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  1. #101
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    @Deef: Stop teasing. Do you have something to show us?

  2. #102
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    I don't have no stinking warranty issues. Both my Fox's are out of warranty anyway. I am interested in either system that can be marketable. etch, did you weld the cable stop on the back of the fork? If so, is there a way around that?

  3. #103
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    Mongo want!

    Me want. Where can buy? Me have paypal (and a woody)

  4. #104
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    alshead ...dont think there will be any warranty issues as it can all be removed and the original manual lever refitted if required......the torsion spring needs to fixed in two positions one in the underneath of the top cap and the other fixing made so that the spring does not just rotate without tensioning the spring ......i did this by making a bush which is pressed over the central shaft you can see when the topcap is removed.
    I tried to make several topcaps from aluminium stock but the octagonal shape in the center is quite hard to get right thats why i ended up using the original topcap .
    I would have to look how much it would cost to get topcaps made now i have all the dimensions......the springs are less than a pound and i paid £26 for the poploc and cable i really didnt think there would be a market for this! just wanted to convert mine cuz i have some rockshox remote lockout forks on my other bike and wanted the same for my Anthem.
    I suppose price of machined topcaps would be dependant on volume.
    Yourdaguy......the cable stop is not welded to the fork it is held in place with a taper locking bush which fits up inside the steerer tube.........the type that holds front mudguards in place

  5. #105
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    That looks awesome and I would love to have one. If you guys get something for the market send me a pm.
    There is not much choice between rotten apples.

  6. #106
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    PM hell! Subscribe to the thread and they will announce. These guys are too busy inventing to send every interested party a PM

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy
    PM hell! Subscribe to the thread and they will announce. These guys are too busy inventing to send every interested party a PM
    Ok, I'm subscribed!

    Thanks,

    Michael
    If you can't keep the rubber side down......at least smile for the camera!

  8. #108
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    Hi all forum Users

    Alshead and Deef You have done very interesting projects. I am also currently working on implementing the concept of remote control for my Fox. But there is one problem. Most of the homemade construction is based on the use of RockShox Pop Lock shifters. But this is an effective pitch shifter links 17 mm. In this position, the Fox lockout lever fork IMHO seems to be too strong compression, especially for XC riding. Full turn Fox lockout lever is about 50 mm and shifters RockShox Pop lock is not able to handle it. Have You ever wondered how to solve this problem?

  9. #109
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    robothack: according to the Fox manual the lever does basically nothing for most of its travel. It completely locks in the last 5 mm or so. It is not a variable lever. It is either on or off. Basically you only partially open it from the locked position but this has no effect on performance. I believe this was mentioned earlier in this thread.

  10. #110
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    Yes- the Fox lever is either on or off (no increase in compression or anything like that in a Rock Shox- the lockout is actually a lockout). The swing to get it to open is less than 15mm- often less than 90 degrees from lockout.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by etch
    Hi new to this site and stumbled across this thread , i made a remote lockout for my RL fox forks and thought i would share it with you this has been on my Anthem for around 3 months and works like a dream.........using the rockshox lockout idea and a poploc i converted the fox lever by removing the lug and machining a aluminium ring to press fit around it ,then added a cable guide piece.......it returns via a torsion spring situated under the lockout ....(you dont want exposed springs which can get caught or full of dirt!) i have added a couple of pics and will add a video of the lockout working when i can.

    Why does the rebound knob turn with the lockout?

  12. #112
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    I have a fork Fox 32 F-Series RL 120 Trawel produced at the end of 2009. Change the location of the lockout lever will increase compression and rotate the lever clockwise Fully lockout the fork.
    yourdaguy: According to the Fox manual

    "... the blue compression lockout lever is located below the red rebound adjuster knob. It Allows the rider to close the compression damping circuit in the fork. This keeps the fork at the top of its travel, making it harder to compress. Rotate Fully clockwise the lever to lockout the fork ... "

    There is a need to Fox lockout lever could move about 180 degrees but it is difficult to implement.
    Last edited by robothack; 03-29-2011 at 12:56 PM.

  13. #113
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    @Robothack: I've never seen this to be true. The only compression adjustment on the 32mm Fox forks are on RLC's and RLT's and it's a separate dial. I imagine there might be some minor bit where the valve isn't all the way released and it might affect the compression a little, but if you look at the internals of these forks, you'll see what I mean.

  14. #114
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    the-one1.......the rebound dial turns with the lockout because of thre spring arrangement i use underneath the lockout, this does not effect the rebound in any way as you basically set the rebound as you would with the lockout off and your not using rebound when the forks are locked out.
    Robothack...there is no compression setting on the RL fork......The RLC fork does have compression setting and has a seperate dial for this underneath the lockout lever.
    I have found that on the RL fork the lockout lever needs very little movement to go between on/off lockout..........less than 15degrees of movement so the rockshox poploc levers are ideal for this purpose ,like i have said i have been using my lockout system for the last 3months without any problems.

