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  1. #1
    namagomi
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    Reviving 98 Judy SL

    The wear marks on these stantion tubes, dangerous? I'm guessin' it's from grit sanding off where the wipers sat... the rubbed areas are quite smooth. Is that normal?



    Also, the damper rod is corroded, but it didn't seem to affect the catridge fluid as all was inside (slightly tainted with rust). Possible problem with that?


  2. #2
    Ambivalent Luddite
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    Neither of those are problems. Just turn the stanchion tube 90 degrees (worn section to the side). You can check the classifieds/ebay/craigslist or http://claz.org/ for parts. I just bought a '96 Judy SL with White Bros cartridge for $100.
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  3. #3
    namagomi
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Dude
    Neither of those are problems. Just turn the stanchion tube 90 degrees (worn section to the side). You can check the classifieds/ebay/craigslist or http://claz.org/ for parts. I just bought a '96 Judy SL with White Bros cartridge for $100.
    The stanchion tubes are pressed in on this design, so no rotation is possible.

  4. #4
    All 26.5" all the time!
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    Sad to say, but that fork has been destroyed due to lack of maintenance.

  5. #5
    namagomi
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zanetti
    Sad to say, but that fork has been destroyed due to lack of maintenance.
    Destroyed? Well, the fork worked reasonably well and keep in mind it is 12yrs old... i just wanted to revive it because it's such a light fork and the damage.

    Having trouble to reconcile both opinions, do you think putting some new oil in the cartridge and getting some new wipers is too much? The bushing play didn't seem bad.

  6. #6
    All 26.5" all the time!
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    Once the hard anno is worn away from the upper tubes, friction increases and wear accelerates. I'd bet the garlock material on the upper bushings is mostly worn away as well.

    Even with new seals and fresh oil, the fork will never work better than it did just before you disassembled it.

  7. #7
    namagomi
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zanetti
    Once the hard anno is worn away from the upper tubes, friction increases and wear accelerates. I'd bet the garlock material on the upper bushings is mostly worn away as well.

    Even with new seals and fresh oil, the fork will never work better than it did just before you disassembled it.
    Thanks, maybe i'll try another judy(96 or 97 i think) i have sitting around and see how it is worn. This was going to be for a commuter, so the cost is already ~50 for parts and shipping and if it wears out in a year when i could get a rigid fork for $60... well that wouldn't be so great.

  8. #8
    namagomi
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    So, i figured i would rebuild it anyways... for a commuter fork.

    However, i can't refill the rebound cartridge properly(i think).. there is a small port on the damper rod one must put 5wt oil, yet i am not sure if i am filling it properly as rebound dampening really is almost non-existant...

    The technique in the manual requires you to insert a syringe on the port on the top of the damper rod and cycle the damper up and down forcing fluid in... Yet when i do this after a certain point the fork oil seems to expand and come out(there are tiny bubbles which come back up the damper-rod with the fluid. I would guess this is "full:" but the damping is not strong enough. Could something be broken inside the cartridge? It's action is smooth, but the dampening never was that great iirc.

    Any ideas?

  9. #9
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    Zanetti is correct, the fork is destroyed with that damage.

    Once the anodization is worn through and the much softer aluminum substrate is exposed, the rate of wear increases greatly. Considering your stanchions are roughly 1.5mm thick, it doesn't take losing a lot of wall thickness before you risk the stanchion breaking. Obviously, it's quite painful to the rider having a stanchion break.

    Your damper will never work properly with the rod pitted like that, since the o-rings can't seal properly against it. Sorry, but the fork is junk, and trying to use is asking for trouble. Either try and get your money back, or write off the $50 as a lesson learned.

  10. #10
    namagomi
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    Zanetti is correct, the fork is destroyed with that damage.

    Once the anodization is worn through and the much softer aluminum substrate is exposed, the rate of wear increases greatly. Considering your stanchions are roughly 1.5mm thick, it doesn't take losing a lot of wall thickness before you risk the stanchion breaking. Obviously, it's quite painful to the rider having a stanchion break.

    Your damper will never work properly with the rod pitted like that, since the o-rings can't seal properly against it. Sorry, but the fork is junk, and trying to use is asking for trouble. Either try and get your money back, or write off the $50 as a lesson learned.
    Well, thanks. I guess it's just too far gone... I didn't pay anything for it, was just trying to save it from the trash heap.

  11. #11
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    You may be able to sell the lowers for a couple bucks...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Dude
    Neither of those are problems. Just turn the stanchion tube 90 degrees (worn section to the side). You can check the classifieds/ebay/craigslist or http://claz.org/ for parts. I just bought a '96 Judy SL with White Bros cartridge for $100.
    Are those the ones I sold you? How did they work out for you?

    Bryan

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