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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm520 View Post
    no, slower the better. I open the rebound/comp clicker all the way.
    Ok, I'll give that a go and see what happens. Thanks for the help. I really don't want to send it to rockshox just because there is a knock, hopefully i can figure out what it is.

  2. #102
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    Shim Stack Tech

    I think the article on the DVO suspension website will be helpfull to understand Shim Stack Tech clearly. (Sorry I could not attach the exact link because of my limitation.)

    By the way, I need HH or MH tuned Monarch for my 2.94:1 Leverage Ratio Frame but hard to get one.
    So I am planning to buy MM one but is there much difference between Monarch RT and RT3?
    I think RT can do more fine external tune on Low Speed Compression but what is the pros of RT3 beside it can handle 3-step LSC on the fly?
    If RT3 makes things difficult to tune, I would like to have RT one.

    I am struggling to get valving shims to tune Shim Stacks, because the former link might not ship them worldwide...

  3. #103
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    2013 rt3

    After ordering the six mm shims to change my medium 2013 rt3 to a low tune, I opened it up to find that the new ones are totally different. Notice six shims in the stack. One is an inner shim with another one around it. Anyone have any shim stack info on these new ones? I couldn't get accurate thickness measurements with my plastic caliper, but they are 9mm ID.

    The stack starts at the nut, up the right column, then up the left column.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rockshox Monarch RT3 Shim Stack-2013_rt3.jpg  


  4. #104
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    2013 RT3 is quite different

    I heard that Monarch RT3 had big modify in 2013 from Rockshox or other articles online.
    And the brand-new look shims are the exact ones that makes difference, I think.

    According to the spare parts list from Rockshox, the main piston options on RT3(2011-2012) are shown like below.

    Main Piston, Tune Rebound-High/Compression-High3 - Monarch RT3/RT/R

    But only the ones of RT3 2013 shown individually as

    Tune Assembly 2013 Monarch RT3 MH F 320
    (mid rebound, high compression, firm threshold)

    This may reveal that only the RT3 has got "threshold" feature instead of using Platform Damping Shim Stack, like L3/M3/H3, since 2013.
    I am thinking "F 320" means FIRM and it has the breaking point when the pressure is 320[PSI].
    It looks like Rockshox has applied the new feature which is similar to Boost Valve settings on FOX Float.

    Rockshox claims that Monarch RT3 2013 has got greatly refined the damper to provide independent tuning in the three adjustment positions.
    It means that the open is more open, the lock has more lock, is desired by Europe style riding scene.

    For sure the brand-new numbers of shims, orders and accurate thickness information are helpful but could not find online right now.
    Will be excited if we can see the measurement results here.

  5. #105
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    I'll tell a little tuning story for you.

    A friend of mine bought a Commencal Super 4 and a Monarch RT3 shock for it.
    Well it turned out that the shock was horrible in that bike. So he bought a Fox Float RP23
    and had it Pushed. It worked well and he was happy. I told him that the Monarch can not be
    that bad, or at least it can be tuned to work much better than it had. He told me what he
    wanted to be changed in the shock; way less compression damping and more rebound damping.
    I made some changes and he tried them out. Compression damping was now better, but the
    shock blew too easily through its middle stroke. Rebound damping was better but clicker had
    to be too close to the minimum setting.

    So, what to do with the middle stroke dive. I came with an idea that I tried with my RP23 Boostvalve shock.
    Since there are shims in the compression side of things only in the LSC, which some in
    my opinion falsely have said to be only check valves, it was only place to tamper with them.
    I added an crossover there and it seemed to work.

    So it was my plan to try that with the Monarch also. I also fine tuned the rebound.
    And it worked. My friend was very pleased. He said that the Monarch was now very close
    in performance to the Pushed RP23.

    The compression tune was about the low tune of Rock Shox.
    And the low speed compression shims were:
    20 x 0,1
    13 x 0,1
    10 x 0,2
    18 x 0,15
    16 x 0,15

    I also made the same changes to a Nuke Proof Megas Monarch but that has only seen
    parking lot testing so far but it feels quite promising.

    Oh and the original tunes were M/M on the Super 4 and M/H3 on the Mega.

  6. #106
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    Wow, the DVO site is pretty informative on this topic. I actually have a customer's RC3+ in for some tuning right now. He has a Blur LT and the shock has the MM tune. The problem he is having is the rebound speed is too slow, even in the fastest setting. The service dept. is fairly slow right now, so I told him I would happily try to improve the performance.

