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  1. #201
    103
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Nice work 103! Where did you get the strip if aluminum? I also realized one could use a star (more permanent) or compression nut (from a headset) to use as a plug for the bottom cable routing/ stop. Is that just standard surgical tubing? I tried some anklet rubber tubing when we were playing with different options, but it would bind and catch on the cable... Looks like the regular sized stuff would've done the trick. Bet you can get it in black .
    Got all the supplies from Ace Hardware and Pep Boys. I had to go with the rubber expansion plug since my headset is tapered. I don't think anyone makes a star nut big enough for the bottom of the steerer tube with is 1 3/8". Gonna test this setup for a month. If it works without any problems, I'll re-do the bracket to make it look cleaner, use blue surgical tubing and a anodized blue ferrell cap.

  2. #202
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    1.5 star nut

    Quote Originally Posted by 103 View Post
    Got all the supplies from Ace Hardware and Pep Boys. I had to go with the rubber expansion plug since my headset is tapered. I don't think anyone makes a star nut big enough for the bottom of the steerer tube with is 1 3/8". Gonna test this setup for a month. If it works without any problems, I'll re-do the bracket to make it look cleaner, use blue surgical tubing and a anodized blue ferrell cap.
    FWIW- they do make 1.5 star nuts. I also have a tapered steerer RLC and am going to try to mimic what you did for the housing, but with the retention ring and internal spring setup... I'll post when I get around to it.

  3. #203
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    positioning of lockout lever

    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Good job 103!.

    Just a few follow up notes. I drilled the first lever on the shock and I did my RLC yesterday and decided to drill it off the shock. One of those little ball bearings fell out and I spent 30 minutes looking for it. If you take the blue lever off, be very careful not to lose any of the bearings. Also, if you do take it off, I used a small dab of grease to hold the bearings in place and when I reattached it, it seemed to be silky smooth.

    Also, I think I forgot to mention both of my blue levers are rotated one position in a clockwise direction from stock. In other words, my lever closes at the 7:00 o'clock position looking down from the bike. If you notice 103's pictures, that is the stock closing position 5:00 o'clock. This works without binding from the front position I am coming from. 103 solved the problem by coming from the rear. His solution is tidier looking but does require minimal fabrication.

    Also, the pop-locks that alshead sold me were one left and one right. I have now used both of them and can verify that either position works with the stock cables on my medium Niners. Taller riders might need to have slightly longer cables in order not the have a lot bend. The one on the RLC has a slightly shorter, stronger spring and it is perfect. The original one on the RL works great, I am just saying there is a difference of springs and if yours is not working to your satisfaction, you might try a different spring. The one I likes was aprox. 1.5" long .2" diam. and fairly strong.
    FWIW, the lockout levers can be moved, but they're not always going to be in the same position- the lockout is relative to how the entire damper assembly threaded in to your fork- This was part of the problem we encountered when trying our setup last winter- if you use an external spring, it was always going to be slightly different for different setups- great if you're doing it yourself, but not great if you're trying to sell a solution. Even when new forks come from the factory, they're at different places- one might be at 6 o'clock, one at 6:10, one at 5:45.... 7...

    And, yes, I think I mentioned the same tips about the little ball bearings a while back- those things are impossible to find

  4. #204
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    Alshead, I thought that might be the case since the position of my RL and RLC are different. So between any 2 forks there could be as much as 60 degrees of difference as to where the furthest clockwise the lock position will occur. Still I recommend the furthest possible clockwise position for using my method. I guess I just got lucky on the ball bearing find. They never came out when I took my RL apart and I kinda thought they might be slightly pressed in. As soon as I took my RLC apart, one popped out.

  5. #205
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    ^ I suppose it's less than 60 degrees since you can move the topcap/ lever- it sits on a hex piece, so you can adjust every 45 deg. Either way, it's part of why the retaining ring (and whatever Deef came up with, which I still don't totally understand) are great solutions, because you can adjust where the spring is anchored in rotation. I just picked up the aluminum, some snips and some surgical tubing at ACE and the compression/ expander from PepBoys- same parking lot. I have a 1.5 star nut on order from my LBS that I'll use when it comes in instead of the expander- has to be quite a bit lighter and maybe a little more secure... I'll update when I've set it up.

  6. #206
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    Wouldn't it be 60 degrees? 360 divided by 6. There are 360 degrees of rotation of the hex head and you can adjust in 60 degree increments. So if you rotated the hex anything less than 60 let's say 59 degrees there would still be no way to achieve the same position, but if you rotated it 60 degrees one movement on the hex would put you at the same place.

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Wouldn't it be 60 degrees? 360 divided by 6. There are 360 degrees of rotation of the hex head and you can adjust in 60 degree increments. So if you rotated the hex anything less than 60 let's say 59 degrees there would still be no way to achieve the same position, but if you rotated it 60 degrees one movement on the hex would put you at the same place.

    My bad. I think it's actually an octagonal piece. So 45 deg increments.
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  8. #208
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    Alshead, you picture in post 193 shows 6 sides.

  9. #209
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    I think that picture is a tough angle/ bad light. Check out Deef's parts in 191. 8 sides .

  10. #210
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    You are right! And under my magnifier, I can see 8 on your picture too. Guess I am going to have to think about glasses.