  15. #115
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    Wow... a lot of things seem to have been changed since I last checked!

    Anyone have any ideas for an RLC version yet?

    Also I'm based in the UK and I'm sure there would be a lot of interest over here- I have friends Stateside you could post to and I could receive on this end.

  16. #116
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    Alshead in my fork so it works. Change the location of the lockout lever Will Increase compression and rotate the lever clockwise Fully lockout the fork. In this position, is completely blocked.
    Yes, the RLC's and RLT's have a separate dial, but it is adjusting the Low-Speed ​​Compression it is similar to ProPedal function.
    Soon I should finish my project so I will tell how it works.

  17. #117
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    Manual?

    Quote Originally Posted by robothack
    Alshead in my fork so it works. Change the location of the lockout lever Will Increase compression and rotate the lever clockwise Fully lockout the fork. In this position, is completely blocked.
    Yes, the RLC's and RLT's have a separate dial, but it is adjusting the Low-Speed ​​Compression it is similar to ProPedal function.
    Soon I should finish my project so I will tell how it works.
    I'm not trying to be a contrarian, but I just don't think that's how the fork is designed. You mentioned earlier that it says something about it in your manual/ instructions. All of Fox's manuals/ instructions are online and there's nothing in there about the blue lever on an RL serving as a compression damping lever- only lockout (http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tec...09_OM_eng.htm).

    I am aware that between fully locked out and about 90 degrees open, there might be some "sense" of compression, but I don't think it serves to moderate compression otherwise.

  18. #118
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    According to the Fox manual page 74 http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tec...9EnglishOM.pdf

    "... the blue compression lockout lever is located below the red rebound adjuster knob. It Allows the rider to close the compression damping circuit in the fork. This keeps the fork at the top of its travel, making it harder to compress. Rotate Fully clockwise the lever to lockout the fork ... "

  19. #119
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    Locked out= harder to compress.

    Quote Originally Posted by robothack
    According to the Fox manual page 74 http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tec...9EnglishOM.pdf

    "... the blue compression lockout lever is located below the red rebound adjuster knob. It Allows the rider to close the compression damping circuit in the fork. This keeps the fork at the top of its travel, making it harder to compress. Rotate Fully clockwise the lever to lockout the fork ... "
    Again, not trying to be argumentative- but I read this as "WHEN you close the compression damping circuit (meaning, locked out), it keeps the fork at the top of its travel."

    Both the way I read it, and from my experience riding many Fox forks and overhauling probably 50 of them, the blue lever does not have a graduated effect on the damping circuit. It is locked out or not locked out. Again, totally open to being wrong, but this is my experience and my understanding of how this circuit works.

  20. #120
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    FWIW, the remote kit throws the lever either on or off. No adjustable compression. I know this doesn't "prove" anything... I'm just sayin'

  21. #121
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    According to my subjective feelings (I have no way to measure it ) for me it works like this
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  22. #122
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    robothack if you look at the parts of the fork taken apart it would be apparent that your impressions are not true. The way it works the port is either open or closed and it only closes in the last few degrees. Your picture could be right at 70% and lockout, because right before the port is closed, it is partially blocked. The 30 and 50 % areas are no compression areas.

  23. #123
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    Update: almost al the parts are ready. Including a new type cap for the air valve!
    Soon there will be pictures.
    My lockout is working on a smaller radius. So when you use the RS lever there is enough rotation for full unlock/no compression.

  24. #124
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    Hi Bikers i finished my project version 1 a remote lockout for my Fox 32 F 120 RL fork. Conception is based on the rockshox poploc lockout, modified the Fox blue compression lockout lever by hole for cable and cable bolt nut, the hole for the spring and modified rope handle and spring from Manitou MILO Adjuster Knob Kit. The torsion spring situated under the lockout lever. The system operates satisfactorily but i discussed earlier this is an effective pitch shifter links 17 mm and in this position, the Fox lockout lever fork IMHO seems to be too strong compression for XC. Perhaps in the next version of the system will operate in full adjustment needed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Remote Lockout Fox RL-robot_remote_fox_1.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-robot_remote_fox_2.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-robot_remote_fox_3.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-robot_remote_fox_4.jpg  


  25. #125
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    @ Robothack: Looks awesome- I'd love to see a picture of the spring setup inside. I liked your graphic, but I agree with @yourdaguy. I think there is some partial closing that you can feel between 75-100% (90 degrees, FWIW), but beyond 75% (I'd say more like 80% on my forks), there is no effective compression. The port is open.

    @yourdaguy: Yeah- what he said

    @Deef: Looking forward to it! Will your design work with an RLC? You're going to have a lot of interested folks if you can price them right.

    @Everyone else: I have two remote lockout levers (Rockshox Poploc) for sale if you want to try your own tinkering...

  26. #126
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    FWIW- from Eric at PUSH:

    The Float RL has rebound and lockout. The lockout lever only needs to be moved about 90 degrees to engage the lockout. There is no external compression control on the RL model. The RLC model adds the external low speed compression as well as a threshold adjust for your lockout.