    Even though most of you are working with the RT shock, I've found this thread to be super helpful. I actually have a small stash of shims at home, but for now I might just remove one to see how much of a difference it makes.

    I have a question for you guys who are doing this on a more regular basis.....are there any good books out there that I can learn from? I know it's a lot of trial and error if you don't have an engineering degree and a dyno, but those two things aren't gonna happen for me anytime soon, so I was hoping for a "working-man's" approach to this. Years ago, in my brief moto-mechanic career I found a lot of good reading on the moto side, but nothing purely on suspension.

    Thanks in advance

  7. #107
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    Second Moment of Area

    Yes, DVO is the best site to understand on shim stack technology.
    They don't show actual numbers on those shims right now but they will in the near future.
    Wait until they sell their shocks or study a little bit on "Second Moment of Area" might help you.

    If you could tell me the shim dimensions, like Inner Diameter and Outer Diameter on shims, someone could calculate the actual value of Second Moment of Area on each shims.

    I hope DVO makes smaller sized shocks...

  8. #108
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    Rebound needle may be stuck...

    Ok, so I just removed a shim from the rebound stack for a quick test and started to reassemble it. when bleeding the air out, the rebound is almost totally locked, and I can barely pull the shock to full extension. I saw that it was KTM520 I believe that had a rebound needle that was too long. Possibly mine is jammed now.

    Has anyone removed the needle on the Monarch RC3 Plus? I saw some were doing it on the RT model, but this appears to be pretty different.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by drummercat View Post
    btw, where can we order shims?
    More selection then MX-Tech: The moto side of Avalanche DH Racing
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  10. #110
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    Has anybody been able to measure the compressionshims on the 2013 monarch?

  11. #111
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    I was planning to remove a .1 shim out of my MM tune RT3 to improve small bump performance on the compression side. But then the shim stack has changed.

    Any info about different shim setup for M and L compression on the 2013 RT3?

    And how to improve the 2013 model?

  12. #112
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    I posted this on another thread but thought you would be interested as well.

    Shim ReStackor, Finally software to tune a shim stack

    These are the 2012 Monarch details. I don't think there was a change for '13 but don't quote me.

    l tune comp: LS valve - 22x.15, 22x.10, 22x.15
    m tune comp: LS valve - 22x.20 then 4 22x.10
    m tune reb: 15x.10 then 14x.20

    mk

  13. #113
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    I have a 2013 RT3 also and many things have changed on it compare to the 2012 one, not only the shim but even the casing.I have a 2013 RT3 also and many things have changed on it compare to the 2012 one, not only the shim but even the casing.

  14. #114
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    Anyone knows the different between a M / L compression tune on a 2013 RT3?

    Or has experience with tuning the 2013 RT3 shim stack?

    I am looking for better small bump performance / more plush ride. I have lowered the IFP pressure according to this great thread.

  15. #115
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    Why don't you try Crossover Stack?

  16. #116
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    UPDATE to my problem of slow rebound and air-oil mix noise on my RC3 Plus: I FOUND THE PROBLEM !!! It's the IFP (internal floating piston) reservoir that was not presurize at the recommanded 250PSI. Go to the RockShox site to dowload the maintenance manual. You will need a schrader removal tool and a air adaptator to inflate the IFP reservoir. Now no more noise and a really faster rebound !!!
    It's not the RT3 but the +RC3 but anyway has I had already complained in this thread I thought I should let you know.
    On my RT3 no problem from now but there is also an IFP, not in a piggyback indeed but in the main core.
    Laurent

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by cesper View Post
    Wow, the DVO site is pretty informative on this topic. I actually have a customer's RC3+ in for some tuning right now. He has a Blur LT and the shock has the MM tune. The problem he is having is the rebound speed is too slow, even in the fastest setting. The service dept. is fairly slow right now, so I told him I would happily try to improve the performance.

    Even though most of you are working with the RT shock, I've found this thread to be super helpful. I actually have a small stash of shims at home, but for now I might just remove one to see how much of a difference it makes.

    I have a question for you guys who are doing this on a more regular basis.....are there any good books out there that I can learn from? I know it's a lot of trial and error if you don't have an engineering degree and a dyno, but those two things aren't gonna happen for me anytime soon, so I was hoping for a "working-man's" approach to this. Years ago, in my brief moto-mechanic career I found a lot of good reading on the moto side, but nothing purely on suspension.

