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  1. #1
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    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME

    An unsolicited endorsement for a great (so far) product: RWC Needle bearing kit. (RWC SHOCK EYE NEEDLE BEARING KITS, 6MM & 8MM)

    The premise: The bushings used in shock eyelets are really tight and draggy. If you have a bike design with a shock that's actuated via a rocker link, the link has to rotate in your shock eyelet every time you suspension cycles. Replacing the draggy bushing with a nice smooth needle bearing gives you a more active, smoother suspension.

    I was skeptical of this, but saw rave reviews over on the Evil board so I installed this $30 kit on my Following. It has exceeded my expectations in every way. Suspension is much more active, and responds to small bumps much much better. You can actually see this in action just looking down at the shock as you ride: it moves and cycles much more quickly over chatter than before.

    Seriously, if you have a bike with a rocker-activated shock (so Santa Cruz, Giant, Trek to name a few) get this kit.

  2. #2
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    Just ordered one for my following after reading the thread over on the evil forum. Can't wait to see the difference.

  3. #3
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    I had one my Trance X, it definitely was smoother/easier to move but you need to keep up with the maintenance. Pull out the needles, clean everything with alcohol then re-grease every few months.

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    I have nothing but good things to say about RWC and their product. They were eager to answer questions before ordering, shipping was very fast and reasonable and the needle bearing kit did exactly what they said it would do. Small bump compliance was noticeably improved, as was the over all liveliness of the rear suspension.

    Yes, its slightly more maintenance every couple of months or so. We are talking about a few minutes here. I just added it to my air can clean and re lube cycle I did every 60 days. No big deal.

    I have a new frame now, and will be ordering a RWC kit for it shortly.

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys. We have worked hard on perfecting these kits over the years and feel we really have them dialed now. Your feedback is always appreciated.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    Thanks guys. We have worked hard on perfecting these kits over the years and feel we really have them dialed now. Your feedback is always appreciated.
    can you link me to the kit id need for a 2014 giant trance?
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by obs08 View Post
    can you link me to the kit id need for a 2014 giant trance?
    Same request but for Evil Following. On my way out the door and don't want to forget to search the Evil forum when I get back but I'll get the email notification for replies this thread... Thanks.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Same request but for Evil Following. On my way out the door and don't want to forget to search the Evil forum when I get back but I'll get the email notification for replies this thread... Thanks.
    The Following uses NBKRWC2185. The top end of the shock inside the DELTA Link has lots of rotation and the kit will make a big difference for you. The lower shock eyelet also has some rotation inside it, although considerably less. Most report the best results from changing both ends on that particular frame. If you want to do both ends, you will need two kits (same kit for each end).

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by obs08 View Post
    can you link me to the kit id need for a 2014 giant trance?
    Almost all the Giant frames use the NBKRWC2185 kit. However, right around 2015 many of the frames started shipping with bearings mounted in the rocker arm on opposite sides of the shock. If you don't have bearings under the shock bolt, you will need our needle bearing kit. If you do have bearings under the shock bolt, it would be redundant to add one of our kits. For the Maestro frames you can only change the top end of the shock. The bottom has a 15mm thru-pin.

    Oh, and the link: RWC SHOCK EYE NEEDLE BEARING KITS, 6MM & 8MM

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    The Following uses NBKRWC2185. The top end of the shock inside the DELTA Link has lots of rotation and the kit will make a big difference for you. The lower shock eyelet also has some rotation inside it, although considerably less. Most report the best results from changing both ends on that particular frame. If you want to do both ends, you will need two kits (same kit for each end).
    Just to be abundantly clear, so it's about $35 for just the upper eyelet or about $70 for both and I need a ~$20 tool?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Just to be abundantly clear, so it's about $35 for just the upper eyelet or about $70 for both and I need a ~$20 tool?
    Yes. Although the tools are a bit more than that. Depending upon what you have handy and your mechanical ability, you can improvise and skip the tools, but there is some risk of getting the needle bearing cup mashed. Not cheap, but guaranteed to be worth it.