    Eric M.
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    1520 Taurus Court
    Loveland, CO 80537
    ph. (970) 278-1110 ext.308
    www.pushindustries.com

  27. #127
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    Alshead my patented (license GPL) spring system is very simple. I used 22 mm seger ring to attach the spring and control its forces. I made a hole in the lever for the spring. The hard part is selecting the diameter of the spring and its strength but this problem can be partially offset seger ring. I'll do a few more shots of the interior soon. How does it work? Review the film.

    <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/zKuGZuYNPio?hl=pl&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/zKuGZuYNPio?hl=pl&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

  28. #128
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    My 2010 RL locks out with within 1/4"-1/8" movement. The whole lockout moves 90+ degrees but it has no affect for 90% of the rotation. It's just a very small rotation (10 degrees?) that the shock goes from full suspension to complete lockout.

  29. #129
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    Alshead........i will post pics of my torsion spring setup when i can but it is very simple basically you need to first press a bush over the central shaft you can see when you remove the lockout lever this is a split bush and is made so the outside dia is a tight fit so when you push it on it contracts the inner hole dia to clamp it tight around the shaft(hope this makes sense) this bush has a hole in it to hold one end of the torsion spring , i made my bush from aluminium but i am experimenting with a plastic one at the moment. the other end of the torsion spring is held by drilling a hole on the underside of the lockout lever.
    The spring itself is very simple i had many attempts at making a spring and eventually found you only need a one coil spring, it needs to be left wound as the lockout revolves in a clockwise direction and the spring has a dia of 18mm approx. (1.2mm wire dia)
    The rest of my setup you can see in my video in previous post , like i say i will post pics of the spring and split bush when i can.........i also think you need a cable guide round the lockout to locate the cable properley and it looks better.
    My personal feelings is that anyone who has access to a lathe/workshop can produce a lockout that will work for them......i have no interest in producing these to sell but will help anyone who needs pics /dimensions etc to have a go at making their own.
    I have "field tested" my setup now for three months without any issues .

  30. #130
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    Do you think that is possible to use the same method on a RLC removing the compression bezel? (Obviously once that is properly set!)

  31. #131
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    @ Robothack: Thanks- yes, I've seen the video, but I would love to see the internals. I don't totally understand how you have the seger ring situated.

    @ Etch: Nice- same thing- I'd like to see the internals. I agree about the topcap routing, but don't think it's necessary. Now we just need to find someone on this forum who has access to a lathe/ workshop who wants to mass-produce some of this stuff. That guy's not me .

    @ Matte X.0: The way these guys have it set up, it should work on an RLC- when you take the blue lever off, there's still a bunch of space below to put in a bushing or Seger ring (though I don't totally understand how that one works).

  32. #132
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    Alshead unfortunately, I do not have pictures yet but the idea is really simple. Seger ring is placed under the Blue Fox lockout lever using special pliers. Elastic properties of seger ring cause it to block inside. Using these pliers can seger ring turn to set the spring force. Sieger ring has two holes one of them I use to attach the torsion spring whose other end is anchored in a hole made in ​​lockout lever.

  33. #133
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    Remote Lockout Fox RL-lockout.jpg

  34. #134
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    Can you provide links to places to buy the parts so we get the correct sizes, etc.?

  35. #135
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    Etch- thanks. The Seger ring you're showing has tabs on the outside, which makes more sense as to how you got it to stick inside the topcap. Thanks for showing that.

    Yourdaguy- he said earlier it was a 22mm Seger ring- now we just need some info on the spring...

  36. #136
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    Etch are you in the UK?

    If so if you've got spare equipment then I'd be happy to buy some off you- don't really have much time to fiddle but have got a RLC fork and your method seems to be the only one that could work with an RLC setup.

    Is there any chance you could test it on a RLC fork and that way I can know if its feasible to begin work on a setup.

    Cheers, Fram

  37. #137
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    Seger ring shown in Etch's picture is outer ring. He must have an internal diameter of around 13-14 mm. I applied the inner ring. He has an external diameter of 22 mm just like in this picture
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by robothack; 04-06-2011 at 12:22 PM.

  38. #138
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    Etch and Robothack- I don't mean to be difficult, but a picture of your internals would be worth a thousand threads. You guys are confusing- partly because there seems to be some bit of a language barrier.

    Robothack- what do you mean outer ring? You applied the inner ring? Where? really, just show us some pictures...

  39. #139
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    I mean that the seger inner (internal) ring is used inside the tube while the outer (external) ring, such as Etch, might apply to a cylinder. The real photo soon.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  40. #140
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    Is there any solution fo rlc/rlt shocks? I have one and it is really pain in the ass to reach down and turn the knob.

  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by lampee
    Is there any solution fo rlc/rlt shocks? I have one and it is really pain in the ass to reach down and turn the knob.