    Thanks in advance
    This book is excellent - Suspension Bible

  18. #118
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    Hi,

    I have a Monarch RT3 2014 shock with M/M default tune. But I need more end progression.

    Has one of you guys tuned the Monarch with a L3, M3 or H3 tune and can explain the difference to the standard L, M and H tunes?

    Thanks and regards
    mat

  19. #119
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    Hi,

    Rockshox says that "L, M,and H are platform tunes, while L3, M3, and H3 are progressive compression tunes" in their Compression Tune Reference Chart.

    So if you need platform tunes, tune your Monarch into M3 tune.
    But now, you want more end progression, so tune your IFP pressure.
    You can get the adaptor sold by RS then increase the pressure.

    I've tuned my monarch's IFP from 110[PSI] to 200[PSI].
    Now it feels good while riding, especially in doing manual.

  20. #120
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    I think it's regarding a kit with which you could reduce the air volume of the HV (High Volume) canister: less air volume, more end progression. I have bought this kit on ebay but I'm not at home so can't give you the reference. You will find it on the sram.com site in the exploded view of the RT3 2013 with parts number.
    I didn't use mine for now because on my Tallboy LTC with standard M/M I won't reach the bottom out with a 30% sag. It really depends of the bike cinematic
    Have a good ride in Switzerland
    Laurent

  21. #121
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    L3, M3 and H3 tunes use pyramidal shimstack
    L, M, and H uses shims of the same diameter

    BTW: as far as I know, the X3 tunes are not "platform". Regular tunes are more "platform"

    Each is good for something, and bad in something else. A good experts can give a good advice, but it starts to be a little complicated.
    You can tune spring progressiveness by adding a spacer to air canister, but it has nothing to do with damping tune.

  22. #122
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    Didn't know that, thanks for the explanation !!!

  23. #123
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    Good job! Made the mod on the 2013 shim stack

    edit
    Last edited by guildur; 08-11-2013 at 01:02 PM. Reason: double post

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by BOA View Post
    Anyone knows the different between a M / L compression tune on a 2013 RT3?

    Or has experience with tuning the 2013 RT3 shim stack?

    I am looking for better small bump performance / more plush ride. I have lowered the IFP pressure according to this great thread.
    So, I got a Monarch RT3 shock with MM tune 2 weeks ago, to replace the Manitou Radium RL I had until now, and which seriously lacked of a platform mode.

    I ride a MSC Koncept frame, with 80mm of rear travel, hence a 2,1 ratio.

    Of course, just like most of the guys here, I needed a ML tune, but these are impossible to find here in France at a decent price. Since I found this great thread (thanks a lot for all the infos), I thought I'd try to modify it by myself.

    I first mounted the shock on the bike when it was still a MM tune, and right from the parking lot, with a 25% sag, I knew it wasn't the right tune at all. Very stiff. I increased the sag to 30%, and had about a 50 miles with the shock. No change.

    The rebound was fine, but shock was very stiff (despite I was using all the travel) and seriously lacked of small bumps compliance, and I had almost no "traction" when going over roots of chattery rocks in platform mode. Also, I couldn't feel any real world difference between between platform and locked.

    So I bought all the tools and went for the mod, instead of buying a new tune assembly from ebay. My shock is a 2013 model with the new shim stack.
    I noticed ruirocha had removed 2 of the 4 big compression shims of the prevous models' tune assemblies to get a low tune. Since these 4 big compression shims were here again on the 2013 shims stack, I thought they'd be once again what differentiate a low tune from a mid tune.
    So I removed them...
    Also, since my frame has a small ratio even for a low tune shock (and since that's what I had on hand), I refilled the shock whith 5w Ipone fork oil (cst @40 = 18) instead of the 7wt RS recommends.


    I don't know for sure if this is the way RS lowers the tune, but it seems to work!

    I know have:
    - a sensitive shock when opened
    - a still very present platform. The big difference is that traction is now very good, and comfort very descent. That it only eliminates pedal bob (even on short burst or when standing on the pedals), and still filters the LSC medium bumps.
    - However, I'd like to be able to stiffen up the locked mode a bit, even though it doesn't seem to bob, or maybe 2-3mm when sprinting standing of the pedals.

    I attached a picture of the mod, so those who want to get a lower tune can give it a try.
    I removed the 2 shims on the right of the arrows.