  11. #211
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    My RLC lever position isn't like yours 103...Is there a way to move the cartrage to position the lever to lock/unlock where you want it to?

  12. #212
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    That is what alshead and I have been discussing. You can get in a 45 degree range. Use a number 2 hex to take the top bolt out while holding the adjustment knob still. Then lift up the knob and the hex screw. You will see 3 set screws that take a number 1 hex. Loosen each one only about a turn and a half. Until you can easily lift the blue lever up. There are 3 ball bearings on the bottom **be very careful not to lose them and if they fall out dab a little grease in the hole to hold them in. You only have to lift the lever up about 1/4 inch to move it to a different location on the 8 sided nut. Make sure you can move the lever clockwise enough to lock the fork. Gently retighten the set screws while making sure the lever is not turning hard. Reinstall the top cap and screw.

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    That is what alshead and I have been discussing. You can get in a 45 degree range. Use a number 2 hex to take the top bolt out while holding the adjustment knob still. Then lift up the knob and the hex screw. You will see 3 set screws that take a number 1 hex. Loosen each one only about a turn and a half. Until you can easily lift the blue lever up. There are 3 ball bearings on the bottom **be very careful not to lose them and if they fall out dab a little grease in the hole to hold them in. You only have to lift the lever up about 1/4 inch to move it to a different location on the 8 sided nut. Make sure you can move the lever clockwise enough to lock the fork. Gently retighten the set screws while making sure the lever is not turning hard. Reinstall the top cap and screw.
    Pretty sure it's a 1.5mm hex for the 3 set screws
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  14. #214
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    So does this relocate the lock position too? Or is this basically just move the unlocked lever position closer to the lock point? I guess I need to just take it apart and play. I have my RLC design drawn up and the parts list figured out, now I just need the parts. Broke as a joke...

  15. #215
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    Alshead, I am sure you are correct. The size is so small, I can't possibly read it. It is the one that is smaller than 2 that I have.

    Gokart2. The lock position moves in 45 degree increments as you put the lever on different facets of the nut. Generally, I would go as far clockwise as you can go without the lever hitting the back of the crown.

  16. #216
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    deef lock

    Hello

    I leave in france, can i buy the deef lock for my fox and where ?

    Thanks

  17. #217
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    I asked deef for the same thing but i didn't get any answer.....

  18. #218
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    Ya ... typical no reply Deef. If you want to buy ... he won't reply. Either the product is non-existant or he has NO customer relations skills. He is great at raising expectations and then making people feel stupid. Who would buy anything from him?

  19. #219
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    http://alshub.com/

    click on the top right corner for the tutorial
    "Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride." - John F. Kennedy

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  20. #220
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    Hey guys, I've read a few people have been successful in remolding this remote lockout to be compatible with they're fox forks. I havn't tried it though it seems like it might be your best bet, and its only $30. It's quite hard to do though, so don't say you weren't warned! Hope that helps
    "Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride." - John F. Kennedy

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  21. #221
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    On Page 3 of this thread, RobotHack used the Milo kit you're talking about- looks like quite a bit of work for the cable stop, but can definitely work. Still doesn't solve the RLC issue.

    Man, for the life of me, I can't understand how Deef's system works internally. Anyone have any ideas? I'm hoping to talk to a machining guy this week and see what he says about putting something together...

  22. #222
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    Hope this helps, different perspective:

    http://rafcryns.pinkbike.com/album/DEEF-lock-out/
    "Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride." - John F. Kennedy

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  23. #223
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    Thanks. That is awesome to see some different perspective...and to just see that SOMEONE has actually received one. I seriously still don't understand how that anchor piece that sits inside keeps from spinning... and what's the black conical washer thingie?

  24. #224
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    I honestly don't understand how someone could spend $300, which can get you a new bike, for a little piece of metal so you don't have to bend down while riding...

    I understand with the rear shock but the front...seriously?
    "Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride." - John F. Kennedy

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  25. #225
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    It seems that our efforts would be better spent trying to get Fox to produce a solution, since none of you fabricators seems to want to take this to scale.

    I personally don't care about lockout on the front (never use it - that's what the platform setting is for), but I would like to be able to flick the TALAS between 110 and 140 mm travel on the fly (2012 FOX 32 TALAS 140 FIT RLC), and be able to flip ProPedal on/off for the RP23 without reaching down. The RP23 seems like the low-hanging fruit here. Come on, Fox!

  26. #226
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    Fox is not remotely interested in helping you (pun intended). They want you to buy a new fork that has the lockout built in.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by goto11 View Post
    since none of you fabricators seems to want to take this to scale.
    Not a lack of want- a lack of time. Just a dad w a job and a family who likes bikes and likes to tinker. I hope to pick the project back up thus fall / winter.

    I personally don't care about lockout on the front (never use it - that's what the platform setting is for),
    if you have an rl, there is no platform setting
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  28. #228
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    Message for Robothack:

    Hi,

    I have seen your lockout modification firstly on youtube then on this forum. I must congratulate you, it's so simple and easy using parts already available from rockshox and manitou instead of all the bother of trying to invent/manufacture something from scratch as others seem to be doing all which looks totally proffesional but not achievable by all.

    I am looking at buying the complete MILO lockout kit incl lever (available for £26 at CRC in UK) and trying it myself. If you have the time, I have a few questions I would like to ask.