    +1

    I had a rockshox recon before with remote- and it is indeed a pain.

  42. #142
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    I don't see why a design like etch's - with the cable routed behind the fork- couldnt work on an rlc.

  43. #143
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    any news on the final versions alshead?

  44. #144
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    Deef- seriously. You started this thread in 2008 promising a product that nobody ever saw again, then you show up a month or so ago and say you've got something even better coming out, then you go quiet again. The masses are getting restless...

  45. #145
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    Absolutely, I'm really getting restless! Keep us in the loop man! Give us some sort of info!

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    ya, this is something we'll all need to just do ourselves I think, waiting is killing us but these guys are probably busy.... SO, I'm trying to get this done.. and I'll document part numbers used and URL to buy them on-line along with pictures of the build as it comes together - it's going on a Klein Palomino XX with Fox F120RL model year 2009.

    So far I have purchased:
    1) Manitou MILO remote parts (this is hard to fit on top of the fork leg, needs modification)
    2) A 22mm Seeger Ring (Snap Ring) that I need to see if it fits inside the shaft and doesn't spin
    3) 4 different variations of Torsion springs coming in the mail today that I'll need to modify

    I hope this works!!
    Last edited by fish2live; 04-21-2011 at 02:54 PM.

  47. #147
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    @fish2live- let us know how it goes and where you ordered your stuff from. I've tried finding Seeger rings locally and keep striking out.

  48. #148
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    I've bought everything so far from www.grainger.com. The 22mm Seeger (snap) ring had to be filed down a slight bit on the inner part (by the holes) as it was getting hung up in the slot for the small bearings used by the blue lockout ring. I don't have torsion springs yet, they are shipping from Granger and hope to see them today... and I'll need to see which one works (or not) and if I have to modify it. There is still quite a bit more work to do on this puppy...

    More to come as parts arrive but it will still be at least a week until I can get this rolling...

  49. #149
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    one torsion spring arrived yesterday, 3 others are back ordered, crap... its the right diameter for sure, so that's good.. but its too tall so I'll need to cut it in half about, then bend the ends vertical... it seems to have about the right torque now with about 10 coils, but with torsion springs the fewer the # of coils the stronger (more torque) it takes to turn them, so hopefully making this shorter, to about 4 coils, doesn't make it too hard to turn... trial and error I guess.. more to come..

  50. #150
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    Here is a photo from the complete new CNC 5-axis milled aluminum parts.
    Some other part like springs screw etc are not ready.
    The aluminum parts are getting at this moment nice colors by anodizing.

    You can also see the knob for the left side of the fox fork. So you dont need bleu parts on your bike from now!!


  51. #151
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    When I clicked on the link and saw the picture of the parts my face got a big smile on it. Since I have been on this thread since the beginning, can I be the first to order 2 sets?

  52. #152
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    You still can't be first because "deano machineo" is first and i am second ( i want 6 in blue).

  53. #153
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    Looks great Deef

    Made in Holland

    You got a PM via mountainbike.nl

    Hope to see the finished product soon

  54. #154
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    wow, that looks amazing - I'm giving up on my custom project now!!!!

    How much $ Deef?? will it include the cable and remote lever?

  55. #155
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    Very bling- love it. Same here- no need to proceed with my own project at this point- this looks great (as long as it's also affordable). I recently did the Internal Retaining Ring w/ Spring mod and it works great on my SS, but this would be perfect for my FS rig.

    1) I'd love to see it in action.
    2) What colors are going to be available?
    3) How much and what's included (and can you pick and choose sets?)
    4) Timeline?

    Nice work.

  56. #156
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    Wow! Those parts look great. Put me down for a few when they become available.

  57. #157
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    And now that you appear to have mastered this maybe you could consider work for a RLC!?

    LOOKS AMAZING!

  58. #158
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    I'm in too, just need some pricing and lead time information. It'd be great to get some action shots/video up regardless so the masses can see how well it works.
    "I applaud your stupid idea because it is genius." - Eric Sovern, Surly

  59. #159
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    Weight Deef parts 13.34 gram, poplockk 54.4 gram.








  60. #160
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    Love the logo on the level. Please start selling these!!!

  61. #161
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    I want to buy one set too...

  62. #162
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    Deef,
    The parts look exquisite! Like everyone else, how do I buy? Just ordered the TwinLock for it from Scott.

    Al,
    Thanks for keeping the dialogue going all these months since last December. You demonstrated that there is still a big demand. You did us all a great service when back then this thread had gone dead.

  63. #163
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    where do I sent my PayPal? How much?

  64. #164
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    Hello,
    there are at this moment 3 complete kits not yet reserved.
    The complete kit with poplock lever will cost 150,- euro (without shipping cost)
    The red knob will cost 20,- euro.

    If you want a kit, you can send a private message on this forum.
    I`ll send back an email when I reserve a kit for you.

    Thanks,
    Dave

  65. #165
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    ...
    Last edited by alshead; 05-22-2011 at 09:25 PM.