  12. #12
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    Do you guys plan on offering a kit for the Yeti ASRc?
    Death from Below.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    Yes. Although the tools are a bit more than that. Depending upon what you have handy and your mechanical ability, you can improvise and skip the tools, but there is some risk of getting the needle bearing cup mashed. Not cheap, but guaranteed to be worth it.
    I'd rather do it right and get the tools. I hate to be a pest but can you give me the exact product number or a link to the tool (tools?) I need?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Do you guys plan on offering a kit for the Yeti ASRc?
    If it's 2014 or later, it also requires kit NBKRWC2185. That is the most common size of frame mount. That's for the end that mounts in the ASRc Link. I would not change the top tube end of the shock.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    I'd rather do it right and get the tools. I hate to be a pest but can you give me the exact product number or a link to the tool (tools?) I need?
    No problem. The tools are here: DU Bushing and Needle Bearing Shock Tool

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    No problem. The tools are here: DU Bushing and Needle Bearing Shock Tool
    Sorry I'm confused, do I need the green tool and the blue tool? What about the gold tool?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Sorry I'm confused, do I need the green tool and the blue tool? What about the gold tool?
    The green one is recommended for sure. It's for pressing in or pressing out the needle bearings and that's the most important part to get right. The blue tool works with the green one. It's for pushing out a DU bushing. Your shock may not have a metal DU bushing pressed in. It may have the plastic bushings and pin. The DU pilot can still be useful for pushing out the pin. The tools can be used with a vise or with a threaded rod and nuts & washers. The handles pictured on the site are part of the Hub Bearing Press.

    Hope that helps!

  18. #18
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    Quick Changeout Pictorial

    A few pics to give you an idea of the changeout process...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_1.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_2.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_2a.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_2b.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_2c.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_3.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_4.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_5.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_6.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_7.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_8.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_9.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_10.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_11.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-5010_nb_instl_12.jpg  


  19. #19
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    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME

    For a Tallboy v1.1, is it needed to change both ends, or is the link side enough?

    It does have the igus bushings (I.e. Not the old ones)

    10x
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by OrenPerets View Post
    For a Tallboy v1.1, is it needed to change both ends, or is the link side enough?
    Oren, I would do the link side only. There is little to no rotation in the other eyelet.

    Edit: In case you need to know, NBKRWC2185 fits almost every Santa Cruz, including your Tallboy.

  21. #21
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    This is what I liked about Chris. The first time I asked about a frame he told me not to bother with one end because of the lack of rotation. You can't more honest then that.

    I have the needle bearings on my Lenz and Riot.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    The green one is recommended for sure. It's for pressing in or pressing out the needle bearings and that's the most important part to get right. The blue tool works with the green one. It's for pushing out a DU bushing. Your shock may not have a metal DU bushing pressed in. It may have the plastic bushings and pin. The DU pilot can still be useful for pushing out the pin. The tools can be used with a vise or with a threaded rod and nuts & washers. The handles pictured on the site are part of the Hub Bearing Press.

    Hope that helps!
    No idea what a DU bushing is... anyone know if the Evil Following has this?

  23. #23
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    DU Bushing

    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    No idea what a DU bushing is... anyone know if the Evil Following has this?
    Here is a picture of a Bushing and a set of reducers. Most all full suspension bikes that have a shock have either a bushing or a bearing which allows rotational motion
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-bushings-reducers.jpg  


  24. #24
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    I see on the website that these are compatible with the Cane Creek DB inline. Are they also compatible with the DBAir CS?

  25. #25
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    No. The DBair eyelets are smaller than the Inline.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    No idea what a DU bushing is... anyone know if the Evil Following has this?
    The stock Monarch has DU Bushings.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottW View Post
    I see on the website that these are compatible with the Cane Creek DB inline. Are they also compatible with the DBAir CS?
    If you are able to send us your shock, we can convert to 15mm eyelets. Cost is $20 for one end or $30 for both. That would make your shock compatible with our needle bearing kits and or any Fox shock hardware.