    1. Did the black ring, with the cable stop, require any modification before fitting and if so to what level?

    2. Was it possible to use the spring that comes with the MILO kit or is it too small or large?

    3. Did you need to seat anything below the circlip (seeger ring) to keep it engaged with the spring or is it held in place by its own tension?

    4. How did you fit the grub screw that secures the cable in place?

    5. Any other thoughts you have to make the job easier?

    Well many thanks for reading this, hope you have time to reply. I wil let you know how I get on and post some pictures on the forum if it works out

    thanks again.

  29. #229
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    als, I share your frustration for not understanding how deef's solution works. I don't even have a Fox but I keep thinking of it and how the ring could be kept in place

    Could it be that it's just pushed in with a rubber mallet? Would this require too tight tolerances?
    Then the two threaded holes could be used for removal: thread in two screws and the ring pops out. Don't know... just trying to apply some lateral thinking

  30. #230
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    @frenk: Thanks for jumping in the foray. I suppose that's possible- if you're doing the rubber mallet, it would have to be using a deep socket or the like to get around the center cylinder. For some reason, I'm skeptical that that's what's going on, but it sure would be great to hear from someone who actually has one or to see installation instructions from Deef.

    @naylor343: I'm sure RobotHack will answer at some point, but I can answer a few of your questions:

    1. Yes, it required modification- I think he talked about this earlier in this thread- and that it wasn't particularly easy modification either. I've put Milo kits together and the top cap is a bit smaller than the Fox one.

    2. I don't think you can use the spring from the Milo kit. I could be wrong and it's been a while since I worked on it, but I'm fairly certain it won't work.

    3. No, you don't need to seat anything below the internal retention clip- it holds itself in place.

    The rest is up to RH.

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by frenk View Post
    als, I share your frustration for not understanding how deef's solution works. I don't even have a Fox but I keep thinking of it and how the ring could be kept in place

    Could it be that it's just pushed in with a rubber mallet? Would this require too tight tolerances?
    Then the two threaded holes could be used for removal: thread in two screws and the ring pops out. Don't know... just trying to apply some lateral thinking
    frenk & als. Maybe you two guys have exceded your tinkering level. If you can get your hands on a external snap ring and find a shaft to slip the external snap ring over that has a minus factor of about 2mm, you will find that after sliping the external snap ring over the shaft and then trying to spin the snap ring, one of the two holes will let the snap ring spin like you think it will. However, if you try to spin the snap ring, using the other hole, it will force the snap ring to grab onto the shaft and not spin. I hope this helps you guys understand and get some sleep.

  32. #232
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    hmmmm.

    Quote Originally Posted by doralswheels View Post
    frenk & als. Maybe you two guys have exceded your tinkering level. If you can get your hands on a external snap ring and find a shaft to slip the external snap ring over that has a minus factor of about 2mm, you will find that after sliping the external snap ring over the shaft and then trying to spin the snap ring, one of the two holes will let the snap ring spin like you think it will. However, if you try to spin the snap ring, using the other hole, it will force the snap ring to grab onto the shaft and not spin. I hope this helps you guys understand and get some sleep.
    Hmmm- I'm not sure you get what we're talking about? The internal piece on Deef's setup isn't a snap ring- not an internal nor external ring, nor does it have those two holes like on a snap ring. I am very familiar with what you're saying as I've been running a remote with the internal retention (snap) ring for a few months with no problems, but we were talking about Deef's internal anchor for the spring.

  33. #233
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    @alshead: Many thanks, I will keep the thread updated as to how it progresses, works/fails, hope it's the former.

  34. #234
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    lockout fox rl

    deef would it be possible to buy the fork parts only as i have a lockout lever ready to use
    Last edited by brianlang; 10-12-2011 at 01:30 PM.

  35. #235
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    If you are trying to buy the lever, Rock Shox has pretty much stopped selling them as a part and now sells the adjustable one. However, if you have a fork that came with that part, you can order the replacement part for that fork. My wife's fork came with the left lever and it is the: Rock Shox Recon Silver TK 26er fork. You should be able to order a replacement lever for that fork and get what you want.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  36. #236
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    remote lockout fox rl

    tried emailing deef no response yet will try again

  37. #237
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    Deef is not interested in helping any of us. He made 4 sets and sold them for over $200 each and he is done.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  38. #238
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    I just stumbled on this thread.....lots of great ideas....anyone else other than Deef selling any kits?

  39. #239
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    Hello.
    I can install any remote on my fox vanilla 32 r 2008?
    10x

  40. #240
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    is deef died? fox killed him!!!!!

  41. #241
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    I recently finally got around to trying to put my kit together for the RLC, but it's not going to work- you can't put in the internal spring as the compression knob seals off that part of the top cap and makes it impossible. I'd love to see other solutions from folks using an external spring or the like. If you're toying around and trying stuff, keep posting here- this thread picks up in the winter time .

  42. #242
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    i want one deef kit....what i have to do?

  43. #243
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    Deef is dead

    Quote Originally Posted by arnaldo View Post
    i want one deef kit....what i have to do?
    Nothing. People have been trying to contact Deef for over two years. You're better off trying to put together your own solution.

  44. #244
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    ok alshead....i can product a kit fo you...do you have msn or skype to talk?