  66. #166
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    DIY Tutorial for Remote Lockout

    Okay- those parts are SCHWEEET! No doubt that's about the best solution we've seen yet. HOWEVER, the price is a little steep for this fella. 150 Euro is $213 US as of today and that's before shipping. I'm sure that they'll sell to a few, select, elite folks (the same guys who buy ti bolts for their water bottle cages), but I don't think it's going to reach a broad market. Fox used to sell a kit that was really nice for $150 and I thought that was too much...

    SOOOO- for anyone who's interested, I've put together a little DIY blog tutorial to help folks figure out/ get started on making your own lockout. You can do this for less than $50 and less than $10 if you have an old top-mount lever sitting around. If you've been following this thread, you know I was working on a solution earlier in the winter, but the system was having some problems (breaking) and we bailed on it. Many ideas in my current configuration are borrowed from other folks on this thread like Yourdaguy, Etch and Robothack (thanks, gents). My DIY tutorial is by no means the right way to do it, or the only way, but I wanted to put something together that would show the whole process and how it goes together.

    For some reason, I can't post a direct link to the blog, so go to www.alshub.com and in the upper right, click on the "DIY Fox Remote Lockout." There are some parts/ pieces that I haven't figured out (especially for RLC users), so I'm very open for suggestions and will change/ update the blog as necessary so we can have a DIY tutorial that will really work for folks.

    Enjoy!

  67. #167
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    Anyone understand how Deef's spring system works internally? I can't make hide nor hair of how it secures inside...

  68. #168
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    alshead. Why not use a small spring about 2" long between the cable housing stop and the lock-out lever. A spring type like the one you used to cut your spring out of only smaller in diamater. I am using a Fox lock-out lever on the handlebars and it has an automatic stop, once you push the lever. If the spring i sugested works, it will try to close the gap between the cable stop and the lock-out lever. What do you think?

  69. #169
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    @ Doralswheels: It's an awesome idea. If you go back to page 2 of this thread, you'll see that I was playing with lots of ideas/ setups for a few months last winter. I had a setup that was exactly what you're talking about- I had a compression spring (slid over the cable) between the cable stop and lever. There were a few problems with this- the most problematic is that, as the forks come from the factory, there is sometimes a bit of "stiction" when the lockout lever is pulled/pushed into the lockout position with some force (essentially, the little washer/ seal that creates the lockout by sealing off ports at the bottom of the damper builds up surface tension, and therefore needs some pressure to release- lots of places [PUSH, really good shops, etc] will actually take a super light sandpaper and wetsand the surface of this seal so that it breaks that tension easier)- so... the spring has to be pretty strong, while at the same time being small, able to compress/ extend enough to push the lever 90 degrees, not buckle on compression, nimble enough to curve naturally around the lever without binding the cable with friction, and not break/ move the cable stop (in whatever form). This can definitely be done, but I did not find that the spring with that magic combination in my tooling around. The torsion spring works great has the bonus of being a little more elegant. If you look at some of the solutions by others on youtube, you'll see some that are like what you're describing- some with a rubber-ish compression system of some sort. I think those are also compelling, but I don't know where to get those pieces/ parts (e.g., http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzkdN...eature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t09yk2jMIOM&NR=1). If we can find where to buy that stuff or what to tell people to look for, I'll include it in the tutorial as another option.

    I have no interest in my way being the right way, I just want to share some ideas and come up with some relatively simple and relatively cheap (<$50? <$100?), but effective and reliable, possibly even elegant(?) solutions. $150 is too much to spend ($200 even moreso) when we could collectively come up with something that does it all and doesn't look like you just JB Welded or zip-tied a bunch of crap to your fork. Even better if it doesn't require too much technical expertise (which is what we were shooting for with our design- a "snap-on" setup of sorts.

    Keep the ideas and the info coming.

  70. #170
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    I'm new to biking. I have was wondering if you had anything for a rockshox dart 3, or if anyone else makes something for it. Any ideas would be great. Thanks

  71. #171
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    I have a virtually no cost solution that has been working perfectly for over a week. I will post pictures later. Deef's stuff is nice, but it is too nice and costs way too much. Alshead has some good ideas, but the parts sourcing is sketchy. I wish Alshead would go into production on the plastic parts he had. They should be reasonably priced and work fine.

  72. #172
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    Just some double stick clear mounting tape on the top of the crown and 3 zip ties, a spring, and a used cable end.

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-niner-fleet-pictures-030.jpg
    Remote Lockout Fox RL-niner-fleet-pictures-031.jpg
    Remote Lockout Fox RL-niner-fleet-pictures-035.jpg

    The double stick mounting tape seems to grip harder over time so I am not expecting any problems with this setup long term. Not all that pretty, but not that ugly either considering this is my commuter bike.

    The real good news about this solution is that it will work equally well for my RLC which is my next project as soon as I find another spring similar to this one I had laying around.