  28. #28
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    Hi Chris,

    I got a Santa Cruz Nickel with a RS Monarch RT3 on it. What do I need? I can't remember if it has DU bushings or not and I'm pretty sure the shock doesn't rotate at the top pivot.

    Thanks,
    Shawn

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Hi Chris,

    I got a Santa Cruz Nickel with a RS Monarch RT3 on it. What do I need? I can't remember if it has DU bushings or not and I'm pretty sure the shock doesn't rotate at the top pivot.

    Thanks,
    Shawn
    Hi, Shawn. NBKRWC2185 for the swing link end.

  30. #30
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    I liked RWC needle bearing on my old bottlerocket, it made a big positive difference, but I was unable to find kit for my new bike. Its Monraker Foxy with 22.2x10mm hardware. Also a friend of mine has the same problem with Commencal Meta SX, same size hardware.

    Is there any solution?

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoboS View Post
    I liked RWC needle bearing on my old bottlerocket, it made a big positive difference, but I was unable to find kit for my new bike. Its Monraker Foxy with 22.2x10mm hardware. Also a friend of mine has the same problem with Commencal Meta SX, same size hardware.

    Is there any solution?
    Unfortunately, no. We've got the Mondraker Summum & Durham 10mm hardware covered with a special kit, but they changed things up with the Foxy. We may have something for the Commencal this coming year (already got a prototype that needs a few tweaks).

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin+M View Post
    The stock Monarch has DU Bushings.
    So I need two of this product number: NBKRWC2185

    And the blue and the green tool, and access to a vice grip, in order to do this "right"?

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    So I need two of this product number: NBKRWC2185

    And the blue and the green tool, and access to a vice grip, in order to do this "right"?
    Ideally, yes, a kit for each end, the green tool for NB installation, and the blue pilot to use with the green tool to push the old DU bushing out. I would use a threaded rod and nuts if you don't already have the Hub Press handle set or similar on hand. You could use a rubber mallet I suppose, but I prefer the slow and steady control of threads to pull things together.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    Hi, Shawn. NBKRWC2185 for the swing link end.
    Thanks Chris!

  35. #35
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    Chris, is there a kit for the Canyon Strive carbon? I had great results running your kit on my Devinci Atlas, but the upper shock eye of the Strive seems kind of tricky. It has both the shapeshifter gas spring attached to it as well as the swingarm.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeroenK View Post
    Chris, is there a kit for the Canyon Strive carbon? I had great results running your kit on my Devinci Atlas, but the upper shock eye of the Strive seems kind of tricky. It has both the shapeshifter gas spring attached to it as well as the swingarm.
    OK, that was pretty interesting to research. There may be small bearings pressed into the little "dogbone" links that actually contact the shock spacers. In other words, that top shock eyelet may already be riding on bearings. You would need to remove the shock bolt and slide the Shapeshifter yoke off. If you see bearings on either side of the shock, you are set. If not, we would just need to know the bolt diameter and the width of the shock hardware between the dogbone links. Looks like the very common 21.85.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    If you are able to send us your shock, we can convert to 15mm eyelets. Cost is $20 for one end or $30 for both. That would make your shock compatible with our needle bearing kits and or any Fox shock hardware.
    How are you doing this? drill and ream or ???? post a picture of your fixture setup.....I may want to get a shock modified

  38. #38
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    Hey Chris,

    What do you charge to install a kit on one end, if I pay for all shipping?

    Can they be cleaned and regreased without taking the kit apart?

    Thanks,
    Shawn

    PS - Have a wonderful New Year!