    1) I'm now planning to try 3w and 7w for oil to see if it makes any change.
    2) I'll try another IFP pressure, to see if I can get the shock better again, and use a little more travel.

    3) Also, does anyone have a clue about what/which part locks the shock? How I could make the full locked mode stiffer. I had a lockout on the Radium RL that was "hardtail-stiff", and I'd like to achieve the same thing

  25. #125
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    I bought a 2012 RT3 with a MM3 tune. I want something like a LL tune (maybe even lighter since I only weight 150lbs) so my plan is to remove the first two compression shims like ruirocha did. I'll be using Redline 5wt which is marginally thinner than the SRAM 5wt.

    I also want a lighter rebound tune. Has anyone played with the rebound to make it lighter? I saw one post where someone recommended swapping the 14x.2 and replacing with with a 10x.2. Any advantage to this as opposed to replacing it with a 14x.15 or 14x.1?

    The shock is going on a Blur LT if it makes a difference. I know VPP likes fast rebound and low compression.
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  26. #126
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    Sorry, I have no experience with MM3 but tunned a MM 2013 shock.
    What I can say is the 2013 shim stack is different from the previous years' versions. You can look at my post above to get an idea about how I "guessed" which shim to remove on a MM 2013 RT3.

    About the oil weight, my personal experience is a lighter weight gives you a slightly more linear shock.
    I did change my oil for 5wt and reduced the IFP chamber volume, but because my frame design is FSR-like, and was too progressive for the shock.
    You might not want to change any of that unless you wouldn't use all your travel?

    Also, I suggest you try to modify the settings one by one. Just change the oil first, ride the shock to feel the change (might not be noticeable if the difference in the oil's CST numbers is less that 2 points), then change the compression stack, ride the shock again, etc. This way you get to feel each change you made one by one.

    I'm no expert but I wouldn't bother trying shims of different sizes, at least before having tried to simply remove some of the big compression shims.

    Maybe you can post a pic of your shim stack?

    Good luck tuning your shock, I worth the hassle a 100 times!

  27. #127
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    Couple of weeks ago I bought 2013 monarch rt3 with ML tune and high volume air can. I added more spacers in air sleeve and currently air sleeve is full of spacers, but still I'm not satisfied how the shock handles bigger bumps. If I set sag anywhere near 25%, in small bumps bike feels like hardtail, but still in bigger bumps bike bottoms out quite easily. If I set sag around 35-40%, I like how the bike handles in small bumps, but clearly this isn't appropriate because it will bottom out in almost every bump.

    It's obvious that compression stack needs smaller/looser shims in low speed compression, but in mid and high speeds some bigger/stiffer shims are needed. How critical the shim stack height is? Is it okay to add 2-3 shims to overall shim stack height, or should I pay closer attention in stack height? My plan is to tune low speed compression at first, and move gradually to the mid and high speed compressions, in my view that's the best way to get familiar with shim stack changes. This is my first time trying to shim any damper, so any advices are appreciated.

  28. #128
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    Sounds like you need a different air can. Either that or H compression tune. What's the leverage ratio on the bike?

    mk
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  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbildr View Post
    Sounds like you need a different air can. Either that or H compression tune. What's the leverage ratio on the bike?

    mk
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but high volume air can with air sleeve full of spacers has the same air volume than normal air can. Yesterday I went for a ride and spent some time trying out different air pressures and found out that using the lockout in pedal position, helps quite a bit with bottom out issues in low speed comprenssion situations, so my next step is to try out stiffer compression tune. Bikes leverage ratio is 2,8.

  30. #130
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    Yup. High volume with volume reduction equals standard can.

    Yeah, I run my Monarch Plus is the middle compression setting 95% of the time. If it gets steep, I'll open it up so I can squat the rear end a bit for more traction.

    mk
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  31. #131
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    HELP! I began to rebuild my 2011 RT3 and I accidently dropped the main piston assembly. Splat! I think I have all the pieces. I have searched on line for hours and I can't find a complete exploded view of al the shims and pieced. I don't know what "tune" I had but I just want to get it back together. All the pics on the thread are nice but I don't see the complete assembly. Even the Rock Shox manuals don't show.
    Anybody?