  73. #173
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    Just a follow up note. I have one of those 3rd hand tools that really gets the zip ties tight. If I didn't have one of these, I don't know if the zip ties would be tight enough to hold. Also, I obviously drilled the end of the blue Fox lever in order to pass the cable through. The cable housing is the stock cable that came with the pop-lock and has a fairly substantial metal end on it that is most of an inch long. I put the cable housing on the tape and put 2 very tight zip ties on it with the 3rd hand. I then depressed the pop-lock and moved the lever to the lockout position with the spring on the cable. I drilled the end out of the aluminum cable crimp thingy so the cable could slide through.

    With the lever in the lockout position and the pop-lock depressed and the spring compressed, I pulled all the slack out of the cable and crimped the aluminum dohicky a few times and then cut the cable at the end of the dohicky with my trusty Park cable cutter. This done, there was enough slack that the fork would not lock out completely. I was able to pull very hard on the cable housing to move it slightly to the perfect position so that everything worked just right. I then put a 3rd zip tie over the other 2 again with a 3rd hand tool to totally lock down the position.

  74. #174
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    Now thats amazing^^ KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID never fit so well. That should work no problem on my RLC, but I got another idea. 3M makes this extremely strong "velcro lock" stuff I seen/used when I bought an ipass, when I lived in IL. The sticky side was super strong on the window/ipass device, as well as the "velcro" part stuck together amazingly well. A cable guide on the top sticky end might make it a lil cleaner looking, but with basically the same design. Great job, yourdaman!

  75. #175
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    I actually have some of the velcro you are talking about and for this application I feel the stuff I used works better and is less noticeable since it is clear. However, the velcro would probably work too. I rode around the driveway tonight and set and released it 50-75 times and it still works great.

  76. #176
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    They make the 3M Dual-lock in clear, and they have a bunch of different levels of stiction for bothe the "velcro" side and the sticky tape side. I'm gonna machine a small piece of aluminum for the cable clamp. I THINK the Dual-lock will hold the aluminum better then regular 2 sided sticky tape. So basically dual-lock stuck to the fork, then the aluminum cable clamp on that. I think it'll be pretty clean looking. I need a poploc though. U think the adjustable one would help with fine tuning? I'm not too sure it would...?

  77. #177
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    This is great, guys- yourdaguy- you definitely have a simple solution. I had something very similar setup, but after about 2-3 weeks on the trail (again, on pretty abusive, rocky mountain trails- not commuting), the cable started to slip all the time- when you described that there was too much slack in the cable and then you pulled the housing back and it's been better- that was the problem I started to have EVERY ride (if not several times). It's a decent patchwork solution, but for bumpy terrain, I think it'll start to have issues over time. I love the simplicity, but there's also no adjustability for cable stretch and the like (e.g., housing often beds into the cable ferrules over time, requiring adjustment). The other issue I had with this exact same setup was the spring. If I had a spring that was strong enough to push the lever back, it was so strong when compressed that it was moving that housing just enough to change the slack in the cable and make the system not work. Maybe you found a spring with the "magic spot" tension, but I didn't.

    Not sure what you mean by the parts sourcing is sketchy- other than the cable stop piece, everything was from a hardware or automotive store. I wish our plastic stuff was good enough to sell, but we just had too many problems with the setups we tried and I didn't want to sell you guys some stuff only to have it break a few weeks later. I now have a new baby and no time to spend on this project, but maybe I'll try to find a machinist to do something with it next winter...

  78. #178
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    oh yeah- and, again, SOME fox forks are pretty sticky in the initial release from lockout. The seal on the damper gets a little stiction and needs a good deal of force to release- not all forks, but some- mine happened to be one, and that's part of why I needed a pretty strong spring to make it work...

  79. #179
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    Can anyone make sense of how Deef's system works internally? There appears to be a ring that sits down in the shaft and has a spring attached to the lockout cap, but I can't tell how it secures in place internally... thinking about talking to a machinist and finding out what this wold cost to develop...

  80. #180
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    Alshead, the unavailability of the plastic piece was what I was referring to in the "sketchy parts" remark. In my comments, I stressed the need for a 3rd hand tool. Mine is so tight that I can (and have) jerked on it pretty hard with no movement. As low pressure as my system is, I don't foresee much stretch. If it does stretch, there is actually extra length in the released cable that it would take an even longer spring to push out to. If I need to, I can put a small piece of a cut crimp thingy between the current one and the Fox lever taking up any slack. I was worried about reliability too and that is why I tested it and tried to be hard on it for a week before I posted it. I would bet money this will function reliably for a long time. I am the lucky one, my Fox lever takes very little pressure to move. I also have an RLC which I am going to do this to pending a spring.

  81. #181
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    Deef's part fits around the 6 sides of the head cap and there is a screw to clamp it down. You can see the screw below the cable stop. The cable stop only has to stop the cable housing because the positive pressure of the cable will hold it against the cable stop. It is like a cable stop seat clamp that some use on cross bikes.

