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  1. #1
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    Recommend a fork to upgrade Trek 4300

    The fork (RST Gila T8, 100mm travel) on my Trek 4300 disc (I think it's a 2008) has finally died. I need suggestions on a replacement. I do mostly XC riding. Obivously I don't want to spend a ton on this bike, but I do want something better!! Thanks a million.

  2. #2
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    Yes. I am a beginner. And the 4300 is not an exciting bike. But I do need help. If no suggestions on particular forks. Than what features should I look for. I am hoping to stay in the low $200's or less.

  3. #3
    Fat-tired Roadie
    Reputation: AndrwSwitch's Avatar
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    For that price, either EBay or a rigid fork from your shop.

    People like the Tora as a budget but well-performing fork. One of the ones with the Motion Control damper. I have a different fork myself. Your best bet is to see what's available first, and then read the reviews and decide if it's a good risk.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  4. #4
    usually cranky
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    tora with moco. cheapest "real" fork.

  5. #5
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    OK. I've decided I'll spend anywhere under $300. I keep going back to the Tora 318. What specs/dimensions do I need to check to ensure that a particular fork is compatible with my bike? Even considering just the 318 it seems there is a wide variety of "options" to choose from. PopLoc etc. Remote lockout. Motion Control. U-turn. Can someone explain some of the terminology? It seems to me that the black colored ones are for disc brakes only and the white colored forks are compatible with either brake type. Correct? Do I need to stay with a fork with the same amount of travel that my bike came stock with?

    Thanks

  6. #6
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    Yes it is best to stay with the "fork travel" that was on the bike originally. A longer fork will make the bike handle slower ie make it like a chopper good in a straight line. Having said that many people seem to add about 20mm of travel and still be happy (from what i have read)

  7. #7
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    Biggest thing you want is the 32mm stanchions and some form of control of the dampening system - in your price range that'll most likely be Turn Key. To keep the weight down you'd want alloy stanchions, but highly doubt you'll find that under $300 on a new model fork, but you never know, you could find soemthing on fleabay.

    318 is a good fork and would be a night and day improvement over the RST that was on there before.
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  8. #8
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehinrj01
    OK. I've decided I'll spend anywhere under $300. I keep going back to the Tora 318. What specs/dimensions do I need to check to ensure that a particular fork is compatible with my bike? Even considering just the 318 it seems there is a wide variety of "options" to choose from. PopLoc etc. Remote lockout. Motion Control. U-turn. Can someone explain some of the terminology? It seems to me that the black colored ones are for disc brakes only and the white colored forks are compatible with either brake type. Correct? Do I need to stay with a fork with the same amount of travel that my bike came stock with?

    Thanks
    Rock Shox has a pretty long list of technologies that are in their forks, and it seems to get longer every year. Their site goes through all of them.

    http://www.sram.com/rockshox/technologies
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  9. #9
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    In the 318 should I get spring or air? What are the pros and cons?

  10. #10
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    How about this

    http://www.ecrater.com/p/3935060/roc...urn-2009-130mm

    It seems like a great deal. Am I missing something?

  11. #11
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    Where does the Tora SL fall in the Tora lineup. I can't find anything about it.

    I found this

    http://cgi.ebay.com/10-RockShox-Tora...ht_4528wt_1137

  12. #12
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    I put a Tora 302 on my 4300 and love it. I payed $120 for it on ebay Lake sales I think was the name of the seller. You will also need to pick up a star nut and remove the bottom race from the rst fork ( I used a small screwdriver to get it off) hind sight I would have bought a new headset along with the shock. If your under 200 lbs I would stay with a spring If over go with the air.

  13. #13
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    What you meant was...COIL or AIR as both are springs. Coil will of course be heavier than an air sprung and air sprung is infinitely more versatile depending on rider wight without needing to go in and change the actual coil spring.

    Quote Originally Posted by ehinrj01
    In the 318 should I get spring or air? What are the pros and cons?
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  14. #14
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    09 Ventana El Bastardo 650b
    10 Banshee Viento

  15. #15
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    I have a 09 Fox Vanilla 140 on my Komodo (coil) and a 10 Fox F series 100 (air) on my Banshee and I like the feel of the coil better.I always had coil till recently.I had very bad luck with Rockshox.My Tora 302 went in for service twice in three months and still was not right Gave up on it and bought a Recon that lasted about as long.The best Rock Shox I had was the Dart three my old Trek4500came with.Bit the bullit got Fox and have had no issues in two years.I was useing a 02 Fox Vanilla the last year on my Trek and it rode alot better than the 08 Tora and 08 Recon.
    09 Ventana El Bastardo 650b
    10 Banshee Viento

  16. #16
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    I personally wouldn't put a 120mm fork on an XC frame designed for an 80mm fork, most I might do is 100mm. All kinds of things can start happening, from having issues climbing because the front is too tall, to actually, physically stressing the headtube and possible frame failure.

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  17. #17
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    If I was setting up a Hardrock or a Trek 4-series for messing around in a bike park, I wouldn't give a longer fork a second thought. Well, maybe I'd think briefly, "There goes the warranty."

    If you want to use it for trail riding, though, it's better to be a little more conservative IMHO. At least get a fork that can be dialed down to whatever travel the OEM fork had.

    A friend of mine did actually buckle his down tube running too big a fork back in 2000, but people don't generally report any problems going up 20mm from the OEM size in terms of frame failure on an entry-level hardtail. Bigger increases in size and race-light frames may be a different story. However, people have reported problems with a size increase ruining the handling.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  18. #18
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    I used a 08 Trek 4500 woth a 130 shock with no issues for a year.Fit the geo fine.Same basic geo as the 4300.120 is no prob.
    09 Ventana El Bastardo 650b
    10 Banshee Viento

  19. #19
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    It seems like the consensus is the Toro 318 for poor folks like me

  20. #20
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    Oops Toro, Tora...whatever.

  21. #21
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    If the original fork was a 100mm then yes a 120 prob wouldn't be bad, but it would slacken out the head angle by about 1 degree. Checking the trek site I see that the 4300s are coming with 100mm forks now, when did they change the travel from 80mm?
    Quote Originally Posted by Moodrid
    I used a 08 Trek 4500 woth a 130 shock with no issues for a year.Fit the geo fine.Same basic geo as the 4300.120 is no prob.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  22. #22
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    Regarding U-turn: Is the travel continuously variable...or is there a certain number of settings to choose from?

  23. #23
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    Does the u-turn dial in 10mm increments or something?

  24. #24
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    sram.com has manuals for all RockShox products. You should be able to find out there.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  25. #25
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    dood...stop worrying about "u-turn" if yer just a casual rider!!! AND especially if yer in Indiana man!!! the terrain can't be changing THAT much out by you, that you need extra travel on the go.

    also...your fork can't be dead man!!! **** I have a 1999 manitou sx fork still running strong on my 2nd Trek 8000.

    SAVE YOUR MONEY FOR A BETTER BIKE WORTH UPGRADING!!!

    JUST EFFIN RIDE IT BRAH!!!!

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