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    Ideally, yes, a kit for each end, the green tool for NB installation, and the blue pilot to use with the green tool to push the old DU bushing out. I would use a threaded rod and nuts if you don't already have the Hub Press handle set or similar on hand. You could use a rubber mallet I suppose, but I prefer the slow and steady control of threads to pull things together.
    7" x 1/4 ish threaded rod or fully threaded bolt if you can find one works perfectly. The RWC tools are well worth the cost in my mind. You can punch/hammer I'm sure, but in terms of ease and precision the RWC tools are really quite nice.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker4life View Post
    How are you doing this? drill and ream or ???? post a picture of your fixture setup.....I may want to get a shock modified
    We have a custom multi-bladed reamer. No drilling, just the one tool that we turn by hand. I should mention that we cleared the process and amount of material removal with CC. The factory shock eyelets are engineered with enough excess material that the modification does not affect the strength of the eyelet.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Hey Chris,

    What do you charge to install a kit on one end, if I pay for all shipping?

    Can they be cleaned and regreased without taking the kit apart?

    Thanks,
    Shawn

    PS - Have a wonderful New Year!
    Thank you, Shawn! When a customer is already paying to send in a shock and have the eyelets modified, we don't charge anything additional to install the needle bearings while we have it (just the cost of the needle bearing kit, of course).

    To regrease, the shock bolt is removed, the shock swung out, the inner ring (axle) carefully removed, and grease applied inside the bearing. It's quite simple. HOWEVER, they are MAX bearings (for greater strength). This means the bearing cup assembly is completely full of needle rollers and has no cage or retainer. Once the inner ring is removed, grease and surface tension are all that hold the needle rollers in the cup. If one is not careful, the needle rollers can fall out and get lost on the floor. If they do come out, it's no problem to stick them back in. The problem comes if one is not prepared for them to fall out...

    I live in Arizona and almost never ride in the wet. For anyone in a similar riding environment, you can pretty much install these and forget about them. While the sealing system is pretty effective, wetter environments will require periodic inspection in order to determine a suitable schedule for greasing.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    Thank you, Shawn! When a customer is already paying to send in a shock and have the eyelets modified, we don't charge anything additional to install the needle bearings while we have it (just the cost of the needle bearing kit, of course).

    To regrease, the shock bolt is removed, the shock swung out, the inner ring (axle) carefully removed, and grease applied inside the bearing. It's quite simple. HOWEVER, they are MAX bearings (for greater strength). This means the bearing cup assembly is completely full of needle rollers and has no cage or retainer. Once the inner ring is removed, grease and surface tension are all that hold the needle rollers in the cup. If one is not careful, the needle rollers can fall out and get lost on the floor. If they do come out, it's no problem to stick them back in. The problem comes if one is not prepared for them to fall out...

    I live in Arizona and almost never ride in the wet. For anyone in a similar riding environment, you can pretty much install these and forget about them. While the sealing system is pretty effective, wetter environments will require periodic inspection in order to determine a suitable schedule for greasing.
    Wow, now that is customer service! Thanks, I'm going to get this done. And, I'm in So. Cal. and never ride in the rain.

  43. #43
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    This is a little off topic but I have to put my $.02 in. I don't have the needle kit for my bike, specialized design, I do have Chris's XD15 bottom bracket on my Stumpjumper FSR. If you guys need to replace your BB I would highly recommend his XD15. This thing is indestructible. I've been running mine for 3 years now, replaced the seals once. Easy to maintain, I can remove, clean, and replace in about an hour. You will never have to buy another BB again. Thanks for a great product Chris.
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  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeBurnsie View Post
    This is a little off topic but I have to put my $.02 in. I don't have the needle kit for my bike, specialized design, I do have Chris's XD15 bottom bracket on my Stumpjumper FSR. If you guys need to replace your BB I would highly recommend his XD15. This thing is indestructible. I've been running mine for 3 years now, replaced the seals once. Easy to maintain, I can remove, clean, and replace in about an hour. You will never have to buy another BB again. Thanks for a great product Chris.
    Thanks for this, but I must give proper credit here--unlike the RWC Needle Bearing Kits, the XD-15 bottom brackets are an Enduro product. We were involved in the original conception to the degree that we approached Enduro with the high-nitrogen steel concept, but the production of the XD-15 is not something we at RWC can take credit for. I will say that we do our own hands-on QA on every bottom bracket and provide unrivaled support on the Enduro products as well as our own.