  82. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Alshead, the unavailability of the plastic piece was what I was referring to in the "sketchy parts" remark. In my comments, I stressed the need for a 3rd hand tool. Mine is so tight that I can (and have) jerked on it pretty hard with no movement. As low pressure as my system is, I don't foresee much stretch. If it does stretch, there is actually extra length in the released cable that it would take an even longer spring to push out to. If I need to, I can put a small piece of a cut crimp thingy between the current one and the Fox lever taking up any slack. I was worried about reliability too and that is why I tested it and tried to be hard on it for a week before I posted it. I would bet money this will function reliably for a long time. I am the lucky one, my Fox lever takes very little pressure to move. I also have an RLC which I am going to do this to pending a spring.
    Awesome. Your setup definitely worked better than my similar one. And I agree about the sketchiness of the cable stop piece- it's not a great solution which is why we never really sold them or pursued that project further
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  83. #183
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    Alshead, u still have those poplocs for sale?

  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Deef's part fits around the 6 sides of the head cap and there is a screw to clamp it down. You can see the screw below the cable stop. The cable stop only has to stop the cable housing because the positive pressure of the cable will hold it against the cable stop. It is like a cable stop seat clamp that some use on cross bikes.
    That part I get. What I don't understand is the spring system. There are round pieces w grooves and screw holes that look like they sit down inside the fork assembly - like where the internal retaining ring and spring are in my setup - but I dint understand how it stays in place...
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  85. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gokart2 View Post
    Alshead, u still have those poplocs for sale?
    No sir. Yourdaguy bought em a while back
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  86. #186
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    I believe he has a circular spring inside the cap since his cap is bigger than stock.

  87. #187
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    Has anyone heard from Deef regarding his kits? He isn't responding to his PMs for several months. Alshead, for us non technical guys have you decided to not create your kits?

  88. #188
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    Read the thread. Deef made exactly 4 kits and sold them for over $200 each.

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    So yourdaguy, how have you been corresponding with him? For us non technical people there doesn't seem to be many alternatives.

  90. #190
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    I haven't been corresponding with him. I am not a technical person as far as making parts. I am just an improviser.

    My method requires not a single part be made. Buy a pop-lock, zip ties, mounting tape, a spring and a cable thingie.

    Tools: small drill bit, drill, cable cutter, 3rd hand tool, blade or scissors to cut the tape.

    I realize that not everyone has a 3rd hand tool or a cable cutter, but if you can't borrow them then possibly a buddy or a bike shop could do the actual labor. Maybe the next time you are at the trail, you can bring a picture and try to talk some of your buddies into helping you.

    I am not selling anything, I am just a problem solver. I waited over 2 years on Deef to come up with a solution and when he didn't solve my problem, I solved it myself. I think Deef's parts are really nice and would be very happy to buy them at a reasonable price, but they are not available so we have to improvise.

  91. #191
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    Interest is high

    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    I believe he has a circular spring inside the cap since his cap is bigger than stock.
    I don't know if I'm being dense, but I still don't get it. There are four parts shown in the picture. One is a topcap for the air side, another is a cable stop (that can't be used on an RLC/ RLT), then there's a lockout lever- this replaces the blue lockout lever- then there's a fourth piece- I assume this is some sort of anchor for the spring, but I don't understand what it secures to and how it "anchors". I'm trying to figure this out because I might put some more effort into designing something that doesn't cost $200+.

    Quote Originally Posted by hsolorza View Post
    Has anyone heard from Deef regarding his kits? He isn't responding to his PMs for several months. Alshead, for us non technical guys have you decided to not create your kits?
    We bailed on our kits- the plastic that they were being made out of is super light and pretty strong, but simply not strong enough. We might still try to pursue something and I'll keep folks posted- there is obviously some interest and demand- if we could put something out for sub $60, seems like it could be a great solution... we'll see. Anyone know any machinists?

    Quote Originally Posted by hsolorza View Post
    So yourdaguy, how have you been corresponding with him? For us non technical people there doesn't seem to be many alternatives.
    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    I haven't been corresponding with him. I am not a technical person as far as making parts. I am just an improviser.

    My method requires not a single part be made. Buy a pop-lock, zip ties, mounting tape, a spring and a cable thingie.

    Tools: small drill bit, drill, cable cutter, 3rd hand tool, blade or scissors to cut the tape.

    I realize that not everyone has a 3rd hand tool or a cable cutter, but if you can't borrow them then possibly a buddy or a bike shop could do the actual labor. Maybe the next time you are at the trail, you can bring a picture and try to talk some of your buddies into helping you.

    I am not selling anything, I am just a problem solver. I waited over 2 years on Deef to come up with a solution and when he didn't solve my problem, I solved it myself. I think Deef's parts are really nice and would be very happy to buy them at a reasonable price, but they are not available so we have to improvise.
    FWIW- I was in touch with Deef for a couple of PM's about 5 weeks ago (May 7th)- I offered to do some distribution for him in the US- he could sell me 5-10 at a discounted price and I would sell them here, etc-- that was before he put a price tag on them- He said he sold his kits in Holland, so I'm sure SOME would sell here, but not likely to many on this forum . I know it's too rich for my blood.

