Results 1 to 21 of 21
  1. #1
    Bike Crusader~
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    240

    Quick look inside the 2010 Marz 55 TST2 Air~

    Did a quick open up of the fork and took some photos, thought I'd just share some insights here~
    I wanted to see if the internals were the same as the 2008 Marz 55 TST2, you can find the original disassembly thread here :

    Marzocchi 55 TST2 conversion to shim damping: step by step

    Used to own a 55 2008 TST2 (coil with air assist), but I hated that fork coz it had so much stiction even after riding it for a couple of rides~
    Heard of promising stuff about 2010 Marz, so decided to give it a go since JensonUSA was selling the 2010 55 TST2 off cheap~


    The lower of the spring side is different, there's an allen key bolt as opposed to a nut for the 2008 version~


    The damper cart lying beside the lower legs~ Yeah I cut away some of the graphics to my liking hehe~

    Forgot to take pictures of the compression damper circuit, but the 2010 version is the same as in the 2008/2009 version as seen in the disassembly link above.


    It would be highly advisable to change the stock oil inside the damper, the foaming is terrible... I did some pumping of the damper before removing the oil. This picture shows the damper oil after having rested for 2 minutes already!!! Imagine all those bubbles running through the ports... Bleah...


    Removed the rebound damper circuit assembly, just a port orifice damper~ :/


    The black circlip looking thingee is actually the oil ring~ Looks awfully flimsy~ :P


    The needle inside the orifices~


    No shimmed rebound damper here~ Sorry for the low quality pic, mein camera had trouble focusing in macro mode...


    Didn't heat up the area before removal~ Came out fine~ The red locktite here seems to be more of the blue locktite strength~


    Removal of the rebound damper piston~ Nice quality, aluminium bits throughout~


    Slotting an allen key thru the orifice to attempt opening up the rebound piston~


    Holding down on the allen key while using a 10mm socket to access the black nut inside.


    There is only a shim on the underside of the piston, and it's only acting as a check valve~


    Another angle of the piston.


    Be careful of the oil ring when reassembling back the rebound damper into the cartridge~ You gotta hold it down while inserting the piston back into the cart~ Looks very flimsy~


    A look at the air spring assembly after removing the circlip from the lower part of the upper stanchion.



    The spring is the top out bumper, and I think the rubber bung is the bottom out bumper.


    The top out spring rests on an O-Ring. There seems to be no air piston. The black section seems to be only for the top out spring to rest on... (Will need to check again soon when I have the time)
    The air spring is due to the oil level in the left leg. (A big volume of 160ml of oil)

    So there u have it~
    I guess I did this coz the rebound damper piston looked like a person with more resources could machine a piston to accommodate shims for a shimmed rebound damper~

    Approx. Oil Volumes for the Fork:

    Left leg (air spring side) : 160ml (more than the total of oil volumes in the right leg!)
    Right leg lubrication: 40ml
    Volume of oil in damper: 90ml

    I used Stendec 7.5wt oil to replace the oil inside the damper cart to have about the same damping feel as the original stock oil. Stendec 5wt was too light.

    Tolerances between the upper stanchions and lower legs is great, the oil seals and wipers have little stiction, much much less than the 2008 model I had!
    Great Job on this Marzocchi!!!

    Cheers~
    Mas
    Last edited by masnumata; 08-23-2010 at 08:09 AM.
    "Ride it, Feel it...."

  2. #2
    Bike Crusader~
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    240
    Oh yes the compression circuit side had 4 shims for the lockout circuit~
    I removed 3 shims and left one behind so there would be blowoff when if the fork hits a bump while being locked out~ I feel this will help protect against the cartridge leaking oil from the bottom of the damper cart into the lower legs~

    Will look into a compression shim stack once I find out where to get some~
    Still pondering about the rebound damper piston~

    Cheers~
    Mas
    "Ride it, Feel it...."

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    7,696
    Life's too short to run port orifice damping.

    Is there any chance you could take a better picture of the top of the air spring side? If they are using the air in the leg as the spring, it seems like it would put a lot more stress on the seals, and possible cause more stiction because of it.

  4. #4
    Bike Crusader~
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    240
    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    Life's too short to run port orifice damping.

    Is there any chance you could take a better picture of the top of the air spring side? If they are using the air in the leg as the spring, it seems like it would put a lot more stress on the seals, and possible cause more stiction because of it.
    LoL yeah~

    Perhaps I might have been wrong about the black section that looks like a piston~
    Will have a look again when I'm free~ Thanks for making insight into the air spring side~ It's got me thinking again~

    Cheers!
    Mas
    "Ride it, Feel it...."

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JohnJameson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    141
    thanks a lot man, very useful info. I also just picked one up from Jenson. Do you happen to know if this fork can be lowered? And if so, what are the procedures. This is my first air fork in some time. Thanks.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    26
    I have this fork and feel like the spring is to soft, I get alot of brake dive, which really sucks. when I increase the psi this fork looses all small bump sensitivity. does the right leg have a bigger spring and can this be changed to a stiffer spring. I cant seem to find it on Marz website. the spring in the picture is from the air side and you say it is the top out bumper, is there another spring in the other leg .............

    so does anyone know if I can change out the spring to a stiffer one, and where I can get it ...........

    or is my only option to stiffen up the fork going to be an oil change to a heavier oil

    I run the air preload at 45-50 psi and I weigh 200lbs with gear

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    304
    Very Informative Mas, thanks dude!
    I don't wear a helmet, I wear a turban protector!