  45. #245
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    sorry but you have to geve me msn or skype...becouse i can't send you PM!

  46. #246
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    arnaldo only has 4 posts so he can't pm yet. arnaldo, do a few more posts, but the sad fact is that Deef is not selling kits, and according to him, he only made 4 kits and sold them for about what it would cost to buy the new internal parts from Fox to add a remote. Also of note, we have never heard from any of Deef's 4 customers so I am still thinking "vaporware" and that the parts Deef showed never actually worked as alshead has questioned.
    I am doing my simple light solution as seen around page 4 and have been very happy for many miles. The other solution with a fabricated bracket attached to a starnut in the bottom of the steer tube is even more robust although I have had no issues with my setup except that at around 4 months the cable or crimped end stretched enough that the fork had a little play when locked. (this was probably 400 miles and many many locks) and all I had to do was put a new crimp piece on the end. The other bike (RLC) with over 400 miles (I ride it more) is still going strong and it was my 2nd effort and probably more precise.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  47. #247
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    ok, i hope to have soon a new kit...at the moment i'm studying the procedure to make it, but i'm sure that i can make a simply remote kit...for rl fork....and then for rp2/23

  48. #248
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    Excellent- Arnaldo- thanks for trying to hit me up on Skype- e-mail is definitely better as I'm in front of my computer usually in spurts. I'd love to chat through ideas/ designs/ concepts, and I think many of the other tinkerers on here would love to be a part of that as well. Like I said before, I'm most interested in there just being a decent solution and would love to come up with something that could be used with an RLC as well as an RL. If you're talking about fabricating pieces, I'm down to help with measurements, drawings, sketch ups, and overall design if you can do the machining. I was thinking a combination of many of the designs we've seen on this board. A fabricated lockout lever that replaces the existing one but has small cable-routing holes with set screws for anchoring the cable (like Deef's). Either a cable stop like 103's (that secures into the bottom of the steerer tube) or one like Deef's that anchors around the top cap, but with a cable stop that is further out (like 103's) to be able to use surgical tubing or a spring to allow for use with either the RL or RLC (so, no internal spring).

  49. #249
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    Just what needs to be done to get a MILO Lockout to fit onto the fork? Does anyone have experience with this mod?

  50. #250
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    RobotHack, p.3

    Quote Originally Posted by squirlyvt View Post
    Just what needs to be done to get a MILO Lockout to fit onto the fork? Does anyone have experience with this mod?
    Squirly- go back to page 3 in these forums. RobotHack did the Milo adaptation. Haven't heard from him in a little bit, but it appeared that he had to do some pretty significant dremel work/ filing to get the piece to fit around the Fox top cap. Again, this mod won't work with an RLC.

    I have copied what 103 did and it's working flawlessly on an RLC. I am working with a buddy to try to mass-produce something like this out of plastic- a lower steerer-tube anchor/ cable guide of sorts. Hope to have something in production within about a month or so- definitely by spring . The only pics I have are before I routed the cable, but I have a spring with small surgical tubing inside for the release, a RS Poploc lever, and it works like a charm.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Remote Lockout Fox RL-img_0246.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-img_0251.jpg  


  51. #251
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    Hello everyone,

    I have this fork
    Fox Evolution 32 Float 29 RL, 100mm, Lockout
    CUBE*LTD SL 29

    and I have found the following upgrade

    Fox Forx RL Remote Upgrade Service Kit
    http://www.foxspares.com/shop/system...3Dposition1%26

    Do you know if it is compatible and what else I am gonna need?

    Will the upgrade with a RockShox PopLoc Adjust Lever be enough or is it better to follow the instructions here Als Hub Bicycle Maintenance and Repair and forget the rest?

  52. #252
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    anyone?

  53. #253
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    Youthful- You've probably figured this out by now, but the kit you were looking at is, I believe, for a rear shock. Won't work or help you with the front fork.

  54. #254
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    Cable Guide Solution Available

    Okay kids- this thread has more longevity than many bikes, so if any of y'all are still interested...

    A few posts back, I mentioned that I had copied what 103 did (bottom of page 10) and that we were looking to provide something like that in a lightweight plastic. Well, at long last, it's ready. You can purchase it directly from the manufacturer. There is one for a tapered steerer tube and one for a standard 1 1/8 steerer. I'm at work now and will post a full tutorial and video later, but wanted to share it. I'm not making any money on this, but the plastic bits cost between $20-25 bucks (they are 3D printed- super cool). Basically, it's a guide for the cable housing that secures into the bottom of the steerer. You'll still need a screw and nut (I'll provide exactly what size), remote lever, a spring, and to drill your blue lockout lever and secure the cable (a few ways to do this). I have this set up on my F29 100mm RLC with a tapered steerer for the past couple of months and it's working great (pics, etc to come). Here are some static shots of the first prototype that I have mounted up and we made some minor revisions to the final product. If you want to check it out, the site is Shapeways and the links are here:

    Tapered: Lockout Tapered by Ahead on Shapeways
    Standard: Lockout 1 1/8 by Ahead on Shapeways

    When you go to the Shapeways site, click on the little 3D cube to the right of the image and you can see it spin in 3D and manipulate it. It's not a tinker-proof solution, but it's working really well, is clean, lightweight, and secures the cable so that it won't scoot in the middle of a ride and leave your system not working the way that zip-tying it did for me (might not for everyone- not trying to dis, that was just my experience). Oh- and they're available in black, white, or really any color you want (you can even have one printed out of steel or silver for beaucoup bucks). The little square piece attached on the side snips off and moves inside the vertical pieces to spread them out as it's pulled down (with screw and nut), secure the piece in place inside your steerer.