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultimate99 View Post
    HELP! I began to rebuild my 2011 RT3 and I accidently dropped the main piston assembly. Splat! I think I have all the pieces. I have searched on line for hours and I can't find a complete exploded view of al the shims and pieced. I don't know what "tune" I had but I just want to get it back together. All the pics on the thread are nice but I don't see the complete assembly. Even the Rock Shox manuals don't show.
    Anybody?
    Well, for obvious reasons, you first need to figure out what's your tune. If your shock has never been customized, you can figure it out by looking for a sticker with two letters, one blue, one red, on the outside of the air can.
    Looks like this:

    This will give you the shock's original tune. Otherwise, you might guess it from your frame's suspension ratio.

    So what's your tune?

  33. #133
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    I found it guilder; "HM", I assume this means medium?
    Here's a pic of all the pieces (I hope) in no particular order. I printed the parts sheet but it is different. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. BTW this is on a carbon Santa Cruze Tall Boy 29er with 2nd gen VPP and I am 210 lb and ride a lot of rocks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rockshox Monarch RT3 Shim Stack-img_3062.jpg  


  34. #134
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    Hi, the red is rebound setting and the blue is compression. What I don't know is what's the difference between compression with or without the number 3. Let say what's the difference between a M/L shock and a M/L3 shock ? If someone could explain it to me it will make me "the guy who knows things" at my mountain biker club !
    Laurent

  35. #135
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    Hi,
    For H compression tune the shimstack is (here is only the thickness of shims, as they are all 22mm diameter in H/M/L tune)
    0.10
    0.10
    0.10
    0.20
    0.20
    ---Piston--- and Medium rebound tune continues
    0.10
    0.20
    0.15
    0.15
    0.15
    0.10

    then 4pc of small spacers (0.2 x 8mm)

    On floodgate piston are these shims (EDIT: shim diameters added)
    0.10 x 20mm
    0.10 x 13mm
    0.20 x 10mm (spacer)
    0.25 x 10mm (spacer)


    Difference between L/M/H and L3/M3/H3 is that the X3 tune has pyramidal shimstack (less low speed compression) = diameter of shims is decreasing. Regular tunes have all shims of same diameter, has more low speed compression.

  36. #136
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    Thanks a lot for these precious elements !!!
    Laurent

  37. #137
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    RoboS thanks for this great info.
    Being a newbee, I am still pretty confused.
    I count 19 washer type shims here and that's what I have also, great.
    I assume the first shims in your list get placed onto the rod first in that order
    0.10
    0.10
    0.10
    0.20
    0.20 ......
    The missing info for me now is where the other three components go.
    The blue main piston, the large tri ported thing and the small tri ported thing.
    What order within the shims and which way goes onto the rod first?
    sorry for being a bit thick about this.

  38. #138
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    Maybe I'm wrong, but as long as the shim diameter is the same in shimstack, it doesn't matter in what order they are stacked. They act as one shim (much thicker one)

    Best pictures that I found are these
    Rock Shox Monarch RT3/RC3 Plus Hauptkolben mit Shimstack Tune A Main Piston low | eBay

    Here are pictures of my piston, note that I have H3 tune, so pyramidal shimstack is visible there
    Rockshox Monarch RT3 Shim Stack-20130723_183902.jpgRockshox Monarch RT3 Shim Stack-20130723_183914.jpg

    And on this german forum is very detailed info
    RockShox Monarch RT3 im Detail - MTB-News.de - IBC

    Good luck

  39. #139
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    pretty nice pic there RoboS
    I'm sure you are correct about the shims being reversible. I can't tell the actual parts order and direction form this though.

    So I called SRam today and they guy said "I don't have any documentation on the shim stack / main piston. It's like an iPhone , very complex."
    He offered to get me a new assembly if I have a dealer call and ask for me. ...geeezzz...
    My question was about the 3) special pieces.
    "The blue main piston, the large tri ported thing and the small tri ported thing.
    What order within the shims and which way they go onto the rod first?"
    Seems very simple to me if you have the exploded diagram or photo. But it this appears to be non existent.

  40. #140
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    Hey Ultimate99, the new damper piston (2013 and later) is complex, but older ones are very very simple. Just put the sims on the shaft in this order
    0.25 x 10mm
    0.20 x 10mm
    0.10 x 13mm
    0.10 x 20mm
    --- Floodgate piston ---
    0.10 x 22mm
    0.10 x 22mm
    0.10 x 22mm
    0.20 x 22mm
    0.20 x 22mm
    --- Main pistoin ---
    0.10 x 15mm
    0.20 x 14mm
    0.15 x 8mm
    0.15 x 8mm
    0.15 x 8mm
    0.10 x 15mm
    0.20 x 8mm
    0.20 x 8mm
    0.20 x 8mm
    0.20 x 8mm
    --- Piston holding nut ---


    I found out thet I was not very accurate in my previous post. The rebound side of piston has tapered shimstack (pyramidal), so here it is corrected.

