I am looking at a bike (2004 Gemini 900), and it has a Sherman Breakout TPC, that has "Rapid Travel II" on it. I'm not quite sure how the "Rapid Travel II" works. Does it change the axel to crown height when adjusting to lower travel (like Rock Shox), or it is it just locking out the top 40mm of travel with the fork remaining the same height? Is the Rapid Travel an on-off thing (ie. you are either at 130mm or 170mm) or is it variable, allowing you to set it at any travel setting between the two? Is it true that the spring is stiffer in the lower travel setting (making it more pedal friendly)?
The bike caught my eye on the weekend at a shop (was there to buy tires), and I took only a quick look, but did not play with the RT II. After a bit of internet research, I think I'll be heading back next weekend to give 'r a test ride. (seems like a great bike for the $)
Rapid Travel II means it's on top of fork leg rather than bottom like Rapid Travel.
It's one of either settings, whereas RTWD (rapid travel wind down) lets you adjust anywhere between.
Yep, with RTII, you flip the lever one way, compress the fork and then it holds the fork down at the lower travel measurement, ie down to 80 from 100 or down to 100 from 120. To go back to long travel, you flip the lever the other way, compress the fork and it rises back up to full length.
Since it's on top of the fork leg, you can do it on the fly.
RTII increases the initial spring rate, since the coil stays in a compressed state, ie the fork stiffens up when you move it to "short travel".
The ability to make the Breakout shorter and stiffer for climbing is what I was hoping for. I will take another look at the Gemini and try to get some time out on the trails with it.
Can someone clarify this? Rapid Travel thrashing on a Sherman ok?
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I needed to ask a question about the forks ability to take a thrashing when the travel is cranked down. I have the 170/110mm version on a FR hardtail. At 170 it is soft and smooth. At 110 its stiff but still has the ability to take the brunt out of drops...
I just want to be on the safe side before hitting any jumps with it in the 110mm mode. The fork is stiffer, as the coil is compressed.
Can I do any damage riding with the travel wounddown. I remember reading somewhere that it was not advised by Manitou, but then they came out with one the next year that was ok.
I believe mine is an 04' model. It is all black with the metal manitou/sherman decal.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I needed to ask a question about the forks ability to take a thrashing when the travel is cranked down. I have the 170/110mm version on a FR hardtail. At 170 it is soft and smooth. At 110 its stiff but still has the ability to take the brunt out of drops...
I just want to be on the safe side before hitting any jumps with it in the 110mm mode. The fork is stiffer, as the coil is compressed.
Can I do any damage riding with the travel wounddown. I remember reading somewhere that it was not advised by Manitou, but then they came out with one the next year that was ok.
I believe mine is an 04' model. It is all black with the metal manitou/sherman decal.
No, I wouldn't recommend it. If you take the assembley out and look at it, it's pretty flimsy. It's a skinny little wire, a plastic piece, and some sort of little mechanism with two prongs on it that come out and engage when you turn the knob. It's just not strong enough to take repeated abuse, trying to hold down a super compressed spring isn't easy. As the spring returns from a full compression the two little prongs aren't going to want to hold that well, because right about the point where the spring is locked down is the same point where the rebound damper kicks in, so they're not getting any assistance in slowing down the spring from the rebound.
The one on my Black is wearing out and doesn't like to stay engaged some times. I haven't had any problems with the one on my Sherman, but there's no point in testing its tolerances. I wouldn't risk it on yours. It's one of the more expensive internal pieces to replace and although Manitou might warranty it despite the negligence, they aren't required to.
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