  45. #45
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    Wondering why OE's would have bshings instead of needle bearings if there is a performance advantage. Does it boil down to being a little bit more of a pita to deal with w/ regards to cleaning/greasing?

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Wondering why OE's would have bshings instead of needle bearings if there is a performance advantage. Does it boil down to being a little bit more of a pita to deal with w/ regards to cleaning/greasing?
    Price of the parts may be part of the reason. Labor cost is another. Every single shock end would have to have the right inner ring installed because of the tolerance range. That's why we include 3 inner rings of varying outside diameters. Those assembling the bikes are not likely going to pay attention to such details. Part of it may also be the "This is the way we've always done it" attitude. Although some brands (I think Canyon on some models) are shipping with needle bearings. I wouldn't think that maintenance is a part of their decision making process. In most cases not much maintenance is required.

  47. #47
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    How much does it cost to get a canecreek eyelet reamed out?

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtndude23 View Post
    How much does it cost to get a canecreek eyelet reamed out?
    Other than shipping, we charge $20 to do one end of the shock or $30 to do both.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtndude23 View Post
    How much does it cost to get a canecreek eyelet reamed out?
    You should also ask how it's being done...........set up and such

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    He posted this up the page a bit ago.

    "We have a custom multi-bladed reamer. No drilling, just the one tool that we turn by hand. I should mention that we cleared the process and amount of material removal with CC. The factory shock eyelets are engineered with enough excess material that the modification does not affect the strength of the eyelet."

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    Do you have a kit that works with the 2014Lapierre Zesty (or Spicy) AM with a Monarch shock (200x57mm)? I would think only one kit since the shaft mount is 90 deg offset mounted (i.e. no rotation in that axis).

    I also have these bushings Offsetbushings.com | Standard & Offset bicycle shock hardware – Offset Bushings | Shock Mounting Hardware to replace the standard ones to slacken the bike a bit. I would think these would still work, but would love any feedback.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcmonty View Post
    Do you have a kit that works with the 2014Lapierre Zesty (or Spicy) AM with a Monarch shock (200x57mm)? I would think only one kit since the shaft mount is 90 deg offset mounted (i.e. no rotation in that axis).

    I also have these bushings Offsetbushings.com | Standard & Offset bicycle shock hardware – Offset Bushings | Shock Mounting Hardware to replace the standard ones to slacken the bike a bit. I would think these would still work, but would love any feedback.
    The Zesty with Monarch would not be a problem. However, you would not be able to run needle bearings AND offset bushings. There is only so much room inside a shock eyelet and I'm afraid it's an "either or" proposition in this case.

  53. #53
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    Hi do your needle bearings work with avalanche shocks (eg the chubie). From the avalanche webpage the standard rear shock bushing is a garlock 07du08 so it is a little bit smaller than the usual fox/rockshox bushing. Thanks

  54. #54
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    Expounding on that, do you think a RWC kit is worthwhile for the Canfield Riot? If so, one or both ends?

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    Quote Originally Posted by aussieprime View Post
    Hi do your needle bearings work with avalanche shocks (eg the chubie). From the avalanche webpage the standard rear shock bushing is a garlock 07du08 so it is a little bit smaller than the usual fox/rockshox bushing. Thanks
    It appears you are right. That bushing appears to have an OD of 17/32" inches, making the eyelet bore about 13.5mm. We need a 15mm bore.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    It appears you are right. That bushing appears to have an OD of 17/32" inches, making the eyelet bore about 13.5mm. We need a 15mm bore.
    Cheers thanks for confirming

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    Expanded Instructions now Available

    We added a more detailed pictorial to the website. We'll be working on more. Let me know if any of the steps listed are unclear: RWC SHOCK NEEDLE BEARING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin+M View Post
    Expounding on that, do you think a RWC kit is worthwhile for the Canfield Riot? If so, one or both ends?

    Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
    I'm not sure, but I can tell you how to find out. Please see the pic below. You would need to use tape or other easily removable method for making two lines on your frame (one on the seat stay and one on the shock, as pictured). Let the air out of the shock and move the rear triangle through its complete travel. If the two lines stay in line with each other all the way through the travel, there is no rotation inside the shock eyelet and you would gain nothing by changing it to a needle bearing. However, if those two lines "bend" apart from each other during any part of the travel, then you would benefit from a needle bearing kit. Same principle applies to the other end of the shock.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  59. #59
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    Thanks Chris!

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  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin+M View Post
    Thanks Chris!

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    No problem. Please report back on whether or not much is happening in either eyelet.

  61. #61
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    Will do.

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  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin+M View Post
    Thanks Chris!

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    Don't post you're results, I'm very happy believing I needed both ends.
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  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Don't post you're results, I'm very happy believing I needed both ends.
    Haha.

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  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Don't post you're results, I'm very happy believing I needed both ends.
    +1!

    I'm lazy and just ordered the same thing for my Riot that TwoTone did for his.

  65. #65
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    Hi Chris,
    Do you have a kit for the Evil Insurgent (Monarch Plus RC3 Debonair)?
    Thanks,
    G

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by flipnidaho View Post
    Hi Chris,
    Do you have a kit for the Evil Insurgent (Monarch Plus RC3 Debonair)?
    Thanks,
    G
    Hi, G. Yes. NBKRWC2185 is the kit you need. If you wanted to also do the lower shock mount, another kit of the same size would be needed.

  67. #67
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    I recently went to go and fit my spare RWC Needle kit to my Manitou McLeod, but it litterally fell through the eyelet!
    The eyelet fits standard DU bush, and also the 5piece low frictions bushings fine.

    Slightly worrying.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar4me View Post
    I recently went to go and fit my spare RWC Needle kit to my Manitou McLeod, but it litterally fell through the eyelet!
    The eyelet fits standard DU bush, and also the 5piece low frictions bushings fine.
    Slightly worrying.
    I think something may be missing from the equation here. Please measure the inside diameter of the shock eyelet (empty). ...and post a pic of the bearing in question.

  69. #69
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    Its definitely a 15mm eyelet, as it running the same hardware I've used on my other shocks. The needle bearing just doesn't even need a press to go in the eyelet n slides out if I tip it up. Would removing and mounting on another shock cause it? It has been in another shock before n deff remember having to press it in n out of that one.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar4me View Post
    Its definitely a 15mm eyelet, as it running the same hardware I've used on my other shocks. The needle bearing just doesn't even need a press to go in the eyelet n slides out if I tip it up. Would removing and mounting on another shock cause it? It has been in another shock before n deff remember having to press it in n out of that one.
    If it required pressing in and out of another shock then the original fit was obviously OK. It's sounds as if the cup did not spring back after the original compression. That makes much more sense than an unused bearing not fitting. The cup and roller assemblies are available separately on this page: +/- Tolerance Inner Rings for Shock Needle Bearing Kits. A spare assembly is only $6.95 and the inner rings are also available there. You certainly don't have to spring for an entire kit this time around.

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    I must admit that the solution for this application didnt look worthwhile over the long run.

    However, it's out long enough and there are enough users to say if it has reliability issues. The virtual absence of unsatisfied users indicates strongly very good things.
    Last edited by bing!; 01-11-2016 at 06:24 PM.

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by bing! View Post
    I must admit that the solution for this application didnt look worthwhile over the long run.

    However, it's out long enough and there are enough users to say if has reliability issues. The virtual absence of unsatisfied users tells indicates very good things.
    We definitely had some initial bugs to work out but feel the kits are pretty dialed now. They come pretty highly recommended:

    "Last year I purchased a needle bearing shock kit for my race bike and I have been blown away by the performance advantage that it gave me. I was actually running that bearing kit for the majority of the North American Enduro Tour races last season on my way to my second consecutive overall title."

    --Kyle Warner

  73. #73
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    I just took my first ride with a new RWC needle bearing in the bottom end of my shock in a Santa Cruz 5010.
    I had installed it a couple days before and for about an hour was wondering why my suspension felt noticeably more active and sensitive until I remembered why.