    Word.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Remote Lockout Fox RL-screen-shot-2012-02-20-2.19.33-pm.png  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-img_0665.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-img_0667.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images  

  55. #255
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    Nice job Al!



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  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Okay kids- this thread has more longevity than many bikes, so if any of y'all are still interested...
    .
    beatiful work al!

  57. #257
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    Yes, still interested!!!! More pictures of your system

    JC

  58. #258
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    Hello! I write from Spain ... I want to block my kit fox, can it be?

  59. #259
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    David-82 Look at post 172 and you can do it with a remote lockout and a random spring and some zip ties.
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    Where I can buy the parts?

  61. #261
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    where I can buy a kit like Deef?

  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Youthful- You've probably figured this out by now, but the kit you were looking at is, I believe, for a rear shock. Won't work or help you with the front fork.
    No, it's not, and yes it does.
    Here's Fox's own service page describing the details of the kit: Remote RL Service Procedures.

    I haven't checked with my local distributor whether it will work on my Float RL or not, but it looks promising.

  63. #263
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    pmex: all those parts cost around $200 from Fox and take a rocket scientist to install. My solution requires a remote from RockShox that is way less than $50 and took me about 15 minutes to install and has worked flawlessly for close to a year. Also, the Fox solution weigh's more.
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  64. #264
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    Can anyone help me?

  65. #265
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    Thanks to Al for making this a reality. I ordered my cable holder from Shapeways based on the design that Al provided. It works like a champ on my Fox F32 RLC 120mm travel fork paired with a poploc.




    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Okay kids- this thread has more longevity than many bikes, so if any of y'all are still interested...

    A few posts back, I mentioned that I had copied what 103 did (bottom of page 10) and that we were looking to provide something like that in a lightweight plastic. Well, at long last, it's ready. You can purchase it directly from the manufacturer. There is one for a tapered steerer tube and one for a standard 1 1/8 steerer. I'm at work now and will post a full tutorial and video later, but wanted to share it. I'm not making any money on this, but the plastic bits cost between $20-25 bucks (they are 3D printed- super cool). Basically, it's a guide for the cable housing that secures into the bottom of the steerer. You'll still need a screw and nut (I'll provide exactly what size), remote lever, a spring, and to drill your blue lockout lever and secure the cable (a few ways to do this). I have this set up on my F29 100mm RLC with a tapered steerer for the past couple of months and it's working great (pics, etc to come). Here are some static shots of the first prototype that I have mounted up and we made some minor revisions to the final product. If you want to check it out, the site is Shapeways and the links are here:

    Tapered: Lockout Tapered by Ahead on Shapeways
    Standard: Lockout 1 1/8 by Ahead on Shapeways

    When you go to the Shapeways site, click on the little 3D cube to the right of the image and you can see it spin in 3D and manipulate it. It's not a tinker-proof solution, but it's working really well, is clean, lightweight, and secures the cable so that it won't scoot in the middle of a ride and leave your system not working the way that zip-tying it did for me (might not for everyone- not trying to dis, that was just my experience). Oh- and they're available in black, white, or really any color you want (you can even have one printed out of steel or silver for beaucoup bucks). The little square piece attached on the side snips off and moves inside the vertical pieces to spread them out as it's pulled down (with screw and nut), secure the piece in place inside your steerer.

    Word.

  66. #266
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    Good job! You could probably sell those on this list.
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  67. #267
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    Super cool to see one set up on someone else's bike than mine! I've had a few people buy them, but haven't heard any feedback. I will post some step-by-step's soon- what screws to buy (#6-32 x 1") and what spring to get (hoping ljracer can give me some direction on this as I have just cobbled mine together with springs I had lying around).

    More to come...

  68. #268
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    Parts and Pieces

    Okay- so I wanted to put together SOMETHING to help folks out who might be interested in the cable stop.

    Again, tapered and non-tapered versions are available here:

    Tapered: Lockout Tapered by Ahead on Shapeways
    Standard: Lockout 1 1/8 by Ahead on Shapeways

    These pictures are of the black tapered one, but the parts and instructions are the same for both:

    Parts you will need:
    1) #6-32 1 1/2" screw and nut (you can get these at Home Depot in packs of 4)
    1) #6-32 nut (at HD in packs of 12- annoying, but it's the easiest option for most)
    1) Remote lever. I've been using the Rock Shox PushLoc. Can be had with a web search at around $60 and sometimes lower. The PopLoc will also work for a little cheaper at some sites, and other remote levers should work as well.
    1) Spring: LJRacer got the 3/16 x 1-3/8 x 0.028 or 4.776 x 34.925 x .711 mm
    Utility Compression Spring C-580 from his local hardware store- I know they have them at ACE- maybe at HD. For more, go to CSC Coil Springs Manufacturer - Stock & Custom - MRO & OEM | Century Spring Corp.
    1) Brass Cable Stop*. You can get these at Pep Boys/ Auto Zone/ Checker/ Advanced, or just about any auto parts store. It came in a package of 6, all different sizes- this is the smallest (1/16"). Cost for all 6 was $3.39. I'm sure you can find them individually, but here's a link to the Advanced item: Buy Dorman - Help Cable Stops - Various Maximum Wire Diameter 03336 at Advance Auto Parts. For mostly aesthetic reasons, I then also picked up a socket head (3/32) set screw to replace the standard screw.
    1) In-line housing/ cable adjuster. This is optional, but I find is really nice for dialing in the lockout. You can get these at any bike shop- jagwire makes a ton of them- also a google search will bring them up on Amazon, etc.

