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  1. #1
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    Rockshox Lyrik Mission Control DH

    Hi,
    I have a 2010 Lyrik R 160mm and upgraded the internals to Mission Control DH and Dual Flow Rebound. My questions are (just to make sure I didn't miss any steps):

    1. Swapping the old rebound with the new dual flow rebound is fairly easy no? What I did is: Un-circlip the old rebound, pull it off and put in the new dual flow rebound.

    2. How many clicks are there in the new rebound? I think I have somewhere around 26 clicks Is this right? When I check the MiCo tune manual by RockShox, I am under the impression that there is a maximum of 18 clicks. And if I'm not mistaken, even my old "normal" rebound has 18 clicks.

    3. Is the dual flow rebound a bit longer than the old one?

    4. It's an easy upgrade for the damper, right? Just open the red rebound cap, pour in 187ml of 5wt fork oil and slide in the MiCo DH damper.

    Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by Cyphereza; 02-05-2013 at 03:22 AM.

  2. #2
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    I never counted the clicks on mine, But I am sure its fine with 26. You did everything correct. The Dual Flow rebound is a little longer for use in 170mm Lyriks.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mullen119 View Post
    I never counted the clicks on mine, But I am sure its fine with 26. You did everything correct. The Dual Flow rebound is a little longer for use in 170mm Lyriks.
    Aahhh... thanks a lot. Its surely a relief to know that I've done it properly. The rebound feeling from full hare and full turtle is significant (So, there shouldn't be a prob with my rebound).

    Still having problem figuring out my HSC/LSC settings
    My guess LSC is for big drops/jumping to a flat and HSC is for fast rocky terrain no?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyphereza View Post
    Aahhh... thanks a lot. Its surely a relief to know that I've done it properly. The rebound feeling from full hare and full turtle is significant (So, there shouldn't be a prob with my rebound).

    Still having problem figuring out my HSC/LSC settings
    My guess LSC is for big drops/jumping to a flat and HSC is for fast rocky terrain no?
    HSC is for firming to softening the overall travel for everything. LSC controls very small bump smoothness, and weight shift slow wallow, such as pedaling bob and traction feel. Adjusting LSC firmer (slower) or softer (faster) also firms or softens HSC effects some small amount, while adjusting HSC firmer or softer for overall travel make little if any difference to the LSC adjustment for small bump effects.

    I've heard a pro expert custom suspension tuner simply say this: HSC is for firmness, LSC is for handling.

    The "Speed" In High or Low Speed Compression, or Rebound when there are separated external adjusters, refers to the relative shock or fork's shaft speed and internal damper fluid flow speed, not the speed of the bike.

    Give it time. It will take many trials and effort to get a feel for the changes the adjusters do. It is often recommended to start with setting sag to about 20% to 25% when standing on the pedals, and every external adjuster set in the middle of it's range. Then change one adjuster at a time one click, beginning with rebound, then HSC, finally LSC one adjuster at a time, and ride. If on click firmer or softer brings better bike control while riding, adjust that same adjuster further until worse control and go back to the best control for that adjuster. Then do the next adjuster. After all adjusters are checked, do the adjuster tuning process cycle again, and again, and again... to fine tune.

    Every rider has a personal feel for what works best in adjustments. What some expert likes may feel terrible to another expert with the same ride weight, bike, and suspension.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by derby View Post
    HSC is for firming to softening the overall travel for everything. LSC controls very small bump smoothness, and weight shift slow wallow, such as pedaling bob and traction feel. Adjusting LSC firmer (slower) or softer (faster) also firms or softens HSC effects some small amount, while adjusting HSC firmer or softer for overall travel make little if any difference to the LSC adjustment for small bump effects.

    I've heard a pro expert custom suspension tuner simply say this: HSC is for firmness, LSC is for handling.

    The "Speed" In High or Low Speed Compression, or Rebound when there are separated external adjusters, refers to the relative shock or fork's shaft speed and internal damper fluid flow speed, not the speed of the bike.

    Give it time. It will take many trials and effort to get a feel for the changes the adjusters do. It is often recommended to start with setting sag to about 20% to 25% when standing on the pedals, and every external adjuster set in the middle of it's range. Then change one adjuster at a time one click, beginning with rebound, then HSC, finally LSC one adjuster at a time, and ride. If on click firmer or softer brings better bike control while riding, adjust that same adjuster further until worse control and go back to the best control for that adjuster. Then do the next adjuster. After all adjusters are checked, do the adjuster tuning process cycle again, and again, and again... to fine tune.

    Every rider has a personal feel for what works best in adjustments. What some expert likes may feel terrible to another expert with the same ride weight, bike, and suspension.
    Yeah, getting the best HSC and LSC is a tedious job.

    Is there a minimum psi for the Lyrik? I don't want to damage the internals and want the fork to work properly.
    I'm quite light fully geared. Around 57kg. Currently 35psi in the fork.