    All I can say is, why in the world don't these things come stock in my bike?
    Very noticeable difference. I had a greater feeling of traction downhill and pedaling felt more responsive over rough terrain.

    And this was on a shock that had just been serviced and replaced brand new bushings.

  74. #74
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    Good job!

    I've been using this for about 3 months now.

    Works great, small bump compliance is noticeably improved, no reliability issues.
    Trek Fuel EX 9.8

  75. #75
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    Chris which kit do i need for a niner RIP 9 rdo?

  76. #76
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    Since we are on the topic, is a rwc kit a worthwhile investment on a bike like a 2014 Heckler?

    Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Avid is spelled wrong, there should be an 'O' in there.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by acer66 View Post
    Since we are on the topic, is a rwc kit a worthwhile investment on a bike like a 2014 Heckler?

    Thanks
    All you have to do is follow his directions he posted and see how much rotation is at the shock mounting points.
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  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    All you have to do is follow his directions he posted and see how much rotation is at the shock mounting points.
    I though I could get away with just asking.

    I might have asked you that before but is your name music inspired?
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Avid is spelled wrong, there should be an 'O' in there.

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by sand0kan View Post
    Chris which kit do i need for a niner RIP 9 rdo?
    I would change the top only and it uses NBKRWC2185.

  80. #80
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    Just installed a lower bushing on my Trek Slash. Before, if I remover the top bolt, my shock wouldn't rotate at all. Now it's as smooth as can be. Well worth the $$$$.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigb73 View Post
    Just installed a lower bushing on my Trek Slash. Before, if I remover the top bolt, my shock wouldn't rotate at all. Now it's as smooth as can be. Well worth the $$$$.
    Thanks very much for that feedback. The "Full Floater" is one of the designs that does have significant rotation in both shock eyelets so changing that lower mount makes a lot of sense.

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by acer66 View Post
    I though I could get away with just asking.

    I might have asked you that before but is your name music inspired?
    No, back when I was in the Navy, I was also into Punk, Alternative etc... and the front of my hair was bleached, so I got the nickname TwoTone.
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  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    No, back when I was in the Navy, I was also into Punk, Alternative etc... and the front of my hair was bleached, so I got the nickname TwoTone.

    I see, I was just asking since I really like the two tone era bands.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Avid is spelled wrong, there should be an 'O' in there.

  84. #84
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    I don't know yet how awesome this works yet, but it should make a difference. Installed today on 2013 Fuel EX8. Removed the OE bushings with hand tools, pliers, screwdriver, light hammer. I was careful, but wasn't overly, as I was replacing the items I removed.
    For install, I am cheap, and handy; using a bolt, 2 washers, and a nut as a makeshift press. Greased the bore, pressed the needle cage in, assembled. The only issue I had was reassembly to the frame. The old bushing bearing assembly measured 39.81 and the new one 40.02. Tolerance issue, and couldn't get a reinstall. I loosened the lower pivot 1/2 turn to open it up, popped it in there, and torqued it all to spec.
    I had noticed before how that lower busing was just tight, and made no sense. This bearing freed up the rotation a bit, not sure how much this will help, but sure can't hurt either!


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  85. #85
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    Happen to know which kit can be used on a 2016 giant trance 27.5? Is it just the upper bearing only like on the 26" 2012 version?


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  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoraa View Post
    Happen to know which kit can be used on a 2016 giant trance 27.5? Is it just the upper bearing only like on the 26" 2012 version?
    I recommend removing the top shock bolt and washer. If you find a bearing underneath it, you have the latest rocker design and don't need a needle bearing in the shock eyelet (the bearing in the rocker arm serves the same purpose).

    If there is not a bearing installed in the rocker arm next to the shock, then you need needle bearing kit number NBKRWC2185.

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by bing! View Post
    I must admit that the solution for this application didnt look worthwhile over the long run.

