Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 36
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    236

    rear shock major screw-up: HELP PLEASE!

    So I wanted to replace my Fox RP23 rear shock. After letting out the air, I unscrewed the front joint (sorry if the terminology is incorrect - I am no native speaker), which went fine (picture 1).

    When I tried to unscrew the back joint, the left side yielded a relatively short screw (picture 4). The right side, however, did not bulge (picture 3). Now it appears that I have damaged the screw and cannot unscrew it any longer!

    This is very depressing! On the other hand, in the front the right side was not really a screw, but simply a hollow bar with a thread inside (picture 5). Hence I was wondering whether maybe I can simply hammer it out from the other side. Can somebody give me some advice? I am rather desperate!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails rear shock major screw-up: HELP PLEASE!-2012-12-29-11.18.43-copy.jpg  

    rear shock major screw-up: HELP PLEASE!-2012-12-29-11.18.39-copy.jpg  

    rear shock major screw-up: HELP PLEASE!-2012-12-29-11.18.24-copy.jpg  

    rear shock major screw-up: HELP PLEASE!-2012-12-29-11.18.06-copy.jpg  

    rear shock major screw-up: HELP PLEASE!-2012-12-29-11.17.41-copy.jpg  

    Last edited by adriano; 12-29-2012 at 02:58 AM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    236
    I have uploaded a few more pictures to make it clear where the problem is.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    236
    Might it help to heat up the whole contraption with a hot-air pistol?

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Kiwiplague's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    1,132
    Was it a hex head bolt or torx? Hard to tell, but it looks like you stripped the head out? Does the bolt turn freely at all? if it does, you may be able to tap it out from the other side with something long and thin. If it won't turn, you can use a hacksaw (carefully) to cut a groove in the head of the bolt and use a flat head screwdriver to try and remove it.

    Also, looking at the state of the shock etc, you may want to clean your bike before you start dismantling it, take it from me, it make the job a lot easier.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    17
    Try threading in the short screw partially and tap on it to drive the bolt on the other side out.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    236
    Thanks Kiwi. It does not move at all! My hope is that the part with the damaged screwhead is identical to the "long thing" on the upper side of Figure 5 (I don't know how to call it. A bolt?). If so, it may be stuck but it should be pushable with some patience. Is it reasonable to expect a bolt there as well?

    I tried to insert a metal spike from the other side and hit it with a rubberhead hammer - but it didn't move out. However, I didn't push things too hard since I did not want to destroy the whole frame.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by sxross View Post
    Try threading in the short screw partially and tap on it to drive the bolt on the other side out.
    Done that, to no avail - but maybe too lightly. It should be a bolt with an inner thread on the other side, right? It cannot really be another screw? In the latter case I would be "screwed"...

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Kiwiplague's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    1,132
    If the bolt is the same as the one in pic 4, you should be able to hit it out then, you may have to use a little bit more force. You won't damage the frame unless you go really overboard with the hammering.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwiplague View Post
    If the bolt is the same as the one in pic 4, you should be able to hit it out then, you may have to use a little bit more force. You won't damage the frame unless you go really overboard with the hammering.
    That's what I thought, but I am really worried and disconcerted that it does not move. From your experience with shocks, would the rear side be attached to the frame in the same was as the front side? My worry is that maybe the rear side features something else, like a central barrel with two threads on both sides - what do I know. Although that woudln't make any sense... Sorry for rambling - I am really a bit nervous, it's weekend and great weather outside and I want to get my bike back into shape!

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Kiwiplague's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    1,132
    Usually they should be the same. No matter how nice the weather is, if you think you will damage your bike further, don't do any more to it, take it to a bike shop on monday and get them to look at it. One weekend of no biking is better than no biking at all because of a broken bike.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  11. #11
    Owner Epic Biking
    Reputation: mtbeagle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    164
    I would expect the rear bolt to be similar to the front. It looks like there is a fair amount of corrosion which is probably causing things to stick. Like Sxross said, thread the bolt part way in and tap it out.
    www.epicbiking.com
    Biked to the South Pole, check it out at:
    GoFundMe
    blog
    Facebook page

  12. #12
    High Gravity Haze
    Reputation: Spec7's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Posts
    411
    At this point with the head of the sleeve bolt trashed, don't try to "save" the bolt from further damage; you're going to have to replace it anyway. So you'll need to either clean it up and reassemble in order to ride this weekend then take it to the shop the next time you can or knock that sleeve out and find something else to do until you get a new sleeve and bolt.

    Scrub the shock body eyelets out before you reassemble with the new bolt. I'd say you have some lovely oxidation in there helping bond the bolt sleeve to the body eyelets.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    236
    Thank you everybody. I appreciate the prompt community help across 16 time zones, from New Zealand to Tennessee (I am in Switzerland). This is why the Internet was invented!!!