    * If you have an RL and not an RLC, then I recommend doing the internal spring mod- it's stronger, cleaner, and works phenomenally. For more on this, go to Als Hub Bicycle Maintenance and Repair and click on the "DIY Remote Lockout" link in the upper right. This needs to be updated with info for the new cable stops, but the internal spring instructions are the same.

    What to do:
    1. Order from Shapeways. I make no money off of these, fwiw.
    2. Get your parts ordered, procured, etc.
    3. When you receive the part from Shapeways, cut the little tab/ spreader insert off the mold (I still don't know how to put pics in-line with text on here... sorry about that).
    4. Press the #6-32 nut into it's place on the spreader. I recommend a little super glue as this will help push the spreader back for removal.
    5. Insert screw and thread in a smidge (that's official terminology for 1/4" or so ).
    6. Slip into the bottom of your steerer tube and tighten.
    7. Mount remote lever with cable, inline adjuster (if using), housing, etc.
    8. Thread cable through stop.
    9. Thread through Spring.
    10. Drill lockout lever (in my pics, I also tapped a small allen screw from the top to avoid using the brass cable stop).
    11. Slide cable through lever and stop.
    12. Tighten and adjust as necessary. I found it best to put the lever and remote in locked position, then pull tension through the cable and tighten.
    13. Test. Adjust. Ride.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Remote Lockout Fox RL-img_1532.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-img_1534.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-img_1537.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-img_1539.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-img_1540.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-img_1541.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-img_1530.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-screen-shot-2012-06-01-9.21.15-am.jpg  


  69. #269
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    Finally; after over 4 years of waiting, there is an off the shelf solution to this problem. Way to go Alshead and ljracer! If my qhetto mod ever fails, I will be converting to this much cleaner method immediately.
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  70. #270
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    I wouldn't exactly call it an "off the shelf" solution, but it's something to work with .


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  71. #271
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    Cool! Someone else just bought a couple. 4-5 people have bought them so far, but ljracer is the first to post anything about his experience. If any others have bought and are lurking here, post up about your experience with the cable stops from Shapeways. Your feedback is appreciated. The model is relatively easy to adjust (especially because my buddy does all the CADD work ), so little tweaks can definitely help make a better product. Word.

  72. #272
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    I use the fork hight adjustment allot more then the lockout on my bike. Do you have any plans for a cable-stop for a TALAS-remote in a near future?

  73. #273
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    Axa- I don't ride a Talas and I'm not sure how it would work, but if you think you could use a reverse image of what we've already put together for the lockout and make it work, that would be easy to provide. You could also try using these same ones and run it off the front of the fork. I think the trickiest part would be if it's a 3 position fork- I know some are three and some are two. Either way, lemme know what you think about using the existing model or a reverse-direction/ mirror image and I can do that.

  74. #274
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    Still more folks buying the steerer tube cable router from Shapeways, but still haven't received much feedback from folks- let me know how they're working!

  75. #275
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    @alshead....is there anyway around me drilling a hole on the crown? i just bought a TREK SUPERFLY AL ELITE and would not want to void my warranty.

    thanks.

  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    @alshead....is there anyway around me drilling a hole on the crown? i just bought a TREK SUPERFLY AL ELITE and would not want to void my warranty.

    thanks.
    Hmmm- not sure what you're referring to. There is no need to drill a hole in your crown. If you mean your blue lever, there's not really a way around it- we tried to do a cap that goes over it a while back, but it wasn't reliable and would pop off sometimes. If you're worried about warranty, you can buy new blue levers for about $20 (order through your LBS or find one online) and you could always drill the extra one or keep the extra one around if you ever have to bring the fork/ bike in for warranty issues.

  77. #277
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    Fox remote lever 2013

    Hi i am looking for a set up for a FOX Evolution series Float 29, CTD damper, tapered alloy steerer, CTD damper, open 9mm dropout, external rebound adj., 100mm travel
    that comes with my 2013 carve pro (Hardtail) using
    the fox CTD 2013 remote lever .what more do i need?
    aslhead
    THKS

  78. #278
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    Some one help?

  79. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Hmmm- not sure what you're referring to. There is no need to drill a hole in your crown. If you mean your blue lever, there's not really a way around it- we tried to do a cap that goes over it a while back, but it wasn't reliable and would pop off sometimes. If you're worried about warranty, you can buy new blue levers for about $20 (order through your LBS or find one online) and you could always drill the extra one or keep the extra one around if you ever have to bring the fork/ bike in for warranty issues.
    yup, i meant the blue lever... thank you. will look into this... better yet.. would you be able to provide a link to the the blue lever..staff on my LBS are SNOBS and i cant seem to really talk to them without me thinking that i am a burden to them...

    thank you again.