    However, it's out long enough and there are enough users to say if it has reliability issues. The virtual absence of unsatisfied users indicates strongly very good things.
    I've been running needle bearings on both ends of my bike for over two years now, 250-300 hours of total moving time, mostly in the northeast US. I inspect and regrease them every winter, and every time they're still pretty well lubed and clean. Zero increased play or visible wear. In my experience, these are clearly more durable than Fox's polymer bushings (not that that should be surprising).

  88. #88
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    Hi guys i have a new dt swiss x313 odl carbon shock, do you know if i can upgrade to the enduro bushing kit? It seens that the dt swiss needs their special bushing kit with the balls joints for prevent the anodized wear coming from lateral torsions<br />
    <br />
    I have been using the enduro kit in my old monarch rt3 (22.2mm*8mm) and really noticed a better feeling of the suspension when i installed it from the rigid kit<br />
    <br />
    Any opinions? Thank you in advance

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wantax View Post
    Hi guys i have a new dt swiss x313 odl carbon shock, do you know if i can upgrade to the enduro bushing kit? It seens that the dt swiss needs their special bushing kit with the balls joints for prevent the anodized wear coming from lateral torsions<br />
    <br />
    I have been using the enduro kit in my old monarch rt3 (22.2mm*8mm) and really noticed a better feeling of the suspension when i installed it from the rigid kit<br />
    <br />
    Any opinions? Thank you in advance
    No, our kit won't work with the DT Swiss shocks, unfortunately.

  90. #90
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    Got this kit for a 2013 Rocky Mountain Instinct?


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  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajdemo76 View Post
    Got this kit for a 2013 Rocky Mountain Instinct?


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    This bike uses special hardware. Part number 33 is a 22.20mm long shock pin. The span is standard, but the OD is 12.7mm. Normally that’s not an issue, but in this case, the pin fits inside the (part number 38) mounting reducers. The inner rings we use with our needle bearings have an 11mm OD that would not fit into the mounting reducers properly:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-rm_instinct_2013.jpg  


  92. #92
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    Kit for 2016 Trek EX 9.9 with Fox Reaktiv shock?

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Kit for 2016 Trek EX 9.9 with Fox Reaktiv shock?
    If you look at the pics below you will see the upper and lower mounts. In the first pic, you will see the upper eyelet of the shock is custom. It's very wide. It's pretty much like the DRCV without the upper chamber. You can see the aluminum spacers on each side of the shock, similar to what is used with the DRCV. This leads me to think that there are bearings on either side. Remove the upper shock bolt and take a look. If there are cartridge bearings at the rocker arm ends, then you you need no needle bearing at top.

    Also notice in the pics below the lower mount appears to be offset/asymmetrical. All of our kits are symmetrical so we can't help with the full-floater end either...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-reactiv_lower_asymetrical_mount.jpg  

    Real World Cycling shock needle bearing kit IS AWESOME-reactiv_upper.jpg  


  94. #94
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    Gonna order one of these kits for the Wreckoning which I'm assuming is identical to the Insurgent/Following. Can anyone confirm?


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  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajdemo76 View Post
    Gonna order one of these kits for the Wreckoning which I'm assuming is identical to the Insurgent/Following. Can anyone confirm?
    Wreckoning is NBKRWC2185 as confirmed by a customer who has one.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    Wreckoning is NBKRWC2185 as confirmed by a customer who has one.
    Thanks! Actually gonna go with two kits.


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  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    Thanks very much for that feedback. The "Full Floater" is one of the designs that does have significant rotation in both shock eyelets so changing that lower mount makes a lot of sense.
    is this available for a 2015 fuel ex? I didn't find it listed. Thanks

  98. #98
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    If only you did one for the new Mondraker Dune lower linkage. Its like the shock bushing was a after thought.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Some1callthekomsquad View Post
    is this available for a 2015 fuel ex? I didn't find it listed. Thanks
    Yes, the lower (full floater) mount uses kit NBKRWC3988.

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Draper View Post
    If only you did one for the new Mondraker Dune lower linkage. Its like the shock bushing was a after thought.
    Yeah, the 10mm hardware is problem...

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