  6. #6
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    I set a lot of people up with Lyrik forks like this: sag about 35%, a few click off of max low-speed compression, no high-speed compression, 6 clicks from jackalope for rebound.

    That gives you a solid take-off and pedaling platform and makes it efficient for pedaling. During a ride, you can start playing with less LSC and more HSC. LSC is for low shaft speed stuff (pedaling, jump takes-offs, berms) and HSC is for fast shaft speeds like landings to flat, big hits and rocky stuff.

    mk

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbildr View Post
    I set a lot of people up with Lyrik forks like this: sag about 35%, a few click off of max low-speed compression, no high-speed compression, 6 clicks from jackalope for rebound.

    That gives you a solid take-off and pedaling platform and makes it efficient for pedaling. During a ride, you can start playing with less LSC and more HSC. LSC is for low shaft speed stuff (pedaling, jump takes-offs, berms) and HSC is for fast shaft speeds like landings to flat, big hits and rocky stuff.

    mk
    Thanks for the tips.

    Anyone know if the 6ml of 15wt in the air chamber side is necessary? In 2010 manual (since my fork is originally a 2010 Lyrik R but with a 2012 MiCo DH Damper), it says to pour in 6ml of 15wt. But in recent 2012 and 2013 manual, there is no oil in the air chamber. I'm trying to resolve small bump sensitivity. Which oil chart should I follow? 2010? 2012?

  8. #8
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    My rebound had about 25 clicks (also the dual flow) and for your year you will need 193ml in the damper, not 187.
    Edit: for your above post, the 6ml in the air chamber is a must. Follow the 2010 chart
    Bikes:
    2010 Spec Enduro comp.
    2013 Specialized Demo 8 (build)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRY2KPUP View Post
    My rebound had about 25 clicks (also the dual flow) and for your year you will need 193ml in the damper, not 187.
    Thanks for the rebound confirm
    The year is according to the fork or damper?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyphereza View Post
    Thanks for the rebound confirm
    The year is according to the fork or damper?
    the dampers have changed very little in the last couple of years. But I would say run the 193 that they used in 2010/11. Double check that you get full compression without air in the fork. If it stops before its fully compressed, use the 184ml, from the 2012 chart. As for the solo air spring, that is all still 2010 so use the 2010 chart.
    Bikes:
    2010 Spec Enduro comp.
    2013 Specialized Demo 8 (build)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRY2KPUP View Post
    the dampers have changed very little in the last couple of years. But I would say run the 193 that they used in 2010/11. Double check that you get full compression without air in the fork. If it stops before its fully compressed, use the 184ml, from the 2012 chart. As for the solo air spring, that is all still 2010 so use the 2010 chart.
    Aahhh... Thanks. Will try it out. I'll update here later. Thanks!

  12. #12
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    It is not uncommon to get a new fork, open it up and use nicer-than-original fluids and lubes inside fork.

    Also, try turning the bike upside down, count to 20 then cycle the fork a few times. That will get the lube up onto the foam rings and should make it feel better right away.

    mk

  13. #13
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    don't suppose any of you guys would know what volume of oil to put into the 2009 lyriks ?? there solo air and the manual says 112ml, ive already did the mission control conversion with the 170dh rebound, ive put in the said 193ml, but when things get choppy they seem to ramp up and go stiff/rigid ? any help would be grateful

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by tracer75 View Post
    don't suppose any of you guys would know what volume of oil to put into the 2009 lyriks ?? there solo air and the manual says 112ml, ive already did the mission control conversion with the 170dh rebound, ive put in the said 193ml, but when things get choppy they seem to ramp up and go stiff/rigid ? any help would be grateful
    I believe its 187ml

  15. #15
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    ta much.... ill give this a try

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mullen119 View Post
    I believe its 187ml
    If you keep it at 160mm then it is 187; for 170mm it is 193. Doesn't seem like the extra 6ml would make much of a diff but it was very noticeable to me!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  17. #17
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    I had bottoming problems with my lyrik coil. To solve them, I run my oil level at 197ml to get some extra progression. Still get full travel, but it ramps up nicely at the end of the stroke. Running lower was causing harsh bottom outs on big drops, even when running the medium spring at my light weight of 150lbs. The damper is sensitive to oil height, but it has room for some adjustment. (sram says 3ml either way from the listed oil heights)

    My understanding from Sram is that the stock oil heights are 187mm + or - 3ml for 09' and previous forks that have been upgraded to the new style damper and 193ml + or - 3ml for the 2010+ versions. Not sure why there is a difference(never bothered to ask) This is why people get confused. No stock Lyrik is list as 187ml, so unless you ask, you wont know.

  18. #18
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    The difference accounts for the extra 10mm of travel for the 2010+ versions which use a longer shaft on the spring side than the '09 and previous which were 160mm max travel.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    The difference accounts for the extra 10mm of travel for the 2010+ versions which use a longer shaft on the spring side than the '09 and previous which were 160mm max travel.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    The confusing part is 2010+ 160mm lyriks(u-turn, 2 step, lowered SA) still use 193ml.

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