by myself?
    I run BB7's with a 185mm rotor on the front, I hear there are tolerances with the forks?
    I think that's all...
    Thanks in advance
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Recon Silver??-img_4305%5B1%5D.jpg  

    RockShox Recon Silver??-img_4304%5B1%5D.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Also should note that I'm now running SR7 Levers with my BB7's so if that changes the room on the bar you know...

  3. #3
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    In Australia I see. then E bay Air Tora is a good deal.
    Duct tape iz like teh Force. It has a Lite side and a Dark side and it holdz the Universe together.

  4. #4
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    Yeah I am That is a great deal - I didn't even think to look on eBay. I will look into that more definately.
    I apologize for the noob question, but can you put lockouts on air shocks?

  5. #5
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Specialized03 View Post
    Too much fork for a Hardrock. 180mm travel and a thru axle and a 1.5 inch steerer. Won't fit.
    Duct tape iz like teh Force. It has a Lite side and a Dark side and it holdz the Universe together.

  7. #7
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    Well thats a shame. So I'm actually limited to around 100mm travel and certain axles and steerers?
    It's embarrasing I don't know this haha.
    What is the installation like for a fork transfer? Bolt on, or is there fiddling with spacers etc?

  8. #8
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    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...r+Fork+11.aspx

    Are Marzocchi any good? These seem to have all of the features

  9. #9
    rebmem rbtm
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by cobba View Post
    Thanks mate, I definately will-it'll save me hundreds on shipping!

  11. #11
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    So before I buy I need to know:
    Tora or Recon?
    The Recon is air and seems the better product but the TK has the handlebar lockout which was what I wanted. Can you get handlebar lockouts for the Recon?
    And also, how hard is installation?

  12. #12
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    Ok so I've done my research.
    I need to know if anyone knows of a handlebar remote lockout kit that would fit on the Recon I want?

  13. #13
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    got the same question here, recon vs tora, what is the advantage of each one?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by volksforlife View Post
    got the same question here, recon vs tora, what is the advantage of each one?
    From what I've found, the toras advantage is it's cheaper and of you want a handlebar lockout it comes with one. The recon is a better shock and you can buy a handlebar lockout for them but it will end up costing $80 for one over the $240-ish of the shock.

    Personally I'm going to save for the recon as I want the air shock and it has all the knobs and buttons to play with I'll get a handlebar lockout eventually

  15. #15
    Haro Sonix LT VL120
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    Recon is basically a lighter Tora. On some models it has better damping. Look for the models with Motion control damping. This system is better than the Turn Key damping system.

    You can buy Recons with the remote already attached. If you buy one w/o a remote and you want the remote, than you will have to buy a new damper that is compatible with a remote. The newer recons and toras have been kind of dumbed down to allow for the new Rock Shox Sektor for which takes its place between the Recon and the Revelation.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by D-Avid View Post
    Recon is basically a lighter Tora. On some models it has better damping. Look for the models with Motion control damping. This system is better than the Turn Key damping system.

    You can buy Recons with the remote already attached. If you buy one w/o a remote and you want the remote, than you will have to buy a new damper that is compatible with a remote. The newer recons and toras have been kind of dumbed down to allow for the new Rock Shox Sektor for which takes its place between the Recon and the Revelation.
    Where would I find a recon with the remote lockout already installed?
    And with the cost of that would I be better off extending my price range to allow for the next model which is air driven, has the remote lockout etc?
    Here's the kit I was looking at: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=54650
    And again, what is the installation like? I think the poploc kit may prove to be tricky but what about the actual swap of the forks?

  17. #17
    Haro Sonix LT VL120
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    I have Poploc and Pushloc and they both are very simple to install. If you are looking to install the damper itself, that should be pretty simple too. You will need the manual for the fork so you can add the correct amount/weight oil.

    I think you'd be better off buying a fork that already has the poploc installed. An older, new recon would be cheaper and you could get it with moco and poploc. Deep your eye on ebay and clearance sales at online bicycle part suppliers.