  80. #280
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    I am looking for a setup the 2013 fox ctd remote lever for my carve pro 2013 fox ctd fork
    anybody ?

  81. #281
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    Troyabusa-you need to read through the entire thread. I have posted several solutions complete with pictures and others have other ideas that you might like better. Nobody wants to clutter up the thread answering everybody that doesn't want to take the time to read the thread.

    To give an example, I am currently working my way through a 4000+post thread on Chinese carbon 29er rims. I could just jump in at the end and ask a bunch of questions that have already been answered. Instead, I am taking a couple of weeks to wade through the entire thread and in the process I am learning much. Including what the important questions to ask are.

    The forum is a fabulous way to gain knowledge but only works if everybody gets up to speed before they jump in. Otherwise, it wastes more time than it gains.
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  82. #282
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    People keep buying the units I put up on Shapeways- I'd love to see some more pics of them on your bikes!

  83. #283
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    @alshead

    I just ordered the steerer tube cable router from Shapeways and a SRAM PopLoc. I'll post pictures after I get it installed and operational. Thanks for designing the cable router and posting a low-cost remote lockout for Fox forks.

  84. #284
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    Sweet!

    Quote Originally Posted by SummitSlug View Post
    @alshead

    I just ordered the steerer tube cable router from Shapeways and a SRAM PopLoc. I'll post pictures after I get it installed and operational. Thanks for designing the cable router and posting a low-cost remote lockout for Fox forks.
    Cool! Thanks, Slug- I look forward to hearing how it works for you. About a dozen people have picked them up, but I have only heard the one response, above.

    Enjoy!
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  85. #285
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    By the way, I have a part number for the left hand Poplock which is the one that has been discussed in this forum It is: 11.4308.848.000

    The newer version (called PushLoc) that came with some 2012 and 2013 forks also for the left side is 11.4015.173.000. This one is fancier and heavier and it is a push/push release as opposed to a push a lever to lock and push a different button to release. I don't like it as well,but some might like it better. Also, this newer one can be removed without sliding it off the end of the bar since when you remove the bolt, the clamp opens in half and can be removed or added to the bar.
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  86. #286
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    If anybody wants, I can take pictures of both designs.
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  87. #287
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    ...still getting notices that the cable guides are getting purchased here and there- would love to see some setup and experience, etc.

    Troyabusa- I don't know if you got this taken care of in the last 4 months, but for the CTD forks, Fox sells a remote kit that has three lever positions (CTD) and is $80. It can be dual pull for a rear shock as well, but can be set up to run just the fork. Instructions are online and the conversion looks pretty simple.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  88. #288
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    @alshead

    Finished installing the remote lockout with a Push-lock It's working great but haven't tried it on the trail. I attempted to drill and thread a set screw in the lock-out lever but didn't leave enough material for the threads - so may order a replacement lockout lever and redrill it.
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  89. #289
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    ....
    Last edited by SummitSlug; 01-27-2013 at 09:58 PM.

  90. #290
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    Nice!
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  91. #291
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    I have ordered the shapeways item some weeks ago and received it some days ago. For the Dutch people the item is send from Eindhoven in the Netherlands. That way it is a lot quicker.

    I have installed it with a Pushloc system from Rockshox. I only had some difficulty's to find a fitting spring. I found one that is slightly to big and heavy.

    Thanks for this great item

  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by SummitSlug View Post
    @alshead

    Finished installing the remote lockout with a Push-lock It's working great but haven't tried it on the trail. I attempted to drill and thread a set screw in the lock-out lever but didn't leave enough material for the threads - so may order a replacement lockout lever and redrill it.
    Awesome! Let me know how it stands up on the trail!
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  93. #293
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    More and more of these are selling, which is great- I hope people are liking them and they're holding up on the trail.

    On a related note, I have a Rock Shox PushLoc remote, new in packaging if anyone needs one. PM me.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  94. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axa View Post
    I use the fork hight adjustment allot more then the lockout on my bike. Do you have any plans for a cable-stop for a TALAS-remote in a near future?
    Agreed 100%.

    I rarely use lockout, just TALAS for short/long travel climbing/descending, respectively. A TALAS remote would be key for the way I ride.

  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    More and more of these are selling, which is great- I hope people are liking them and they're holding up on the trail.

    On a related note, I have a Rock Shox PushLoc remote, new in packaging if anyone needs one. PM me.
    No one I ride with uses lockout, except perhaps on the rare occasion that we are on the road for several miles, but even on road the suspension is nice when I hit a pothole or something... I can't remember the last time I used lockout.

    It seems to me that lockout defeats the purpose of owning a suspension fork and I don't understand why a properly set up fork would need a remote to actuate it. That's what the compression and platform settings are for. Back in the early 90's, when I switched from rigid to suspension forks, lockout was a crutch to aid in the transition, but is no longer necessary.

    Are you guys who use lockout so much that you need a remote just a bunch of roadies who dabble in mountain biking? I'm not saying the feature should go away, but it is so rarely used that a handlebar remote seems silly to me.