    I like yourdaguy's solution- simple, effective, cheap.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Remote Lockout Fox RL-deef2.jpg  

    Last edited by alshead; 06-17-2011 at 08:34 AM. Reason: add picture

  92. #192
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    Deefs topcap appears to be taller than the stock one in the installed pictures. My guess is that that piece on the left sits under the top cap and holds the tension on a spring by securing to the fork cap below. Then the top cap and rebound adjuster are installed over it after preloading the spring.

    I would pay $60 for Deefs parts, but that is not an option. I guess the main advantage my system has other than price and availability, is that it will work for an RLC too.

  93. #193
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    I'm thick

    Okay- but HOW does it "secure to the fork cap below"? I'm not trying to be difficult, I truly just don't understand. There's nothing there to secure it to. There is a cylinder inside the hole, and nothing to secure it to... here's a picture of my internal retaining ring installed, but it shoes the inside of the topcap after the blue lockout lever and rebound knob are removed...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Remote Lockout Fox RL-retaining-ring-.jpg  


  94. #194
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    Where you have your circlip, he has that piece. The topcap spins the brass colored part (the outer six sided part of it) and the red rebound adjuster spins the 2 flat sided part in the very center. The top cap has little bearings that run on the circle just outside the brass colored parts. That circle and all the rest is fixed. I hope you can generate some parts, because it would be nice if even the non-technical guys could do this.

  95. #195
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    Now I'm just laughing. Yes, I get that his piece goes where my circlip goes and I understand how the internals work... what I don't understand is HOW his piece anchors inside of there. See, the whole point of the circlip is to anchor the spring- as far as I can tell, if that's how his worked, it would just spin. How does it keep from spinning?

  96. #196
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    It looks like it is tapped for screws. The screws probably brace against the other metal parts in some manner.

  97. #197
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    Here's what I came up with. Thanks to those that have been working on this topic for a while, I took a lot of the information found from this thread. I based my setup off the Fox/Shimano lever from the RP2 rear shock system. It doesn't pull/release that much cable (only about 1/4 inch) but I found that's all the fork lockout lever needs to release. I original started with a spring to put pressure on the lever to release, but found a piece of surgical tubing to work way better. Don't get any spring binding anymore. The bracket I fabricated with a strip of aluminum and added a little cable stop from the bike shop to hold the cable in place. Painted it black for aesthetics.





  98. #198
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    Good job 103!.

    Just a few follow up notes. I drilled the first lever on the shock and I did my RLC yesterday and decided to drill it off the shock. One of those little ball bearings fell out and I spent 30 minutes looking for it. If you take the blue lever off, be very careful not to lose any of the bearings. Also, if you do take it off, I used a small dab of grease to hold the bearings in place and when I reattached it, it seemed to be silky smooth.

    Also, I think I forgot to mention both of my blue levers are rotated one position in a clockwise direction from stock. In other words, my lever closes at the 7:00 o'clock position looking down from the bike. If you notice 103's pictures, that is the stock closing position 5:00 o'clock. This works without binding from the front position I am coming from. 103 solved the problem by coming from the rear. His solution is tidier looking but does require minimal fabrication.

    Also, the pop-locks that alshead sold me were one left and one right. I have now used both of them and can verify that either position works with the stock cables on my medium Niners. Taller riders might need to have slightly longer cables in order not the have a lot bend. The one on the RLC has a slightly shorter, stronger spring and it is perfect. The original one on the RL works great, I am just saying there is a difference of springs and if yours is not working to your satisfaction, you might try a different spring. The one I likes was aprox. 1.5" long .2" diam. and fairly strong.

  99. #199
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    Nice work 103! Where did you get the strip if aluminum? I also realized one could use a star (more permanent) or compression nut (from a headset) to use as a plug for the bottom cable routing/ stop. Is that just standard surgical tubing? I tried some anklet rubber tubing when we were playing with different options, but it would bind and catch on the cable... Looks like the regular sized stuff would've done the trick. Bet you can get it in black .

    Yourdaguy- where'd you get your springs?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  100. #200
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    My local Ace Hardware has boxes of various size springs. I am certain I could find one like the ones I used, but I actually scrounged mine up from my work bench. I have bought similar springs at Ace in the past and if I had to do another one, I would have total confidence finding what I need there. Take you micrometer and get a spring that is 1.5" long and .2" diameter and fairly strong. The springs at Ace are rated by 3 numbers. The first is the length: you want inch and a half. The second is the diameter usually in 64ths or an inch: you want around 13/64 ths or slightly smaller. The 3rd number is the strength, I am not sure if it is in newtons, inch pounds or what, but go for a number around 30-35 or it might be .3-.35 I can't remember. Higher is stronger so just go for a number that starts with a 3.

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