    Turns out that I can ride the bike after all. The shock is not (yet) broken, so I just put the left screw back in place, pump up the shock and be done for a while. The primary reason for this whole action was to measure the bushings in order to replace them with the wonderful Huber bushings. This will have to wait though.

    I agree with you that corrosion/oxidation is the most likely reason for the bolt being glued to the eyelets. At least now I know that there is a problem there. My incredibly talented bike shop guy is out until Jan 8th (good for him), but I believe that I can bear until then...

  14. #14
    MTBR Member
    Reputation: ncfisherman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,802
    When you replace that sleeve bolt, make sure to lightly grease or anti-seize the "sleeve".

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    236
    So, I removed the entire big enchilada, with the shock and its "receiver" (apparently called the "link") from which it cannot be separated. I am soaking the screw receptacle with WD-40, and will let it stand overnight - and hope for the best...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails rear shock major screw-up: HELP PLEASE!-2012-12-29-16.51.29-copy.jpg  

    Last edited by adriano; 12-29-2012 at 08:39 AM.

  16. #16
    The Bubble Wrap Hysteria
    Reputation: mtnbiker4life's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    3,221
    It appears the reducer and the pin/bolt have fused together via galvanic corrosion. I can tell you right now that DW40 is not going to help. The only method is the mechanically break that corrosive bond. Get a hugh hammer and a punch the same diameter or if you have a press that would be easier. The bad guy in this is those Fox Hat Style reducers......they are not anodized and aluminum oxidizes/corrodes no matter what material the fastener is made from.

    Too all those still user the Fox Hat Style reducers.....toss them in the garbage.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    7,022
    Quote Originally Posted by adriano View Post
    So, I removed the entire big enchilada, with the shock and its "receiver" (apparently called the "link") from which it cannot be separated. I am soaking the screw receptacle with WD-40, and will let it stand overnight - and hope for the best...
    Same thing happened to a friends bike. He removed the shock and rocker plates as you have done. He took a block of wood and drilled a 7/16" hole (allow for shock bolt to pass thru) and then place the rocker assembly on its side - took a hammer and punch and drove the bolt out (a press and arbor might have been nicer). It was very important to support the lower plate or it might have cracked.
    Last edited by keen; 12-29-2012 at 10:52 AM.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    236
    thank you so much friends! Now, can you tell me what kind of press I should get? Like could you google some images and share the links with me? Sorry for being a nag - I am quite inexperienced when it comes to mechanics as you have already realized (molecular biology is another matter, there I wouldn't need any handholding...)

  19. #19
    The Bubble Wrap Hysteria
    Reputation: mtnbiker4life's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    3,221
    Quote Originally Posted by adriano View Post
    thank you so much friends! Now, can you tell me what kind of press I should get? Like could you google some images and share the links with me? Sorry for being a nag - I am quite inexperienced when it comes to mechanics as you have already realized (molecular biology is another matter, there I wouldn't need any handholding...)
    just google search these terms: Mechanical Arbor Press Or I am sure any good shop will have a press.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    3,297
    If you put the allen key in a vise, *edit can you leverage the shock or rocker plate free?
    Last edited by Deerhill; 12-29-2012 at 10:38 AM.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    236
    tried everything, including vise and hammering again - but no luck. The darn thing is soldered fast. Oh well, I will get a press (turns out that it's not expensive), but for good measure I will buy a new "shock link".

    Anybody knows whether this link is what I need for a Cannondale Rize 1 carbon? It says "Rize 130" but I am not sure if it's the same thing. At 60$ it is annoying but bearable...

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    321
    When I am working on cars motorsports or mountain bikes and something strips I use a Drexel with a cutting disc and cut a slit in the head of the bolt take my flat head and a hammer put the flat head in and hack the screw driver a few times and try to turn if that doesn't work. Not sure which screwdrivers you have but my snap on ones can use a wrench on it as we'll to add more leverage to budge the bolt out

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by shreddin22 View Post
    When I am working on cars motorsports or mountain bikes and something strips I use a Drexel with a cutting disc and cut a slit in the head of the bolt take my flat head and a hammer put the flat head in and hack the screw driver a few times and try to turn if that doesn't work. Not sure which screwdrivers you have but my snap on ones can use a wrench on it as we'll to add more leverage to budge the bolt out
    That's a cool technology - thanx! It will be my "Plan B".

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    3,297
    Use your vise and a socket as a press

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    265
    an impact driver tool like this might help you break it free. cut a slot in the bolt and use the slot head bit to try and spin the bolt. bonus is you get to wail on it with a hammer!

    Last edited by FullMonty; 12-29-2012 at 08:42 PM.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •