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  1. #1
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    Progressive 5th Element Air Can Removal

    I need help removing the Air can.
    I twisted the can and can slide it down the shaft.
    Now I need to remove the negative-air port so I can get the can off.
    Does anyone know how to remove the negative port?
    I called Garage Works at 949-861-2240 and Gatlain said there is a 3mm under the valve. I removed the valve, but no 3mm exists. I tried Avalanche Downhill Racing too. No ideas there.
    There must be a way.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Progressive 5th Element Air Can Removal-5thelement.jpg  


  2. #2
    staike
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    I'm wondering the same thing. I have a broken one lying around, would be interested in knowing how to take it apart.

  3. #3
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    I just called Garage Works again. They insist there is a 3mm in that hole.
    I can most certainly say there is NOT. It just looked for the 10th time.
    There must be a communication problem.

    He said, I could just clamp down on the air port and unscrew it.
    It will damage the threads and not work anymore.
    Garage Works has spare parts, but they do NOT sell that part.
    Oh. Both air ports are the same black aluminum.

  4. #4
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    Stick a 3mm in the hole for the H of it. Maybe call Progressive ? I know they are in MC business still.

  5. #5
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    Yeah. I stuck a 3mm in there. It didn't grip anything.
    I called Progressive. They said to call Garage Works at 949-861-2240.

  6. #6
    moaaar shimz
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    Check for a 3mm hex slot inside the valve.























    Kidding, kidding.

  7. #7
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    Nice one!!
    I gave up. The shaft seal leaks and the main air port valve leaks. I give up. I either have to pay Garage Works or find a new shock. RP23 anyone?

  8. #8
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    I'd try using a pair of needle nose vise grips (with sharp jaw teeth) on the ifp valve below the threads. Apply a little heat with an electric heat gun and it would probably break loose pretty easily. Even if you mess up the threads a little, you can clean them up afterward.

  9. #9
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    I tried the needle-nose method. It didn't break it free. The shock won't hold air now that I've removed the schrader valves so many times. It's screwed. My only choice is to send it in or get an RP2/23.

  10. #10
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    Maybe the Jam nut method. Put 2 nuts on it or just a nut and a metal air cap on top of it and spin the lower nut up till it jams against the upper nut.

  11. #11
    "El Whatever"
    Reputation: Warp's Avatar
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    There was a 3mm allen hex inside the valve. At least there was one inside one I had and I serviced multiple times.

    A ball end allen won't work, though. Most probably you also need a long 3mm one.
    Check my Site

  12. #12
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    I could try the jam-nut method, if I could find 2 nuts of that thread and pitch. It's not worth it now, however. The seals are bad, so removing the can has no benefit. New seals can NOT be purchased anymore.

  13. #13
    staike
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    Hey man! I started wrenching on mine now, this is what I had time for today!

    This is where you are now?


    Pullet it apart like this:


    Profit.


    Seals and stuff


    Nothing interesting here.

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