    If its not gonna work, then buy new piston assembly, there is everything you need in correct order. It just costs about 40-50€

  41. #141
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    Perfect I get the shims and their order. Looks simple.
    Now I have to figure out the direction and placment of the other 3 parts.
    like what is a flood gate and how does IT go together?
    and how does the main piston go on?

    0.25 x 10mm
    0.20 x 10mm
    0.10 x 13mm
    0.10 x 20mm
    --- Floodgate piston ---
    0.10 x 22mm
    0.10 x 22mm
    0.10 x 22mm
    0.20 x 22mm
    0.20 x 22mm
    --- Main pistoin ---
    0.10 x 15mm
    0.20 x 14mm
    0.15 x 8mm
    0.15 x 8mm
    0.15 x 8mm
    0.10 x 15mm
    0.20 x 8mm
    0.20 x 8mm
    0.20 x 8mm
    0.20 x 8mm
    --- Piston holding nut ---
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  42. #142
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    You can see orientation of main piston on one of my pistures. But I really don't know how the "tri plates" are stacked.

  43. #143
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    Does anyone here know if a 2013 RT3 tune assembly will fit a 2012 RT3?. Thanks to everyone that has posted on this thread. I have a ML now but need less low speed compression. That ML3 piston looks like the one for me.

  44. #144
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    Yeah, I heard that 2013 tunes are much better (and more complex), than the older ones. I'd like to use them too in my 2012 monarch.

  45. #145
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    Guess I'll call SRAM and see what they say. Just need less low speed compression. Might just buy the 2013 piston and see how the shims compare. Rather not get into changing shims but.........

  46. #146
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    Yes please let us know. If the newer (2013) pistons are superior then I wouldn't mind spending more money to finally finish my rebuild and have an improved shock.

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by mt.nebo.mtb View Post
    Does anyone here know if a 2013 RT3 tune assembly will fit a 2012 RT3?. Thanks to everyone that has posted on this thread. I have a ML now but need less low speed compression. That ML3 piston looks like the one for me. Guess I'll call SRAM and see what they say. Just need less low speed compression. Might just buy the 2013 piston and see how the shims compare. Rather not get into changing shims but.........
    Any news mt.nebo ?????? I have a 2011 RT3 and want to install a 2013 piston set.

  48. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoboS View Post
    You can see orientation of main piston on one of my pistures. But I really don't know how the "tri plates" are stacked.
    The larger check plate (tri plates, floodgate piston) goes on the comp side and faces away from the piston and the smaller goes on the reb side facing towards the piston. Look at the pictures in post #1. Your shock should match that along with the shim stack spec's in post #5 for your tune. Insert the reb check plate between the 15x0.1 and the 8x0.2 shims, with the 15 cover the face of the plate. The comp check plate goes where you have labeled "floodgate piston", with the 20 shim cover the face of the plate. As the name suggests, these check plates simply minimize cross-flow through the free bleed.

    Quote Originally Posted by RoboS View Post
    Yeah, I heard that 2013 tunes are much better (and more complex), than the older ones. I'd like to use them too in my 2012 monarch.
    From the pictures I've seen, I don't think the '13 piston will work in a '12 schock. It looks like the id of the piston is larger. I don't know if the '13 piston is dished, but they do use ring shims to preload both the comp and reb stacks. I've never tried to source ring shims, but I'm guessing they aren't easy to get nor cheap. The concept of preloading the reb stack is intriguing. I believe this is what RS refers to as "rapid recovery". Gives a more digressive reb damping curve.

  49. #149
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    I ordered a '13 piston. We'll see what happens next week when it arrives.

  50. #150
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    I don't think the '13 piston is "better" than the <2013 version. I assume that the older pistons had a dished surface, causing the shims to be preloaded a fixed amount.
    But I imagine some manufacturers would like a different preload value, so they probably replaced the dished-piston approach to implementation of a "ring-shim" which is a very good way of varying the amount of preload.
    I used a similar method when I installed a shim stack in my marzocchi 55 TST2. Place the ring closer to the piston to increase preload... or further to decrease.

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