    As far as the install of the actual for, it is pretty easy as long as you have an idea of how everything goes. basically what you have is the steerer tube that goes through the headtube and gets clamped onto by the stem. The stem is the part that clamps to the steerer tube and the handlebar. There is a star-fangled nut inside the top of the steerer tube. It has angled, "flaps" that dig into the inside of the steerer tube. The top cap is then screwed into the star fangled nut. The purpose of the top cap is to preload the bearings inside the headset (the cups that are pressed into the headtube) and to keep the steerer tube from moving inside the headtube.
    To install the fork you can first take out the old one. Unscrew the top cap. When you remove the top cap you will see the star fangled nut inside the fork. Then unscrew the bolts on the stem so that the stem can slide off the steerer tube. The fork should then slide out of the headtube. You will see a circular race that is at the base of the fork you just took off. Pry that off with a screw driver carefully and then slide that race over the new forks steerer tube so that it is seated snuggly and flush like it was onthe other fork. You will prolly have to cut down the new steerer tube. Just measure the tube on your old fork and then cut it with a tube cutter or hacksaw. You will need another star fangled nut if one doesn't come with the fork. The lbs will have one for a couple bucks. To install that, it has to be pressed in or carefully pounded in. A good way to pound it in is with a socket. Another way is to take the screw that you took out of the top cap and screw it into the star fangled nut. Then carefully hammer that until the nut starts to slide into the steerer tube. Make sure that the nut goes in square so that the flaps can dig in equally. hammer the nut down about an inch or so. It has to be high enough so that the screw can screw into the nut while being through the top cap. This is what holds the fork together inside the headtube. Slide the new fork tube into the frame headtube and slide the stem over the steerer tube. Tighten the stem bolts just enough tho keep the handlebar from swinging back and forth. They need to be loose enought so that the top cap can compress everything tightly. put the top cap on and slide the bolt through the top cap and screw it into the star fangled nut. Tighten the bolt until there is no play in the fork but not tighten enough where when you turn the handlebars there is a binding feeling. That means the bearings are being preloaded too much. Check play by holding the handlebar and the forks lower tube and push-pull. If there is play, tighten the top cap more until there is no play. Again, make sure you don't feel any resistance when turning the handlebars. Once the top cap is secure, tighten the stem down. If there are two bolts on the stem, tighten each one equally. Thats pretty much it.

  18. #18
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    @ D-Avid (won't quote that post as it's so large)
    Thank you for those instructions, they are very detailed, hopefully I should be able to give it a go once I get them, if I fail I'll take it to my lbs.
    Thank you a lot for your help, I'll definately keep an eye out on eBay, the cheapest I can get it brand new is $325, and I can't justify that with the riding I do.

  19. #19
    Haro Sonix LT VL120
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    If you don't ride a ton the turn key damping will do fine. You can usually find some great deals though on newer forks if you know where to look. Glad I could help.

  20. #20
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    Yeah go for MoCo damper if you can

  21. #21
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    What's the biggest travel and steering tube I can go for the Hardrock?

  22. #22
    Haro Sonix LT VL120
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    Most travel without changing the stock feel would be about 100mm. 1-1/8 steerer tube size.
    Anything over 100mm will start to make the bike feel a more relaxed, kinda like a downhill rig. Steering will start to get slower and climbing will be harder b/c you are biased to the rear vs in the middle.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by D-Avid View Post
    Most travel without changing the stock feel would be about 100mm. 1-1/8 steerer tube size.
    Anything over 100mm will start to make the bike feel a more relaxed, kinda like a downhill rig. Steering will start to get slower and climbing will be harder b/c you are biased to the rear vs in the middle.
    Ah thank you for that! I definitely want to keep the stock feel (not in the suspension but I hope you get my point) because even as the bottom-ranged specialized, it's a really nice handling bike. I don't want to get to the point of having to lighten things that I probably shouldn't need to just because I bought larger shocks and don't like the feel. Thanks for all your help!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Specialized03 View Post
    @ D-Avid (won't quote that post as it's so large)
    Thank you for those instructions, they are very detailed, hopefully I should be able to give it a go once I get them, if I fail I'll take it to my lbs.
    Thank you a lot for your help, I'll definately keep an eye out on eBay, the cheapest I can get it brand new is $325, and I can't justify that with the riding I do.
    IMPORTANT: If you are going to buy a used fork then meaure your old fork stem (basically where the bottom touches the frame to the top cap) and make sure you get a fork with atleast that much stem. A new fork will come with a huge stem like 2 feet tall and you cut it yourself to match your bike. A used one will already be cut for the first owners bike and if its too short you can't use it at all. It would actually be better to pull your fork off your bike and measure the tube so you get an accuate measurement and you will learn how your fork install off bike too. To take the fork off just take off the top cap, then take off the stem and slide your fork down and out of your frame. Measure the stem length then put back into the frame, install the top cap like D-avid's directions and then the stem.

    Also you want a fork with 1 1/8" diameter stem, QR axle. More and more forks are coming with tapered stems 1.5" and 15mm, 20mm, 24mm axles that won't work with your front wheel. Your brakes should swap to any modern fork but you may need an adapter if your old fork is is mounts and the new one is post mount or vice versa. So double check that but adapters are like $10 so its not a big deal.

  25. #25
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    Thanks for that I hadn't even thought of it yet as I'm not ready to buy yet.
    Well now I know what steerer I need hopefully I can get some prices on what forks I can get.
    What would be best to use to cut brand new forks?

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