    If you need to lock out your fork, then maybe you need a shorter stem? A properly-balanced and tuned suspension configuration should not be significantly compressing the fork due to rider input, but due to terrain input, in which case lockout will actually slow you down, not speed you up.

    Rant over. I would love to see a remote for TALAS. It sucks when I realize mid-descent that I forgot to switch to long travel. Not to bag on your product alshead - you clearly have a market for it, and being an ME myself, I respect the engineering. Perhaps your market is XC riders, but AM riders benefit greatly from TALAS in toggling between XC and DH mode, and ease of lockout is not really a consideration for us.

  96. #296
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    goto11; you obviously don't ride SS. We have a lot of hills around here and when riding ss you have to stand and pump when going up steep hills with a 34-19 gear. When you do that much energy is wasted pumping the fork unless you have a lockout. This is even true to the extent that I like Rock Shox forks better except on SS I prefer Fox since you can set the gate to where they barely move on Fox forks.

    Around here it is likely that I will lock the fork as often as 10 times in a mile as I go up and down and up. Also, having a lockout on a geared bike is still an advantage especially for those that race. If you save a half second on every steep hill on the course it adds up to a lot in a race that is decided by seconds. Locked out forks are much more efficient during climbing especially if you are standing. Also, if you ever tried a fork that locks with the flip of a lever, you would never go back unless you just don't care how well you climb.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  97. #297
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    Does anyone have one of the older left side pushlock levers like the one pictured in post 288? Alshead's is like the newer design as pictured in post 268 for those that are interested in buying his. If you have one and it is a left one and you want to sell it, pm me.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    goto11; you obviously don't ride SS.
    Good point. No, I do not regularly ride SS. I do have a single speed Klunker and understand how hard you have to pump when standing up and climbing, so I can see the potential value of lockout (except I have a rigid fork on that bike).

    I am an all-mountain rider: XC style up and DH style down. I have been in a few races over the years and ridden every type of MTB since the early days of the sport. I climb in a seated position with a smooth cadence and as such, there is no front/rear suspension bob due to rider input. I'm not riding for time these days, but I'm not a slow rider either.

    Standing up while climbing does not provide optimal traction or speed, either on a rigid or full-plush bike, though it is a necessity when riding a bike that lacks low gears. I like gears, but to each his/her own.

    I know I'm flame-baiting here on MTBR where single speeds and XC-oriented niners are all the rage, but the real problem here seems to be that people are riding bikes without proper gearing, and that lockout is a solution to a self-imposed problem. The fact that a disproportionate number of bikes for sale on Craigslist are SS shows that this is a form of masochism that many people who jump on the bandwagon soon realize is no fun at all.

    If you take pleasure in riding like Tinker Juarez in the big ring, then more power to you. Different strokes for different folks. I do think I represent the majority of long-time, hardcore mountain bikers, though, as opposed to those who recently jumped on the SS/29er bandwagon.

    Only time will tell if the recent SS and XC 29er phenomenon has any staying power. I already see the days of this trend dwindling with the recent onslaught of AM-oriented hardtails coming on the market as a backlash to these crippled, under-geared bikes everyone has been buying, and then selling on Craigslist once they realize the limitations of these designs make mountain biking unenjoyable.

    As for the OP, no disrespect. I see that you have several bikes in your quiver. It took me 18 years before I added a full-suspension bike to my quiver. There is a 29er hardtail monstercross bike in the near future, but it will also have a triple out front and big cogs in the back. Maybe one day I'll get a single speeder, but I live in a valley with hills all around, and I don't want to limit the options of where I can ride.

  99. #299
    4 Niners
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    Gearing is not the answer to all terrain. We have many places here that have very short very steep hills with turns at the bottom and it is very hard to downshift the several gears at one time in the transition so even the fast guys usually just stand at the top. The guys around here that go into the really low gears and spin are the really slow guys. An average hill around here is 75-100 feet long but 25% grade and transitions from a short fairly flat section usually at a tight turn so you would have to go from a 22-18 to a 22-34 right at the bottom of the hill while peddling hard or you could just shift to a 22-25 and stand at the top. Most will do that and the slow guys will shift all the gears at the bottom and then climb the entire hill at 2 mph. I will admit that there are some hills where the lockout is not the answer because on top of the steep grade there are some nasty roots to bounce over but if they are at the bottom you can bounce over them at speed and then hit the lockout for the top part. A lockout is just another tool in the quiver just like gears and hydraulic disc brakes.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  100. #300
    AM, monstercross, klunker
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Gearing is not the answer to all terrain. We have many places here that have very short very steep hills with turns at the bottom and it is very hard to downshift the several gears at one time in the transition so even the fast guys usually just stand at the top. The guys around here that go into the really low gears and spin are the really slow guys. An average hill around here is 75-100 feet long...
    It sounds like you don't ride in a very mountainous/hilly region compared to me. Most of my trails require about 1000' of elevation gain (not distance, but vertical gain) before I get to top, then drop down into the good stuff. I climb in my middle ring. On most rides under 25 miles, I never shift into the granny... But there are those 30+ mile epics when a granny is nice to have at the end of a long day .

    I am not an advocate of granny gears - they should be avoided - but I do think a wide gear ratio warrants the weight penalty for the terrain I ride. If I rode where you do, then a SS bike would probably be the ticket.

    Ride on!

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