  8. #8
    usually cranky
    Reputation: b-kul's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    10,020
    Quote Originally Posted by reerun
    I have this fork and feel like the spring is to soft, I get alot of brake dive, which really sucks. when I increase the psi this fork looses all small bump sensitivity. does the right leg have a bigger spring and can this be changed to a stiffer spring. I cant seem to find it on Marz website. the spring in the picture is from the air side and you say it is the top out bumper, is there another spring in the other leg .............

    so does anyone know if I can change out the spring to a stiffer one, and where I can get it ...........

    or is my only option to stiffen up the fork going to be an oil change to a heavier oil

    I run the air preload at 45-50 psi and I weigh 200lbs with gear
    the shim stack mod should solve all your problems.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    the shim stack mod should solve all your problems.
    good to know.......... does this void the warranty? .......... and do you know if there is a spring I can swap to a stiffer spring or is this fork air sprung only?

  10. #10
    usually cranky
    Reputation: b-kul's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    10,020
    Quote Originally Posted by reerun
    good to know.......... does this void the warranty? .......... and do you know if there is a spring I can swap to a stiffer spring or is this fork air sprung only?
    not sure, im thinking no cuz its been so widely done but dont hold me to that. and as i understand it the shim stack mod lets you use the tst lockout knob as a compresion adjustment so no need for a heavier spring.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    7,696
    Reerun, if you have the correct amount of sag and aren't bottoming out the fork, then b-kul is completely correct and doing the shim mod will allow you to tune out the brake dive you're having issues with.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    26
    so I called Marz and there is no spring other than the top out bumper ....... the tech also said he has never heard of the shim mod .............. I was like really never heard of it huh ...... well i guess I will attempt the mod

    thanks everyone for your help

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    26
    oh yeah he also said switching the oil to a heavier oil wont help with brake dive since there isn't much oil anyway 180 cc in the left and 50 cc in the right

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    16
    Sorry to bring this up again, but do you think it would be possible to reduce the travel of this fork? Am considering doing the shim mod and would like to change the travel at the same time if possible.

    Thanks!

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    9
    Thanks for the pics :-)

    According to Max.. from the 2008 tst 2 thread, the shim stack mod is cannot be done on the 2010 tst 2.

    Has anyone tried the mod?

    Thanks!

  16. #16
    Chris Bling
    Reputation: dustyduke22's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,075

    Bump

    Same question






    Quote Originally Posted by Hermdeworm
    Thanks for the pics :-)

    According to Max.. from the 2008 tst 2 thread, the shim stack mod is cannot be done on the 2010 tst 2.

    Has anyone tried the mod?

    Thanks!
    The obsession of wheels fused with the passion of cycling
    Affordable Custom Wheels

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    9
    Have since answered the question myself :-)

    I have opened up the compression side of the cartridge following hte directions in the 2008 version post, and the internals look identical.

    So good luck with the modding.

    I have yet to heat up the shaft to release the screw holding the washers :-0

  18. #18
    Chris Bling
    Reputation: dustyduke22's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,075

    Just add beer

    Quote Originally Posted by Hermdeworm
    Have since answered the question myself :-)

    I have opened up the compression side of the cartridge following hte directions in the 2008 version post, and the internals look identical.

    So good luck with the modding.

    I have yet to heat up the shaft to release the screw holding the washers :-0

    Well hop to it! Is that something that you plan to do, or are you just going to let it roll the way that it is?
    The obsession of wheels fused with the passion of cycling
    Affordable Custom Wheels

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    9

    Good job!

    Well, I was pretty concerned about opening the bottom bolt.
    But, I just heated the shaft (just above the washers) with a candle, for about a minute. Tried loosening it and it poped loose.
    So now I have to order those shims, after I reread the thread and figure out which ones would be good for my weight/riding style.
    I try to do everything with my 2004 Spesh Enduro: from cross-country single track to 7footers (to slope). The reason I got this fork is that my old 2005 Marz' All mountain 1, started to get flexy after a visit to a local bike park (gaps tables and drops). I actually forgot the eta in locked position on the one 7 ft. drop, a bit of a harsh landing :-o
    Since then I've modified the front to a solid, steel, 10mm thru axle (DT swiss 240 hub), and the fork is feeling stiff again, so I'm in no hurry to install the 55.

    If your scared, don't do it.
    If your going to do it, comit!
    If your going to do it but your still scared, pray.
    works for me,
    hermdeworm

  20. #20
    Chris Bling
    Reputation: dustyduke22's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,075

    Nice work Holmes

    Quote Originally Posted by Hermdeworm
    Well, I was pretty concerned about opening the bottom bolt.
    But, I just heated the shaft (just above the washers) with a candle, for about a minute. Tried loosening it and it poped loose.
    So now I have to order those shims, after I reread the thread and figure out which ones would be good for my weight/riding style.
    I try to do everything with my 2004 Spesh Enduro: from cross-country single track to 7footers (to slope). The reason I got this fork is that my old 2005 Marz' All mountain 1, started to get flexy after a visit to a local bike park (gaps tables and drops). I actually forgot the eta in locked position on the one 7 ft. drop, a bit of a harsh landing :-o
    Since then I've modified the front to a solid, steel, 10mm thru axle (DT swiss 240 hub), and the fork is feeling stiff again, so I'm in no hurry to install the 55.

    If your scared, don't do it.
    If your going to do it, comit!
    If your going to do it but your still scared, pray.
    works for me,
    hermdeworm
    Good man!!! I just got my built with the '10 55 on the front and it feels pretty dang good. That does give me some hope about the shim stack actually working on this model. It will for sure be something that gets done in the next little bit.

    Peace!
    The obsession of wheels fused with the passion of cycling
    Affordable Custom Wheels

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    26
    anyone want to post a how to do an oil change and seal change instructional, or have a link to a video. mine is due for some service

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •